Banjo

Welcome aboard ! What country are you located in ? If you provide that information, maybe someone else, in your part of the world, who follows or frequents this website, may be able to assist you. How long since your Dad's old Rolla was last driven ? Have you got any pictures of it, that you could post on here ? I have a 1974 KE30 2 door, that looks like this. Cheers Banjo

Hey Si, So do you suggest I paint it instead ? Maybe not as "intense" as this guy ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvTnLxw2REE P.S. I'd hate to see him do a video, on how to clean your windscreen. Cheers Banjo

Hi Mark, Welcome aboard ! Is the car registered & road worthy, or is that to come ? A picture tells a thousand words, so when you are after something in particular, then a picture assists, as to where it goes on the car. Would love to see some pics of your car. Deluxe Corolla coupes of that vintage, are becoming very hard to find, in good condition. Which are of Queensland, are you located ? P.S. There is a wrecker down in NSW, in Minto or Campbelltown, that another member on here found a few parts parts, a year or so ago. Apparently, this wrecker grabs any KE20/25s he can get hold of. I'll see if I came find the name of the wrecker for you. Cheers Banjo

Hi Stu, Thanks for that ! I bought one off ebay, & it arrived today. ebay listing for blanking plate Works perfectly. The mounting stud/bolt centres are exactly the same, so there must be some standards, between mechanical fuel pump manufacturers. The plate is a little bit bigger, but I left the original pump "spacer block" off, & just bolted it directly up to the block, with gasket that came with the blanking plate. Looks great ! It is now the shiniest part of the engine, so maybe I'll have to get some metal polish, from SCA, & spend an hour of the "rocker cover", so this blanking plate doesn't feel alone. Cheers Banjo

According to the ebay listing, this distributor, will fit every K series motor ever made, between 1966 & 1984. They list both sedans & commercial Toyota vehicles, as this being suitable for. From previous experience, we know that the distributor advance curve for the commercial vehicles was different to those for the car, as their lower rev/torque requirements, demanded it. So originating from China perhaps, it's anyone's guess as to what the advance curve actually is, unless, we got hold of one & spun it up, & measured it. I have a couple of the original ND "electronic" distributors, that were traditionally only supplied with 5K engines, which were again, traditionally, only fitted to "commercial" Toyota vehicles. These dizzies, used a VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor, which triggered an internal electronic ignitor. They were a nice package, that I have used on several Rollas, over the years. They were however, not designed to switch power to "low ohms", performance type ignition coils, which a few people have found out, . . . . . . the hard way. They have been popular, for mods, because of the small dizzy case size, which is very much like the early 3K ND "points" dizzy. The Bosch dizzy, of the same era, was so much bigger in diameter. They make a good basis for a camshaft trigger signal for anyone attempting an ECU upgrade or mod. Most of the olde 3K ND dizzies, are pretty worn out. At least with this ebay dizzy, you get new mechanicals. The advance bob weights & springs, in this application, are redundant, and it is important, that they be all removed, & the upper & lower shafts locked/welded together, to provide a stable fixed trigger point. After all, it is the ECU, that now produces the far more programable & ideal advance/retard curve. I've used one of these in my Rollas, successfully, in that application, over several years. I do however, like the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade to the 3K ND dizzy. VR sensors don't perform very well at low revs, whereas, the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade, provides instant starts. I have however, carried one of the old ND electronic dizzies around in the boot, in case my electronic ECU broke down completely, & I needed to just pop this dizzy in the block, & connect it to the coil, to get home. I have never had to use it. Cheers Banjo

"Good I have a project of a 4k engine I want to convert it into efi I wanted to know what engine is that emission that they used to get the parts? And build my project" The EFI parts come from a Toyota 7K engine, that were mainly used in Toyota vans, & light trucks. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stu, You didn't spoil the surprise. The auto electrician, contacted Andrew late yesterday, & gave him the good news (about only good news coming out of Melbourne atm) Andrew contacted me last night, & he is very happy & appreciative, to have his engine running, after many, many months. I was only too happy to be part of a group, including yourself, who have helped Andrew eventually realise his vision. This episode of the ignition issues, Andrew faced using an electronic dizzy as a simple trigger input to an aftermarket ECU, reminds me of a longer discussion, regarding this topic, we all had on here, 2-3 years ago, when Graeme (Big G), was sick of changing the points in his Girls Rolla. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comments Cheers Banjo

Well, the guys in Melbourne trying to sort this out, "guessed", that the black wire with the white stripe was positive, & they were right ! Engine now running ! Cheers Banjo

Just trying to help a member in Melbourne, who is fitting one of these ebay dizzies to a 5K. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Distributor-Fit-for-Toyota-3K-4K-5K-Corolla-KE70-Liteace-Starlet-Daihatsu-Delta/122423257624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The picture in the ebay posting, indicates the two (2) wires coming out of the dizzy are red & black, (which you would assume were +12v & -ve coil terminal respectively) However, the dizzy as supplied, has 1 x brown wire, & 1 x black wire, with a white stripe on it. Has anyone purchased one of these, & has worked out, or has info, as to which wire colour is positive, & which is negative ? Cheers Banjo

Glad that you got that all sorted, rune, & got it motoring ! Cheers Banjo

Best advice I've recently read ! https://www.mta.org.nz/motoring-tips/91-or-95-or-98-octane-petrol-which-to-use/ Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stuart ! I'll look into it. I knew someone else would have come this same issue previously. Cheers Banjo

While getting this 5K all cleaned up, for the Speeduino setup, I pulled off the mechanical fuel pump, that I had experimented with, as a camshaft sync pulse source. I replaced it with a blanking plate, I had previously made up out of sheet metal. However, it is not thick enough, & after about 20 minutes running, there was a trickle of oil seeping out of it. I've not got the resources, nor the time to make one out of something thicker, 4/5/6mm steel plate. I've looked on the net but can't find anyone, selling these blanking plates for the Toyota K series engine. I seem to remember years ago, I came across a website in Europe, (maybe Holland or Finland ?) that made a number of performance accessories for the 3K/4K/5K engines, but I couldn't find them. I remember they had a blanking plate. Lynx here in Australia sell various blanking plates, but not one for the K Series. I did notice, that there is one listed that is suitable for the Toyota FJ40 & FJ60 Landcruiser series, that looks like the right shape. The K series engine, stud mounting centre dimension, for the fuel pump, is 44mm. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR-Toyota-FJ40-FJ60-Series-F-2F-engine-Fuel-Pump-Blank-off-Plate-/252824883703 Does anyone know, where you can get one of these, or whether, I am lucky enough that the Landcruiser one may fit. Maybe someone has one, they are prepared to sell ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Rune, If the white wire is getting hot & melting, when trying to starting the engine, then that would indicate that the white wire is carrying all or part of the very high current the starter motor pulls during cranking. There are three (3) cables that carry this high current. 1. The unfused "heavy duty cable", connected directly between the battery +ve terminal, & the starter motor. 2. The earth/ground/chassis heavy cable between the engine block, & the chassis of the car 3. The earth/ground/chassis heavy duty cable, between the battery -ve terminal, & the chassis of the car. Check all of these, & their connections in particular, & you should find the source of your issue. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Here's a few pics of the solid bracket I built, to mount the Honda Civic camshaft position sensor, which works extremely well, with the 3K/4K/5K toothed trigger wheel. The bracket, simply bolts onto the mounting points on the block, used for attaching the A/C compressor mounting bracket. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/37840- The Honda Civic sensor is available on ebay, at a reasonable price. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camshaft-Position-Sensor-37840-RJH-006-Fits-For-2001-2005-Honda-Civic-1-7L-AU/154005829655?hash=item23db767817:g:iM8AAOSwoLFej-3Q&frcectupt=true The plate onto which the Honda Hall sensor is attached, is made of 4mm thick aluminium plate, so there is no ferrous material near the sensor, that could diminish the magnetic field between the toothed wheel & sensor. The 2 x 6mm bolts clamping this aluminium plate to the bracket, are slightly slotted, so the gap between the tooth tip, & sensor face can be easily adjusted, with a feeler guage, to 0.5mm gap. If anyone wants to get hold of a Honda camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, & do something similar to above, then the three wire connection details for these sensors, can be found, at the following link. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1 I've had the engine running, & have a very stable & clean stream of trigger pulses coming from the sensor. The Hall Effect sensor visible in the very last pic, on the timing chain cover, is so I can feed a camshaft position pulse to the Speeduino, so the 5K can be sequentially controlled. Cheers Banjo

You will need a special "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe, so that the O2 sensor, can screw in. Some O2 sensors come with the bung, others, you have to buy them separately. Fit, just beyond where the 4 into 1 pipes join together, for best results. P.S. If you use a 2 inch meter for the AFR reading from the O2 sensor, did you know it will usually fit in the dash, in place of the clock. I've got a 2 inch meter in there, & it fitted fine. Thanks for the pic of your dash mod. Given me a couple of ideas. Cheers Banjo

Hi Michael, So you should be ! That is a beautiful clean job you've done on your KE35. Thanks for the pics. I did notice that you haven't hooked up your heater hoses, on the rear firewall, . . . . . but then I noticed your N.T. number plates, & that you are probably in Darwin, so that made perfect sense. Would love a close up picture & details of your dash, where you appear to have replaced the whole "radio section" & put in oil pressure & water temp guages ? If that exhaust header, I can just see, is a 4 into 1 extractor, I would suggest taking up Altezzaclub's suggestion of drilling a hole where all four runners join, & fitting a "bung", so you can fit an O2 sensor. That will really assist, in getting your jetting on the DCOE 45 just right. It may be an optical illusion, but the water pump pulley mounting bolts, look quite close to the thermo-fan frame ? As for wheels, I'd suggest definitely going to 14 inch, & using an offset, so that you can run something like a 205, without, having to fit a guard lip, or flare, to cover a "protruding" tyre. 14 inch wheels, also provide the opportunity in the future, to upgrade your front rotors & calipers, to something much bigger. If you haven't already changed the dizzy points to an electronic type, then this engine is a prime example of one, which should have that upgraded. Keep up the good works, & keep us informed of how it all goes. Cheers Banjo

Can be done in the car, but painful. Pulling the sump off, is not something carried out often. When you do have it off, it's a very good idea to check all the bearings, & also the oil pump & it's strainer. The cross member is the big obstruction, so best way is to . . . . "hold the engine up", from above, & remove the cross member altogether. Been there, done that ! P.S. Note I've changed the studs on the alloy timing chain cover for bolts. Cheers Banjo

Is the sump retained with . . . . threaded studs, with nuts & washers only ? bolts & washers only ? Combination of both of above ?

So with the tooth wheel sorted, it's time to check & calibrate all the other inputs, the Speeduino needs to run. Coolant Temperature: I built a coolant sensor, using a precision NTC thermistor probe, I have, with an R25 value of 10K ohms. All of the temp sender units, I've collected over the years, are single wire ones, using the engine block & the chassis earthing system, for the return of the "resistance" circuit. I wanted to make all the sensors feeding into the Speeduino, to be two (2) wire, so that there is only one earthing point for them all, back within the Speeduino PCB itself. I grabbed an old sensor, & drilled out all the sensor element, until it was a clean bare brass shell. Then I inserted the insulated thermistor probe, & glued it in with Aradite. Then to calibrate in for use with the Speeduino. The standard "bias" resistor fitted to the Speeduino PCB has a value of 2490 ohms. That works out well, as the 10K ohm thermistor, has resistance values of 20 deg C (19.9) = 12.566K ohms 60 deg C (59.9) = 2.5K ohm 100 deg C (100.5) = 0.669K ohm So the mid point of the range we are wanting the readings to be most accurate, is 60 deg C, where the resistance of 2.5K ohm, is almost exactly the same as the bias resistor, at 2.49K ohm. That should provide good accuracy. I plugged all the three temp points & their corresponding ohm values, into the settings, in TS, & burnt it to the Speeduino processor. As the coolant measurement, will be in the 80-95 deg C range, most of the time, I decided to check it with the only standard high temperature, I have handy, which is boiling water. Off to the kitchen to "borrow" my wife's electric kettle. I suspended the probe inside, & it read 20 deg C, which was the ambient temp here this morning. Then I turned on the kettle & watched the temperature rise through the range in Tuner Studio, until it stopped at 100 deg C, just as it boiled. So fitted it to the engine, at the highest point of the water coolant system. Next sensor will be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which I've just pulled off my 7K EFO setup. P.S. I had been concerned that I was going to have to reroute the coolant drain cock, located directly below the water pump, whose removal was just blocked by the addition of the Toothed Wheel. However, I discovered if I rotated the engine, so that the "missing tooth", was opposite the end of the drain cock, it was possible to remove the drain cock, with a socket. Cheers Banjo

The toothed trigger wheel, can basically be mounted in four different rotational positions, which places the "missing tooth" section of the wheel, in four different positions, relative to TDC. All ECU's settings, have a "crank angle trigger" setting, that can usually be adjusted anywhere from 0-360 deg C, if the toothed wheel is on the crankshaft. However, most tuners suggest placing it, at around 70 - 90 deg ATDC, so it has plenty of time to do all the calculations, before the next firing. I placed my tooth wheel, in a position, I determined, to be appropriate, then rotated the crank, until the toothed wheel "missing tooth" section was level with the Hall sensor. The ECU recognises the first tooth after the missing tooth section, as the synch point. In my case, it is the rising edge of that first tooth. I then when around to the other end of the engine, where I have a large accurate degree wheel on the flywheel, & the angle the crank was in, was 102 deg ATDC. Very happy with that ! Very happy with the whole trigger wheel in general. Suggest, if anyone is interested, in obtaining a trigger wheel for their K series engine, then send Danel a PM, as he posted earlier in this thread, on page 1. So next task is to start testing the other various sensor inputs on the Speeduino. P.S. Anyone else here on Rollaclub forum, playing or running a Speeduino ECU at present ? Cheers Banjo

Found some manifold studs late yesterday, that were exactly the correct size & length, for attaching the 36:1 toothed wheel, to the 5K crankshaft pulley. 8mm M1.25 38mm long. The pic below, shows them fitted with some thread locker, in the pulley threads. Four (4) off 35mm OD thick 1/2" washers, Araldited together, made a perfect 9-10mm deep spacer, between the back of the toothed wheel, & the original washer face on the crankshaft pulley. That creates a gap of about 10mm between, between the back edge of the toothed wheel, & the crankshaft pulley V belt edge flange. It is important, that there is no ferrous material, very close to the teeth on the trigger wheel, if the best signal is to be produced from the sensor. This is not an issue, when this wheel is used, with a 3K or 4K crankshaft pulley, as they are only have a 110mm O.D., & the teeth are well clear from any surrounding ferrous metal, of the pulley. I found a website for for a USA manufacturer of trigger wheels, that suggests a clearance gap between the end of the tooth & the face of the Hall sensor, of 3-5 thou, per inch of diameter of the wheel. For this particular wheel, that works out about 0.46mm - 0.76mm clearance. So I assembled it all, & adjusted the sensor position, to one tooth, with a 0.5mm feeler guage. I then rotated the wheel, with the feeler across the face of the sensor, & it neither got looser or tighter, so I'm very happy with the eccentricity of the trigger wheel. Thanks Danel ! The bracket that the Hall sensor is attached to, should not be made of ferrous material, so the magnetic flux to the sensor, is not diverted or "drained", by nearby ferrous material. I have made my bracket out of a thick piece of thick aluminium, which you can spot in the pic above. This trigger wheel setup, is critical, as to whether the result is a flawless & reliable EFI performance or not, so I am making sure, at this point, that it is as good as I can get it. After it is assembled, I'll crank the engine over, & view the sensor pulse output, with an oscilloscope, to see how clean the pulses are. Cheers Banjo

Had to think about that one Pete ! I've never had an after market oil cooler, so have never considered that it could be fitted upside down. I gather, you are referring to drain back, (after engine shut down) , of the oil in the cooler, seeping back into the sump, if the cooler is mounted above the height of the sump, which most are. So the top hose on the oil cooler, should be connected to the "sandwich plate connection" under the oil filter, that comes from the oil pump outlet ? Cheers Banjo

So the 36:1 toothed trigger wheel for the 4K engine arrived, & is now fitted to my 5K engine. The 36:1 toothed wheel will fit 3K, 4K, & 5K crankshaft pulleys, as the mounting points are identical on each. The 3K & 4K crankshaft pullies, are about 110mm O.D., whereas the 5K crankshaft pully is about 145mm O.D. The toothed wheel is 155mm O.D. so sits nicely on the 5K pulley, with the teeth clear of the pulley edge, as seen in the above pic. The toothed wheel, will bolt straight up to the 3K & 4K pullies, but has to be spaced on the 5K pulley. My 5K crankshaft pulley is dished, to take additional pullies, & has a harmonic balancer built into it, so the toothed wheel will crush the harmonic rubber, if bolted up, without a spacer. The centre bolt also needs a spacer behind the toothed wheel, as there is a gap there to the crankshaft pulley, of about14-15mm. Likewise, the 4 off 8mm x 1.25M mounting bolts, will need to be about 35mm long, & need spacer tubes behind the toothed wheel. I'm actually going to use manifold studs, that happen do be available, in that exact size. Makes it a lot easier to assembly, than with bolts, & spacers behind the toothed wheel. This 36:1 toothed trigger wheel, is laser cut from 6mm thick plate, rather than being a machined one, which cost a lot more, to manufacture. Considering it is laser cut, it is of good quality. I set it up with a piece of clamped metal near the teeth, & measured the eccentricity, & lateral run-out, & it was much less than 1mm out. The best & easiest point, to mount the Hall tooth sensor, is off the K engine block A.C. bracket mounting points, just around the corner. You could make a fancy one, that was mounted off the "timing chain cover", but at this stage, that is a lot of work, & will have to wait until another day, when the timing chain cover is off for another reason. Last night, I temporarily hooked up a Honda Hall effect sensor, I got on ebay. I used one of these previously, for counting the starter teeth on the flywheel, & it worked well. I cranked the engine over, without spark plugs, & was greeted with a clean stream of pulses from the Hall sensor, via an opto-coupler & an LED, on a little board, that also produces a 0-5 volt square wave pulse train, for the Speeduino ECU input. Here is a good general video about crank & cam toothed wheel sensors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW0ENqcxNSg Now I know it all works, I'll take the toothed wheel off, & paint it, as being bare mild steel, it won't take long to rust, in our Qld. weather. Cheers Banjo

Trigger wheel arrived, so testing soon ! Cheers Banjo