Felix

None if you stay hydraulic, and don't worry about a solid lifter conversion (which really gives minimal gains unless you plan on spending a lot of time over 8 grand).

Just pull the old headlining out and take it to your local motor trimmer. They'll use it as a template to make a new one.

Think the formula for allowed NA cc's in QLD is: Weight (in kg) x 3 = Allowed cc's. Find a local engineer.

Not really. Unfortunately the majority of business owners seem to think if they are stingey they keep more cash in their back pocket. It is just the smart ones that realise the value in their staff. Treat the staff well and they will treat the business well. ie, greater productivity, less sickies, promoting a more positive image to customers.

If you are only going to rev it to 7 grand, there is no point replacing the valve springs or spending a heap on porting, or on bigger valves. Pistons and rods don't make HP, they support it.

Bullshit. Pretty much all 4k's came from the factory with a single row timing chain. Think about it the motors are like 30 years old, most would have had a timing chain replaced in there lifetime, single and double row kits are freely available in the aftermarket... For the amount of effort required to replace a timing chain, most people opt to put a double row in to save the headf@$k of having to do it again in a few years. 3k's had a double row timing chain std.

2JZ... To make it fit, you've got to get another 3k bottom end cut it in half and superglue one of the halves to the end of your existing 3k bottom end.

It refuses to recognize the ODBC drivers needed to connect a local database (accounting software) to a remote E-Commerce website I am setting up. Works fine with XP and Vista, but Win7 will not play the game.

Windows7

JDM is a japanese spec standard production car. What kids refer to JDM is fender mirrors, super wide rims with skinny tyres stretched onto them, a car lowered to the weeds so it is useless on the road and defect material, etc. Really Bozo is the correct term. Google "Bozo style". It is a bit like "granny spec", which really is an overdone version of what a granny would drive. ie, whitewalls, slammed, venetions, sunvisor, etc. It is a LOOK, or a Style.

Yea, well that explains half the problem. The aisan carbs are crap, two are twice the hassle. Get a DCD weber for the ultimate street carb (set and forget), or go twin sidedrafts for a weekend motorsport/saturday night cruiser (if you've got a spare grand).

Why? When the big turbo kicks in it diverts exhaust away from the small turbos exhaust housing.... The small turbo would then effectively freewheel as it is no longer compressing air. It is obviously going to keep spinning, but doesn't have to spin anywhere near as fast if it is not boosting. It isn't a true compound turbo setup.

Do yourself a favour, join the Yahoo Carburetedblowers group. Is not overly active these days, but if you search the archives you will find everything you need to know about blowthru carbs and how to mod a normal carb to suit your needs.

The sparkplug gap should be 0.8 mm. The pointgap should be around 0.45mm.

I agree with philbey, this thread is wrong. I can see a bit of misinformation so far which could lead a newcomer astray and cost them money.

A 4age will have the potential to make a lot more power, simply due to the fact that a 16v head breathes a lot better than an 8v pushrod motor. If you want to go quick with a turboed K series, buy a ke10. Power to weight! A ke3/5x is like 20-25% heavier than a ke1x, so needs to make that extra 20-25% more power and torque for similar performance.

I didn't realize your pump was stuffed. Fair enough. :wink: Do you have the spacer between the pump and block?

You can do that, but would make less power (and have a flatter running engine) than if you ran a bit lower compression with more aggressive timing. Read Graham Bells "Modern Engine Tuning" book, he goes into optimising compression ratios to suit available fuel, quite interesting. I build for 95 octane. I live in the country and need to drive 20 minutes to the closest place to get 98, whereas I can get 95 5 minutes up the road. A good thing about building in conservative compression is if you get caught out at a servo and can only get 92, you don't have to worry so much about it pinging or running hot like you would if you ran high compression. Is your motor a 4k or 5k? Knowing that would help with recommending a cam. Personally I think a Tighe 113 or 104 is ideal for a 4k with a very wide powerband and a decent topend. I'd go a little bigger with a 5k, like that 424.

Really there is nothing wrong with the stock mechanical fuel pump for that combo.

LOL, who cares you can't see them when you are driving anyway. Improving the driving experience is what it is about. Add a set of chrome trim rings to keep that neat stock sleeper look. Improved production. It is great fun destroying a "look at me" car through some twisties in a car that looks stock. Cops won't give it a second glance so you can get away with a lot more under the bonnet.

You could always get a set of ra40/60/tarago 14x5.5" steelies and mount a set of say 185/60 RE001 adrenalins on it. Give you all the traction you need. Traction is in the compound not the width.

Ebay US

Now that would be a bit more like it, they put out around 6000w. Would need like 45+ amps to drive it. Be cheaper to buy a proper supercharger (sc12, sc14) though.