Banjo

My 1974 (48 yo) KE30 2 door Rolla has a tow bar, & often gets asked to tow a load of green waste to the local dump. This weekend was such an occasion, & after dropping off the second load, I started the car up, as normal; without issues, & slowly drove out of the dump. As I drove up a slight rise towards the entrance gates, I heard a scratching/grating noise, emanating from under the car. I assumed I had picked some scrap up under the car, that was caught; & was grating on the asphalt. As soon as I exited the dump, I pulled onto the side of the road, left the engine running & quickly looked under the car. Nothing at all ! I then lifted the bonnet, & the engine was still running, but making some strange noises, from what I thought; was it's "inner workings". What could it be ? I have had 4K motors, that with failed timing chain tensioners, or with low oil pressure at idle; resulting in a "stretched" timing chain "slapping" against the inner side of the timing chain cover. However, my 4K-U has a dual chain, so it wasn't that. As I was only 3klms from home, & the trailer was now empty, I decided to head for home slowly, & investigate, once I was in arms reach of a selection of tools. Within 1/2 a klm, the engine started to deteriorate in performance, & a quick look at the voltage reading, on a dash guage; indicted that the battery was about 8-11V, & fluctuating. Eventually, I knew it wasn't going to make it home, so pulled over, turned the engine off, & again lifted the bonnet. Nothing was obvious, so I tried to restart the car. Dead with the battery voltage around 7-8 volt. So a quick call to my wife, She arrives with her 2009 Corolla, & I tow the KE30 + trailer home, as a trio, with firm instructions that She will have to push the brake pedal harder, as there is now no vacuum assistance. My head is now taking in all I have observed in the last hour, & trying to determine what could it be ? I have read & heard of a situation, where a starter motor pinion; will not disengaged after the car starts, & the engine then drives the starter motor at rotational speeds, it was never designed for. Although I had read about this particular scenario, I had never ever experienced it, in all my years with playing, & working with Rollas. As any other possibility, involved internal engine investigation, I decided to remove the starter, as it is an external component, & relatively easy to remove, although not without some fiddling. With starter motor removed, & looking quite normal; with the pinion retracted, I decided to put it in in the bench vice, & power it up, & see if it worked. Here is a good schematic, from the K Series "Yellow Bible". Only difference, with my KE30, is that there is a "starting relay", between the ignition switch, & terminal 50, to prevent the ignition barrel having to handle the high current of the pull -in solenoid. Notice, once the pull-in coil does it's job, & closes the "main contacts" to power the starter motor; those main contacts also s/c the pull-in coil, & the hold-in coil is only left with it's lower current requirement With a 12V battery on the bench, I connected same to the starter motor with some heavy electrical wiring, as you would use with 10-15A power points. I turned to pick up a piece of wire to temporarily active the solenoid, but as I did so, I could smell something, & saw the connecting wires I had just connected, starting to melt their insultation. Grabbed a side cutters, & cut one of the wires. The plot had just thickened, but at least my first guess of the starter motor, being the culprit, looked like it was a reasonable one. To my knowledge, there are basically two types of starter motor arrangement, where the starter motor is a direct drive onto the flywheel ring gear. One type has a scroll on the starter output shaft, so as it initially spins, it "throws the pinion towards the flywheel ring gear", which engages & turns & "cranks" the engine. The second type, which is used in our Corollas, is a solenoid, on top of the starter motor, which via a lever movement, engages the pinion gear with the ring gears on the flywheel. Just as the engagement takes place a large switch on the solenoid, is closed & feeds 12 volts to the starter motor proper. This system is preferred as the lightly spring loaded pinion, will always be engaged before the starter begins rotating. I then remove the starter motor solenoid, & it looks & feels OK. As it needs a big soldering iron, to fully dissemble it, I put it aside, & remove the cap from the end of the now upturned starter in the bench vice. As the cover came off, my eyes were met with devastation like I have never seen before. The internals of the starter motor, had been pulverized, by the starter motor never disengaging from the flywheel ring gear; & being driven at speeds it was never designed for. I suspect, that the contacts at the end of the solenoid, that switch power to the starter, have welded, & not released when the engine started. I'll find out later this afternoon, when I get home, & unsolder the solenoid, & inspect. There are a couple of other suspects like the ignition barrel, where the spring that returns the key switch from "Start", to "Run", has broken. There is also a "start relay', energized by the ignition barrel key start position, that switches power to the starter motor solenoid. However after removing, the starter motor, & finding the above pictured; a quick test with a test light on the output of the starter solenoid relay, indicated these items are both working perfectly. So my question is; is this a problem others have suffered, or heard of, as I have certainly not ever heard of it on these pages in the nearly 20 years I've been enjoying the threads on this forum ? Cheers Banjo

Fully Agree ! Now, don't get me wrong, the 3k in it's day, was a great engine. There was a speedway series once, where the engines were limited to 1200cc, & I've seen some amazing pictures of 3K engines that produced amazing results, but that was at very high revs, & after a lot of expensive modifications. A fully balance & engineered 3k, could produce twice the number of revs, Toyota designed it for. However; as the yanks have always said "There's no substitute for cu inches (CCs)" I drove an early Corolla for 18 months once, with a 3K engine, & frankly it wouldn't pull the top off a custard. Alright on the flat, if you got it wound up, but as soon a hill appeared, it was not up to it at all. If your Rolla is a "daily drive", then keep a lookout for a 4K-C, which was probably the most popular 4K produced. If you need more torque, then consider a 5K, which has always been my favorite. There was a 4K-U, which nearly produced almost as much HP, as a 5K, but they are a bit hard to find. Even with a 4K engine, there are a lot of things you can do, to make it a more enjoyable drive, but at least with a 4K, you are at a much better "starting point", than with your 3K. Cheers Banjo

The Weber 32/36 looks like this . . . which looks to me, very similar to yours, from what I can see. Does it have an adaptor plate underneath it, to match it to the original K Series inlet manifold ? The other thing to check with the Weber, is what size main & idling jets have been fitted, to this particular Weber. I've got little or no experience with the Weber adaption to K Series motors; but the ones I have seen on-line, were side draft Webers; & I think there was a special inlet manifold for them for K series motors. There maybe someone on here, that has this setup, & can advise what size jets they fitted. In theory, you should be able to fit the carby either way around. It really comes down at to which side of the carby, the accelerator cable is fitted. The K Series cable pulls, to open the throttle, but in the case of the Weber 32/36 you have, it looks like it would have to push to open; so they have turned it 180 degrees. Hope that makes sense. A year or so ago, I took the fuel tank out of my 1974 2 door KE30, with the intention of fitting an in tank high pressure fuel pump, for EFI, & also building a better fuel guage sensor. What I was not prepared for, was how much "crud" builds up in the bottom of the tank over 40+ years. I went to great lengths to clean it out with acid, & other techniques, & it may well be, a good idea, to remove your tank, & do similar, if necessary. One thing I have learnt over the years; that those suction fuel pumps right up at the engine; are not real good at pulling fuel over such a long run, especially if the fuel filter is a bit blocked, or the lines are a bit choked, or have a tiny leak in them. For this reason, lots of people seal off the fuel pump hole on the side of the block, & fit an electric pump, down near the tank, so the lines from the back to the front of the car; are under pressure, rather than vacuum. Cheers Banjo

Hi Guvna, You are totally correct ! There are four (4) of the total of six (6) manifold studs, that clamp/hold down both inlet manifold, & exhaust manifold or extractor assembly. It is imperative if you are going to achieve good manifold/head seals, that not only are the mating surfaces in total alignment, but that the the outer sides are also level, so that the extra thick washers used underneath the four (4) manifold nuts clamping these "shared" joints are parallel to the head manifold surface; so equal pressure is exerted on both inlet & extractor tabs. It may require a bit of filling, on the outer sides of the tabs, to achieve the same thickness, but is very worth while, in the long run. Also support the extractor exhaust header, to the engine / bellhousing joint area, so that any movement of the exhaust system, is not transmitted to the head/manifold joint area. Another suggestion is to now add a bug in your exhaust extractor header, assembly, just beyond where the four pipes all join. This allows the addition of a O2 sensor later on, if you really get into the K Series engine, & want to either, just monitor your air fuel ratios, or get really excited, & want to go EFI. The bungs come with a stopper, so even if you don't get an O2 sensor now; when you do, you don't have to remove the exhaust system to add a sensing point. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, One of the reasons I had not purchased a pair of bonnet "lock downs", is that the ones with the pins, eventually go rusty, as the plating is not very thick. I did buy some on ebay this week, & found some quick release "push type" ones, that actually come in colours, so they do not stand out, visually. They will be here in a week or so, so I'll let you know, how they work out. About $ 16.00 for a pair with free delivery. Has anyone else on here used this particular type on their bonnets before ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Guvna, The K series engines of that era, came standard with an "Aisan" carby. ASIAN is usually in the casting, on the outside of the bowl area. The accelerator cable is usually on the side of the carby, closest to the rear of the engine. I'd suggest the carby on your engine is sourced from elsewhere, as it is on the opposite side to the Aisan carby. Asian Carby on K series Motor below Has the engine ever been running, in it's current form, or did you buy it, as an uncompleted/finished project ? If you remove the starter motor, & take a couple of close up pics of your carby; someone on Rollaclub, might be able to visually identify the currently fitted carby. If the engine has been stripped & rebuilt by someone else, & never run; it would be very wise to check everything out, timing wise, before you start cranking it, indefinitely, trying to start it. Bear in mind that the K Series engine, requires the dissy to be fitted for the oil pump to work. One of the first tests I would do, on an "unknown" engine, is to put oil in it; & with all spark plugs removed, crank it over, & check there is oil pressure. If OK, then you can then start to work through ignition & fuel functions. A simple test of basic ignition operation, is to remove all spark plugs; connect one plug to the HV output of the coil; ground the base of the spark plug; then turn the engine over. Without any compression, because the spark plugs are removed, the engine will turn over relatively quickly, & if you have a timing light, you can do a basic check of timing as one in every four (4) flashes should illuminate the TDC markings on the crankshaft pulley. Alternatively, connect the spark plug to the output on the dissy cap, for no: 1 spark plug. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, That's a bummer ! Actually, when I posted you last night, after seeing the glorious engine bay of your KE-70, I meant to add a note at the end, to see how you went with your front brake calipers. Had you stripped a caliper down, & removed the piston, before ordering them ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, Oh, I wished my engine bay was as clean as yours. Very nice ! Love the alloy radiator. Makes a big difference, doesn't it. Do you have an electric radiator fan, in there behind the radiator ? By all means put the battery in the boot, but make sure you get the fattest, thickest cable you can find, so you don't suffer voltage drop, to the starter, at the very time you need it most. Did you fit the two (2) bonnet lockdowns on the front ? I once had a bonnet fly up at high speed, years ago, which didn't break the windscreen, but did put a crease in the bonnet. Scary episode ! It wasn't a Toyota. I vowed, I'd always fit some front bonnet lock downs to my Rolla, but still haven't got around to it. You have jerked my memory of that time, & I'll have a look on ebay tomorrow. Thanks ! Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard Gav ! Your little KE30 looks pretty straight. As long as you have a good rust free body, then the rest is "all fun". Nice area to work on it. I can see a few late nights coming up, in there. I'm presuming the engine is a 4K-C ? Make sure you get hold of the one piece aftermarket inlet & exhaust manifold, & a new set of manifold studs, which are stock standard, & readily available. If someone has had the cam out, & it hasn't been run since, then it would be a very good idea, to check the valve timing before trying to start it. If someone previously hasn't fitted the timing chain perfectly, then the valve & ignition timing could well be out. Remove the sparkplugs, rocker cover, & dissy. You could attach a timing disc to the front crank shaft pulley, & line it up with a marker at TDC No: 1 cylinder. Tthen turn the engine over clockwise ever so slowly, with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, & take a note of when the No: 1 cylinder valves start to open & finish closing. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74148-one-piece-manifold-gasket-k-series/ Cheers Banjo

Not to mention the "two tone" leather seats ! This is a deluxe model I'll remind you. Love the "string steering". Very direct; no rack & pinion or linkages required. Instant response. Cheers Banjo

https://www.news.com.au/technology/mans-1993-toyota-corolla-car-hits-two-million-kilometre-milestone/news-story/2f09951cdcac40d225a088a907366ae6 Saw this story in the past week, on a news feed, & was instantly skeptical. However, when you do the maths, it is quite possible, if my maths are right ? The Corolla was a 1993 model. It tipped the 2000,000 klm mark recently, in 2022. That's 29 years of service. If you divide 2 million klms by 29 years, you get approximately, 69Klms per year. Assuming the car was only driven on works days, of which there are 261 per year, the car would have travelled 265 klms per day. Assuming this Corolla's driver was actually at the wheel, 6 hours a day, then each hour it would travel 44 klms, which is quite feasible. This guy must love driving, as He has 3,000,000 klms under his accelerator foot. And all this with regular service; although I noted the 20 off replacement cam toothed timing belts, in it's life; so someone was worried about the "interference engine design", & that regular replacement of the belt would certainly been necessary, if it was ever the attain the 2 million klms. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, See you've switched to the KE70 "slanty nose" Cowrolla ! I like the two tone colour scheme. Should be very cheap, to keep the tyres in good nick ! Looks like it would be real easy to get underneath, when doing an oil change. No need for hoist or ramps at all. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, That is one very sweet looking flat nose KE70 ! It looks to be in immaculate condition. Is it a low mileage original, or has the car been reco'd at some point in time? Love to see some more pics, & maybe some interior a shots. You've done well ! Cheers Banjo

That's a little bit cheaper, than if you took your two (2) brake slave cylinders, to a specialist here in Australia, for reconditioning. Last time I checked, which was about 2-3 years ago, they were quoting locally here, about $ 130.00 to recondition two (2) front brake slave cylinders. Have you actually taken the suspect cylinder off & had a look inside ? I've experienced the very same issue you describe previously; & after after 20 minutes with some wet & dry fine emery paper, & a new set of rubbers only, the problem was solved. P.S. Good idea to completely replace the complete brake fluid in the braking system at the same time. Over time, the brake fluid "absorbs" moisture, & that is what causes the corrosion, & gumming issues, from what I've personally seen, over the years. Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Russell, I'd take them both off & have a quick look inside the slave cylinders. You might find it is cheaper to just buy a new ones on line, than it is to have a brake specialist reco them. Cheers Banjo

Hi Ian, You were lucky ! I have a V6 Camry, & years ago we were on our way to holidays at Crescent Head, near Kempsey. Trailer behind, 2 kids on board, wife & everything needed for 2 weeks hols. Pulled up at Coffs for a early tea, before the last run to Crescent Head. All back in the Camry, & the key will not turn/unlock at all. No spare key to try. So I remove the barrel, tie the key to the ignition switch barrel, so the computer thinks the key is inserted, & short the appropriate wires, so it will start & run. Off we go, & got there safely. Next morning rang a locksmith in Port Macquarie. He was out fishing, & wasn't prepared to come up to Crescent Head to fix it. So I drove to Port, & met him in a park. He fitted all new plates inside the barrel, which were severely worn. He advised Toyota had a bad batch of plate material back in the late 90s that affected lots of Hiluxs & Camrys. Never an issue after that, since I had the new plates fitted. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, PM sent ! Cheers Banjo

Nope Keith ! But just as good. I have two pieces of soft wood that I sandwich the valve stem in the bench vice, with the valve sticking out of the vice horizontally. Then with the hand drill, & a brass drill circular wire brush, I clean both sides of the valve poppet head, cleaning all soot & carbon, without scratching the valve seat. Works for me. Col, you wouldn't believe what was the matter with this B & S engine. This is the very first time, I've ever done anything at all to the engine, besides oil & filter changes. The previous run of the mower was about a 4 hour stint; as with all the rain in S.E. Qld., you can actually watch the grass grow. I started the engine up a week later, & it was backfiring & lacked power. Felt like it was running on one cylinder. Checked the plugs & they were very "sooty". Cleaned them, but problem persisted. Suspected carby, with stuck needle & seat; but no; all good. Checked compression. Very low on one cylinder. Removed rocker covers. One cylinder has a bent pushrod, & the other pushrod had fallen out altogether, & was lying there; also bent. Serious, me thinks. What I couldn't get over intially; was that one push rod was steel, & one was aluminium. Something strange, so off to Dr Google. What I read in the next 30 mins, blew me away. When these air cooled engines get really hot, the aluminium head metal expands quicker than the steel valve guide. This results in the valve guide moving upwards, to the point where the spring cannot be fully compressed, & bends the push rod. B & S knew about this "design fault" & made one of the push rods (intake) aluminium, so it would be sacrifical, & prevent the whole engine destroying itself. Still can't believe it. All it needed to stop this from happening, was to put a very small shoulder on the outer, at the bottom of the valve guide; & machine a location for that shoulder/step, in the head. What ? Like this one . . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKEUBW7M3F8 Still shaking my head ! Cheers Banjo

Unless you are in "the trade", Doing a decoke & valve grind is not something, you do every week. I can go several years between such exercises. However, at the weekend, I had need to carry out same. Not on a Corolla; but on my trusty Greenfield ride on mower, fitted with with a B&S V twin 22Hp air cooled engine. It did cross my my mind, however, that this engine, which I can lift with two hands, puts out over 50% of the HP, that my olde 4K engine does; an engine you need a chain block to lift. I have all the gear to do a valve grind, but as with anything, not used often; things like the rubber suction caps on the end of the lapping tools have gone a bit hard, & not as flexible as they used to be. In addition to that, the end of the valve, where you "stick" the suction cap, can be a bit pitted, & the vacuum technique used to keep the valve & tool as one, doesn't work anymore. So I could've headed for SCA to grab a new one, but came up with an idea, that worked brilliantly. I always carry a couple of rolls of double side adhesive tape. There is one I have which comes from Bunnings, which is about 23mm in width, & very thick at about 2mm. I cut a bit off, & suck it to the end of the valve. Trimmed it so that it didn't exceed the diameter of the valve; & then with the valve, in the head, pressed the lapping tool rubber cup, hard down on the exposed double sided tape. Worked absolutely perfectly. Only one problem, When I opened my little olde cylinder of valve grinding pastes (coarse & fine) I found they were both very dry & in lumps. Could've needed a trip to SCA, but I tried to revive the hardened lumps, & it worked perfectly. Put a few lumps in an upturned lid of an jam jar, or similar. Add a little bit of sewing machine "light" oil, (also referred to 3 In 1 oil), to the hardened lumps, & at the same time, break up the lumps with a small screwdriver, or sharp object. Didn't quite get the job finished, as a big thunderstorm came, with threatening hail, & it was time to get the vehicles under cover. Oh well, there's always next weekend ! Cheers Banjo

I recently lost my key ring in Jaycar, while browsing, with my KE30 ignition key on it. Luckily, I’ve always kept a spare key screwed to the sub floor, for just such a situation. However, it left me with just the one key. I don't see them very often, but did see a pair of genuine Toyota KE series key blanks, out of Malaysia, on ebay a couple of weeks ago, so ordered them. There was always the risk they could be Chinese copies, but I was prepared to accept that risk; as, after all, it is only a key blank. I was surprised that they arrived so soon, & they are perfect. If they are a copy; then they are a bloody good copy. The Toyota Motors & Japanese Toyota symbol, are exactly like my remaining original one, I have. So I head off to my local friendly "olde school" locksmith this afternoon, to have him cut the two blanks, using my sole remaining original, olde & worn ignition key, as a template. "Sure, I can do that" the locksmith advised; but you "didn't have to buy blanks, as I have plenty of them". Actually, about 200 off. He pulled one out to show me, & they certainly were blanks; as they had no Toyota symbol or logo on them. At least my blanks would look like they were original, after they had been cut. He explained to me, that the reason, He carried so many of these blanks; was that all early Toyota models used the exact same key blank. However, he was quick to point out, that the barrels were in all cases, a little bit different, depending on what Toyota type & model of vehicle it was. He declined to use my original key as a master, to cut the two new blanks. "Too worn, to result in a good job", was the comment. "I'll just use the keys number !" "Hold on", I said; "my car is going on 50 years olde (actually 48), & you are telling me, there is a profile kept, & it is computerized ?" "Yep !" OK, so on closer inspection, there is a tiny number, "KXXXX" stamped into my original Toyota ignition key. So He punches this number into his computerized machine, & a minute so later, I have two brand new keys. Hold on, me thinks. There were no computers around when my Corolla was manufactured; or if there was, they were crude early versions, long before mass data storage. My friendly locksmith explains that there was always records kept of key codes, but they were paper based key profile records, of which registered locksmiths, could obtain. However, over the years, all those early key code profiles have been digitised, & are now simply a computer file, which is loaded into the machine, so it has as many profiles that are available, worldwide. Apparently updates come out 2-3 times a year. So home I go, & I've just tried them out, & they work perfectly, although a little tight. He had warned me, this would probably be the case, & suggested initially putting a coating of light oil (sewing machine oil) on the key shafts, before inserting them. So I live & learn; & now happy, that ignition key losses, or wearing, will not be an issue, in the near future. Cheers Banjo

Ok ! It appears that your TE27 dimensions for mounting the front cross member, maybe a tiny bit smaller than those on the KE3X & KE70 series. The drawing indicates the dimension across the engine bay, between the rails is 71.6 cm, where the KE30 appears to 71.8 c. (2 mm difference) The distance between the holes on each side, in the "chassis rail", appear to be a little bit wider apart than my KE30. (13.5cm as opposed to 12.5 cm) When you got hold of your Starlet cross member; did you drop it into the chassis of your KE27, & see if the mounting holes lined up ? I'm presuming, that the only reason, you cut the rack 7 pinion mounts from the Starlet cross member, was that the Starlet cross member, was not a drop-in option, in your TE27 ? I'll see if I can find a body dimension drawing on the net for the KE3X series. I did have a KE55 coupe chassis here, but it had bad rust in it, in the back pillars, so I've cut it up, & it has gone, so I can't measure it. I'm pretty sure the KE35 & KE-55 shared the same front cross member. I did come across this drawing on the net from the Toyota Chassis repair manual, for KE & TE Series. It advises the dimensions for the KE series, between the rails is 71.8cm, & the distance between the holes is 12.5 cm, which is what I measured on my cross member last night. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Sebastian, Excellent ! It's morning tea time here in Australia, on Tuesday, 22nd, so will have a look at your dimensioned drawings. Cheers Banjo

Hi Sebastian, So I went to the shed last night, & had a look at the cross member I have on one of the two (2) engine test beds I've made. Luckily, it still has the rack & pinion clamps in place. So from what I can measure, without removing the engine, the centre to centre distance between chassis mounting bolts for the front cross member is 75cm. Could you measure this distance for me on your TE27, as it should be easy, with nothing in the engine bay at present. I'd be very interested to find out if the Corolla various KE models & the Starlet, used the same mounting point dimensions. The other useful dimension would be the distance between the bolt holes on each side, of your Starlet front cross member. My KE30 dimension is 12.5cm, where I have the question mark below. These are the two (2) dimensions, from your Starlet front cross member, I would like to have. I did find this old pic on the ClubK site, which appears to indicate the K2, K3, & KP front cross member dimensions across the enginge bay are indentical ? Many thanks ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Sebastian, Lovely bench ! Love your work ! You've just pushed "my button" here, as that is a project, I've, for a long time, wanted to try on my KE30 2 door sedan. That is; convert the steering to rack & pinion, or maybe even power assisted ??? My question is whether the Starlet front cross member "chassis" mounting bolt centre to centre measurement, matches exactly, the chassis rail to rail measurement on your TE27 ? Did Toyota standardise this measurement for all the early Corolla's, so front cross members are "interchangeable ? I actually bought a KE70 front cross member, from someone on Rollaclub, years ago for $ 20. I just wanted it to mount on a a couple of timber sleepers, so I could build a simple engine test bed. It was from a KE70. Now the KE70 cross member differed from other KE front cross members, as the KE70 had rack & pinion steering; so had the rack & pinion brackets already there. I'll have to go out in the garage later, & measure it up, which might be a bit difficult as it has an engine mounted on it. Altezzaclub, should be able to provide an answer, as He is the source of all info regarding KE70s, on this forum. With it all jigged up there, on the bench, were you able to measure any steering geometry angles etc. ? Steering geometry, & the ramifications of changing it, is a whole subject all by itself. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry Cheers Banjo

Lumpy cams rarely provide the luxury of a smooth steady idle. What sort of electronic ignition dizzy have you got ? Is it one of the 5K Toyota ones, or an aftermarket electronic module inside a 3K or 4K dizzy, that simply replaces the points ? We can certainly assist you, but a few pics posted here of your setup, including inside & outside the dizzy, & any vacuum lines to the Webbers & manifold, would help. A picture usually tells more than a thousand words. More pics, & more details, the answer will be easier, & quicker will be to you sorting this out. P.S. Any idea what the grind on the lumpy cams are ? Is it a 4K engine block ? Cheers Banjo