Banjo

Hi Luca, There are pros & cons to what you are considering. Pros: K50 box from a KE70 is your simplest & best option, as your KE38 is already manual. K50 box from a KE70, has the gearstick further back. K50 box from a KE55 has gearstick in same position as your K40 box. Plenty of threads on this forum, regarding change over. Cons: Good K50 (from KE70) gearboxes are getting hard to find, & most are getting "long in the tooth". (no pun intended) You'll need to cut hole in the tunnel, for if you use K50 box from a KE70. You'll need rear gearbox mount & support, as well. Parts for them are now scarce, including bearings. Conclusion: I did a K50 from KE70 conversion to my KE30 2 door years ago. It was originally a 3 speed auto, so involved pedal box as well. What you are considering is fairly easy, as there is no hydraulic clutch mod required. If you are going to thrash the 5 speed box, then the k50 will suffer. However, my K50 was popped in, without overhaul, & I don't thrash it, but give it plenty of stick, & it has been as reliable as ever. P.S. If you do get a K50, then minimum you should replace is the rear prop shaft oil seal. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jack, No, I haven't progressed with the A/C addition to my KE30. I suspect, that taking the dash out, & getting at the heater box, & modifying it, is going to be the real challenge. Horrible getting in there, when you are relatively long. Have pinched the mounting points on the front LH bottom corner, of the block, where the A/C mounts, for a trigger wheel Hall Sensor mount. Might have to move that to somewhere else, before the A/C project progresses. Found an alternative ! On hot steamy days, I just borrow my daughters Toyota Echo which has A/C. Cheers Banjo

Thank you for that. That will make it easier, when I do the 'inquisitive kid" thing, & pull it all to pieces, to "see how it works". http://mazdaepc.com/parts/121/AEDA03/C2/1364/ Just looking through that parts list, it has all the necessary sensors to hook up to an ECU. Air flow Sensor P/N 13210B Throttle Position sensor P/N 189101 Idle Solenoid P/N 13XKX Looking promising for a 3K / 4K Aisin standard carby upgrade. Cheers Banjo

Well, after all this time, I finally have come across one of these Mazda 121 single injector carbies. It should be here in the next few days, so I'll pull it to pieces, see how it ticks, & see whether it really is an easy task to adapt it to the K series inlet manifold. Cheers Banjo

Oh yeah ! They can get extremely blocked, particularly towards the rear of the block & head, where flow rates drop. Very early head gaskets for the K series engines, had coolant holes that perfectly matched the flow-thro matching coolant holes in the block & head. Later head gaskets, from several manufacturers, blocked flow-thro holes in the head gasket around cylinders 1 & 2, to force the flow from block to head, to only occur at the rear two cylinders. This was an attempt to assist the issues with higher temps at the back of the engine & head. In Misael's case, if the coolant system, hasn't had a lot of attention for a long time, and there isn't the opportunity to do a complete strip down, I would suggest. 1. Remove the radiator. 2. Remove top & bottom radiator hoses. 3. Turn off the heater water cock. It wouldn't be needed in Arizona, me thinks. 4. Remove thermostat. 5. With a hose, with as much pressure as possible, flush the system out. First in one direction, & then in the other. 6. Like wise flush out the radiator, by it self; again, in both directions. 7. When all signs of colour & debri in the water disappear, reassemble the complete coolant system. 8. Fill the system with clean water, & make sure there are no air locks left in the system. 9. Get hold a good coolant passage "cleaner additive" & add to the coolant, & drive car for a week or upto 1000 klms. 10. Remove hoses & drain & flush again. 11. If the coolant system corrosion is very bad, then you might have to repeat 4-10 again for another week. 12. When the system is nice & clean, add a high performance, high temperature coolant liquid, & it should be good for a number of years. After doing this exercise, be aware there is always the possibility of welch plugs breaking through, where heavy rust on the rear (where you can't see it) has been diminished by the chemical cleaning process. It is important, when doing this exercise, that hoses are removed, The regular drain holes in the bottom of the radiator, & the front of the block, are too small to allow all the larger bits of crud that get released, to pass out of the system. P.S. If the system is very badly corroded, then remove water pump & have a look inside. If it is very bad, or there is noticeable movement or noise from its bearing, then replace water pump. Sounds like a lot of mucking around, but if done properly, your engine will love you. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Your link works fine ! The thermostats don't appear to be very expensive on-line there in the USA, so go for it. Make sure you order a Hi-Flow model, as you live in Arizona, & make sure you get the exact model thermostat, that will fit your particular Toyota 2TC engine. P.S. No question is regarded as being "dumb", on this forum. We are all learning, every day. Cheers Banjo

Thermostats are easy to remove & test. Put it in a saucepan on the stove, & heat the water up from cold, until is just starts to boil. If you suspend it, in the saucepan, you can clearly watch it open. If that works OK, that's one thing to tick off your list. The thermostat it such a relatively inexpensive replacement part, that many people, including myself, just replace them, every 3-5 years, as a matter of course, & upgrade to one of the Hi Flow models. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Altezzaclub's comment . . . . is an important one. The obstruction in water jackets in the block & head, severely hinder coolant movement, from getting to where it needs to be, around the cylinder walls. A good professional engine builder, will always remove all welch plugs, and chemically & pressure cleanout all the "crud", inside. I make it a rule, to always knock out the welch plugs, & clean out the "inner sanctums" of the block, when I have a block out on the bench. Most manufacturers use steel welch plugs, usually zinc plated. However, even the zinc plated plugs eventually rust. I've been amazed often, that an apparently good looking welch plug, can be incredibly thin, with corrosion, from the rear. To assist in removing a welch plug, I have always drilled a hole through the middle, or hit in the middle, to release a bit of pressure on the welch plug walls. The number of times, the drill or punch, has just broken through easily, has enforced my views on this subject. When replacing welch plugs, I always use brass ones. They don't rust or corrode as easily. Factories use zinc plated steel, because they cost slightly less, & they freeze them, before insertion, to achieve a tighter grip. Many object that the softer brass ones, don't have as much holding tension. However, if brass welch plugs are used, with a good quality hardening sealer, designed for this application, then that is the way to go. The other consideration is the way you install the plug. The very best way, is to use a correct size dolly, that allows you to tap in the plug, on the outer edge. Most engines suffer from unequal cylinder wall temperatures. The coolant flow entering & exiting the block/head at the front, usually results in the rear cylinders always running hotter. Unfortunately, the lower flows at the rear, result in more crud building up at the back of the engine. In our K series engines, it is easy to have coolant temps at no: 4, being up to 15 deg C, higher than those at no: 1. K series owners, will attest to this, with many experiencing, the plate on the back of the head, rusting out. I've taken these plates off previously, & it was totally blocked behind it, with crud & corrosion. I've fitted a coolant outlet to the plate at the back of my engine, & externally returned the coolant to the thermostat housing at the front of the engine. It lowered the differential coolant temp, between front & rear of the head, to just a few degrees C. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Woo ! 110+ F for 50 consecutive days. I know Arizona is a hot state, but that's pretty extreme. That's why I asked. Here in Australia, in the interior desert areas, we have similar places with records like that. I once worked at a place in Western Australia, (Marble Bar) before Australia went "metric" to Celcius, where it held the Australian record for 100 consecutive days, with the temperature never dropping below 100 deg F. night & day. Coolant/engine temps are a very misunderstood parameter. Engines are designed, such that the block in particular, is held at a reasonably narrow ideal temperature range, to allow all clearance dimensions to be, "as designed". If an engine runs at temps for prolonged periods, either above or below this band (typically 175 - 195 F / 80 - 90 C) then there are consequences. That's why it is important, that an engine warms up quickly, before you put it to work. One of the real reasons, taxis get such very long engine lives, is that typically, they never get cold, as typically three drivers doing 3 off 8 hour shifts, results in the taxi, never getting cold. Coolant systems often get neglected, but attention to all the components of the coolant system, I mentioned earlier, are important. When we are working with engines as old as our Rolla engines are, especially with cast iron, & alloy components, the problem of coolant passage corrosion can be severe. The best thing you could possible do to your Rolla, is replace the original brass/copper radiator with a aftermarket 2 core aluminum one. Here in Australia, they are freely available on ebay, at around AUD 200+. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=corolla+KE+radiator&_sacat=0 I presume you have access to something similar in the USA. If not, then find a late model aluminum radiator, that fits, from another younger car. Toyota/Nissan/Mitsi The efficiency of an aluminum alloy radiator, (in terms of removing heat) compared to the OEM originals, is like chalk & cheese. One of the best things I ever modified on my 43 year olde Rolla was fit an aluminum radiator. The second best thing I did, was get rid of the mechanically driven fan, that sucks so much power from the engine, & fit a thermofan. If you can find a late model radiator, from another car, that already has an integral thermofan, then you have "killed two birds, with one stone", so to speak. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Is your current coolant system setup over heating, or losing water ? Have you done all the regular coolant system maintenance, like replace thermostat & radiator cap ? Has the radiator core been cleaned professionally ? Changed coolant completely ? Checked water pump, fan belt, or replaced ? Has there been any performance mods been carried out on your 2TC, that may have added heat load to the coolant cooling system ? If all above has been carried out, & you still have issues, a 3 core aluminum radiator with an aftermarket thermofan, will greatly help. How hot does it get to in the area/location in Arizona, where you use your Rolla ? Cheers Banjo

I think the 7K dizzy body was slightly larger in diameter, than the one for the 5K, but the ignitor & VR sensor are the same. Both engines made for commercial vehicles, so the advance / retard curves would be very similar. http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=651150&cartype=100&fig=1902 I think I might have a 7K body floating around in the shed. I'll take a look. Toyota used both Bosch & Denso dizzies, & the Bosch was the bigger of the two. If your dizzy is cactus, don't throw it away. Fit an Accuspark Hall trigger / ignitor pack, & you'll have a great setup. Good idea, to strip out the mounting plate, inside the dizzy first, & see what state the centifugal advance bob weights & springs are in. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, There was a good discussion about this subject, here on Rollaclub, some (10) years ago. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42941-how-to-wire-a-5k-electronic-distributor/ The Yellow Bible (Toyota factory Manual) advises that the total primary resistance, should be about 1.9 ohms. Just don't use one of the very low ohm hi energy coils, or you run the risk of burning out the inbuilt ignitor in the dizzy. I've run a coil with 1.6 ohm primary for many years, with my 5K electronic dizzy, & never had an issue. Even if you do lose an ignitor, don't throw away the dizzy, as it is a simple job, to remove the ignitor, & bring the variable Reluctance (VR) two (2) wires out, & feed into a Bosch external ignitor, (P/N BIM024) designed for VR triggering. Actually, there was a good how-to on Toymods, on this subject at https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/24609-Converting-to-a-Bosch-Ignition-Module-(Reluctor-Dizzys) Cheers Banjo

That's Great ! Wonderful to think there are still Rolla lovers out there, searching posts from 13 years ago, that are still relevant, & assisting them. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, I came across this one on ebay this morning. A 52mm fuel guage @ universal sender unit for just $ 23.00. Free postage. It might take a couple of weeks to get here, but at that price, even if you only used the sender unit, it is a bargain. ebay Listing for Fuel Guage & Sender Unit At that price, it is worth grabbing one, just to experiment with. Cheers Banjo

Mad Europeans ! But I want to see it in action. Think this entrant, makes an entrance, about half way through this video. Mad ! Mad ! Mad ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxlFvwsLAXM Cheers Banjo

Here is a "feel good" story on the ABC website today, with a few thoughts, as to why we collect & restore olde vehicles. Psychologically, it is apparently good for us. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2020-09-09/historic-classic-vintage-cars-used-as-company-vehicles-in-darwin/12637120 The related stories below this article, are also a good read. In one of them, there is mention made of the original QANTAS hanger in Darwin, where a group of enthusiasts, restore anything vehicle or machinery wise. It is open to the public, & one of the best Saturdays, I have ever spent. if you ever get a chance to visit, DO SO ! https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attraction_Review-g255066-d8744578-Reviews-1934_Qantas_Hangar-Darwin_Top_End_Northern_Territory.html#photos;aggregationId=101&albumid=101&filter=7 Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, I purchased a Faria fuel guage from ebay, a while back. Faria 52mm Fuel Guage I was using it, to play around with on the bench. It has a nice blue LED background illumination. With 12 volt connected to it, 240 ohms = Empty & 33 ohms = full. I imagine the SASS fuel guage will be similar. I like the classic guage appearance, & am having second thoughts, about the LED Bar-O-Graph one I've built. I was thinking of feeding a "time proportional" grounded signal into the sensor terminal, to get it to read correctly, for each of the multi-point enclosed fuel sender's switch points, that I've had so much success with. Off memory, I think I tried the Faria guage, with my fuel sender, in the KE30, & it read backwards. Not sure if you are going to find a guage a bit larger in diameter than 52mm. There are some that combine multiple read-outs, in one guage, & they are about 100mm in dia. You will probably come across the same problem, all of us on Rollaclub have regarding fuel guage sender units. They all wear out, & genuine replacement sender units are extremely hard to find. That's why my quest, was to come up, with something that didn't require the original sender unit at all. Let me know how you go. If your existing level sender unit in the KE55 tank is cactus, then you may have to look at other alternatives, as I had to. P.S. Came across this for sales on ebay Australia today. Genuine NOS KE20 Nippon Denso Fuel sensor never used. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-KE20-Fuel-Tank-Fuel-Gauge-Sender-Unit-NOS/324288243082?hash=item4b8115e58a:g:W78AAOSw69dfU3Un Cheers Banjo

I notice Episode 32 of Project Binky is out ! They still haven't got the Toyota motor in the Mini as yet ! All I want to hear, is it start up for the first time ! Looks like we'll still have to wait a while; . . . . . . . . apparently, in the next Episode 33, they are going to paint the Mini's body. And I thought my long term projects were slow. At the rate these guys are going, by the time the car is finished, the pair of them will be in a nursing home, & Project Binky, will be straight off to an auto museum somewhere in the UK. At least with OverHaulin on Channel 9 atm, you see a whole car get completely rebuilt in a week, from the chassis up, in a 30 minute episode. P.S. They'll probably just get it finished, then decide to go electric, & start all over again. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Does the guage in your KE55 not work at all; is intermittent; or just reads inaccurately ? If it is not working at all, it may simply be that the voltage regulator, on the rear of the dash cluster, has "given up the ghost" Taking out the fuel sender, can be a pain in the arse, as in the KE-55, the sender unit, is mounted in the centre / top of the tank, & the tank has to come out, to extract the fuel sender unit. To check the sender, without removing unit, trace the wire from the sender down to "connection point" into the forward harness, just near the rear drivers side wheel arch. Note the colour of the wire in the forward harness. Pick up this wire, behind the plastic side panel, adjacent to the drivers right foot. Disconnect it. Connect a wire to the wire disconnected wire, going to the rear of the car. Hook it up to a multimeter on "ohms/resistance" range, with the other probe connected to a good ground. That should read the resistance of the fuel sender. If it reads zero, then there is a short circuit. If it reads open circuit, then the sender is open circuit. If it reads between say 10 ohms & 200 ohms, then it is working. Leave the meter on & fill up the tank, & see if it works. Saves a lot of mucking around, taking the tank out, if it finishes up, not being necessary. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Somewhere around 3 ohm to 110-120 ohms, off memory. Search this forum, as there are a number of posts regarding this matter. I had the same problem as you, & gave away the idea of using a substitute sender unit. Some sender units go low - hi ohms. Others go hi - low ohms. Dependents on whether vehicle it came from originated in Europe or the USA. Different standards. You might like to have a read of this thread, I put together. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76685-cleaning-inside-of-fuel-tank/ Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Have you tried these guys in Castle Hill, in NSW ? https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/performance/hoses-kits/silicone-hoses Cheers Banjo

Stunning with that lovely blue sky behind it. I just had a look from the top side, as the live webcams there are updated every 5 minutes. Must be very cold up there. Looks like icicles are hanging over the lens of the camera ? P.S. Unfortunately, I can't spot your house from there ! Cheers Banjo

That's fantastic ! Well done. Had to look up on the Tassie map to see where Meehan & Tangara were. I'd forgotten how clear the air is down there. Believe most of those runs might have a bit of the "white stuff" on them this morning ! Will be talking to a business colleague in Longford today, where I believe they got a heap of snow overnight ! Cheers Banjo

"trout & a mote" We've got the great white & the great barrier reef ! & the big Pineapple ! Free entry, up until Saturday 8th August !

What am I getting myself into here ? https://www.theactivetimes.com/healthy-living/10-signs-you-may-have-obsessive-compulsive-disorder One of the ten (10) primary signs, you have OCD is . . . . . . . . "You scrub, clean, polish, vacuum, dust, and shine, but it’s still not enough. Over-cleaning is a sign of OCD. A person may be compulsively cleaning because they are trying to prevent spreading or being harmed, or because contamination may make them uncomfortable. Either way, individuals become so obsessed with cleanliness that it may start to interfere with their everyday lives." No, I'm not going there; although, I do remember, I used to polish the chrome handle bars on my push bike a lot, when I was a kid. What am I getting myself into here ? Could the affliction, be coming back/returning ? Better see the doctor tomorrow. Hope Medibank covers it ? Cheers Banjo