Felix

Speed Camera :)

Lol. Watch those race cams on bumpa-t-bumpa (Autobahn) corner. :lolcry: I used to do that when I was 19. :blinks: f@$k that was 19 years ago... Man now I'm really feeling old. Do kids still do that?

MAD MAXine granny spec. :P

Hey Evan, got your PM. I'd look at what model weber it is, find the baseline jetting and start from there.

Same here. Hole punches are ideal for neatly and quickly punching out the bolt holes in the gaskets. What I miss are the old pinkish extractor gaskets (yes I know they were asbestos based). They were a million times better than the metal-ish ones you get these days.

Were the thrust bearings and oil pump gears good? You could try shimming the bypass spring on the oil pump.

I'd say you would get coil bind in the valve springs and strip the rocker pedestal bolt threads in the head before bending valves. So the 5k has the lugs under 1 and 4 spark plug holes? If so you definitely need the shorter pushrods.

Nice effort there. Spare tyre up front would be good. Should have painted it in hammertone. Where is the jockey wheel? I thought about buying a second hand trailer but ended up buying a new galvanized one, and am glad I did. I'm lazy these days. My 6x4 has got 900kg springs and a 2 foot cage on it which is friggen brilliant.

Maybe compression test it. Also crank it over with a timing light attached.

Jap = Front loader Borgwarner (aussie) = Inspection plate at rear of diff housing. Ke2x front yoke should work... If same family ie. Jap. The ke1x gearboxes were the odd ones out with regards to output spline.

You got a jap diff? If so get a gearbox yoke from a jap diffed ke3x (4/5 speed doesn't matter), and graft it onto the front of your existing tailshaft with a new uni joint (part No. K5-A517).

The point was, think about what you post on a public forum. :) And yes it is a very nice little car. Still got the stocky rims on it?

Maybe you need to spell like a retard in your search terms. You'll get more hits. My 10 year old kids can spell better than the majority of users on this forum....

BOOM! Headshot! :lolcry:

You've been spammed. I'd be more concerned about the one that comes through compromised advertising banners on webpages, telling you that you have a virus and need a scan.. You click the window and bammo you've just been infected with a hoax/virus/trojan that takes your computer hostage until you go to their website and pay a ransome. Had it happen on a sales reps laptop a few weeks ago, completely passed by Nortons... Was an easy fix.

That is more of a satin black. Has a bit of a sheen to it. Satin black looks shitloads better than flat/matte black.

Get the thing on the road first, then start putting the dreams into reality. Maybe do a bit of research in the time being.... Best thing to do is to do things in stages. A ke1x will bite you in the ass a lot quicker than any later model if you f@$k up behind the wheel when pushing the boundaries. Drive it stock, learn it's limits, update bits, relearn limits, rinse and repeat.

5k solid pushrods (if using head with lugs under 1 and 4 sparkplugs) are the same as those from a dished piston 4k, coupled with 3f/5k solid lifters.

Have a look on datsun1200.com for RWD E15ET conversions if you can find any.

Gut the old thermostat and throw it in. Drive it around for a few days and see how it goes.

I found a few ways to help with temperature. Replace std 7psi radiator cap with a 13psi item. Drill new holes in the number plate. Instead of it hanging from the top of the bumper, have it mounted in the middle to lift it up a bit and allow more airflow through the vent hole in the stone tray under the bumper. My ke16 when I got it had a thermo fan and it ran hot. I ditched it and found a plastic fan that mounted on the waterpump. Made it run a lot cooler... It is a pity that there is not enough room behind the radiator in the ke1x to put in a decent shroud for a thermo fan. Would make them run a LOT more effectively pulling through the entire radiator core, rather than pushing through just the area of the fan.

Air velocity and air pressure are two different things. With higher air pressure you'd have more air molecules for a given volume, yet you'd still have the same air velocity through the carb. ie. denser air moving at the same speed, making it run leaner. I'd be maybe looking into the blowthru variants of SU carbs (as in MG Metro turbos) and how they go about metering fuel for varying air (boost) pressures. Might be easier to move the air intake point to a low pressure area like through the guard/wheel well as previously mentioned to minimise pressure variables.

Probably not such a bad thing to investigate the 4afc setup. Think the aim here is a torquey economotor. Altezzaclub have you got any books by David Vizard? Check out what he writes on "Torque Rams" in relation to mini A series motors. Might help in stabilising intake pressures and will really fatten up the torque curve (for your 3rd-4th gear issue).

Put a 5k in it. More torque. Halve your gear changes.

Maybe if the O2 sensor is hooked up to an efi motor while it is in closed loop mode. You do realise a carbed car is analogue, and in this case the O2 sensor is used for monitoring purposes only... As for his mixtures altering with differing wind directions, have you ever heard of the ram air effect? I'd say altezzaclub is experiencing a form of this. The headlight is causing a shrouding effect dependent on wind direction, which is reducing intake pressure. For someone trying to exude knowledge, your replies in this thread seem to express the total opposite. Who really cares what you've done, this thread isn't about you. Consider either pulling your head in or taking an extended holiday from this forum.