Felix

Ahh, but you had a toyota 2 speed auto, which is different to the local 3speed autos.

Nup. The accelerator pump only squirts into the primary throat on a DGV. If you had a 38/38 DGAS where both throttle plates open together, then the accelerator pump squirts into both throats. I'd check your secondary idle jet for blockages. Maybe try a larger one.

He's putting it in a 5k so it will idle a little smoother, come on cam sooner and have more lowend torque than what it would in a 4k.

Not a proper fix, but chemiweld might keep you going until you have the cash to fix it properly.

It is up to you. Personally I think you would be better off putting your cash towards a halfcut (4age 16v, 20v, 4agze).

It is just a rebuild kit with high comp pistons. I don't see how you could make an extra 40 hp (like they advertise) unless your current motor is absolutely f@$ked.

Might just be easier to tap the water gallery and use an appropriately sized grub screw to block it off. Then you can just use a normal extractor gasket.

Yep, you are right. :)

Why? The stock carb has the fuel bowl vented directly into the carby throat... Actually they have two vents from the fuel bowl into the carby throats. The only reason I could think where the stock carb would need to be boxed is to avoid blowing out the rubber bit around the accelerator pump.

No. 3k's cam with Nippondenso, 4k's Bosch. They are interchangeable. Advance curves may be different.

I guess the thing to ask is.... Does your head have the holes in it for the water galleries to the inlet manifold? If no then you should be fine with a normal extractor gasket. If yes, well you will then either need to find someone to make a custom gasket, or buy a blank sheet of gasket material and make your own.

No idea about yours, ask the seller.

Has internal ignitor

Fair enough, though things have now changed. 730i E32 BMW for weekend cruising and just picked up an AE92 CS Spirit Seca for the missus to run around in. Quite stoked with the Seca, it isn't a powerhouse but is very good on fuel, sits 3 kids (10-12) quite comfortably. It has a surprising amount of room if needed, with rear seats folded down. Just need a towbar for the Seca and it will be able to pull around my 6x4 trailer.

Had to go to Samford for a work meeting today, meant I had to go for a run up over Mt Glorious. The seca did really well, quite surprised with how it handles for a stock FWD. She's not super quick, but still good fun. One thing I need to do is something about the gearchange. It is notchy into second and sometimes third. It doesn't grind/crunch, just hard to get in gear at times. I found a blip of the throttle on downchanges helps. Been doing a little research and it seems VMX80 gear oil is supposed to improve the gearchanges. Will have to get some. Only got 11.5 km per Litre :) with all the mountain work. $25 (PULP) for the 210 kay round trip, the E32 chews through $40 for the same drive.

Nup, no aircon, doesn't have rear seat headrests either (nor the holes for them in the top of the seat). I just used some polish (Kitten shit). It came up looking a lot better, but a bit of water just took it back to pretty much what it looked like before we even started. Was quite annoyed. I will get some decent cutting compound. Following is a pic after we did one half. The smeary marks (especially around the washer nozzle) was from some dried polish residue, which is what I attempted to remove with a damp cloth.

Keep in mind the old k series motors are not designed with as tight of tolerances as modern day multi-valve motors. I'd keep it mineral until at least a 1000 kays. As for oil type I'm pretty sure they recommended something like 20-40w from the factory. Check your owners handbook or on some oil manufacturers websites.

Yep, we plan on getting the windows tinted. It doesn't have aircon, which I really don't mind, would be nice in summer but less to go wrong with the car. Heaps of room with the back seat folded down, missus did it. Not much headroom in the back seat for me (I'm 6 foot), but should be ok for the kids for another 2-3 years. We attempted to polish up the bonnet which is the only part of the car that has been resprayed at some point in its' life. Came up reasonably good, but then I hit it with a wet rag to get rid of the polish residue... Stupid thing went back to looking chalky again for some reason. Will maybe see if I can find another decent bonnet still in the original red paint. Also got rid of the rattle from the plastic panel on the inside of the hatch. I cut up small lengths of fuel tube and put slits in them, then I slipped them over the edge of the plastic trim in selected areas. No more rattles. :)

This thing gets awesome fuel economy. Over 16km per litre.

Go the thin redwalls. Rim centers and GT stripes in the same colour as your mirrors?

On first start run it at 2500 for a half hour to bed in the cam. Gives you a chance to also check everything for leaks. Keep an eye on the temp. On the first drive, nail it up to about 3/4 of max revs (in 2nd and 3rd) about a dozen times or so. Combustion pressure is what forces the rings against the bore walls. High cylinder pressures early on will help to bed in the rings and avoid glazed bores. After that drive the car reasonably normal at varying loads and road speeds. Don't lug it, as it can cause pinging and overheating of your new motor that being tight will run hotter than normal. Change the oil and filter after about 300 kays (also retorque head gasket and reset valve clearances), then again at about a 1000. After the first 1000 kays just drive it as you would normally. If you want to run synthetic, don't put it in until about 1000 kays or so. Otherwise you may never bed the rings in and end up with lots of blowby and reduced compression with glazed bores.

I'd advise if considering fitting a bigger carb to fit a vacuum gauge first. Hammer the car through the gears and take a note of the lowest vacuum reading gained. If you are getting 0-1" vacuum a bigger carb won't be of any benefit as the carb is not a restriction. If you are getting readings of 2" or more of vacuum, remove the filter and try again to see if the readings drop... If so the filter is the restriction, fit a sports element. If even without the filter you are pulling 2" or more of vacuum at full throttle through the gears, then yes the carb is a restriction and a bigger carb will be of use to your combo. I ran a stock rejetted 3k carb on the warm 5k in my car for a bit. It would pull 3-4" of vacuum at full noise through the lower gears. With my DCD weber it pegs the needle at 0" of vacuum... LOL, you can hear the ping of the needle as it hits the zero stop through the gears.

Went out in the seca today to Ipswich to get some stuff for it. Geez the thing drives really nice. Got some tune up stuff, oil, filters, new thermostat etc. Also got some seatcovers for the front, a blanket for the back seat, steering wheel cover, dashmat, new hubcaps (old ones stuffed) and some other gear for it. LOL, the car is just going to be a stock practical everyday driver for the missus. ie. Bec spec. One thing I want to do is buff the bonnet as it is really the only thing letting down the cars overall appearance. Also need to have a look at the hatch as the inside plastic trim vibrates at idle. Here's a couple of pics, not great because it was getting dark by the time I remembered the camera. Will get more after it has had a wash and a bit of a polish.

Kinda. Compression Ratio = (Cylinder volume + combustion chamber volume) / combustion chamber volume.

Picked up a neat 1990 AE92 5 speed Seca CS Spirit for the missus this evening. It is red, stock as with a 4AFC with 230,000 kays on it. It is very nice to drive. She's stoked and already has fallen in love with it. Needs a little few minor touch ups and a good detail. Will get some pics up soon.