Felix

No the problem I'm having is that the windows install disc will not recognise the SATA drive. I could probably press F6 to install the sata drivers from A: drive, but I don't have the SATA drivers (as yet), nor do I have any old floppy discs laying around to copy the files to. LOL. Looks like I need to create a custom XP install disc and streamline the SATA drivers onto it with nLite. I may as well streamline SP3 onto it at the same time. Not really a big issue, but there are many other things I'd rather be doing than root around with an old crap machine.

XP and SATA drives. :wub:

Easiest thing to do is pull out the 5k cam and get it reground. About the biggest issue you can run across is the possibility of needing to get the base of the rocker pedestals milled down if you have insufficient hydraulic lifter preload. A point to keep in mind if you use a cam laying around originally from a flattop 3/4k is that they have a wider rear cam bearing journal than the 5k (or dished 4k) cams. The wider rear cam journal on the flattop cams can press against the welschplug at the rear of the cam tunnel when you put it in a 5k and cause problems.

Definitely. The chev lifter a12 pushrod combo works on a 5k with a 3k head. If you use the orig 5k head the pushrods are too long as the 5k heads are not as tall.

Agreed. The mudflaps don't suit at all, unless you were to put the stock rims back on.

In general 4-2-1's give more torque and 4into1's give more topend.

Jaycar. Check their website.

I can see someone is going to get slapped hard if the gf reads this thread. :D

:P Corollas are cheap reliable mass produced shopping trolleys. There are a few models that are kinda cool but I wouldn't call them exactly stylish.

Most likely safer than an old RWD corolla in an accident.

QFT. unless they are built for performance. Even then, give me a manual :P Depends on the car. My car (built in 1987) has normal, sports and manual modes. In manual mode it locks the torque converter which is great on downhill mountain roads for downshifting for corners and greatly minimizes the level of braking required to that of a manual car. A manual would be better for takeoffs with the extremely tall gearing and tight torque converter the car has. Personally though I don't mind the auto at all. Also has a hydraulic brake booster setup which gives about 15 boosted braking applications without the motor running.

Exactly. China doesn't give a crap about copyright, patents or licencing of designs.

Good to hear you got it sorted. I installed a cam a tooth out once and only once in my early days of playing with motors. :blinks: LOL, sometimes you have to learn the hard way.

The original ke10 tyres were 6.00-12 which equates to 155/80/12. A 185/60/13 has an identical rolling diameter. Page from ke10 driver handbook:

False advertising. Should have read two owner car. :blinks:

Umm, I don't follow at all Evan. The proper name of the tool I was talking about is a Piston Stop. Here is a pic of a Comp Cams version: They are easy to make though. A pic to hopefully better explain how to use: And the page it came from with another explanation of how to use. Google "piston stop" if you can't work it out.

Many years ago I made up a TDC tool out of an old sparkplug like this. Makes it real easy to find exact TDC. :blinks: You turn the motor one way until the tool just makes contact with the piston, make a mark on the pulley/balancer in relation to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then turn the motor over the opposite way until contact is made, make another mark. Between the two new marks is the precise TDC... File and liquid paper the new centerline.

With those helicoils and other thread repair systems, you drill the hole out larger and tap it, screw in the insert then run your original bolts.

You could use Heilicoils, Keyserts, Timeserts or similar.

Member Name - Felix Area - Gatton Daily Drive - 87 E32 BMW Awaiting TLC - ke15, ke16, ke10x2

Shh! Secret Squirrel stuff. :happy:

Hey Rob, did you supply the valve springs that Peter Moll used on the 5k in his old ke20 club car? I remember that the cam he used was from you.

Yep that is the one. You have to drill a couple of holes in each front rail for the mounting brackets. Also have to drill a hole in each suspension arm for the lower mounts that the link pins hook up to. Everything is included in the kit, ie. swaybar, mounting brackets, link pins, 10 urethane bushes, nuts, bolts etc. You just have to supply a drill, some bits, spanners and an hour or two to mount it.

Yea, I fitted a Whiteline front kit to both my ke15 and ke16. Bolts up pretty easy once you've drilled some holes. You should try some decent 185/60/13 tyres (on 13x5.5" or 13x6" rims) with the front swaybar. The thing will go around corners twice as fast. :P

If you fit ke20 springs, you will need to remove the front leaves. If you don't it is going to sit really high. Another thing, if you remove the leaves you need a front swaybar, otherwise you will get way more bodyroll when cornering. The leaves have a swaybar effect.