Banjo

Hi Geoff, I dragged out a few bits & pieces, so you can clearly tell whether the ebay dizzy you have purchased, is an equivalent to the small Denso one, or the larger Bosch one. The dizzy on the LHS is the Bosch one, with a CAS module inside. The middle housing is the Bosch one, without the CAS fitted. The far RHS housing is the smaller Denso one The bottom S.S. disk is suitable for the CAS module on the far LHS. The inside diameter dimension of the Bosch casing is 75 mm. The inside diameter dimension of the Denso casing is 60 mm. The outside diameter of the CAS module is 65 mm. The outside diameter of the S.S. slotted disk, is 50mm. This picture directly above indicates that the disk itself will fit inside the smaller 60mm I/S Denso casing. However, the CAS module O/S diameter dimension is 65mm, so you definitely need the larger Bosch dizzy housing. Hope this assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Francisco, Simple enough to check if it is excessive advance after warm up, that is causing your starting issue. Next time it won't restart, just jump out & clamp the vacuum hose with a little "G" clamp, or something similar, & see if it makes any change to the restarting behaviour. Cheers Banjo

I'm just preparing for when I put my 5K EFI engine into the KE30, & want to have the "fuel system" all ready to go, once the engine is dropped in. Luckily, I have a spare fuel tank, that came out of my KE55, when it went to "Rolla Heaven". I'm preparing the tank, to have an in-tank high pressure pump, & a totally different fuel level sensor system, (hence additional opening at the other end of the tank top). The tank has been empty for several years, & has light rust on the inside of the tank, as seen in the photo above, through the filler opening. Here is another photo taken through the top opening. I've never had the need to clean the rust off the inside of a fuel tank, previously, so Googled it, & found there are numerous "acidic" ways of cleaning, involving various acids, & home made mixtures. However, there are descriptions of using an "electrolysis method", using the tank itself as the "cathode", & an anode of scrap ferrous metal suspended in a electrolytic solution, made up of water & bi-carbonate of soda. Just wondering, if any of you have cleaned rust out of your tank before, & have a proven method, you employed, or would recommend. Cheers Banjo

Hi Francisco, As you are still using the stock standard dizzy, with vacuum & centrifugal advance; where have you plumbed in the vacuum advance tubing, into your 4 x Bike carb induction setup ? Could that be effecting the initial advance at start up, after the engine has already warmed up / Cheers Banjo

Hummm ! I really don't think that it is the starter motor. To eliminate the starter motor as a culprit, or anything electrical in between, you could simply run a reasonably heavy wire, directly to the starter motor solenoid connection, & connect this to a heavy duty starter button or momentary switch, in the cabin, with the button fed from another wire directly to the battery positive, via an in-line fuse. Then just put the ignition switch in the run position, & push the button to start the engine. If the problem goes away, then the issue is in the ignition switch or starter relay. If it is still there, it may well be, as you have just described; an excess advance, after restarting the engine when it is up to temperature. What sort of ignition system, is currently controlling the engine ? P.S. Might be time for a new battery. 2-3 years is a pretty common life expectancy out of a new battery these days. 5 years, you are getting close to terminal. Cheers Banjo

Hi Geoff, That is a good price, but that particular part is the equivalent of the Denso 3K/4K dizzy, & will definitely not fit any of the optical CAS modules. The stainless steel disks, all these CAS modules use, are all about the same diameter approximately. Been there, done that ! You will definitely need a Bosch dizzy housing. Even with the Bosch dizzy, you need to cut a bit out of the wall, to get the connection to the module. I'll see if I can grab a S.S. disk & a 3K Denso dizzy body, out of the shed, later today, & take a picture for you. The only electronic module that is made specifically for the Denso dizzy, is the Accuspark module, but it is not a CAS; just a set of electronic "points". Cheers Banjo

Wow ! A heatshield might well assist. There are a couple of tight bends there, that would not lend the extractors to be too free flowing, I would think. Have you ever run it hard at night, then quickly pulled up, on a dark road, & lifted the bonnet, to see if there are any "red spots" visible on those extractor pipes ? I've never placed a temperature probe on a starter motor, to see how hot the body gets. If you can get hold of a cheap hand held electronic temperature guage, with a remote sensor on a lead, it might be well worth the effort. If you do place a heat shield there, it could provide you with before & after readings, to see how effective it is. Cheers Banjo

Had not come across that particular "pinching" type before. Brilliant ! Pete, at $ 229.00 per pair that is cheap, when compared to the Bahco ones, which are about 2.5 X that price. Came across a video, demo'ing their use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqpQZaXQ9YQ I think this guy is trying to raise some money, or solicit donations, so he can put some "topping on his garage floor ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Geoff, I'm almost certain that TAZ used the Bosch dizzy housing, looking at his picture. None of those Tridon CAS modules would fit in the 3K/4K Denso dizzies, which were much smaller. The CAS used was from a Nissan SR20 4 cylinder engine, which was very popular. The CAS gives you one or two signals, depending on the type of disk used. Some of the disks have many evenly spaced slots circled around the edge, plus a second single inner slot. The inner single slot tells the ECU where the crankshaft is in its 720 deg rotation. The outer slots are then counted from that point onwards, to time everything. There are some disks with only one circle of slots, but usually has 2 or 3 missing slots. The ECU detects the ",missing slots", & uses this as the reference point on the crankshaft. Most ECUs start counting from this point, & usually add the 2 or 3 missing slots to the count, to work out where the crankshaft is. You wouldn't need the "fuel pump" signal, as that information, is provided by the "missing teeth", or the single inner slot. If you are doing a machining course, it should be easy to fabricate a simple extension to the bottom end of the Bosch dizzy, to mount the stainless steel disk. P.S. If you purchase a SR20 CAS, it will probably not come with the plug for the external wiring. You'll have to source these on-line some where. eBay has a good selection. Send us a link to show which dizzy you purchased from ebay. Need to make sure it is the right one, before you go cutting it up. Cheers Banjo

Hi Geoff, Another option for you, would be to purchase a Tridon Crankshaft Position Sensor replacement module, & fit it to the Bosch dizzy housing, that were fitted to 4K engines. Tridon make a large range. SuperCheap Auto can order them in for you. Once you have the internal dimensions, of the gutted Bosch dizzy housing, you could then go through the Tridon options, based on size, to narrow it down. Typical Module Configuration You might like to look through this thread, which has taken a slightly different direction, to obtaining that perfect stable crankshaft positioning signal. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74084-distributorless-5k-engine/#comments TAZ (Si) produced a Dizzy with a loverly spun aluminium cover a few years back, that I believe he might have fitted a Nissan CAS therein. Drop him a PM, & find out what he used. Cheers Banjo

Hi Geoff, Yeah, the home style EFI conversion video was a bit addictive. Glad to see there is some else on Rollaclub, who is really interested in EFI conversion on a K Series engine. I've played with all sorts of triggering systems, over the years. Haltech Video on Crank & Camshaft Toothed Degree Wheels The simplest thing you can produce, if you need a distributor "degree wheel", with missing tooth, is build one yourself, using an old Corolla dizzy, & locking it up, & adding a Nissan degree disk. Here's one I made a few years ago. The trick is to use the Bosch dizzy, rather than the Denso dizzy. The Bosch dizzy, fitted to many later K Series motors, was physically bigger in diameter, & can fairly easily squeeze in the mechanism, from a later model Nissan dizzy. The Nissan dizzy, has an optical sensor, & a number of different stainless steel disks available, including missing tooth. Here is another setup I found on the net, that someone was adapting to his engine. Don't really know, from where it originates. Mitsubishi ? Nissan ? Sometimes easier to mechanically adapt something, that already works, to your application. Some one on here might recognise it ? Really easy to lock up the Rolla dizzies, by taking out all the springs & bob weights etc. There is a guy in Sydney somewhere, who can laser cut or punch out these disks, in any format you need or want. I know Adrian (Nesta/Rollaclub) got one a few years ago, when he was playing around with 7K EFI systems. I might have a couple of S.S. disks here lying around, if you want to have a go, at making one yourself. Several months ago, I raised a query on here, that I heard that Mazda produced a EFI Carby type thingo, on one of the 1300 cc engines, that might well adapt to our engines, being of similar capacity. I believe it is a Mazda B5-ME series motor, with EGI SPI. I have yet to see one in the flesh, & haven't had time to crawl the wrecking yards, looking for one. Like the Kia Corolla video, it would be a relatively simple way to add EFI to a 3K or 4K engine. From memory, it apparently takes the simple bolt on format of the Holley conversion, but without the "smarts". I presume Mazda had a little "box" to control it. Cheers Banjo

Hi Colin, Despite our old Corollas, only having three (3) engine mounts, two (2) off them counteract, the thrust motion of the engine trying to "roll", or twist. From my observation, the engine mount on the inlet & exhaust manifolds, takes the most thrust load, "in extension" (tries to tear it apart). This particular engine mount, suffers more than most, because the rubber in the mount, is so close to the exhaust system, & the heat generated from there. That's why Toyota, included a little heat deflector plate in the engine mount. Unfortunately, it was attached with pop rivets, & often after years of use, becomes loose, & fall off, or rattle. If any one of the three (3) engine mounts fail, it is usually the rear gearbox one. This one usually suffers from oil leaks, at the back of the gearbox, & separates from one on the mounted metal pieces, that make up the mount. However, even a failed one, does not effect the roll or thrust movement of the engine, to any great extent. The Echo 2NZ-FE engine only has 3 off engine mounts. The two (2) at the ends of the engine, (East / West), which don't resist the rotation thrust of the engine, very much, when releasing power. This thrust movement, is taken up, by just one mount, at the rear of engine, in a "compression" mode. There is no engine mount on the front of the engine, behind the radiator, in most East/West engine configurations. However, the third engine mount that does most of the work, to counter engine thrust rotation, is well spaced away from the engine, so has a large effect, as a result of mechanical advantage. However, in most East/East engine arrangements, like the Echo, this engine mount is very close to the exhaust system, & the heat shields in this area are usually, pretty extensive. I had two (2) off the three (3) engine mounts out, whilst I changed the clutch, & both were in excellent condition, so I don't think, that the slight shudder I've experienced, is the result of engine mount deterioration. I'll let you know, if bleeding the clutch, has the desired effect. Cheers Banjo

Hi Adrien, Welcome aboard ! Where are located ? I have a 1974 KE30, here in Australia, that was assembled by AMI in Melbourne. It has the traditional KE Rolla bonnet, shape, & has the chrome air flow grills at the back. I have some body parts from my 1979 "deceased" KE55 2 door coupe, (died of cancer) which had the bonnet with the front raised lip on it, but its air grills, were simply pressed. (no chrome insert) The KE55 coupe was very similar to your KE35 coupe. Interestingly, the 3 bar chrome grill you have there seems to be much wider than the 2 bar one on my KE30. I don't think it would be too hard to cut out your bonnet, & insert the chrome grills you have acquired. Have you just acquired your KE35 ? Cheers Banjo

Came across this video, as you do when there is a pandemic in progress, & you have time to chill. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2x25ga1MSg It's from California, in the USA, & is the first in, a long series, (Not as long as Project Binky ! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHvBHWBzzB7NyU5tIiEZHBg), but shines a light, on a different approach to fitting EFI to carburetor engines. The Holley Sniper system, is expensive, by Australian standards, but is relatively simple, to implement. Holley also have an ignition module, that mates to the EFI carburetor replacement device, so that you finish up with a pretty easy system refit. P.S. Got a bit bored during the rerunning of fuel lines section, from back to front, but somehow, the video was infectious, & I kept watching. Note: The background music might put you to sleep ? P.S.S. Oh by the way, . . . . . . these guys have never heard of our product "Start You Barstard" P.S.S.S. I think project Binky is up to about Episode 30 now. I'm starting to get worried, they may not get this project finished, before I depart this planet. Cheers Banjo

Hi Keith, Since posting that yesterday, I've done a little more research, & found numerous references to clutch shudder on Yaris websites & forums. (Yaris use the same engine family as the Echo) There are informed comments on there, that the shudder incidence is wide spread, & can often be solved by completely changing the brake fluid, & bleeding both clutch & brakes. These model Toyota share a common reserve fluid tank, which is very hard to access, so doesn't get done often, or gets put into the "too hard" basket. I'm not discounting it, as "stranger things have happened", but I feel absolutely no "sponginess", in the clutch pedal. So what's to lose; so I'll try bleeding at the weekend, & see what transpires. P.S. I take your point . . . . . "or the shafts are shorter in new g'boxes, or a design change internally keeps the input stable." The shaft is certainly a bit shorter. Cheers Banjo

I'm not a professional mechanic, but have played with various engines & drive trains over the years, (mainly Toyota), but recently came across something, that has me scratching my head ? I'm very familiar with the spigot or pilot bearing, that supports the front spigot of the gearbox input shaft, which is notoriously hard to remove sometimes, but can be accomplished with the grease/wet paper/white bread/compression technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvg5YtB4CQ0 I've always replaced the spigot/pilot bearing, anytime I've had the gearbox or clutch out, as it is not the place you get to often, & can become annoying if it wears out, or goes dry & squeals. I am well aware of the need for the spigot bearing or bush, to keep the input shaft of the gearbox completely aligned, so that there is no shudder in the engagement of the clutch plate, which is directly "tied" to the gearbox input shaft via 19 or 21 splines, in our K series combinations. KE Series Gearbox Input Shaft This is borne out, by the fact that I have a 4 & a 5 speed K series gearboxes on my garage floor atm, & if I move the spigot point on the gearbox input shaft with my finger, there is some slop in it up & down, (couple of mm) which is "unwanted", in operation. There is movement, because there is a "single" front gearbox bearing, at the other end of the shaft, behind the front gearbox oil seal. As this front bearing wears a little, any movement in the shaft is "amplified" because the spigot point is so far removed from the bearing mounting point. So I bought my kids a 2004 Toyota Echo Hatchback, a couple of years back, which is a great little roundabout, with extremely good economy. (700+klms to a 38 litre refill) The clutch had a very slight shudder in it, when I bought it, so got a couple of hundred bucks off the price, when I purchased it. I ordered an Exedy Clutch replacement kit, with everything included, like throw out bearing etc. I've actually never taken a gearbox out of an east/west engined car previously, without removing the whole engine & gearbox, as a complete unit. I also unfortunately don't have a hoist. However, there is always a way, & to cut a long story short, the gearbox came out OK, along with the clutch & pressure plate. What I then saw both surprised me, & concerned me. The Echo engine had no spigot/pilot bearing at the back of the crankshaft/flywheel. The input shaft for the gearbox, had no spigot turned down point on the tip of it, which is usually how they look. I had never come across this before, but with researched since, have discovered that there are other more recent Toyota engines, that also have no spigot bearing or bush. So I put the new clutch in it, & put it all back together, & everything went well. So my son has been driving it around Canberra for a year or so now, & I recently traveled down there, from Brissy, & took a Yaris to him, & drove the Echo back again, to be used by my daughter. I have noticed again that there is the slightest shudder, when taking off from a standing start in 1st gear. As the clutch is fairly new, & the flywheel face was very clean, when I put it back together, I can only assume that with 180K klms on the car, the front gearbox bearing, has a little wear & movement in it, which is allowing the other end of the shaft to move a bit, under take up. I have no idea at all why the spigot/pilot bearing was "abandoned" in the design of the Echo 2NZ-FE engine & others ? Has anyone else on here come across this before, & experienced similar movement shudders ? The only way I could see the designers removing the need for a spigot bearing, was if there were two front bearings in the gearbox, spaced slightly, or maybe one very wide bearing. As I said, "Got me scratching my head ?" Your thoughts or theories ? Cheers Banjo

Hi James, Here is a very "olde" post (2012) on our forum, that might be of help to you in other areas, although not specific about "slant" & "flat face" bonnets. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62425-the-noob-starting-guide-to-ke70s/ Here's another post which votes on which bonnet is best (once you get to page 3), but doesn't provide anything useful regarding dimensions, which Altezzaclub has already advised. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40183-slant-vs-flat-front/#comments James, there is a guy advertising on Gumtree, in Port Arthur, who has a lot of KE70 body & window parts for sale. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Rattle, rattle, rattle ! Biggest problem with "rotary" electric fuel pumps, is definitely, the noise & vibration. I only fitted one to my Rolla, so I could use a mechanical fuel pump, "modified", to experiment with as an easy way to produce a synch pulse, from the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft, for my electronic ignition system. There are in-tank electric pumps with low pressure outputs for carby engines. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/aeromotives-tank-pumps-carburetors/ The great beauty of an electric fuel pump, is that they can be fitted at, or near the tank, so that the majority of the fuel line between tank & carby inlet, is under pressure, not vacuum. The other electric fuel pump, that is electric, but not rotary, is the British SU, as fitted to many early English cars. These produce a tick, tick, tick, rather than a rattle/rattle/rattle. Plenty of these available second hand, & you can still purchase repair kits, & recondition one. Biggest issue with SUs, was the "points", which like our Rolla dizzy points, used to burn, & pit, & stick. I note now that these SU points, can now be fitted with a solid state electronic "points", which overcomes this problem. However, many of the early British cars that used SU electric fuel pumps, that were imported to Australia, had the SU attached to the firewall in the engine bay, & the line from the fuel tank in the rear, was under suction. Worse than that, these English cars ran their fuel lines parallel to the exhaust system, to keep the petrol warm, in their northern hemisphere winters. Unfortunately, in Australia, that created vapourisation in the fuel line, & the solution was to fit the SU in the rear of the car, & reroute the fuel line, away from the exhaust system. I used to have an olde SU fuel pump here somewhere. My Dad used to have a Morris 6, in the early days, & could remember, often having to get out of the car, lift the bonnet, & give the SU a good few taps on the side, to free the points from sticking. https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/su-or-hardi-fuel-pump.3251831/ There are a couple of German brands of electric fuel pumps, in the SU vein. They are the Hardi & Huco. Here is a video with some good basic advice & formula, for sizing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=RDCMUCI3fKpfLBb9NegrWPWI2k_w&v=O06TpVafwIo&feature=emb_rel_end Cheers Banjo

Hi James, Try this basic one for starters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ilRYuGcPkI ebay cheapie ! They work, but need to be isolated mechanically of rubber mounts. Cheers Banjo

Hi James, There is a very simple test you can carry out, to see whether the issue is the pump itself, or the fuel line between tank & filter & pump. Get a couple of metres of suitable size clear plastic tubing. Slide one end over pump inlet spout, & stick the other end in a can of petrol, which is sited local to the engine. Run the engine, & watch the petrol delivery through the clear plastic tubing. There should be no bubbles evident. If the tube end is always held below the level of petrol in the can, then there is no chance of any air being introduced. If the engine is still starving, or running out of fuel, you might want to fit another bit of clear plastic tubing, between the pump outlet & the inlet to the carby. If there are bubbles in this line, then there is a problem with the pump diaphram or internal valves. If there are no bubbles, but the problem persists, then it likely to be in the carby itself. Likely suspects are the inlet ball/pin valve, or the carby float. The most common problem is a blocked carby inlet filter. Many users don't even know there is an inlet filter in the carby, as it is not visible. You actually have to remove/unscrew the inlet valve assembly, & then pull it out. It is a very, very fine gauze filter, & often clogs up over time. Clean this filter, & if that was the issue, your problem will be eliminated. If you still want to go electric pump, give us a yell, & I'll post a picture of a very cheap one I picked up on ebay, that works well, although a bit noisy. Cheers Banjo

Hi James, Welcome aboard ! Are you looking for a mechanical pump to replace the OEM one one the front LHS of the engine, or are you toying with possibly, switching over to an electric pump, which has some advantages, & disadvantages ? The original OEM pumps were very reliable, but asked to suck fuel from a long way back. I once had a mechanical pump that would not deliver. After trying two other pumps, with the same results, I came to the conclusion, that my issue was not the pump at all. Issue was a not perfect seal in the fuel line, that was almost undetectable, but pushed the pump beyond its limits. Only found it by running a long piece of plastic hose from the tank to the pump input. It worked perfectly, so hence I went looking for the point, where it was sucking in air. It you go electric, & mount the pump in the rear of the car, this has the advantage, that the suction line is short, & the bulk of the fuel line from the back of the car, to the carby inlet, is under pressure, not vacuum. However, the disadvantage is, that you must add some safety features to ensure the pump is powered down, if the car is involved in an accident. Lets know your thoughts. Cheers Banjo

Hi Graeme, For you ! For the Love of Toyota's 86 Corolla is Eternal Cheers Karlos

Hi Karlos, You left your "location" on in your camera, & using the latest hi-tech software, we have here in Oz, I was able to locate you in South America, & pick up a picture of you in real-time, from a road side camera. I have very bad news for you. Your beloved Corolla, has already contracted the viras, & turned into a Corona ! As for the olde paint drum you used to store the old sump oil in, I can advise, that "Acid" is not a colour name for some Toyota Colour Code. One other thing I noticed about your car, that you may have missed. The hubcaps have fallen off; although there are others on our forum, who would probable suggest, that is the least of your issues with your Corolla. We are amazed at the amount of work you have done to the car already, & ask that you regularly put some more pictures up here for us to look at . . . . . . . once you get your camera working again. Cheers Banjo

I'm new here. I live in South America. Found your website, as I'm scared about my KE Corolla, catching the viras, & turning into a Corona. I do not want that, as I couldn't afford to pay for the more Benzine it would use. I have looked up about the viras, & found that the Corona Viras sticks to metal surfaces. I decided to make my Corolla very slippery, so nothing could stick to it. I poured an old drum of sump oil, I had here, all over it last night, before going to bed. Very bad ! When I wake up this morning, the paint is peeling all over my Rolla. Is there anything I can do to reverse this condition ? P.S. Sorry, I can't post a picture of it, as I think my phone has got the viras too, as the camera part doesn't seem to be working this morning. Thanks Karlos

Hi Chauny, Welcome aboard ! Bet we can help you fix your Corolla, as there are not too many faults, I would think, that we haven't come across before. (especially electrical) Altezzaclub, was quick to answer you, because he "loves" KE70s. Tell us a little about your Corolla, which will help us, help you. Electrical faults can be intermittent, or "partial", but are often, just working one minute, & not the next. (like when you blow a fuse) When was your Corolla last running OK ? Did it just stop, or was there signs of something going wrong before it became immobile ? Any smells ? Dim lights ? Been hard to start ? The more information you can feed us, the quicker we can point you in the right direction, & get you mobile again. Cheers Banjo