Banjo

Hi Colin, I think I've just worked out, what Si was on about with his warning. Once you get started on this polishing thing, it becomes an obsession, to remove every little micro-scratch, until you can see your own reflection in it. Was in Bunnings yesterday, but finest grit wet & dry in stock was 1200 grit. Grabbed a few sheets. Off to SCA then, as I had some credits, which were just about to run out. Grabbed some metal polish. Last night, for 40 minutes, I rubbed one end of the cover, & then polished it, & the difference was amazing. Unfortunately, every time I've used my mobile phone this morning, I had to revert to my pin number for entry, as my finger print is no longer recognised ! "It's a slippery slope" indeed. I've just instructed myself, to not even look at the "timing chain cover". 🥵 Cheers Banjo

Queenland Stuart ! . . . . . . . . But you better be quick. we are locking our borders on Saturday 8th August. Cheers Banjo

Hi Csongor, What a lovely story, & a very original KE30, in what appears to be, in remarkable condition. I'm just loving the roof rack.. They were in vogue 30-50 years ago. I remember, they also used to produce them with 4 or 6 great big suction caps, that took the weight on the roof corners. (that's in the days, when car bodies were much heavier, & used thicker steel sheet) My KE30 manual states that the front disk rotors were 218mm in diameter, & had a new thickness of 13mm. Machining limit was 12mm, & run out limit was 0.15mm. Your picture of the brake rotor, certainly appears to show it as being fairly thin. In Australia, we can still buy on line solid rotors for around AUD 140 per pair, & aftermarket vented & grooved/dimpled ones for around AUD 240 per pair. It would appear, that the car spent all those "deep sleep dream 14 years" in a shed or barn somewhere. I can't imagine the body would be in such good condition, if it was exposed to the elements. My guess is, that when you provide us with a picture under the bonnet, that the engine, is stock standard, & totally untouched. Have you tried to start it, or had it running ? I love those utube videos, of people starting old trucks, tractors, & cars, that have laid idle for 40 odd years. Good luck, & keep us updated, on your progress, & ask us any questions at all. There are lots of members on here, that know every inch of your car, & will chip in with advice. Cheers Banjo

Hi Si, Light brush with some aluminium cleaning acid. 30 minute rub, with one of those wet & dry thin sponge blocks from Bunnings. Finally, 20 minutes, with some good olde Brasso, & a polishing rag. That will do me ! My engine was never intended for Concourse d'Elegance. Cheers Banjo

Well the last of the external sensors got fitted to the 5K engine today, before the Speeduino, gets attached, & fired up. It's been working on the bench very well. The last sensor to fit was the TPS (throttle Position sensor) On the 7KEFI throttle body, that is easy, as there is one built in, as standard. However, I intend to do the Speeduino testing in two stages. First will be ignition only, & then I'll add the injectors & EFI manifold. Was wondering how I could attach a TPS sensor to a 5K carby throttle shaft, considering, it has no provisions for whatsoever. This is only temporary, but it did work quite well. A simple steel bar attached to the inlet manifold. An old TPS, with broken mounting lugs glued to a separate bar, so I could line up the centre of the carby throttle shaft perfectly, with the TPS centre point. A little home-made adaptor spigot, that screws onto the end of the throttle shaft, which already has a thread & nut. The TPS movement, is very light, so there is very little force transmitted through the adaptor. Hooked the Speeduino up, & with the laptop,, running TunerStudio, & calibrated the TPS so that it's travel from idle to full throttle, reads 0-100% exactly. Oh, engines are so easy to work on, when out of the car ! So roll it back into the garage, & hopefully, by this time next week, I'll have my little engine test stand bench there, hosting the Speeduino in it's enclosure. Cheers Banjo

Stuart & I received a text from Andrew, late yesterday, advising he has got his Suzuki with 5K engine with EFI conversion back home, & going fine. I'd call that a Win ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Rob, Unfortunately, that is the way the world has gone. The reason many of us on this forum, are here; is because we like to keep older things going. One of the specific problems, with "ewaste" is that electronic components & PCBs in particular, cannot be repaired, even if you haven't retired, or have the ability to do so. 1. Many of the silicon chips become obsolete, so quickly these days, that new replacement, upgraded/enhanced chips are not pin for pin compatible. 2. Most high volume PCBs are assembled & soldered by automatic machines these days. The miniaturized parts are very difficult to replace by hand. On top of that, the mark up on spare parts, is just astronomical. Several 100% is not uncommon, in most industries. I've had a habit of "salvaging" any good parts from something that has eventually, "had it day". It's amazing how many times you get to use them. Unfortunately, you have to build another shed eventually, to store all the stuff, so the whole exercise, isn't really a cost saving ! The really annoying thing is; When you finally decide to "turf" something, you've stored for years . . . . . . . the week after you turfed it, you come across a situation, where you need that particular item, you "turfed". Such is Life ! Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard ! What country are you located in ? If you provide that information, maybe someone else, in your part of the world, who follows or frequents this website, may be able to assist you. How long since your Dad's old Rolla was last driven ? Have you got any pictures of it, that you could post on here ? I have a 1974 KE30 2 door, that looks like this. Cheers Banjo

Hey Si, So do you suggest I paint it instead ? Maybe not as "intense" as this guy ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvTnLxw2REE P.S. I'd hate to see him do a video, on how to clean your windscreen. Cheers Banjo

Hi Mark, Welcome aboard ! Is the car registered & road worthy, or is that to come ? A picture tells a thousand words, so when you are after something in particular, then a picture assists, as to where it goes on the car. Would love to see some pics of your car. Deluxe Corolla coupes of that vintage, are becoming very hard to find, in good condition. Which are of Queensland, are you located ? P.S. There is a wrecker down in NSW, in Minto or Campbelltown, that another member on here found a few parts parts, a year or so ago. Apparently, this wrecker grabs any KE20/25s he can get hold of. I'll see if I came find the name of the wrecker for you. Cheers Banjo

Hi Stu, Thanks for that ! I bought one off ebay, & it arrived today. ebay listing for blanking plate Works perfectly. The mounting stud/bolt centres are exactly the same, so there must be some standards, between mechanical fuel pump manufacturers. The plate is a little bit bigger, but I left the original pump "spacer block" off, & just bolted it directly up to the block, with gasket that came with the blanking plate. Looks great ! It is now the shiniest part of the engine, so maybe I'll have to get some metal polish, from SCA, & spend an hour of the "rocker cover", so this blanking plate doesn't feel alone. Cheers Banjo

According to the ebay listing, this distributor, will fit every K series motor ever made, between 1966 & 1984. They list both sedans & commercial Toyota vehicles, as this being suitable for. From previous experience, we know that the distributor advance curve for the commercial vehicles was different to those for the car, as their lower rev/torque requirements, demanded it. So originating from China perhaps, it's anyone's guess as to what the advance curve actually is, unless, we got hold of one & spun it up, & measured it. I have a couple of the original ND "electronic" distributors, that were traditionally only supplied with 5K engines, which were again, traditionally, only fitted to "commercial" Toyota vehicles. These dizzies, used a VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor, which triggered an internal electronic ignitor. They were a nice package, that I have used on several Rollas, over the years. They were however, not designed to switch power to "low ohms", performance type ignition coils, which a few people have found out, . . . . . . the hard way. They have been popular, for mods, because of the small dizzy case size, which is very much like the early 3K ND "points" dizzy. The Bosch dizzy, of the same era, was so much bigger in diameter. They make a good basis for a camshaft trigger signal for anyone attempting an ECU upgrade or mod. Most of the olde 3K ND dizzies, are pretty worn out. At least with this ebay dizzy, you get new mechanicals. The advance bob weights & springs, in this application, are redundant, and it is important, that they be all removed, & the upper & lower shafts locked/welded together, to provide a stable fixed trigger point. After all, it is the ECU, that now produces the far more programable & ideal advance/retard curve. I've used one of these in my Rollas, successfully, in that application, over several years. I do however, like the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade to the 3K ND dizzy. VR sensors don't perform very well at low revs, whereas, the Hall Effect Accuspark upgrade, provides instant starts. I have however, carried one of the old ND electronic dizzies around in the boot, in case my electronic ECU broke down completely, & I needed to just pop this dizzy in the block, & connect it to the coil, to get home. I have never had to use it. Cheers Banjo

"Good I have a project of a 4k engine I want to convert it into efi I wanted to know what engine is that emission that they used to get the parts? And build my project" The EFI parts come from a Toyota 7K engine, that were mainly used in Toyota vans, & light trucks. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stu, You didn't spoil the surprise. The auto electrician, contacted Andrew late yesterday, & gave him the good news (about only good news coming out of Melbourne atm) Andrew contacted me last night, & he is very happy & appreciative, to have his engine running, after many, many months. I was only too happy to be part of a group, including yourself, who have helped Andrew eventually realise his vision. This episode of the ignition issues, Andrew faced using an electronic dizzy as a simple trigger input to an aftermarket ECU, reminds me of a longer discussion, regarding this topic, we all had on here, 2-3 years ago, when Graeme (Big G), was sick of changing the points in his Girls Rolla. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comments Cheers Banjo

Well, the guys in Melbourne trying to sort this out, "guessed", that the black wire with the white stripe was positive, & they were right ! Engine now running ! Cheers Banjo

Just trying to help a member in Melbourne, who is fitting one of these ebay dizzies to a 5K. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Distributor-Fit-for-Toyota-3K-4K-5K-Corolla-KE70-Liteace-Starlet-Daihatsu-Delta/122423257624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The picture in the ebay posting, indicates the two (2) wires coming out of the dizzy are red & black, (which you would assume were +12v & -ve coil terminal respectively) However, the dizzy as supplied, has 1 x brown wire, & 1 x black wire, with a white stripe on it. Has anyone purchased one of these, & has worked out, or has info, as to which wire colour is positive, & which is negative ? Cheers Banjo

Glad that you got that all sorted, rune, & got it motoring ! Cheers Banjo

Best advice I've recently read ! https://www.mta.org.nz/motoring-tips/91-or-95-or-98-octane-petrol-which-to-use/ Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stuart ! I'll look into it. I knew someone else would have come this same issue previously. Cheers Banjo

While getting this 5K all cleaned up, for the Speeduino setup, I pulled off the mechanical fuel pump, that I had experimented with, as a camshaft sync pulse source. I replaced it with a blanking plate, I had previously made up out of sheet metal. However, it is not thick enough, & after about 20 minutes running, there was a trickle of oil seeping out of it. I've not got the resources, nor the time to make one out of something thicker, 4/5/6mm steel plate. I've looked on the net but can't find anyone, selling these blanking plates for the Toyota K series engine. I seem to remember years ago, I came across a website in Europe, (maybe Holland or Finland ?) that made a number of performance accessories for the 3K/4K/5K engines, but I couldn't find them. I remember they had a blanking plate. Lynx here in Australia sell various blanking plates, but not one for the K Series. I did notice, that there is one listed that is suitable for the Toyota FJ40 & FJ60 Landcruiser series, that looks like the right shape. The K series engine, stud mounting centre dimension, for the fuel pump, is 44mm. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR-Toyota-FJ40-FJ60-Series-F-2F-engine-Fuel-Pump-Blank-off-Plate-/252824883703 Does anyone know, where you can get one of these, or whether, I am lucky enough that the Landcruiser one may fit. Maybe someone has one, they are prepared to sell ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Rune, If the white wire is getting hot & melting, when trying to starting the engine, then that would indicate that the white wire is carrying all or part of the very high current the starter motor pulls during cranking. There are three (3) cables that carry this high current. 1. The unfused "heavy duty cable", connected directly between the battery +ve terminal, & the starter motor. 2. The earth/ground/chassis heavy cable between the engine block, & the chassis of the car 3. The earth/ground/chassis heavy duty cable, between the battery -ve terminal, & the chassis of the car. Check all of these, & their connections in particular, & you should find the source of your issue. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Here's a few pics of the solid bracket I built, to mount the Honda Civic camshaft position sensor, which works extremely well, with the 3K/4K/5K toothed trigger wheel. The bracket, simply bolts onto the mounting points on the block, used for attaching the A/C compressor mounting bracket. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/37840- The Honda Civic sensor is available on ebay, at a reasonable price. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camshaft-Position-Sensor-37840-RJH-006-Fits-For-2001-2005-Honda-Civic-1-7L-AU/154005829655?hash=item23db767817:g:iM8AAOSwoLFej-3Q&frcectupt=true The plate onto which the Honda Hall sensor is attached, is made of 4mm thick aluminium plate, so there is no ferrous material near the sensor, that could diminish the magnetic field between the toothed wheel & sensor. The 2 x 6mm bolts clamping this aluminium plate to the bracket, are slightly slotted, so the gap between the tooth tip, & sensor face can be easily adjusted, with a feeler guage, to 0.5mm gap. If anyone wants to get hold of a Honda camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, & do something similar to above, then the three wire connection details for these sensors, can be found, at the following link. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1 I've had the engine running, & have a very stable & clean stream of trigger pulses coming from the sensor. The Hall Effect sensor visible in the very last pic, on the timing chain cover, is so I can feed a camshaft position pulse to the Speeduino, so the 5K can be sequentially controlled. Cheers Banjo

You will need a special "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe, so that the O2 sensor, can screw in. Some O2 sensors come with the bung, others, you have to buy them separately. Fit, just beyond where the 4 into 1 pipes join together, for best results. P.S. If you use a 2 inch meter for the AFR reading from the O2 sensor, did you know it will usually fit in the dash, in place of the clock. I've got a 2 inch meter in there, & it fitted fine. Thanks for the pic of your dash mod. Given me a couple of ideas. Cheers Banjo

Hi Michael, So you should be ! That is a beautiful clean job you've done on your KE35. Thanks for the pics. I did notice that you haven't hooked up your heater hoses, on the rear firewall, . . . . . but then I noticed your N.T. number plates, & that you are probably in Darwin, so that made perfect sense. Would love a close up picture & details of your dash, where you appear to have replaced the whole "radio section" & put in oil pressure & water temp guages ? If that exhaust header, I can just see, is a 4 into 1 extractor, I would suggest taking up Altezzaclub's suggestion of drilling a hole where all four runners join, & fitting a "bung", so you can fit an O2 sensor. That will really assist, in getting your jetting on the DCOE 45 just right. It may be an optical illusion, but the water pump pulley mounting bolts, look quite close to the thermo-fan frame ? As for wheels, I'd suggest definitely going to 14 inch, & using an offset, so that you can run something like a 205, without, having to fit a guard lip, or flare, to cover a "protruding" tyre. 14 inch wheels, also provide the opportunity in the future, to upgrade your front rotors & calipers, to something much bigger. If you haven't already changed the dizzy points to an electronic type, then this engine is a prime example of one, which should have that upgraded. Keep up the good works, & keep us informed of how it all goes. Cheers Banjo

Can be done in the car, but painful. Pulling the sump off, is not something carried out often. When you do have it off, it's a very good idea to check all the bearings, & also the oil pump & it's strainer. The cross member is the big obstruction, so best way is to . . . . "hold the engine up", from above, & remove the cross member altogether. Been there, done that ! P.S. Note I've changed the studs on the alloy timing chain cover for bolts. Cheers Banjo