Banjo

Mad Europeans ! But I want to see it in action. Think this entrant, makes an entrance, about half way through this video. Mad ! Mad ! Mad ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxlFvwsLAXM Cheers Banjo

Here is a "feel good" story on the ABC website today, with a few thoughts, as to why we collect & restore olde vehicles. Psychologically, it is apparently good for us. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-09-09/historic-classic-vintage-cars-used-as-company-vehicles-in-darwin/12637120 The related stories below this article, are also a good read. In one of them, there is mention made of the original QANTAS hanger in Darwin, where a group of enthusiasts, restore anything vehicle or machinery wise. It is open to the public, & one of the best Saturdays, I have ever spent. if you ever get a chance to visit, DO SO ! https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attraction_Review-g255066-d8744578-Reviews-1934_Qantas_Hangar-Darwin_Top_End_Northern_Territory.html#photos;aggregationId=101&albumid=101&filter=7 Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, I purchased a Faria fuel guage from ebay, a while back. Faria 52mm Fuel Guage I was using it, to play around with on the bench. It has a nice blue LED background illumination. With 12 volt connected to it, 240 ohms = Empty & 33 ohms = full. I imagine the SASS fuel guage will be similar. I like the classic guage appearance, & am having second thoughts, about the LED Bar-O-Graph one I've built. I was thinking of feeding a "time proportional" grounded signal into the sensor terminal, to get it to read correctly, for each of the multi-point enclosed fuel sender's switch points, that I've had so much success with. Off memory, I think I tried the Faria guage, with my fuel sender, in the KE30, & it read backwards. Not sure if you are going to find a guage a bit larger in diameter than 52mm. There are some that combine multiple read-outs, in one guage, & they are about 100mm in dia. You will probably come across the same problem, all of us on Rollaclub have regarding fuel guage sender units. They all wear out, & genuine replacement sender units are extremely hard to find. That's why my quest, was to come up, with something that didn't require the original sender unit at all. Let me know how you go. If your existing level sender unit in the KE55 tank is cactus, then you may have to look at other alternatives, as I had to. P.S. Came across this for sales on ebay Australia today. Genuine NOS KE20 Nippon Denso Fuel sensor never used. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE20-Fuel-Tank-Fuel-Gauge-Sender-Unit-NOS/324288243082?hash=item4b8115e58a:g:W78AAOSw69dfU3Un Cheers Banjo

I notice Episode 32 of Project Binky is out ! They still haven't got the Toyota motor in the Mini as yet ! All I want to hear, is it start up for the first time ! Looks like we'll still have to wait a while; . . . . . . . . apparently, in the next Episode 33, they are going to paint the Mini's body. And I thought my long term projects were slow. At the rate these guys are going, by the time the car is finished, the pair of them will be in a nursing home, & Project Binky, will be straight off to an auto museum somewhere in the UK. At least with OverHaulin on Channel 9 atm, you see a whole car get completely rebuilt in a week, from the chassis up, in a 30 minute episode. P.S. They'll probably just get it finished, then decide to go electric, & start all over again. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Does the guage in your KE55 not work at all; is intermittent; or just reads inaccurately ? If it is not working at all, it may simply be that the voltage regulator, on the rear of the dash cluster, has "given up the ghost" Taking out the fuel sender, can be a pain in the arse, as in the KE-55, the sender unit, is mounted in the centre / top of the tank, & the tank has to come out, to extract the fuel sender unit. To check the sender, without removing unit, trace the wire from the sender down to "connection point" into the forward harness, just near the rear drivers side wheel arch. Note the colour of the wire in the forward harness. Pick up this wire, behind the plastic side panel, adjacent to the drivers right foot. Disconnect it. Connect a wire to the wire disconnected wire, going to the rear of the car. Hook it up to a multimeter on "ohms/resistance" range, with the other probe connected to a good ground. That should read the resistance of the fuel sender. If it reads zero, then there is a short circuit. If it reads open circuit, then the sender is open circuit. If it reads between say 10 ohms & 200 ohms, then it is working. Leave the meter on & fill up the tank, & see if it works. Saves a lot of mucking around, taking the tank out, if it finishes up, not being necessary. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Somewhere around 3 ohm to 110-120 ohms, off memory. Search this forum, as there are a number of posts regarding this matter. I had the same problem as you, & gave away the idea of using a substitute sender unit. Some sender units go low - hi ohms. Others go hi - low ohms. Dependents on whether vehicle it came from originated in Europe or the USA. Different standards. You might like to have a read of this thread, I put together. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76685-cleaning-inside-of-fuel-tank/ Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Have you tried these guys in Castle Hill, in NSW ? https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/performance/hoses-kits/silicone-hoses Cheers Banjo

Stunning with that lovely blue sky behind it. I just had a look from the top side, as the live webcams there are updated every 5 minutes. Must be very cold up there. Looks like icicles are hanging over the lens of the camera ? P.S. Unfortunately, I can't spot your house from there ! Cheers Banjo

That's fantastic ! Well done. Had to look up on the Tassie map to see where Meehan & Tangara were. I'd forgotten how clear the air is down there. Believe most of those runs might have a bit of the "white stuff" on them this morning ! Will be talking to a business colleague in Longford today, where I believe they got a heap of snow overnight ! Cheers Banjo

"trout & a mote" We've got the great white & the great barrier reef ! & the big Pineapple ! Free entry, up until Saturday 8th August !

What am I getting myself into here ? https://www.theactivetimes.com/healthy-living/10-signs-you-may-have-obsessive-compulsive-disorder One of the ten (10) primary signs, you have OCD is . . . . . . . . "You scrub, clean, polish, vacuum, dust, and shine, but it’s still not enough. Over-cleaning is a sign of OCD. A person may be compulsively cleaning because they are trying to prevent spreading or being harmed, or because contamination may make them uncomfortable. Either way, individuals become so obsessed with cleanliness that it may start to interfere with their everyday lives." No, I'm not going there; although, I do remember, I used to polish the chrome handle bars on my push bike a lot, when I was a kid. What am I getting myself into here ? Could the affliction, be coming back/returning ? Better see the doctor tomorrow. Hope Medibank covers it ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, I think I've just worked out, what Si was on about with his warning. Once you get started on this polishing thing, it becomes an obsession, to remove every little micro-scratch, until you can see your own reflection in it. Was in Bunnings yesterday, but finest grit wet & dry in stock was 1200 grit. Grabbed a few sheets. Off to SCA then, as I had some credits, which were just about to run out. Grabbed some metal polish. Last night, for 40 minutes, I rubbed one end of the cover, & then polished it, & the difference was amazing. Unfortunately, every time I've used my mobile phone this morning, I had to revert to my pin number for entry, as my finger print is no longer recognised ! "It's a slippery slope" indeed. I've just instructed myself, to not even look at the "timing chain cover". 🥵 Cheers Banjo

Queenland Stuart ! . . . . . . . . But you better be quick. we are locking our borders on Saturday 8th August. Cheers Banjo

Hi Csongor, What a lovely story, & a very original KE30, in what appears to be, in remarkable condition. I'm just loving the roof rack.. They were in vogue 30-50 years ago. I remember, they also used to produce them with 4 or 6 great big suction caps, that took the weight on the roof corners. (that's in the days, when car bodies were much heavier, & used thicker steel sheet) My KE30 manual states that the front disk rotors were 218mm in diameter, & had a new thickness of 13mm. Machining limit was 12mm, & run out limit was 0.15mm. Your picture of the brake rotor, certainly appears to show it as being fairly thin. In Australia, we can still buy on line solid rotors for around AUD 140 per pair, & aftermarket vented & grooved/dimpled ones for around AUD 240 per pair. It would appear, that the car spent all those "deep sleep dream 14 years" in a shed or barn somewhere. I can't imagine the body would be in such good condition, if it was exposed to the elements. My guess is, that when you provide us with a picture under the bonnet, that the engine, is stock standard, & totally untouched. Have you tried to start it, or had it running ? I love those utube videos, of people starting old trucks, tractors, & cars, that have laid idle for 40 odd years. Good luck, & keep us updated, on your progress, & ask us any questions at all. There are lots of members on here, that know every inch of your car, & will chip in with advice. Cheers Banjo

Hi Si, Light brush with some aluminium cleaning acid. 30 minute rub, with one of those wet & dry thin sponge blocks from Bunnings. Finally, 20 minutes, with some good olde Brasso, & a polishing rag. That will do me ! My engine was never intended for Concourse d'Elegance. Cheers Banjo

Well the last of the external sensors got fitted to the 5K engine today, before the Speeduino, gets attached, & fired up. It's been working on the bench very well. The last sensor to fit was the TPS (throttle Position sensor) On the 7KEFI throttle body, that is easy, as there is one built in, as standard. However, I intend to do the Speeduino testing in two stages. First will be ignition only, & then I'll add the injectors & EFI manifold. Was wondering how I could attach a TPS sensor to a 5K carby throttle shaft, considering, it has no provisions for whatsoever. This is only temporary, but it did work quite well. A simple steel bar attached to the inlet manifold. An old TPS, with broken mounting lugs glued to a separate bar, so I could line up the centre of the carby throttle shaft perfectly, with the TPS centre point. A little home-made adaptor spigot, that screws onto the end of the throttle shaft, which already has a thread & nut. The TPS movement, is very light, so there is very little force transmitted through the adaptor. Hooked the Speeduino up, & with the laptop,, running TunerStudio, & calibrated the TPS so that it's travel from idle to full throttle, reads 0-100% exactly. Oh, engines are so easy to work on, when out of the car ! So roll it back into the garage, & hopefully, by this time next week, I'll have my little engine test stand bench there, hosting the Speeduino in it's enclosure. Cheers Banjo

Stuart & I received a text from Andrew, late yesterday, advising he has got his Suzuki with 5K engine with EFI conversion back home, & going fine. I'd call that a Win ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Rob, Unfortunately, that is the way the world has gone. The reason many of us on this forum, are here; is because we like to keep older things going. One of the specific problems, with "ewaste" is that electronic components & PCBs in particular, cannot be repaired, even if you haven't retired, or have the ability to do so. 1. Many of the silicon chips become obsolete, so quickly these days, that new replacement, upgraded/enhanced chips are not pin for pin compatible. 2. Most high volume PCBs are assembled & soldered by automatic machines these days. The miniaturized parts are very difficult to replace by hand. On top of that, the mark up on spare parts, is just astronomical. Several 100% is not uncommon, in most industries. I've had a habit of "salvaging" any good parts from something that has eventually, "had it day". It's amazing how many times you get to use them. Unfortunately, you have to build another shed eventually, to store all the stuff, so the whole exercise, isn't really a cost saving ! The really annoying thing is; When you finally decide to "turf" something, you've stored for years . . . . . . . the week after you turfed it, you come across a situation, where you need that particular item, you "turfed". Such is Life ! Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard ! What country are you located in ? If you provide that information, maybe someone else, in your part of the world, who follows or frequents this website, may be able to assist you. How long since your Dad's old Rolla was last driven ? Have you got any pictures of it, that you could post on here ? I have a 1974 KE30 2 door, that looks like this. Cheers Banjo

Hey Si, So do you suggest I paint it instead ? Maybe not as "intense" as this guy ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvTnLxw2REE P.S. I'd hate to see him do a video, on how to clean your windscreen. Cheers Banjo

Hi Mark, Welcome aboard ! Is the car registered & road worthy, or is that to come ? A picture tells a thousand words, so when you are after something in particular, then a picture assists, as to where it goes on the car. Would love to see some pics of your car. Deluxe Corolla coupes of that vintage, are becoming very hard to find, in good condition. Which are of Queensland, are you located ? P.S. There is a wrecker down in NSW, in Minto or Campbelltown, that another member on here found a few parts parts, a year or so ago. Apparently, this wrecker grabs any KE20/25s he can get hold of. I'll see if I came find the name of the wrecker for you. Cheers Banjo

Hi Stu, Thanks for that ! I bought one off ebay, & it arrived today. ebay listing for blanking plate Works perfectly. The mounting stud/bolt centres are exactly the same, so there must be some standards, between mechanical fuel pump manufacturers. The plate is a little bit bigger, but I left the original pump "spacer block" off, & just bolted it directly up to the block, with gasket that came with the blanking plate. Looks great ! It is now the shiniest part of the engine, so maybe I'll have to get some metal polish, from SCA, & spend an hour of the "rocker cover", so this blanking plate doesn't feel alone. Cheers Banjo

According to the ebay listing, this distributor, will fit every K series motor ever made, between 1966 & 1984. They list both sedans & commercial Toyota vehicles, as this being suitable for. From previous experience, we know that the distributor advance curve for the commercial vehicles was different to those for the car, as their lower rev/torque requirements, demanded it. So originating from China perhaps, it's anyone's guess as to what the advance curve actually is, unless, we got hold of one & spun it up, & measured it. I have a couple of the original ND "electronic" distributors, that were traditionally only supplied with 5K engines, which were again, traditionally, only fitted to "commercial" Toyota vehicles. These dizzies, used a VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor, which triggered an internal electronic ignitor. They were a nice package, that I have used on several Rollas, over the years. They were however, not designed to switch power to "low ohms", performance type ignition coils, which a few people have found out, . . . . . . the hard way. They have been popular, for mods, because of the small dizzy case size, which is very much like the early 3K ND "points" dizzy. The Bosch dizzy, of the same era, was so much bigger in diameter. They make a good basis for a camshaft trigger signal for anyone attempting an ECU upgrade or mod. Most of the olde 3K ND dizzies, are pretty worn out. At least with this ebay dizzy, you get new mechanicals. The advance bob weights & springs, in this application, are redundant, and it is important, that they be all removed, & the upper & lower shafts locked/welded together, to provide a stable fixed trigger point. After all, it is the ECU, that now produces the far more programable & ideal advance/retard curve. I've used one of these in my Rollas, successfully, in that application, over several years. I do however, like the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade to the 3K ND dizzy. VR sensors don't perform very well at low revs, whereas, the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade, provides instant starts. I have however, carried one of the old ND electronic dizzies around in the boot, in case my electronic ECU broke down completely, & I needed to just pop this dizzy in the block, & connect it to the coil, to get home. I have never had to use it. Cheers Banjo

"Good I have a project of a 4k engine I want to convert it into efi I wanted to know what engine is that emission that they used to get the parts? And build my project" The EFI parts come from a Toyota 7K engine, that were mainly used in Toyota vans, & light trucks. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stu, You didn't spoil the surprise. The auto electrician, contacted Andrew late yesterday, & gave him the good news (about only good news coming out of Melbourne atm) Andrew contacted me last night, & he is very happy & appreciative, to have his engine running, after many, many months. I was only too happy to be part of a group, including yourself, who have helped Andrew eventually realise his vision. This episode of the ignition issues, Andrew faced using an electronic dizzy as a simple trigger input to an aftermarket ECU, reminds me of a longer discussion, regarding this topic, we all had on here, 2-3 years ago, when Graeme (Big G), was sick of changing the points in his Girls Rolla. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comments Cheers Banjo