Banjo

Is the sump retained with . . . . threaded studs, with nuts & washers only ? bolts & washers only ? Combination of both of above ?

So with the tooth wheel sorted, it's time to check & calibrate all the other inputs, the Speeduino needs to run. Coolant Temperature: I built a coolant sensor, using a precision NTC thermistor probe, I have, with an R25 value of 10K ohms. All of the temp sender units, I've collected over the years, are single wire ones, using the engine block & the chassis earthing system, for the return of the "resistance" circuit. I wanted to make all the sensors feeding into the Speeduino, to be two (2) wire, so that there is only one earthing point for them all, back within the Speeduino PCB itself. I grabbed an old sensor, & drilled out all the sensor element, until it was a clean bare brass shell. Then I inserted the insulated thermistor probe, & glued it in with Aradite. Then to calibrate in for use with the Speeduino. The standard "bias" resistor fitted to the Speeduino PCB has a value of 2490 ohms. That works out well, as the 10K ohm thermistor, has resistance values of 20 deg C (19.9) = 12.566K ohms 60 deg C (59.9) = 2.5K ohm 100 deg C (100.5) = 0.669K ohm So the mid point of the range we are wanting the readings to be most accurate, is 60 deg C, where the resistance of 2.5K ohm, is almost exactly the same as the bias resistor, at 2.49K ohm. That should provide good accuracy. I plugged all the three temp points & their corresponding ohm values, into the settings, in TS, & burnt it to the Speeduino processor. As the coolant measurement, will be in the 80-95 deg C range, most of the time, I decided to check it with the only standard high temperature, I have handy, which is boiling water. Off to the kitchen to "borrow" my wife's electric kettle. I suspended the probe inside, & it read 20 deg C, which was the ambient temp here this morning. Then I turned on the kettle & watched the temperature rise through the range in Tuner Studio, until it stopped at 100 deg C, just as it boiled. So fitted it to the engine, at the highest point of the water coolant system. Next sensor will be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which I've just pulled off my 7K EFO setup. P.S. I had been concerned that I was going to have to reroute the coolant drain cock, located directly below the water pump, whose removal was just blocked by the addition of the Toothed Wheel. However, I discovered if I rotated the engine, so that the "missing tooth", was opposite the end of the drain cock, it was possible to remove the drain cock, with a socket. Cheers Banjo

The toothed trigger wheel, can basically be mounted in four different rotational positions, which places the "missing tooth" section of the wheel, in four different positions, relative to TDC. All ECU's settings, have a "crank angle trigger" setting, that can usually be adjusted anywhere from 0-360 deg C, if the toothed wheel is on the crankshaft. However, most tuners suggest placing it, at around 70 - 90 deg ATDC, so it has plenty of time to do all the calculations, before the next firing. I placed my tooth wheel, in a position, I determined, to be appropriate, then rotated the crank, until the toothed wheel "missing tooth" section was level with the Hall sensor. The ECU recognises the first tooth after the missing tooth section, as the synch point. In my case, it is the rising edge of that first tooth. I then when around to the other end of the engine, where I have a large accurate degree wheel on the flywheel, & the angle the crank was in, was 102 deg ATDC. Very happy with that ! Very happy with the whole trigger wheel in general. Suggest, if anyone is interested, in obtaining a trigger wheel for their K series engine, then send Danel a PM, as he posted earlier in this thread, on page 1. So next task is to start testing the other various sensor inputs on the Speeduino. P.S. Anyone else here on Rollaclub forum, playing or running a Speeduino ECU at present ? Cheers Banjo

Found some manifold studs late yesterday, that were exactly the correct size & length, for attaching the 36:1 toothed wheel, to the 5K crankshaft pulley. 8mm M1.25 38mm long. The pic below, shows them fitted with some thread locker, in the pulley threads. Four (4) off 35mm OD thick 1/2" washers, Araldited together, made a perfect 9-10mm deep spacer, between the back of the toothed wheel, & the original washer face on the crankshaft pulley. That creates a gap of about 10mm between, between the back edge of the toothed wheel, & the crankshaft pulley V belt edge flange. It is important, that there is no ferrous material, very close to the teeth on the trigger wheel, if the best signal is to be produced from the sensor. This is not an issue, when this wheel is used, with a 3K or 4K crankshaft pulley, as they are only have a 110mm O.D., & the teeth are well clear from any surrounding ferrous metal, of the pulley. I found a website for for a USA manufacturer of trigger wheels, that suggests a clearance gap between the end of the tooth & the face of the Hall sensor, of 3-5 thou, per inch of diameter of the wheel. For this particular wheel, that works out about 0.46mm - 0.76mm clearance. So I assembled it all, & adjusted the sensor position, to one tooth, with a 0.5mm feeler guage. I then rotated the wheel, with the feeler across the face of the sensor, & it neither got looser or tighter, so I'm very happy with the eccentricity of the trigger wheel. Thanks Danel ! The bracket that the Hall sensor is attached to, should not be made of ferrous material, so the magnetic flux to the sensor, is not diverted or "drained", by nearby ferrous material. I have made my bracket out of a thick piece of thick aluminium, which you can spot in the pic above. This trigger wheel setup, is critical, as to whether the result is a flawless & reliable EFI performance or not, so I am making sure, at this point, that it is as good as I can get it. After it is assembled, I'll crank the engine over, & view the sensor pulse output, with an oscilloscope, to see how clean the pulses are. Cheers Banjo

Had to think about that one Pete ! I've never had an after market oil cooler, so have never considered that it could be fitted upside down. I gather, you are referring to drain back, (after engine shut down) , of the oil in the cooler, seeping back into the sump, if the cooler is mounted above the height of the sump, which most are. So the top hose on the oil cooler, should be connected to the "sandwich plate connection" under the oil filter, that comes from the oil pump outlet ? Cheers Banjo

So the 36:1 toothed trigger wheel for the 4K engine arrived, & is now fitted to my 5K engine. The 36:1 toothed wheel will fit 3K, 4K, & 5K crankshaft pulleys, as the mounting points are identical on each. The 3K & 4K crankshaft pullies, are about 110mm O.D., whereas the 5K crankshaft pully is about 145mm O.D. The toothed wheel is 155mm O.D. so sits nicely on the 5K pulley, with the teeth clear of the pulley edge, as seen in the above pic. The toothed wheel, will bolt straight up to the 3K & 4K pullies, but has to be spaced on the 5K pulley. My 5K crankshaft pulley is dished, to take additional pullies, & has a harmonic balancer built into it, so the toothed wheel will crush the harmonic rubber, if bolted up, without a spacer. The centre bolt also needs a spacer behind the toothed wheel, as there is a gap there to the crankshaft pulley, of about14-15mm. Likewise, the 4 off 8mm x 1.25M mounting bolts, will need to be about 35mm long, & need spacer tubes behind the toothed wheel. I'm actually going to use manifold studs, that happen do be available, in that exact size. Makes it a lot easier to assembly, than with bolts, & spacers behind the toothed wheel. This 36:1 toothed trigger wheel, is laser cut from 6mm thick plate, rather than being a machined one, which cost a lot more, to manufacture. Considering it is laser cut, it is of good quality. I set it up with a piece of clamped metal near the teeth, & measured the eccentricity, & lateral run-out, & it was much less than 1mm out. The best & easiest point, to mount the Hall tooth sensor, is off the K engine block A.C. bracket mounting points, just around the corner. You could make a fancy one, that was mounted off the "timing chain cover", but at this stage, that is a lot of work, & will have to wait until another day, when the timing chain cover is off for another reason. Last night, I temporarily hooked up a Honda Hall effect sensor, I got on ebay. I used one of these previously, for counting the starter teeth on the flywheel, & it worked well. I cranked the engine over, without spark plugs, & was greeted with a clean stream of pulses from the Hall sensor, via an opto-coupler & an LED, on a little board, that also produces a 0-5 volt square wave pulse train, for the Speeduino ECU input. Here is a good general video about crank & cam toothed wheel sensors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW0ENqcxNSg Now I know it all works, I'll take the toothed wheel off, & paint it, as being bare mild steel, it won't take long to rust, in our Qld. weather. Cheers Banjo

Trigger wheel arrived, so testing soon ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Josh, PM sent to you regarding Gregory's No: 184 manual. Cheers Banjo

Doubles as a quick & easy towing hook. Say No More ! Cheers Banjo

The long awaited Haltech R5 VCU, is now apparently available for sale, in the past few days. I've followed it's evolution with interest, as it is an entirely different concept. HALTECH NEXUS R5 VCU Despite being aimed squarely at the motor sport industry, it has the ability to be able to control just about everything, in an ordinary automobile, from just one controller/box. So gone is the ECU/EMS tag, & in with the VCU, which stands for Vehicle Control Unit. There appears to be enough outputs on this controller, such that every light, horn, windscreen washers/wipers, radio, etc., can be controlled from this VCU box. Explanation of Haltech Nexus R5  - VCU At around $ 5.5K, I doubt Rollaclub members will be flocking to buy something, that costs far more than most our Rollas are worth. However, it did cross my mind, how simple the wiring diagram would be. Battery, Alternator, Nexus R5, & a single wire to each electrical item in the car. No interlocks, no relays, no mass of wires behind the dash. How simple to trouble shoot ! P.S. It would almost do Altezzaclub, out of a job, tracing our electrical wiring diagrams, to asssist our RollaClub members, with "electrical issues". Cheers Banjo

Hi Darren, Yeah lots of fun coming up. The COPS are a natural progression of experimenting with different fuel & ignition alternatives, for our K series engines. I have previously had a 4K engine running in waste spark mode, using a couple of Commodore coils with two HV spark plug connections. The only problem with these; are that the spark travels/jumps in one direction, in one spark plug, & in the opposite direction on the other. That then requires expensive platinum plugs. The beauty of the COPs is, that each COP has it's own ignitor on board, & the input trigger signal is low voltage. Just parallel two COPS together, & they then fire in unison (waste spark) with the spark jumping the gap in the same/right direction. The Waste Spark system, also employs a simple triggering system, so you don't need to have a synchronising camshaft pulse, at all. Just awaiting the toothed wheel to arrive in the post, to start experimenting, with the Speeduino, which has been running perfectly, non stop, on the bench, for the last four (4) days. Cheers Banjo

From what you are advising, it sounds like you do not have any physical horns fitted to the car at all ! So first thing, is to get some form of horn, so you can test it out. You do not need to turn on the ignition, to produce a 12 volt supply to the horns. The horn circuit should be alive, in most cars, even when the ignition is off. That's why it shares a fuse with the Hazzard lights, which can be turned on, when the car is disabled on the side of the road, without the need for the ignition switch to be on. The horn ring in the steering wheel, is already connected to the chassis, so the spring loaded pin, should be connected to the horn/s. This is usually a single wire, on a small spade connector, that plugs into the rear of the steering wheel centre section. It may simply have not been plugged back in, when someone had the steering wheel dissembled previously. The circuit diagram above indicates that the horn/s are grounded or earthed to the chassis, directly by the horn ring switch. I have always liked to add a relay between the horns & the horn button, so the horn button, does not have to switch the full current of the horn/s. If you want to do this modification, give us a yell, once you have some working horns, & we'll provide a sketch, to assist you. Cheers Banjo

As you have never heard the horns work in your car, then the first thing I would do, before tracing wires & fuses etc, is ensure that the horns actually work. This is easy. I believe the horns on your car are located down between the grill & the radiator, one on each side. Disconnect the spade terminal leads from each horn. Take two pieces of wire, & connect or temporarily clip them each, to the battery terminals. Then touch the two wires from the battery across each horn's two spade contacts, to ensure they work. If that all works, then at least you know, the problem is wiring, fuses, or most probably, the horn contact switch in the steering wheel. I got so sick of my horn not working, because of the horn ring contact wearing, that I converted my horn button to wireless. Horn button contact wear problem eliminated forever ! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75658-ke3055-horn-steering-wheel-contact-ring/ Cheers Banjo.

Hi Mark, Welcome back ! I figure you are talking about these vents ? I figure you are talking about Depending how bad the rust/cancer is, you can only improve the strength in this area, by welding a piece of sheet metal, over the exposed holes, depending on how far back, around the hole, you have to cut, to rid yourself of the rust. Venting the boot, depends on how the existing tank is vented. Later model KEs had a vent line that went right back to the engine, with a little plastic valve, before it fed into the air cleaner. However, early KEs, just had a line that went up into the roof almost, (to prevent siphoning), before the pipe just dropped down to under the rear of the car, to atmosphere. I had a KE55 Coupe 1979 vintage, & the area, I'd me more concerned with, is the metal between the rear & side windows. This is a crucial part of the KE55 Coupe's body work, as being of pillarless construction, it relies on that area between the roof & lower body, for rigidity. Toyota, rightly placed about 4-5 layers of metal in this area, to provide extra strength, but it was raw unprimed, unpainted metal. It is very prone to rust, when water creeps in, through the rear glass rubbers; particularly down at the bottom corners. Unfortunately, this is an area you cannot readily inspect. 1979 Ke55 Coupe R.I.P. I remember when I cut my KE55 coupe up, to sell the rear floor area for a wide rear wheel mod, I was horrified, when I cut the roof off in this area. Don't know how you can really check this are out. Maybe, place the car on a flat concrete pad, & jack each front corner of the car up, one at a time, as high as you can go, to create some torsional twist in the body. Maybe, someone could put their ear to this area in the rear upper quarters, & listen to hear whether there are any not so nice noises, as a result. Others, on here, may care to share their views on this "dark area" of our beloved Rollas. Cheers Banjo

Here is another source of genuine Toyota KE20 strut tops, if the Amayama option doesn't play out. https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-support-sub-assy-fr-4860912030 Cheers Banjo

Hi Rune, This depiction, is probably how your alternator is hooked up. The battery connection on your alternator is not one of those three (3) light wires. The battery connection, is the very heavy terminal, just showing in the top of your pic of the alternator connections, with the big "B" next to it. The three (3) wires, are most likely, the same as the IG (ignition), S (sense battery voltage), & L (light - charge) in the above depiction. So if you can determine which wire one is the charge light, which shouldn't be too hard, both remaining wires go to the battery. One via the ignition switch, & one directly to the battery. That last one, would be connected to the fusible link, which is usually very close to the battery terminal itself. P.S. Most of the alternators we have in Australian Rollas, with internal regulators, only have two (2) wires. The battery sense, is quite often, just connected internally inside the alternator, to the "B" terminal. Let us know what you find. Cheers Banjo

Giday Rune, Thanks for the pics. Is that a four poster hoist, you've got your Rolla sitting ? I wish I had one of them ! With this "thin" radiator you have found, I presume you are still going to remove that bulky clutch / fan arrangement, & still fit an electric thermofan. Is the alternator one with an external or internal regulator ? I thought I spied a box on the engine bay wall, just across from the turbo, that looked like it could be an external regulator ? If the alternator is the original, that came with the 2TG motor, then it shouldn't be too hard to find a wiring diagram for it, to see where those three (3) wires go to. The other way is to strip the ends of each of them, a little & check the continuity to other wires in the likely places, with the same colour code. Is it a Bosch alternator ? Has it got a model number on it anywhere ? I suspect it is an alternator, with a built-in regulator, so any wiring diagram, will indicate where those three wires go to. Charge Warning light ? Ignition Switch ? Battery ? Do a little research, & you should be able to solve it. Start off with the Charge warning light. That one will be easy, & then that only leaves two (2) off. Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel, I'll certainly take a few pics of the 36:1 trigger wheel, when I receive it. Wow, that's a lovely looking Rolla you have there. I love it's stance, & the wheels. What other mods have you done to it ? Is the engine stock ? You might be interested in the COP setup, I have made for my 4K/5K, which should hook up to the Speeduino easily, either sequentially, or wasted spark, paralleling them up in pairs. One of the usual problems with these long stemmed COPs, is that they get very hot; being basically inside the head. With my arrangement, & all that air passing around them, that won't be an issue for me. Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel, Beautiful picture ! Thanks. What model Speeduino board are you using ? The V0.3 or V0.4 PCB ? I've got a V0.37 kit, which I put together at the end of last year, but haven't had a chance to test, or hook it up, until this horrible COVID-19 thing, slowed us all up. I've actually got it running on the bench right now, & testing all the inputs & outputs using Studio Tuner, with latest firmware. I presume you are running your Speeduino in "distributor" mode, or have you got 4 off seperate coils, or maybe 2 off coils & waste spark ? What sort of enclosure did you put your Speeduino in, & where did you mount it ? Under the bonnet, or under the dash, inside somewhere ? The V0.37 board doesn't seem to have enough mounting holes in the boards, to mount it securely. Would be interested how you fared with yours, whereas the V0.4 seems to be specifically designed for an enclosure. If there any other Rollaclub members, who have used a Speeduino successfully, you might like to add your thoughts, in this thread. Love to hear from you. One of the advantages of "machined" trigger wheels, is, that if they are centred perfectly, the gap between the Hall sensor tip, & the end of each tooth, is pretty precise. Have you rotated your laser cut ones, & measured the clearance with the sensor tip with a feeler guage to see what variation you obtained ? Sorry about all the questions, but I hope to have it up & running, as soon as I receive the 36:1 trigger wheel next week. Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel, Thanks for that larger photo ! I suggested in this thread earlier, that an ideal point to mount the Hall Sensor bracket, would be to two (2) mounting points, on the lower front edge of the 4K block, where the A/C mounting bracket was attached. Looks like you might have used those holes also. Could you provide us with a picture from the side, so that it depicts the whole bracket assembly ? Thanks ! Banjo

Hi Pete, Has your part book got the P/N for the KE20 strut tops ? Without part number, I could not check availability with Amayama. I placed an enquiry with Amayama yesterday, describing part, but now they need chassis number. I thought I had found it on the web yesterday, but it turned out to be a front indicator orange lense. Cheers Banjo

Hi Mason, There are two types of 5 speed boxes available for the your KE Series. There was one that came out of KE55 Coupes (about 1979), that has the gear shifter coming out through the floor, in the exact same spot as the 4 speed. There is the 5 speed GB out of the KE70, that has the extension on the rear, so that the shifter point is further back. This is probably the preferred option, but does require cutting a hole in the floor, & changing the rear gearbox mount & cross brace, to the KE70 one. Both these options are a straight bolt up to a 3K-4K-5K engine. Just keep searching, & you may come across one. I got one, from a guy several years ago on the Gold Coast who was cleaning out a garage, because they were moving. He only wanted $100 for it. When I inspected it, on the garage floor, it was attached to a 4KC engine. I said I'll take it, so you'll have to unbolt it for me. Bugger that, he says . . . just take the lot. Luckily, I had the trailer on behind my car, so we slid engine & gearbox, up into the trailer, & I was off, in case he changed his mind. Turns out the 4K was in good nick, so I'll mark that purchase down with a big tick against it ! Only issue with the 5 speed boxes are that parts for repair of same are getting very rare, including bearings. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Pete ! I've learnt something today. A few years ago, I refurbished all my KE30's, ball joints, tie rod ends, & pivot point, with "555" branded parts, which I purchased on-line. I remember at the time of installing, thinking, these are really good quality, & look exactly like the originals, I'd just removed. Now I know why ! Thanks. Banjo

Amayama might be the go ? You really need to have the original OEM part number, to make it easy, but it's amazing how much brand new stuff they have for olde Japanese cars. Some parts are expensive, but others, I've been presently surprised. Very fast delivery to Australia, as they apparently consolidate everything for Australia, into one shipment, & then deliver out of a warehouse somewhere in a southern suburb of Sydney. https://www.amayama.com/en Cheers Banjo

I think that KE38 sold for about $ 7.5K a year or so ago. It wasn't original. It had been resprayed etc. off memory.