Felix

Or the wheel bearings are stuffed.

So long as the speedo reads faster than your actual road speed you could always just learn to live with it. If the speedo reads slower than your road speed, then yes definitely do something about it. Don't want yourself or whoever may be driving your car getting speeding tickets while thinking you are doing the limit.

Low cars.... Win for those who like an ass pounding. :)

Yep Cam I'd say that was the cause. I always found it wasn't worth filling the tank up or I'd get bad fuel overflow and fuel fumes in the cabin. 7/8's was about the most you could put in or it would end up all down the side of the car on right hand corners.

Yea the wagons (well at least the manuals) came with 4.44 diffs standard. The one in my ke16 was pilfered by Redwarf before we got the car. LOL. Cleaned all the windows of the ke15 on the inside this evening with vinegar and water. It was fricken filthy. I can actually see out now. When I test drove it the other night I could hardly see a thing. Need to make a new rear parcel shelf. The old one that was made from MDF has disintegrated for some reason on the passenger side. Think fuel has gotten into it or something. No pics yet, was to dark.

They are the 4k-e or twin squish type. Jap import motor you have there. Shares same head as dished 5k. Downsides none, unless you try to get replacement pistons. Upside, they make more power than the normal flatop motors.

It is a 3k bigport.

I just wire brush valves to clean them up. Put a wire brush in a drill, clamp drill to edge of bench, brush valves. That head has had the welsch plug at the back of it welded up. Good thing, as they can pop out and quickly cost you a motor. Take just the bare head and valves to a machine shop, get them to skim the head and also do a 3 angle job on the valves. Should only cost $100-150. You could look into some umbrella type valve stem seals (escort 1600 maybe). The overhead oring type on those early 3k heads suck, and would be a major contributor to all that oil buildup in the combustion chambers.

Yea, has a coarse finish something like this: Just use standard off the shelf 4k clutch discs. Has a PBR in there. Had the same pressure plate (different flywheel) on my old 4k for 3 1/2 years. When I pulled it and looked at the clutch disc there was no noticable wear compared to a new clutch disc. Wouldn't surprise me if the pressure plate was some sort of mild upgrade. Heavier pedal than the ke16 had. Just looks normal though, not prettily painted like a lot of upgaded pressure plates you see.

You should have a 4.44 in your wagon philbey, providing it is original. They are the second set of A539's that have been on the car. Picked up SuperJamies ones which had sfa kays on them and stored them until I needed them. Still have 90% tread. Got 40,000 kays out of the first set, which wore pretty much even. Great tyres, pity they don't make them anymore.

Yep, the car was always meant to be a no frills driver. My philosophy is if a mod doesn't improve the actual driving experience, it is just a waste of time and money. Car 68 Ke15 Sprinter (non SL) Motor: 5k with about 50-60,000 kays on the bottom end, 5k head ported by myself, double valve springs, K-line guides, 3 angle valve job, Tighe 113 cam (270 degree 400 thou lift), orig hydraulic lifters converted to solids (gutted), 3k pushrods, 4k rocker gear, double row timing chain, shimmed oilpump. ke1x ancillaries ie. waterpump, thermostat housing, alternator etc. plastic radiator fan. Ignition: Scorcher recurved Bosch points dizzy, Echlin GX80 sports coil, Dick Smith High Energy Ignition Kit. Induction: 28/36 DCD Weber (from mk1 1500 GT cortina), on adapter plate with ported manifold. Exhaust: Pacemaker 4 into 1 extractors with 1 7/8" sports system running single reverse flow muffler. Driveline: Ke70 5 speed, the pressure plate and flywheel (4k) came off a turbo bottom end I acquired years ago and have a coarse finish on driven surfaces which is very bitey. Diff is stock ke1x rear housing with ke35 4.33 center. Orig ke1x driveshaft has ke70 drive end and ke30 diff end changed onto it. Brakes: Ke20 front hubs with ke30 discs. Rear std ke1x drums. Front Suspension: Leaves removed. Shortened ke20 coils with ke20 top hats. ke3x HD Monroe GT front strut inserts with spacers (2 inches less droop). Whiteline 22mm front swaybar. About an inch or so lower than stock. Rear Suspension: Tokiko HD hydraulic shocks (2 inches less droop), urethane shackle bushes. Std rear leaves at stock height.... Car is meant to be used, can take rear seat passengers and a boot of groceries without bottoming/scrubbing. Rolling Stock: Mazda 626 (series 2?) 13x5.5" steelies with Yokohama A539 185/60x13 tyres. Has chrome trim rings. Inside: Aftermarket woodrim steering wheel. Vacuum guage and small oldschool tacho mounted on steering column. AFR guage for carb tuning (O2 sensor in exhaust). Early ke10 front seats (had ke20 ones in it when I got it). overrated dashpad. Probably a few things I've forgotten. She's nothing flash to look at, fattened stock would be the best way to describe it. Needs some body work and a respray. The 9-10 year old little beaver paint job is looking pretty sad. Interior needs some work, seats need retrim. Intend to give her some lovin once we move soon and settle into a new house. To drive it is a hell fun A to B car. Will have to get up some pics.

I use the Jap diffs and yep the ke3x centers bolt straight in using the original ke1x axles. Just have to change the end bit on the tailshaft to match (with a new uni) the later diff flange, as the bolt patterns are different. Currently have a ke35 4.33 diff in the 15. Never really had an issue with breakages at all over the 8+ years the car has been on the road. Did do in bearings in the orig 4.22 diff doing motorkhanas. Excess backlash in a ke36 4.55 that had a really good hiding and got noisy as. Now on it's third center. The car can easily spin the rears through second with fairly sticky 185 yoky A539's as I rediscovered by accident. Oops. :wink: I don't do rev and dumps or burnouts though.

The ke15 lives again! :wink: I forgot how much fun the thing is to drive. LOL, she's a wild ride. Flushed the radiator, cleaned the interior out a bit, put on the current rego sticker, missus gave it a wash while I went and got a new battery for it. She's a self contained keystarter now. I'm still grinning from the short drive I had this evening.

Liking the front seats.

I put seatbelts allround and a crab bar in the back of the old EH wagon I had and didn't worry about a mod plate. I spoke to an engineer and mounted everything properly. I figured since the car was pre-ADR that nobody would say much. Coppers pull you up, what can they really do.... "yep no worries, so you want me to remove all the safety restraints seeing as the car had none standard?".

Hey Cam, that sounds like a great idea. Maybe next time though. Don't have much hose and I think the local hardware shop is closed tomorrow. It is all good, I'll just get the missus or one of the kids to pump the pedal. :wink: Yep, we'll have to go on a cruise somewhere with the two ke15's once the car proves it's reliability again.

You'll need to rewire your auto park switch or you'll never start it. No idea of the auto diff ratios. You could always jack up one rear wheel and work out what your current ratio is.

Well it has been over a year now since I last drove my ke15. Been a long time since I've looked at this thread, just went back through and reuploaded the few old pics that weren't working. This afternoon I finished off putting in the rear wheel cylinders, shoes, adjusted them up and also adjusted the handbrake. Just need to bleed the brakes. Wanted to do it this evening, but I'm stuffed after being really crook the last few days. Hopefully tomorrow it is coolish, and I can bleed the brakes, and put it back on its wheels. Push it out of the shed, jump start it, maybe flush the radiator and go buy a new battery for the thing. It is still registered so ready to go as soon as I pull my finger out. Want to get the old beast going again as I need the shed space, plus a cool car to drive around while I put the E32 up on stands in the shed for some suspension components, new rear shocks a set of front lowered springs and a replacement powersteering pump (once I track one down) which just shat itself. I must say working on the ke15 is a joy, everything is small, light and simple. Actually getting excited at the thought of driving the thing, miss the power and chuckability.

If you have a problem with something in a forsale thread, hit the "report" button and a mod will look into it and clean it up. The word is "input".

Pretty much standard for a ke1x. They were designed for crossply tyres not radials. Lower it an inch or so, add a front swaybar (keeps it flat and stops it leaning on the outer edge during cornering), rotate the tyres every 6 months and the tyres will wear evenly.

Sounds good. Forget the flares and bonnet scoop though if you want to make it a sleeper. Sleepers are meant to look stockish and not give anything away until you tromp it.

Nearly got it. The above cam has 280 degrees duration with 60 degrees overlap. :dance: Really it is just simple maths when you get your head around the concepts.

Karmot is one supplier. I'm out of the loop, has been 6 years or so since I worked as a parts interpreter. Check around your local spare parts joints to see what they can get. Here's some part No's anyway to get you started: Another one: Rollmaster CS9000... Think it is adjustable with multi-keyways.

Google it. Seriously the only way to learn is to research things yourself. The websites of camshaft manufacturers are a good place for info. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm