ke70dave

google has the answers. i googled "mobile locksmith melbourne snapped key" found this guy http://www.galmierlocksmiths.com.au/ and from his website: Emergency Locksmith work: Lock outs, broken key removal, repairs after break ins, last minute deadlock and window lock installations. call him and ask for a quote....

hmm yeah i woudlnt be putting any fuel (more specifically fuel vapours) anywhere near some electrics. you want the fuel filler to be completely sealed from the cabin and any electrics. which is why the number plate idea works, as the number plate is just there to cover up the ugly fuel filler, and at all times the fuel and vapours are completly seperate from the interiour of the car. and sure it will take up boot space, thats why toyota put the fuel filler where it is:P

hinging the taillight or hinging the number plate??? plenty of old cars had hinged number plates for the fuel filler cap. you could just "shave" off the locking mechanism on the standard fuel door, that would defiantely be an improvement. then just get a cable pull thing from a CSX and use that. or get one of those alloy plates to make it look like a race car filler cap :cool:

mmm mine hasnt got any either..and its been going for 2 yrs now. you get them from RWD A series motors, so 4ac out of an ae71 or ae86

far out that is cool unsure why it works....it shouldnt....but it does.... what model is it? looks pretty olld.

wheels look good! they do look quite big on the car, but they are only 15's...interesting. agreed a bit lower, but your exhaust is uber low as it was. i remember watching from behind as we were driving down the highway! might need to get that tucked up a bit i reckon! keep up the good work!

ah well then you wont have any holes, just a matter of getting the glass and trims of the flat front.

or get a pair of slanty front doors, they don't have the holes in the doors. then use your current glass and window trims and put them into the slanty doors. the slanty stocko front windows have the corner cut off, to allow for the mirror to bolt on (triangle in the corner of window) so you use the "flat front" glass and trims for the door glass which goes right into the corner. then you bolt on your fender mirrors, and knowone is the wiser.... edit: i hope you werent serious about leaving the standard mirrors there......man that would look weird.

on a side note, normal petrol will go off as well. my mate has his car (st162 celica, with 3sge) un started for a few months (engine conversion etc)and although it did run, it didnt run very well...and the fuel (maybe 1/4 tank) in it smelt weird as, like it had gone off. refused to rev and kept misfiring, ended up just filling it up with 98 and it went ok after that. prolly should have just drained out the old stuff, but diluting it seemed to work.

Which ones weren't originated in Australia? ae70 didnt come to aus (there are a few around, not many) the other two did What model would be the easiest to bolt mods straight onto? depends what you want to bolt in, suspension is all the same, ae70/71 run an A motor, Ke70 run a k motor What model had the original quad headlights?.. none in AUS, its the te71's in overseas countries that have quads. Any information on these models would be very helpful! too broad of a question mate:P

well the ma61 wheel is 14x7" (as per the link i posted) 7" = 177mm or so 185/60/r14 is what you want. most common size for 14" wheels, plenty of cheap ones available as well as some good ones. no point going any bigger, its only a t18 and persumably its still 3tc, not a powerhouse so you don't need any more rubber. now an excercise for you. go and find a tyre diameter calculator (google it) find out what size tyres come on standard t18 (don't make a new thread about it....) find out the diameter difference between your standard tyre size, and the 185/60/r14. it should be minimal different, and thus your speedo should stay accurate. edit: did you even read the link i sent to you in your other thread? http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=18201 all the info is in there, even tyre sizes. post #4 even tells you how far they will stick out compared to standard wheels/tyres.

what do you mean handle? you can fit a set of 4wd mud tyres in the boot. the 3tc will handle that fine. need some more info mate! what are you trying to achieve?

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=18201 nice bit of a discussion here.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=62301 this is pretty interesting. just remember that 4age engines are nothing special. an engine is an engine.

i dare say both straight cut gears and a dog selection setup would be a complete and utter pain in the butt to drive anywhere except a race track. straight cut gears are also LOOUDDD, reverse gear is straight cut and youve heard the nice whining noise they give out. the T50 is good in its form, but it it is still a pretty small gbox not really designed to take alot of power (they came behind a 1.6L n/a remember) and any money you spend on it to get it up to scratch (sounds alot by the 500/600 price tag on single ratios) you may be better off just going the W box option. edit: that albins lnk is great, the write up on dog vs synchomesh is very interesting.

the main diference is that the smallport has 3 pickups/triggers in it, a 24tooth wheel with 1 trigger, and then 2 pickups on a 2tooth wheel.(4 wires, square style plug). the top photo is one of these bigport only has 2 pickups, a 24tooth wheel with 1 pickup (back of dizzy), and a 4 tooth with 1 pickup (front, closest to rotor button) (3 wires, round plug) not interchangeable as far as i know. you may be able to use a smallport dizzy in a bigport and just disregard a pickup. but it would require some thinking to work out which trigger does what. and some rewiring. but you wont be able to use the bigport dizzy in the smallport as it will be missing a pickup.

yep was good to have a chat mr cameron. I saw quite a few nice looking corollas out at lakeside yesty, unfortuantely i didnt get over to the "show and shine" part, but saw a few nice cars leaving. as well as some real nice cars in the "cruise" around the race track. ive seen it on here but the bloke with the red ke15 (17?) with the wicked stealth turbo 5k setup, such a nice car! and nice bloke too! was a good day! good to chat to some other enthusiasts. i think i got pretty sunburnt though....

hows this one: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM7219&keywords=thermometer&form=KEYWORD only goes up to 220C this one is $100, goes to 650 apparently http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM7221&keywords=thermometer&form=KEYWORD

just becareful what you decide is "earth" something like the ilumination wire will appear to be "earth" if its not turned on, as well as other power wires that don't appear to be +12. i did this in a rushed install in my mates magna, blew the dash light/ilumination fuse and it took me a while to work out what i had done! so best bet, when you think you have found an "earth" turn on a bunch of stuff with your test light still connected to it, and make sure that it is actually earth. or just find a bolt under your dash and attach your earth from your CD player to this.

make it out of a V8 with a big enough bore to use the bores as wine bottle holders! not sure where you would get a monster v8 block from. and i do like how they weld the conrods/pistons to hold up the glass, that is cool.

ahhhhhh now i get it. sorry i thought the thread was part of the rose joint (ie a "male" rose joint) and i was wondering how exactly you were gonna adjust it!

yeah i woudlnt be worried about those bolts! they will tow the titanic (well maybe not off the bottom of the ocean...) that is some sweet engineering there mate, love it very much! i wouldnt call it a "budget" panhard rod. cheap yes, but not cheap on quality! just one Q what was the reasoning on drilling a hole in the galv pipe before welding on the nut? (for the rod itself)

hmm white to me sounds like an oxide of some kind, which is to be expected since combustion burns with oxygen combustion produces NOx and SOx right, both of which are oxides...what does NOx and SOx look like? can they be a crystal form like that? (though they are produced in gas form as far as i am aware...) maybe that air pump was keeping these by products under control (unsure how....) and with it removed it allows one of them to be produced in a higher doseage enough to form that powdery substance? i may in fact be taling rubbish, and can thus be ignored! i like the idea of mr altezza about getting a small amount analysed by a chemical mob...

pretty sure thats not correct about the GZE. 20V has pistons with 5 valve cut outs for a start. also lets get some real numbers going here. work out how much air your engine will eat at say peak power (8000ish in a 20V?) work on 100% volumetric efficiency at first, though its unrealisic, its prolly around the 80% area. now try and find some actual numbers on flow of the superchargers in question. and then compare. alternatively work out the air flow of a 16V 4agze and compare it to the 20V. i dare say they will be pretty close. only 1 extra valve on the intake side, thought that is 30% more "valves". though there is still only 2 exhaust valves, unsure if that is the limiting factor. probably not for VE. now onto the 20V itself, the compression standard is pretty high (11.5?:1) if you run low PSI, and a GOOD tune i think you may be able to get away with it, but the engine will be a bit of a hand grenade. it will be rediculsouly responsive but unsure how long it will last. now when i say good tune, I'm talking spending hours and hours tuning every load cell, i think when most tuners "tune" engines they tune for what and thats about it.... best bet would be to put a set of 4agze pistons (semi forged with a ceramic coating, available new for about $500) into the 20V, unsure on what compression ratio you will end up with though. you should be able to use the standard conrods, same piston gudgeon pin size. if anything the sc12 may only be able to keep up with 8psi or so on the 20V, where as i think ive seen guys with sc12's on 16v's getting 10/12psi out of the sc12.

someone in a beige ke30/ke55 flashed his lights at me on my way to work at eagle farm. was on curtin avenue west. anyone on here?