Banjo

Just trying to help a member in Melbourne, who is fitting one of these ebay dizzies to a 5K. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Distributor-Fit-for-Toyota-3K-4K-5K-Corolla-KE70-Liteace-Starlet-Daihatsu-Delta/122423257624?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The picture in the ebay posting, indicates the two (2) wires coming out of the dizzy are red & black, (which you would assume were +12v & -ve coil terminal respectively) However, the dizzy as supplied, has 1 x brown wire, & 1 x black wire, with a white stripe on it. Has anyone purchased one of these, & has worked out, or has info, as to which wire colour is positive, & which is negative ? Cheers Banjo

Glad that you got that all sorted, rune, & got it motoring ! Cheers Banjo

Best advice I've recently read ! https://www.mta.org.nz/motoring-tips/91-or-95-or-98-octane-petrol-which-to-use/ Cheers Banjo

Thanks Stuart ! I'll look into it. I knew someone else would have come this same issue previously. Cheers Banjo

While getting this 5K all cleaned up, for the Speeduino setup, I pulled off the mechanical fuel pump, that I had experimented with, as a camshaft sync pulse source. I replaced it with a blanking plate, I had previously made up out of sheet metal. However, it is not thick enough, & after about 20 minutes running, there was a trickle of oil seeping out of it. I've not got the resources, nor the time to make one out of something thicker, 4/5/6mm steel plate. I've looked on the net but can't find anyone, selling these blanking plates for the Toyota K series engine. I seem to remember years ago, I came across a website in Europe, (maybe Holland or Finland ?) that made a number of performance accessories for the 3K/4K/5K engines, but I couldn't find them. I remember they had a blanking plate. Lynx here in Australia sell various blanking plates, but not one for the K Series. I did notice, that there is one listed that is suitable for the Toyota FJ40 & FJ60 Landcruiser series, that looks like the right shape. The K series engine, stud mounting centre dimension, for the fuel pump, is 44mm. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR-Toyota-FJ40-FJ60-Series-F-2F-engine-Fuel-Pump-Blank-off-Plate-/252824883703 Does anyone know, where you can get one of these, or whether, I am lucky enough that the Landcruiser one may fit. Maybe someone has one, they are prepared to sell ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Rune, If the white wire is getting hot & melting, when trying to starting the engine, then that would indicate that the white wire is carrying all or part of the very high current the starter motor pulls during cranking. There are three (3) cables that carry this high current. 1. The unfused "heavy duty cable", connected directly between the battery +ve terminal, & the starter motor. 2. The earth/ground/chassis heavy cable between the engine block, & the chassis of the car 3. The earth/ground/chassis heavy duty cable, between the battery -ve terminal, & the chassis of the car. Check all of these, & their connections in particular, & you should find the source of your issue. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Here's a few pics of the solid bracket I built, to mount the Honda Civic camshaft position sensor, which works extremely well, with the 3K/4K/5K toothed trigger wheel. The bracket, simply bolts onto the mounting points on the block, used for attaching the A/C compressor mounting bracket. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/37840- The Honda Civic sensor is available on ebay, at a reasonable price. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camshaft-Position-Sensor-37840-RJH-006-Fits-For-2001-2005-Honda-Civic-1-7L-AU/154005829655?hash=item23db767817:g:iM8AAOSwoLFej-3Q&frcectupt=true The plate onto which the Honda Hall sensor is attached, is made of 4mm thick aluminium plate, so there is no ferrous material near the sensor, that could diminish the magnetic field between the toothed wheel & sensor. The 2 x 6mm bolts clamping this aluminium plate to the bracket, are slightly slotted, so the gap between the tooth tip, & sensor face can be easily adjusted, with a feeler guage, to 0.5mm gap. If anyone wants to get hold of a Honda camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, & do something similar to above, then the three wire connection details for these sensors, can be found, at the following link. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1 I've had the engine running, & have a very stable & clean stream of trigger pulses coming from the sensor. The Hall Effect sensor visible in the very last pic, on the timing chain cover, is so I can feed a camshaft position pulse to the Speeduino, so the 5K can be sequentially controlled. Cheers Banjo

You will need a special "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe, so that the O2 sensor, can screw in. Some O2 sensors come with the bung, others, you have to buy them separately. Fit, just beyond where the 4 into 1 pipes join together, for best results. P.S. If you use a 2 inch meter for the AFR reading from the O2 sensor, did you know it will usually fit in the dash, in place of the clock. I've got a 2 inch meter in there, & it fitted fine. Thanks for the pic of your dash mod. Given me a couple of ideas. Cheers Banjo

Hi Michael, So you should be ! That is a beautiful clean job you've done on your KE35. Thanks for the pics. I did notice that you haven't hooked up your heater hoses, on the rear firewall, . . . . . but then I noticed your N.T. number plates, & that you are probably in Darwin, so that made perfect sense. Would love a close up picture & details of your dash, where you appear to have replaced the whole "radio section" & put in oil pressure & water temp guages ? If that exhaust header, I can just see, is a 4 into 1 extractor, I would suggest taking up Altezzaclub's suggestion of drilling a hole where all four runners join, & fitting a "bung", so you can fit an O2 sensor. That will really assist, in getting your jetting on the DCOE 45 just right. It may be an optical illusion, but the water pump pulley mounting bolts, look quite close to the thermo-fan frame ? As for wheels, I'd suggest definitely going to 14 inch, & using an offset, so that you can run something like a 205, without, having to fit a guard lip, or flare, to cover a "protruding" tyre. 14 inch wheels, also provide the opportunity in the future, to upgrade your front rotors & calipers, to something much bigger. If you haven't already changed the dizzy points to an electronic type, then this engine is a prime example of one, which should have that upgraded. Keep up the good works, & keep us informed of how it all goes. Cheers Banjo

Can be done in the car, but painful. Pulling the sump off, is not something carried out often. When you do have it off, it's a very good idea to check all the bearings, & also the oil pump & it's strainer. The cross member is the big obstruction, so best way is to . . . . "hold the engine up", from above, & remove the cross member altogether. Been there, done that ! P.S. Note I've changed the studs on the alloy timing chain cover for bolts. Cheers Banjo

Is the sump retained with . . . . threaded studs, with nuts & washers only ? bolts & washers only ? Combination of both of above ?

So with the tooth wheel sorted, it's time to check & calibrate all the other inputs, the Speeduino needs to run. Coolant Temperature: I built a coolant sensor, using a precision NTC thermistor probe, I have, with an R25 value of 10K ohms. All of the temp sender units, I've collected over the years, are single wire ones, using the engine block & the chassis earthing system, for the return of the "resistance" circuit. I wanted to make all the sensors feeding into the Speeduino, to be two (2) wire, so that there is only one earthing point for them all, back within the Speeduino PCB itself. I grabbed an old sensor, & drilled out all the sensor element, until it was a clean bare brass shell. Then I inserted the insulated thermistor probe, & glued it in with Aradite. Then to calibrate in for use with the Speeduino. The standard "bias" resistor fitted to the Speeduino PCB has a value of 2490 ohms. That works out well, as the 10K ohm thermistor, has resistance values of 20 deg C (19.9) = 12.566K ohms 60 deg C (59.9) = 2.5K ohm 100 deg C (100.5) = 0.669K ohm So the mid point of the range we are wanting the readings to be most accurate, is 60 deg C, where the resistance of 2.5K ohm, is almost exactly the same as the bias resistor, at 2.49K ohm. That should provide good accuracy. I plugged all the three temp points & their corresponding ohm values, into the settings, in TS, & burnt it to the Speeduino processor. As the coolant measurement, will be in the 80-95 deg C range, most of the time, I decided to check it with the only standard high temperature, I have handy, which is boiling water. Off to the kitchen to "borrow" my wife's electric kettle. I suspended the probe inside, & it read 20 deg C, which was the ambient temp here this morning. Then I turned on the kettle & watched the temperature rise through the range in Tuner Studio, until it stopped at 100 deg C, just as it boiled. So fitted it to the engine, at the highest point of the water coolant system. Next sensor will be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which I've just pulled off my 7K EFO setup. P.S. I had been concerned that I was going to have to reroute the coolant drain cock, located directly below the water pump, whose removal was just blocked by the addition of the Toothed Wheel. However, I discovered if I rotated the engine, so that the "missing tooth", was opposite the end of the drain cock, it was possible to remove the drain cock, with a socket. Cheers Banjo

The toothed trigger wheel, can basically be mounted in four different rotational positions, which places the "missing tooth" section of the wheel, in four different positions, relative to TDC. All ECU's settings, have a "crank angle trigger" setting, that can usually be adjusted anywhere from 0-360 deg C, if the toothed wheel is on the crankshaft. However, most tuners suggest placing it, at around 70 - 90 deg ATDC, so it has plenty of time to do all the calculations, before the next firing. I placed my tooth wheel, in a position, I determined, to be appropriate, then rotated the crank, until the toothed wheel "missing tooth" section was level with the Hall sensor. The ECU recognises the first tooth after the missing tooth section, as the synch point. In my case, it is the rising edge of that first tooth. I then when around to the other end of the engine, where I have a large accurate degree wheel on the flywheel, & the angle the crank was in, was 102 deg ATDC. Very happy with that ! Very happy with the whole trigger wheel in general. Suggest, if anyone is interested, in obtaining a trigger wheel for their K series engine, then send Danel a PM, as he posted earlier in this thread, on page 1. So next task is to start testing the other various sensor inputs on the Speeduino. P.S. Anyone else here on Rollaclub forum, playing or running a Speeduino ECU at present ? Cheers Banjo

Found some manifold studs late yesterday, that were exactly the correct size & length, for attaching the 36:1 toothed wheel, to the 5K crankshaft pulley. 8mm M1.25 38mm long. The pic below, shows them fitted with some thread locker, in the pulley threads. Four (4) off 35mm OD thick 1/2" washers, Araldited together, made a perfect 9-10mm deep spacer, between the back of the toothed wheel, & the original washer face on the crankshaft pulley. That creates a gap of about 10mm between, between the back edge of the toothed wheel, & the crankshaft pulley V belt edge flange. It is important, that there is no ferrous material, very close to the teeth on the trigger wheel, if the best signal is to be produced from the sensor. This is not an issue, when this wheel is used, with a 3K or 4K crankshaft pulley, as they are only have a 110mm O.D., & the teeth are well clear from any surrounding ferrous metal, of the pulley. I found a website for for a USA manufacturer of trigger wheels, that suggests a clearance gap between the end of the tooth & the face of the Hall sensor, of 3-5 thou, per inch of diameter of the wheel. For this particular wheel, that works out about 0.46mm - 0.76mm clearance. So I assembled it all, & adjusted the sensor position, to one tooth, with a 0.5mm feeler guage. I then rotated the wheel, with the feeler across the face of the sensor, & it neither got looser or tighter, so I'm very happy with the eccentricity of the trigger wheel. Thanks Danel ! The bracket that the Hall sensor is attached to, should not be made of ferrous material, so the magnetic flux to the sensor, is not diverted or "drained", by nearby ferrous material. I have made my bracket out of a thick piece of thick aluminium, which you can spot in the pic above. This trigger wheel setup, is critical, as to whether the result is a flawless & reliable EFI performance or not, so I am making sure, at this point, that it is as good as I can get it. After it is assembled, I'll crank the engine over, & view the sensor pulse output, with an oscilloscope, to see how clean the pulses are. Cheers Banjo

Had to think about that one Pete ! I've never had an after market oil cooler, so have never considered that it could be fitted upside down. I gather, you are referring to drain back, (after engine shut down) , of the oil in the cooler, seeping back into the sump, if the cooler is mounted above the height of the sump, which most are. So the top hose on the oil cooler, should be connected to the "sandwich plate connection" under the oil filter, that comes from the oil pump outlet ? Cheers Banjo

So the 36:1 toothed trigger wheel for the 4K engine arrived, & is now fitted to my 5K engine. The 36:1 toothed wheel will fit 3K, 4K, & 5K crankshaft pulleys, as the mounting points are identical on each. The 3K & 4K crankshaft pullies, are about 110mm O.D., whereas the 5K crankshaft pully is about 145mm O.D. The toothed wheel is 155mm O.D. so sits nicely on the 5K pulley, with the teeth clear of the pulley edge, as seen in the above pic. The toothed wheel, will bolt straight up to the 3K & 4K pullies, but has to be spaced on the 5K pulley. My 5K crankshaft pulley is dished, to take additional pullies, & has a harmonic balancer built into it, so the toothed wheel will crush the harmonic rubber, if bolted up, without a spacer. The centre bolt also needs a spacer behind the toothed wheel, as there is a gap there to the crankshaft pulley, of about14-15mm. Likewise, the 4 off 8mm x 1.25M mounting bolts, will need to be about 35mm long, & need spacer tubes behind the toothed wheel. I'm actually going to use manifold studs, that happen do be available, in that exact size. Makes it a lot easier to assembly, than with bolts, & spacers behind the toothed wheel. This 36:1 toothed trigger wheel, is laser cut from 6mm thick plate, rather than being a machined one, which cost a lot more, to manufacture. Considering it is laser cut, it is of good quality. I set it up with a piece of clamped metal near the teeth, & measured the eccentricity, & lateral run-out, & it was much less than 1mm out. The best & easiest point, to mount the Hall tooth sensor, is off the K engine block A.C. bracket mounting points, just around the corner. You could make a fancy one, that was mounted off the "timing chain cover", but at this stage, that is a lot of work, & will have to wait until another day, when the timing chain cover is off for another reason. Last night, I temporarily hooked up a Honda Hall effect sensor, I got on ebay. I used one of these previously, for counting the starter teeth on the flywheel, & it worked well. I cranked the engine over, without spark plugs, & was greeted with a clean stream of pulses from the Hall sensor, via an opto-coupler & an LED, on a little board, that also produces a 0-5 volt square wave pulse train, for the Speeduino ECU input. Here is a good general video about crank & cam toothed wheel sensors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW0ENqcxNSg Now I know it all works, I'll take the toothed wheel off, & paint it, as being bare mild steel, it won't take long to rust, in our Qld. weather. Cheers Banjo

Trigger wheel arrived, so testing soon ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Josh, PM sent to you regarding Gregory's No: 184 manual. Cheers Banjo

Doubles as a quick & easy towing hook. Say No More ! Cheers Banjo

The long awaited Haltech R5 VCU, is now apparently available for sale, in the past few days. I've followed it's evolution with interest, as it is an entirely different concept. HALTECH NEXUS R5 VCU Despite being aimed squarely at the motor sport industry, it has the ability to be able to control just about everything, in an ordinary automobile, from just one controller/box. So gone is the ECU/EMS tag, & in with the VCU, which stands for Vehicle Control Unit. There appears to be enough outputs on this controller, such that every light, horn, windscreen washers/wipers, radio, etc., can be controlled from this VCU box. Explanation of Haltech Nexus R5  - VCU At around $ 5.5K, I doubt Rollaclub members will be flocking to buy something, that costs far more than most our Rollas are worth. However, it did cross my mind, how simple the wiring diagram would be. Battery, Alternator, Nexus R5, & a single wire to each electrical item in the car. No interlocks, no relays, no mass of wires behind the dash. How simple to trouble shoot ! P.S. It would almost do Altezzaclub, out of a job, tracing our electrical wiring diagrams, to asssist our RollaClub members, with "electrical issues". Cheers Banjo

Hi Darren, Yeah lots of fun coming up. The COPS are a natural progression of experimenting with different fuel & ignition alternatives, for our K series engines. I have previously had a 4K engine running in waste spark mode, using a couple of Commodore coils with two HV spark plug connections. The only problem with these; are that the spark travels/jumps in one direction, in one spark plug, & in the opposite direction on the other. That then requires expensive platinum plugs. The beauty of the COPs is, that each COP has it's own ignitor on board, & the input trigger signal is low voltage. Just parallel two COPS together, & they then fire in unison (waste spark) with the spark jumping the gap in the same/right direction. The Waste Spark system, also employs a simple triggering system, so you don't need to have a synchronising camshaft pulse, at all. Just awaiting the toothed wheel to arrive in the post, to start experimenting, with the Speeduino, which has been running perfectly, non stop, on the bench, for the last four (4) days. Cheers Banjo

From what you are advising, it sounds like you do not have any physical horns fitted to the car at all ! So first thing, is to get some form of horn, so you can test it out. You do not need to turn on the ignition, to produce a 12 volt supply to the horns. The horn circuit should be alive, in most cars, even when the ignition is off. That's why it shares a fuse with the Hazzard lights, which can be turned on, when the car is disabled on the side of the road, without the need for the ignition switch to be on. The horn ring in the steering wheel, is already connected to the chassis, so the spring loaded pin, should be connected to the horn/s. This is usually a single wire, on a small spade connector, that plugs into the rear of the steering wheel centre section. It may simply have not been plugged back in, when someone had the steering wheel dissembled previously. The circuit diagram above indicates that the horn/s are grounded or earthed to the chassis, directly by the horn ring switch. I have always liked to add a relay between the horns & the horn button, so the horn button, does not have to switch the full current of the horn/s. If you want to do this modification, give us a yell, once you have some working horns, & we'll provide a sketch, to assist you. Cheers Banjo

As you have never heard the horns work in your car, then the first thing I would do, before tracing wires & fuses etc, is ensure that the horns actually work. This is easy. I believe the horns on your car are located down between the grill & the radiator, one on each side. Disconnect the spade terminal leads from each horn. Take two pieces of wire, & connect or temporarily clip them each, to the battery terminals. Then touch the two wires from the battery across each horn's two spade contacts, to ensure they work. If that all works, then at least you know, the problem is wiring, fuses, or most probably, the horn contact switch in the steering wheel. I got so sick of my horn not working, because of the horn ring contact wearing, that I converted my horn button to wireless. Horn button contact wear problem eliminated forever ! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75658-ke3055-horn-steering-wheel-contact-ring/ Cheers Banjo.

Hi Mark, Welcome back ! I figure you are talking about these vents ? I figure you are talking about Depending how bad the rust/cancer is, you can only improve the strength in this area, by welding a piece of sheet metal, over the exposed holes, depending on how far back, around the hole, you have to cut, to rid yourself of the rust. Venting the boot, depends on how the existing tank is vented. Later model KEs had a vent line that went right back to the engine, with a little plastic valve, before it fed into the air cleaner. However, early KEs, just had a line that went up into the roof almost, (to prevent siphoning), before the pipe just dropped down to under the rear of the car, to atmosphere. I had a KE55 Coupe 1979 vintage, & the area, I'd me more concerned with, is the metal between the rear & side windows. This is a crucial part of the KE55 Coupe's body work, as being of pillarless construction, it relies on that area between the roof & lower body, for rigidity. Toyota, rightly placed about 4-5 layers of metal in this area, to provide extra strength, but it was raw unprimed, unpainted metal. It is very prone to rust, when water creeps in, through the rear glass rubbers; particularly down at the bottom corners. Unfortunately, this is an area you cannot readily inspect. 1979 Ke55 Coupe R.I.P. I remember when I cut my KE55 coupe up, to sell the rear floor area for a wide rear wheel mod, I was horrified, when I cut the roof off in this area. Don't know how you can really check this are out. Maybe, place the car on a flat concrete pad, & jack each front corner of the car up, one at a time, as high as you can go, to create some torsional twist in the body. Maybe, someone could put their ear to this area in the rear upper quarters, & listen to hear whether there are any not so nice noises, as a result. Others, on here, may care to share their views on this "dark area" of our beloved Rollas. Cheers Banjo

Here is another source of genuine Toyota KE20 strut tops, if the Amayama option doesn't play out. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-support-sub-assy-fr-4860912030 Cheers Banjo