ke70dave

yeah i can't work it out, on the surface it doense seem to make much sense. h also doesnt heating oil only effect its viscosicty? not its density? in which case assuming the pump is able to pump the same volume of oil the pressure shouldnt change with temperature? i assume the drop in oil pressure with temperature can be attributed to the oil pump having more "trouble" pumping a more viscous fluid (hot oil) around? and thus the pressure is lower? though i guess they are using the increased oil pressure with revs to allow oil to flow the cooler. i have a 20V sandwhich plate at home, i should see whats inside of it..

hmm thats a very interesting engine that VW have! though these guys running single turbos, are they going after large horsepower? or power everywhere? if a race car spends 90% of its time in the top 40% of the rev range, then a single turbo may be the way to go. though a street car you might want power everywhere and a nice steady power/torque curve? my mate used to have a stocko r32 gtr, and it was making ~8psi of boost from 2500rpm all the way to 9000rpm. i dare say this can only be achieved with the twin smaller turbos? what you think? interesting with the GTR it didnt really have the "turbo kick" when the boost came on, it was so nice and smooth all the way up the revs. though it seems that if you go chasing higher power figures then single turbo may be the way to go. depends what you want i guess. I'm not arguing for or against, just merely explaining my experiences!

just curious what did you do about the "ignition key comes out" problem? mine does that....didnt realise it was a RWC thing though.

c'mon dude throw some commas in your posts!!!!! took me 4 reads of your post to work out what you were trying to say... anyway, i recall reading a huge thread on toymods a while ago, basiclaly said the only reason one should try and twin charge an an engine was for the academic excercise, the "because i can" excuse. which to me is a perfectly good excuse to use to attempt to twin charge an engine. with this kind of thing you really are trying to re-invent the wheel, theres prolly a reason that there is hardly any standard engines that do it. but thats no reason for it not to work, its just not viable for mass production. i always wondered about a proper by-pass valve in a (super/turbo setup). something designed from scrath, that would be awesome for a 1-off design, but no good for mass production. surely there is a way of making said valve work well. and as for using twin turbo chargers, there has been no discussion of different rear housings/rear wheels/front housings/front wheels. there is so much to a turbo than just "t28 bb's"! to be honest i don't know much about it,mainly because ive had no reason to look into it.. for instance say you used 2 small turbos on a 4age (2 cylinders per turbo), you could use a really tiny rear housing, and a larger wheel wheel, and then a smaller front housing and a bigger wheel, i mean could that work? ive no idea, but its another idea. amazing the rotor heads get right into modifying turbos, but you don't see it much in piston engine enthusiastis. well not that ive seen anyway.

an ignitor is a bunch of transistors which convert the "spark" signal from an ECU (small signal) to a signal that is sent to the coil which makes the spark plugs fire. its so you don't put any load on your ECU, ignitors actually get fairly hot from the transistors turning off and on, so you don't want this load on your ecu. as i said it connects to ECU, so its only in EFI engines. (incorrect as explained below) as for the coil, not sure, if it looks like the one you have bolt it in and see if it works! coil only has wires, +12V, and the other side is a trigger wire from your dizzy (also goes to your tacho). the coil will need to be grounded though.

yeah i was under the impression that the 4age ones are a pressure based system? so when your reving it hard it flows oil to the oil cooler, then when your driving slow it doesnt? just had a good read through this thread cameron, very cool car you have there. such a shame about the 5k though, hope you get it back on the road soon:(

reminds me of when the penny dropped in my head that my headgasket was blown in an unknown condition engine. fill up radiator to full, start engine, check water level, level dropped, add more, level dropped, add more.....*thinks to self must be air bubbles*, level dropped, add more, level dropped, add more, drop sump plug....swear lots. (headgasket replaced, and its still going strong 18months later!)

are you saying people under the age of 25 should be able to read it? well I'm only 22 and i can't read half of them:P to the OP (and others that refuse to type correctly), the amount of effort that you have put into YOUR post will directly incfluince the amount of effort I'm going to put into MY post. if i c obvius nd stupid spelling mistakes dat sho dat u hav put know efort nto ur posts den y shld i try nd dcifer whot u r tryng 2 ask us? nd y shld i try my best to answer u? shur sum wuld say dat i shld just do et 2 keep the community goin, butt der cums 2 a point wher i just can't b stuffed. (that actually took me more time to write that than it would have if i had just written real words!!!) and sentence structure, before you post, read what you have typed out aloud, if you almost die from lack of oxygen because you have no commers or full stops, then there is something wrong! and lastly, broad questions like "can i fit this engine into this car" show that you have not researched it at all, and are wanting to be spoon fed the information. this tells me that you are not serious about the engine conversion. oh yeah welcome to rolla club! sr20det is an INSANE engine to put into a corolla. alot of fun to be had...

thats what i was wondering..... unless it was bought by both of you, even then, its still half your car....

ah good to hear mate I'm unsure on if a 3k starter is good enough, it might be a little sad perhaps? running low on brushes? battery charged up? see how you go with the carby though!

yep thats the one! just give the surfaces your gonna bolt it to a quick scratch up, make sure there is a bit of bare metal. also just a side not, your engine guages and instruments (temp, oil pressure) wont work unless you have that ground on.

nah mate, rubber no good for conducting electricities. rubber is an insulator. you need a proper ground "strap" on your engine. basically find a chunky wire, and bolt it somewhere on your engine, and then bolt it somewhere on your chassis. if you don't have one, they sell them at supercheap for pretty cheap. chunky bit of wire with rings at each end for bolts.

you got a decent ground on the engine from the chassis?

i try and 'work to live' and not 'live to work' spare time usually includes, indoor soccer, fiddling with corolla of course, pc games, xbox, hanging out with lady friend, movies. id like to get into RC planes (got a few RC cars), and would also like to build a model railyway. but need to move out first to have the room for the railway. I'm the sound guy at church, and we just bought an awesome digital sound desk (yamaha m7cl-48 for those interested), so my new hobby is working out how to use it! church on sunday nights, but if I'm on sound that takes up most of the afternoon as well (form 3pm onwards) i play guitar a bit, but am looking at buying a digital drum kit to learn drums and not annoy the neighbours to much.

had a look for that sensor, no luck so far... but ill have another look tomorrow arvo, think theres another box of crap somewhere....

now we're talking!!!!! that should get your car hammering.... is that a 4agze motor you have started with? edit, i can see a 4agze CAS, so i assume you have a 4agze rest of it! lookin good. ill check downstairs for that air temp sensor, i think i might have a spare.

see if you can get your hands on an SAE paper on resonance http://www.sae.org/servlets/productDetail;...CD=2002-01-3318 something like this.

and your age, if your a P plater no engine conversion for you! (on the road anyway) keep in mind my 16V conversion cost around 3k all up, that was with some very good bargains too. engine conversions are not a cheap excercise.

nah they are cheap as i bought something simliar not long ago, was under $15.

called a T-peice! hehe its not a toyota item, its from a hydraulic shop. youll need to go to a hydraulic shop to get another. i suggest you take all the bits you need to join (the oil filter thing (once you get that bit snapped off bit out), pull that off your engine, and both your senders) just plonk it all on your their desk, and say i need to join all these three things together. they will sort you out. there is so many different threads out there, its not worth trying to work them all out, the guys at the they hydrayulic shop deal with them every day so they know what they are doing.

yep agreed ive been stuffing around with megasquirts on my mates 12a rx7, for the price, you get ALOT of features. can be a bit tedius though to get running well, you do need to spend alot of time tuning (if you road tune that is) and you need to be pretty good at wiring to get it all wired up, especially if your going to build new circuits for extra features. if your going to go aftermarket ecu, you may as well get one that does fuel and spark (unsure what you do about CAS on k motors, but I'm sure its do-able). then you can fiddle with the ignition timing too. in the rx7 we have a best time of 13.096 for 1/4 mile and that is just from us road tuning! still going after 18months to. carbs on the other hand are cool, since they are old school, and everyone loves the noise of decent carbys. (my dream is a 1970's skyline GTR with tripple carbs, damn that would be cool)

can't quite work out what you have/havnet checked, but i suggest the following: -connect up a check engine light, so you can tell when the ECU is on, and you can check for ECU error codes -there is a chunky orange wire in your engine loom, which powers almost everything important make sure this has power from ignition. -make sure you have +12V on one side of your injectors (this is from the formentioned chunky orange wire) -make sure any grounds on the engine are in good order, especially the ground that is bolted to the inlet manifold. its a bunch of brown wires form memory. also make sure the ground that goes from engine to chassis is in good order too.

ahh look someone posted in my thread! and i didnt see it! Thanks for the kind words mr phil-keto. updates on the car! well i have been spending a large amount of cash on the following.... -ae86 struts with a sleeve welded on -brand new king spring 6kg coilover springs -brand new KYB excel G shock inserts (suit MR2 i think) -brand new slotted ae86 vented rotors (234mm) -reconditioned jap ae86 calipers (shiny shiny) -brand new wheel bearings -brand new rubber brake hoses -new QFM brake pads (the $80 ones) -40mm no name brand RCA's this has taken me about 6months to peice together. big thanks to GSL rally sport, the bloke has some fantastic prices, and is great to deal with. highly recomend!!!! here are some pretty pics: now to finish this off i need: -machine up spacer between top hat and shock (currently i have a few washes in there, but want to get a solid peice made up) -machine up a spacer for the bottom of the shock in the tub, i think i need about 15-20mm, i have a nice chunk of alloy here waiting to be machined. -need to get some tube things that go between the rack end and the tie rod end (see the WTB section of this forum...) -buy new tie rod ends -cut bolts to size that hold backing plates to the strut (you can see htey are miles to long in the pic....) this setup has cost me a packet...but it will be legal...and i will lose the rediculous amount of track on the front end of this car, so i can get some nice wheels from munji mods!!! oh and if anyone wants to buy me s13 front end....enquire within.

nah don't drill it while its on the engine! you will fill your engine with brass filings! you may be able to gently tap it out, by using something sharp and hitting it around the edge. and unscrewing it slowly. I'm not sure how tight its going to be, since its a tapered thread it may be quite tight... if that doesnt work you can to take that whole fitting off (take off the oil filter too) and then attack it with something to try and unscrew it on the work bench etc. maybe one of those easy out things.

i would definately look into EFI for any boosted applications. and especially since its your daily, you want to keep it as reliable as possible. (not saying carby's arent reliable, but EFI is just so gooooodd) maybe pick up a cheap 2nd hand ecu, or build yourself a megasquirt.