Banjo

Hi Tyson, Glad you got to the bottom of that issue. If you still want to go down the solid lifter path, read carefully the links I gave you, earlier in this thread. If the geometry of new lifters; push rods, rocker shaft pedestal height & rocker face sweep coverage is not just right, then you will not get the results you want. https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K_Hydraulic_To_Solid_Lifter_Conversion Here are a list of all the Toyota vehicles that use the solid lifter (13751-61020) , that should fit your 5K motor. What was the specific reason, you wanted solid lifters for ? Are you trying to get to a very high rev range. I've had two 5K engines with hydraulic lifters in them, over the years; & never had an ounce of trouble with them. Cheers Banjo

It still gets down to below zero, just west of Brisbane, in Winter. Even on the carby engines, the choke; besides closing off the intake opening, to a degree; also increased the idle back stop, to increase idle speed. Ah ! But one day, when this bloody pandemic is over, I might drive down to Orange to visit you; & if that's in the "colder" months of the year, I'll definitely need automatic idling control, west of the great divide ! However, although there are a few "feedback" control systems in a modern automobile, the idle control, in cold weather; is probably the most visible one to the average driver. I happen to love feedback systems, & their control, especially when it is differentially proportional. (as it approaches it's final target rpm, then is slows up & approaches that point very slowly) In Winter you start the car up on a cold morning, & instantly it starts (enriched mixture), & the idling sits at say 1250 - 1300 rpm. You leave in the drive while, locking the house & garage door, & by the time you are ready to leave, 10 minutes later, it has reached it's warm idling temp of 900-950 rpm. I love just sitting there watching the rev counter, & seeing the idling speed slowly creeping down to it's final set speed, as the temperature increases. However, idling bypass valves, by their nature are quite small, & because they are not in use for most of the time, they do "gum up". I always pull them off my Camry & wife's 2009 Corolla, & completely clean them when they get their yearly service. P.S. The other thing I love about automatic idling control, is when you disconnect the ECU electrically, & it "forgets/loses" all it's settings. When you take it for a drive after reconnecting the battery, it initially runs at an elevated idle speed, but "learns"; & after a short run, is back to the original initial cold start idle speed. I note you can still buy an aftermarket TPS for the 7K engine on ebay for just under $ 60 (Aust) Cheers Banjo

I'd be very interested if someone knows of another throttle body that will fit, or could be adapted to the 7K EFI intake plenum. I have one here on a 4K engine, that I have been experimenting with over the years, by converting it to EFI, & several different ignition systems. The trouble with the one I have is, that the "idling bypass valve" is stuffed, & the price for a replacement, is ridiculous. I was going the just block up all the idling arteries, & fit an external one; around the butterfly, but if I could find a whole late model throttle body one from another Toyota engine, with a very similar inside diameter, then that might be a better & more successful option, in the long term. Cheers Banjo

Yeh Dave ! This is fantastic to follow. Can't get over the dedication. Most dedicated guy I've come across, when most of us on here, would not take on a project like that, with so much "cancer". I take my hat off to him. I'll certainly be following this thread. I must have been living under a rock, as I've never heard of using dry ice to lift sound deadening material in olde cars. In my defence, I've never had to lift any, & never researched it. There a number of utube videos on the net, & it certainly works well, in floor wells, but a bit harder on vertical areas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FqkxgcjRQQ Cheers Banjo

Like Altezzaclub says, it's a difficult job, & very frustrating with the cross member in the way. I did it quite a few years ago, & it is relatively easy to remove the cross member, & then have full access, to the sump. All you have to do is hold the engine up, as with the front cross member removed, there are no front engine mount points. The following pictures really describe how I did it, without going into a lot of description. Cheers Banjo

Only one word for this project resto. . . Incredible ! It does indeed look "handsome", even in it's current format. Where did you procure the carbon fibre hood/bonnet ? How much did it cost ? Have you had a chance to measure the weight difference between the original steel hood & the carbon fibre one ? These olde Rollas were over built in those days, where there was no computer aided design. Their power to weight ratio, was abysmal, by todays standards. There are two ways of improving the power to weight ratio. Increase the power, & lower the weight. A bit of both, is a very good compromise. The balance would also be the relative cost of each method, of improving the power to weight ratio. I'm in awe of your dedication. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tyson, Interesting, that you are now going to look into the oil filter as being a possible source of your oil pressure issues, there was a couple of good discussion about this subject on this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73606-addressing-low-oil-pressure/?tab=comments#comment-711455 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76876-toyota-3k-engine-problem/?tab=comments#comment-723121 Not all oil filters are born equal. The filter on the K Series engine, is fitted upside down, when compared to most cars. Filters can appear equal on the outside but there are non return, & bypass valves often inside, depending on the make. I use an oil filter on my 4K & 5K engines, that looks like a standard Corolla KE filter, but is actually used on a Mercedes Benz car. I think it is mentioned in the link before. The filter number has 423 in it. the Australian version made by Ryco is Z423. Cheers Banjo

Hi Hasitha, Good luck with that one. Even if there was a computer program to communicate with the ECU, you would probably need an olde DOS based PC, to run it. I think those olde ECUs, were pretty basic, & just indicated faults & diagnostics in the ECU, by blinking the engine warning light a number of times, where you counted the blinks, & the referred to a manual. I found an olde 7KE manual on the net, which you might care to read, & see if that helps you. https://www.scribd.com/document/540871784/Buku-Manual-Toyota-7ke-Kijang-Kapsul-18-Efi-Compress Cheers Banjo

Hi Tyson, Is the grub screw brass or steel ? By stripped, I guess you mean the allen key socket, won't grip to allow you to turn it. It could well have been fitted with some sealant on the thread. Try drilling out the centre of the grub screw with a small drill, then increase in drill size, but not that you damage the thread. Once you have a hole right through, squirt some penetration oil in, & let it sit overnight. Then try to remove it with an appropriate sized "easy-out". Cheers Banjo

"That blue KE70is so cool" Sure is ! Love how they have utilised the original engine mounts & fitted the "orange rail" that supports everything associated with the conversion. I looked up the website for the Autolibre organisation. Interesting read ! Came across this one on there ! EV conversion car, with a wind turbine generator on the roof, to reclaim the energy you have used to go forward, to recharge the batteries. Sorry ! Very low efficiency me thinks ! I'd be a bit worried about the bits of string or rope, tying it to the roof rails ? P.S. Wouldn't like to be driving behind this car ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Sebestian, When I read your comment, "Thanks for all the kind words, indeed it is a big project ahead", I couldn't help thinking this might be another project Binky ! I'm really impressed with your determination to see this through, Mate ! For those reading this thread, who have never heard of a Cleco pin, below is a link that explains them well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DcNvt9_O3Q Plenty available on ebay, here in Australia. Cleco also make a side clamp one for sheet metal & the like. I will be watching this thread with interest. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tyson, I think I've found your answer P.S. By "oil loss issue" they really mean oil pressure loss. Cheers Banjo

Hi Tyson, Wish you'd mentioned your engine has had a solid lifter conversion. If it has not been done properly, that's why you have compression issues. You will need to change push rods, rocker assembly, & possibly the head. Have a read on these links here on this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K_Hydraulic_To_Solid_Lifter_Conversion Here is another useful link. http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=14957#pid105004 Hope that helps. P.S. That dissy still has the original factory pin holding the gear to the dissy shaft. The only way to remove the factory pin, is to drill it out, & then most people replace with an appropriate sized "roll pin". Cheers Banjo

Hi Sebastion, Loving your build, & determination to get this Rolla running again. Noticed that you have air conditioning, & you didn't even have to pay for it ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tyson, Hopefully, whoever assembled your 5K, did it wet, & there are is plenty of oil on main & conrod bearing surfaces. As long as the plugs are out, there should not be any damage. Squirt a bit of oil down the spark plug bores to prevent any initial dry running of the piston rings in the bore, whist you are turning it over, & testing. So you've removed the oil pump & spun it somehow, & it is delivering oil, so lets assume the oil pump is OK. We can therefore assume, that the over pressure bypass valve has been fitted to the oil pump correctly. Next you need to prove that the oil pump is turning, when the engine is rotated. Sounds like a silly statement, but the oil pump in a 5K is powered by the camshaft, & there are various keyways & roll pins that lock sprockets & gears to their respective shafts. The easiest way is is to remove the distributor (that actually drives the oil pump in a 5K), to turn the engine over, & see down the distributor hole in the block, whether, the knurled camshaft gear on the camshaft is turning. If not, then It is probably an issue with the crank or camshaft sprockets on the front of the engine. There are a couple of critical keyways on the camshaft & crankshaft, that may have been accidentally omitted. If that proves OK, then re-insert the distributor, making sure that the gear on the bottom of the dissy shaft has had it's roll pin inserted. Roll Pin If all that still doesn't turn up something, then you've got me stumped. Let's know what you find. Cheers Banjo

Hey Col . . . . don't forget . . . Rome wasn't built in a day, & neither is Josh's Evo, it appears; or Project Binky's Mini, for that matter. Comment: I start to go to sleep watching Blinky episodes these days. "Rome wasn't built in a day" is an adage attesting to the need for time, to create great things. It is the usual English translation of a medieval French phrase, Rome ne fu[t] pas faite toute en un jour, from about 1190 AD" Anyway, I'm loving this Orange Cake thread, when we finally get to it. Cheers Banjo

Love the story Ian ! It's like "life in the day of a Corolla Owner" Remind me not to buy a TAG towbar. Their on-line add, says "Precision Engineered". Made in Australia. Well, actually; Queensland, so I have to apologize for that, being a Queenslander myself. P.S. Maybe the guy that welded it that day, had COVID coming on ? Covid makes your eyesight crossed a bit, I hear. Keep up the great story. It certainly looks good already, with the new wheels. P.S. Looking at it on the bright side ! It's not as bad as this poor chap in the UK, that I came across recently. https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/horror-story-modified-towbar/ Cheers Banjo

Thanks for the pics of your drive. Nice looking Rolla, with that big "fish mouth" grill, which looks like it would be ideal to suck lots of air into a turbo. Tell us a bit more about your ride. I presume the C stands for "California catalytic converter", which Californian cars were lumped with ? Have you still got the 5 speed transmission therein ? Any other things you have done to it ? What year model is that ? Lowering it can provide benefits, ride wise, but will change the appearance & stance somewhat, depending on what you like. I'm presuming it has a 2TC engine under the bonnet. Pics please ! Looking to hearing back from you. I had an Australian equivalent model which out here was called a KE55, & didn't have a single overhead cam motor. We got the old pushrod 4KC motor, where the C still stood for California, I believe. Cheers Banjo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n2DPGZQSS0 Enjoy Banjo

I have had a 1982 corolla for a few years, I have had the engine restored, repaired the body paint, repaired the interior upholstery, and I have gotten the accessories and other parts such as the lights of the tracks, courtesies, rear and front lights, but the air conditioning system does not work not even the fan. Could you share with me the electrical diagram of this te70 / 72, to be able to repair this system of the car? I have a wiring diagram for a KE70, but it might help. If you would like a copy, please send me your email address. If my Spanish is poor, blame the Google translator! Greetings who sent me the electrical diagram of a Toyota Corolla ke70. [email protected]

Are You enquiring about front & rear shocks, or just one end ? Are you still using the original KE30 struts at the front, or have you upgraded to the larger diameter (50mm) struts from a Corona/Celica/Cressida ? Have you measured the fully compressed & hanging lengths of travel of the existing shock absorber points ? There is a real science to matching shock absorbers travel to suspension travel. Quality of shocks is usually roughly proportional, to what you are prepared to pay. Adjustable & gas ones are the most expensive, but I guess you don't really want to go to that length, if it is purely for "street use". Are you using coil-overs on the front suspension, or have you just cut the coil springs ? There is plenty of good info regarding this subject on the internet. Here is a typical one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDzAvByevw Cheers Banjo

I had this problem a couple of years ago. Head off to your nearest Clarke Rubber store, with the dimensions you need, & a 150mm steel ruler. Amazing the range of rubber bungs & things those guys carry. Be very surprised, if you can't find something, have decent there, that will plug any body work holes you need to blank, in the engine bay area. Cheers Banjo

Call in an interest; call it a passion; but what we do in restoring & keeping older cars going, is either extending somethings regarded useful life, or providing a connection to the past, in a world where everything is changing so quickly. Just before the start of the 19th century, cars (horseless carriages) were so dangerous that a man had to walk in front of them with a red flag ! I went to our local council waste station a couple of weekends ago, to drop off some green waste. I drove past a great big waste bin, that was full to the top, with "electronic waste"; (mainly desktop computers from what I could see) This constant movement forward, at such a pace, is hard for some people to cope with, & creates a need for some people to "collect olde things" However, like the right to repair, there are "circumstances" where this rush to move forward, creates real life problems. A couple of years ago, I had a tenant in a rental house. He asked could he run a small business in the garage, fixing computers, as He had found a local market needed such, with lots of small accounts & law firms, around His area. I agreed, & He did well. One day, (knowing I dabbled in electronics), He asked whether I had any olde 4.25 inch floppy disk drives, in my collection of things. My first question was; what would you possibly need a 4.25" floppy drive for ? Answer: A local solicitor, had a client that had died. There was no record of a last will & testament. They discovered he had a "safe deposit box. After going through the procedures, the safe deposit box, was opened. There inside was a 4.25" floppy disk, in a sleeve with "Will" scribbled on the outside. Hence the problem, of how do you read it. Hence the need for 4.25" floppy drive, but also the need for some software, to read it, as it was produced using a very early version of a Lotus editor, called AmiPro, or something similar. Long & the short of it was; that my tennant discovered, this was not an isolated case, in his locale; so He advertised to all his clients, & soon was well known for this particular service. To my way of thinking, the only guys who got it right were the Eygptians, who "wrote", on clay tablets; put them in a pyramid; & we can still read them clearly 2000+ years later. Good luck with finding a KE30 workshop manual, 2000 years hence. Cheers Banjo

I've been following this subject in the media, for the past year or so, with interest, as it resonates strongly with me; as I assume it does, with other fellow RollaClubers. It appears the talk is finally going to come to an end, & there could be some legislation coming forward shortly. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-12-02/right-to-repair-productivity-commission/100668064 https://www.abc.net.au/news/rural/2018-03-11/farmers-spearhead-right-to-repair-fight/9535730 Most of us on RollaClub love tinkering with our older cars mechanically. There is heaps of information, how to fix anything mechanically; whether it be in comprehensive manuals, Doctor Google, or advice from fellow members. However, when it comes to "electrical matters", there is a unknown for many. I'm the first to admit, that looking at the wiring diagram of a early Toyota's manual, with lines crossing everywhere, can be daunting to many. However, when broken down, that wiring diagram is very, very simple. Each individual circuit in the car starts with the battery positive terminal. It then passes through fuses, switches, lights, sensors, guages etc. & then back to the negative terminal of the battery. In fact, our early Toyotas, are super simple, when it comes to electrical. Enter electronics ! Whole new game. My first KE had no electronics in it at all. Even the regulator for the alternator, had a vibrating relay contact, in the regulator control box. I once discovered that the guages on the dashboard, which use a regulated 7-8 VDC, so they read correctly, even if the battery voltage was low; used a set of vibrating contacts, to produce the 7-8V supply. Later model KE Series Rollas, used alternators with solid state regulators, as Toyota also did; for the dash board guages 7-8 Volt supply. However, the modern Toyota car is full of electronics, controlling anything & everything. That's where the issues start, to my way of thinking. In the old days, your average NRMA, or RACQ roadside assist man, could usually get you going again, if the fault was electrical. Now days, if the fault is in this realm, it is invariably time to call for the tilt truck. So the electronics; & the microprocessors provide great leaps & bounds, in safety, efficiency, emissions, performance etc. This is all aimed ultimately, (so they saw) at a future time, when we will all sit back, & the car with autonomously take us to our destination. So am I a purist ? No. I have to admit I have introduced electronics, into my 1974 KE30. 1. Removed original AM radio & fitted a modern one, that allows me to answer & use my phone with BlueTooth. 2. Added a wire transmitter between steering wheel & horn relay, to get rid of that annoying spring loaded horn contact, behind the steering wheel. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75658-ke3055-horn-steering-wheel-contact-ring/?tab=comments#comment-720517 3. An electronic ignition system, to get rid of the poor performance of points orientated ignition systems, as they age. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comments Now don't get me wrong; modern electronics in automobiles are generally very, very reliable. However, When the car stops unexpectedly, on the side of a remote road, & you don't have a clue where to start looking, it can be a problem. I'm a great believer in the K.I.S.S. principle, when it comes to auto electrics & electronics. I've only had to call a tilt truck once in my whole life. It was on an interstate trip, on a back road, in a late model Camry, at the time. The dealers couldn't even find the fault. It got back to my home, in Brisbane, & it took me a whole weekend, to find the issue. I put my findings on an automotive website, & was surprised to find others who had experienced the same issue, but could never find the cause of the issue. It was a Toyota design mistake. Love to hear others thoughts on this subject. Cheers Banjo

Hi Luke, I tend to agree with Keith very much on this one. A newly, fully or partly reconditioned engine's, "first hours of waking life", can be crucial to it'd longevity, as a reliable engine. It's all about engine temperature, tolerances, & oil viscosity. My dash temp & oil guage are the most important instruments in my Rolla. There are some really good general rules. Never ever start "revving the guts" out of a newly started motor, once it kicks over for the first time. It is human nature, & an expression, of human emotion, & sense of achievement, to want to "give it a burl", but it can be counter productive in the long run. Let it idle, & even cover the radiator, to get it up to temperature, as quickly as possible. Try not to load the engine for at least 30 minutes. Never put a very high viscosity oil in a newly refurbed engine initially. After several hours of running; & only when the engine is definitely at operating temperature; you should drain the oil & change the filter. You'd be surprised how much initial "wearing" in of metalic surfaces, takes place during that "running in" period. Same suggestion for the coolant system. However, that can be done after a good week of driving. Take hoses off & really drain it; not just using the tap at the bottom of the radiator. You'd be surprised at the little bits of crud & gasket cement & the like that comes out. Keith suggests watching that temperature guage. This is really important. These engines are designed to run between 80-90 deg C. Taxi's get such incredible long lives out of their engines, because they rarely ever get cold; sometimes running 16 - 24 hours a day, & just changing drivers at change of shift. I may be olde school, but I still take my wife's Corolla out of the garage each morning, & leave it idling in the driveway for 10-12 minutes, before she leaves for the daily commute, to work. This is really important in winter. I've heard it said, by professionals, that more wear takes place in an engine in the first couple of kilometres driven each day, than the wear that takes place for the complete rest of the day's driving. I have a good friend that lives in the Yukon, up near the polar areas, north of Canada, where it is extremely cold, & there is permafrost. They have permanent electric heaters in the sumps of their vehicles, & they plug them into the power point in the garage every night, so the engine can actually turn over in the morning, & drive away initially, without any substantial engine lubricant protection, because the high pressure bypass valve opens, & dumps a substantial amount of oil straight back into the sump. P.S. Regarding your issue with cylinder number 4, you might like to take a look & read these long threads on here, where a few of us, have shared our thoughts, on this perennial issue with K series engines. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/page/8/?tab=comments#comment-713644 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77718-radiatorcooling-help/#comments Cheers Banjo