Felix

IDA would be cool for mid-top end. Probably would have to cut a hole in the bonnet though.

Nope. Would have run a DCD for at least 6 years in my ke15. I have however been stranded on the side of the road with twin aisans, when one of the carbs had a needle and seat stick open. Had fuel pouring out of the carb all over HOT extractors. Was the only time in about 20 years of driving KE corollas that I had to get a tow.

The first 3k's around 1969 or so in the ke11/17/18 through the ke2x series.

If you want period correct, go a DCD Weber (off of 60's mk1 GT cortina). Heaps simpler, more tunable, more reliable, better fuel economy with more performance. :rolls: I've run twin aisans on my ke15, but a single DCD weber shits all over the aisans.

With twin aisan's the motor doesn't see twice as much carburetion. Just see's less intake path resistance. Think about it from the intake ports point of view looking up the manifold... How many carb throats would it see with a single carb, and how many throats would it see with twin aisans? The same. Twin aisans are overrated, unless you are after originality. The aisan carbs are the most unreliable part of a corolla.

Going in from underneath the carb near the secondary is the grub screw that adjusts how far the secondary flap is cracked open at rest. See shitty pic:

Some DGV's have a set screw on the secondary throat. Might be your problem if the secondary is cracked open to far.

They are not Stromberg carbs. The are MOONJECTION Stromberg-Style EFI injection bodies from Mooneyes. :lolcry:

My 5k ke15 is the quickest accelerating car I've owned. My E32 BMW is a LOT faster speedwise, things designed for all day 200 kay plus autobahn cruising.

Better tyres.. Hasn't that thing got 12"ers on it?

Fixed. :jamie:

:P gotta love forum self moderation. :P

Rollaclub Forum Rules. Quote last paragraph:

Looks like the paint is crazed underneath, plus you'd be scratching it up with the razor. Paint strip it and respray it in the original colour if you like it.

Yea who gives a f@$k. One you put in your engine, one you put in your gearbox/diff.

After looking around a heap on different forums, I am about to try Castrol VMX80 with Nulon G70 treatment in the missus' AE92.. Seems to be the best option before spending stupid amounts of cash on gearbox oils like Redline.

booga

Not really. Your 5k has already got shallow dish pistons and is running a normal 4k type head (has no lugs under 1 and 4 spark plug holes). I'd also assume it is running the longer of the two types of hydraulic pushrods. This k motor business is really quite simple if you have a basic understanding of the differences between the different types. It is the people who f@$k around with shit they don't understand that over complicates things and leads to problems. As I see it you are headed at a fairly high compression ratio (maybe 9.5:1 at a rough guess) with the shallow dished pistons and a normal 4k head, which you may want to account for when choosing pulley ratios for your blower. I'd be CC'ing the piston crowns and combustion chambers of your head/s to work out your true CR, and possibly opening up the combustion chambers to drop the CR.

5k's have a larger lifter diameter. I don't get what is wrong with not staying with hydraulics? If the motor is going to be supercharged, you won't need to rev the ring out of it.

5k with a k50 5 speed.

I'd also add Yokohama C-Drives to your list. Very good allround performance (both wet and dry) with good wear.

Don't most ke70's have aussie borg warner diffs in them? I'd imagine your kaaz one would have been to suit a jap diff housing.

:D They must be dyslexic. Tell them you want a BR270MT.

G-O-GGet the f@$k outa my way. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TIdQFnUvCA...feature=related Coolest car build ever.

Or dished 4k.