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Felix

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Everything posted by Felix

  1. Most probably were worn on the front axle then been rotated to the rear.
  2. You just gotta decide whether you really like the car or not, and if the time and money you would have to invest would be worth it. Most likely it would be far cheaper to just buy a very good example of that model and use your old one as spares. As for corollas appreciating in value, well don't hold your breath, unless it is a overrated original example. Now if you had one of the rarer more historically significant models it probably will moreso over time. I've seen hundreds of the ke30 2door sedans on the roads over the years. I've seen maybe ten ke15/17 sprinters on the road in the last 15 years..... The ke1x sprinters are rarer than R100's yet are only worth 7 grand or so for a overrated example, whereas a overrated R100 is worth around 30-40 grand.
  3. Or a dildo gear knob. Now I could understand a chick wanting one with a lumpy cam, but not some fella....
  4. Best thing to do would be buy another motor (4k or 5k) and an engine stand. You can then tinker to your hearts content and when your new motor is ready swap it in over a lazy weekend. Setting a cam up is easy if you follow a manual. If you want to do up a head, strip it down so only the valves are in it (springs and retainers removed and numbered), and give it to a machine shop. Get them to skim it and give the valves a 3 angle job. Should only cost 100-150 dollars. Reassemble it yourself, you'll save in labour and learn more in the process. In the meantime do the extractors and exhaust. Keep the exhaust under 2 inches. Avoid the 32/36 DGV carbs.
  5. I chose C Drives and am very happy with the choice. They are on an E32 BMW, the car is a tourer so more a compromise between comfort and performance. Very nice tyres, excellent wet and dry grip, without being harsh. Found them to be very consistant in all conditions, great through standing water/puddles and give a lot of confidence on slimy wet mountain roads. They were very noisy though over patched road surfaces for the first thousand kays or so until they broke in. For a thrasher I'd be going for the RE001's (or S Drives). Would have a more dry grip than the C Drives, but wouldn't be anywhere as nice in the wet. They wouldn't wear as well with their lower treadwear rating. I've read that the RE001's go off quicker when they wear down a bit. Edit: Wish my tyresize was that cheap... 225/55/16 = $240 a shoe for C Drives.
  6. Yep it is the same. Just checked the Mackay Consolidated Engine Mount Catalog. Mackay Part number A1238. Kelpro Part Number MT8009.
  7. Terminus Movie Saw this recently on the SOS short film show on SBS.
  8. Pretty sure they are.
  9. What's wrong with VW's?
  10. The US called their scheme the "Cash for Clunkers Program". In the US they had to seize all of the engines of the cars turned in. They drain the engine oil and put sodium silicate (liquid glass) in the motors and run them til they stop. Do a search on youtube on "cash for clunkers" and you will see heaps of vids of cars taking there last breath. Example: Guess they see it as one way to revive the sales of new cars.
  11. There was a similar scheme in the US, though I think the US got a $5000US trade in over there. The guy who couldn't prevent it getting crushed didn't trade it in, someone else did to buy a new car. Basically you have an old car, the government offers a trade in incentive to take your old clunker off the road and in exchange you get a big discount off the purchase of a new car. Obviously there is paperwork and stuff involved and your old car becomes nullified ie. crushed.
  12. Salespeople at JB Hifi. Was in the localish one today and asked if they had any 2 cubic foot ported sub enclosures for my new sub. LOL, the dude didn't know what the f@$k he was on about and was talking "cubic meters". WTF. Anybody should know that the standard of measurement for sub boxes is either cubic feet or liters. Needless to say I didn't buy one.
  13. About 15 bux at the scrap metal recyclers.
  14. Go the EH Holdens. An aussie icon with a much wider market when it comes to selling.
  15. ;) Original colours are a safe bet, but there are hundreds of other colours out there that would look good and suit the era of the car. Look at colours from other manufacturers from around the same era for ideas. With wheels, well what do you like? What sort of look are you chasing? Granny spec or Jap spec like the masses with little imagination? It is your car, your decision. If you want to be different just like everybody else, then by all means build your car according to everyone elses ideas.
  16. Round ones.
  17. In general the higher the pressure (keeping within the manufacturers recommended ratings), the lower the tyre slip angle.
  18. Pink with purple polkadots.
  19. :jamie: Look at the recommended pressures printed on the tyres sidewalls and experiment from there. Personally I've found with RWD cars I like running the fronts about 4 psi higher than the rears. A FWD will probably be a bit different though. On my ke15 (185/60x13 A539s) I run 44psi front / 40psi rear. SFA sidewall flex, plus even tyre wear with regular tyre rotations. Neutral steer with awesome traction both wet and dry. Tyre quality plus suspension setup makes a MASSIVE difference to how a car handles.
  20. Have you done a "wet" compression test to determine if the compression leakage is from the top end or bottom end?
  21. :) A lot of money for a poser burnout car that could never be registered. Some people have more money than sense.
  22. Easy. Leave the crap on the floor, don't bother with the dishes, throw her damp clothes from the washing machine on the floor to go mouldy, leave her clothes on the line, and let the cat die. As for the facebook addiction, setup a password on your computer/s that she does not know. :) Sounds like it is dummy spit/upgrade time.
  23. You can use a RRFPR in a non boosted setup, if no boost line is connected fuel pressure is referenced to atmospheric pressure. The Malpassi carb one I have is adjustable. Biggest problem is they are a return style regulator, so NEED a return line.... Otherwise they will just supply full pump pressure. A dead-head style reg (Holley type) is needed if you don't run a return line.
  24. Thanks guys, I'll have a look at the bios again tomorrow. Didn't look at it today as had to go to Nebo. WGMG's is the crazy pushbike riders on Mt Nebo. Riding in the middle of the lane is sheer madness, especially if you catch them around a blind corner. :wub:
  25. E32 BMW?
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