Banjo

Hi Lewis, Build up of carbon in an IAC valve will stop it working properly. Even a small bit of carbon, will stop it. Have a look at this video, & see if your valve is like this one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOUB1UiDkKc If your IAC has severe carbon build up, you may have to replace the whole IAC valve assembly. You would be surprised how a little bit of hard carbon, inside the IAC, on the vanes, can prevent them from working properly. There is also the possibility that the actuator is faulty. I still wouldn't write off, the possibility of a leaking gasket somewhere of the inlet manifold, between the throttle body & the head, if the IAC works well. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, 1600 - 1800 rpm idling, is a bit high alright. Few questions. 1. Did this happen suddenly, after it had been OK for a long time ? 2. Did anything else happen to the car just before this became apparent ? (had you been working on the engine) 3. Is it a steady high idle, or "wavering around" between 1600-1800 rpm ? High idling, is usually caused by too much air. That could be caused by an air leak into the induction system, on the engine side of the throttle box butterfly. (failed gasket ?) It could also be that the bottom stop of the butterfly movement is set too high. It is usually set so the butterfly 'edge" does not bang up against the inner wall of the dicast throttle body. However, I came across one recently, which was set a bit too wide, & therefore stopped the IAC valve from controlling properly, & doing it's thing. P.S. Do you have an aftermarket ECU fitted to this engine ? Trust this starts us off, in ultimately helping you solve this issue. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Is there any particular reason, you need to change the carburetor to a Webber ? You pointed out early, that you wanted to keep it as original as possible. For a car with 83-84k on it in 41 years, the wear & tear on the car mechanically, will be minimal. However, simply, " time" can deteriorate alloys & metals, & a device like a dicast carby body can corrode inside, if left standing for years. My suggestion, would be, to remove the carby, & dissemble completely, or give it to a professional, if you don't feel comfortable pulling it to pieces. They will put it in a cleaning bath, & the whole unit will come back like new. If inspection after dissembling, indicates it is "passed it's prime", then by all means have a look at alternatives, & the Webber is a good one. I would imagine, if this Rolla, has spent it's life in a dry climate like Arizona, that corrosion, is not a major issue, hopefully. If you want a little more power out of the car, then there are several things we would suggest. Change the oil & filter more regularly, for the first 10K. Take it for a few long drives away from the city on highway roads, where you can open it up, & "let it breath". Have the distributor professionally dissembled & cleaned. (particularly under the plate where the advance springs & bob weights reside). Drain & clean the fuel tank, & replace fuel filter. The other thing, is to replace the exhaust muffler, if it is original. It could well be the restrictive area to good through flow. It is probably possible, that the head has never come off this engine, in 41 years. A valve grind & decoke, plus a new head gasket, will also be a treat for the engine. You will be surprised how attention to all these little things accumulatively, could reawaken your little "olde" Rolla. We wish you all the best with your new acquisition. As I said before; there are a lot of people around the world, reading your post, that are very envious; yours truly included. Cheers Banjo

Been a couple of months, but it's been a slow & different year for everyone I guess. The Speeduino ECU underwent all the bench tests, & has finally migrated to the garage, & got hooked up to the 5K engine on the stand, controlling the ignition initially, in full sequential COP mode. After setting up the initial tooth wheel settings, the engine fired up, first time, & was rock steady, on the strobe timing light. The trigger clamp on the timing light, designed to go around a spark plug lead, would not go around the exposed COP tube. I used a work around, as pictured above, but discovered that the sensor would trigger the timing light, if it was placed close to the head of the COP. It worked perfectly. The removal of the distributor, requires it being replaced by a dummy drive shaft, to allow the camshaft to continue to drive the all important oil pump. An old 3K Denso dizzy cut down, with a 35mm cup type welch plug as a cover, provided a perfect dummy drive shaft. The synch pulse from the camshaft is provided by a Hall effect sensor that is mounted on the timing chain cover, detecting a single rare earth magnet, fitted to the camshaft sprocket. So a week or so, playing around with all the Speeduino settings, & then it will be onto the next stage, of fitting my 7K EFI throttle box & inlet manifold, & hooking up all the fueling requirements. P.S. For those of us, familiar with rotating the dizzy to set initial timing, & watching the timing marks jump backwards & forwards, at idle, due to the slop & take up in chain & drive to the dizzy; the first thing you notice about crank toothed trigger wheel triggering; is how rock steady & accurate it is. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, It would be highly unlikely that Toyota would switch a 15A circuit through the small switches in the lighting stalk. Put the 15A fuse in, switch the fog light stalk on, & then go look for a +12V signal somewhere. When you find it, pull the 15A fuse out, & make sure the +12V disappears. If there is no relay provided, then use this +12V switched signal to power a relay, which will feed another +12V fused circuit to your fog-lamps, as per the sketches, earlier in this thread. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, If there is a factory original harness down behind the fog lights, that is not used, then that is probably for the fog lights. If you have hooked it up, you will need to add a plug-in relay, for the fog-lights to work. Toyota would not provide a relay, if there was no fog lights fitted. However, the harness & relay/fuse box would be wired for fog lights, & all you should have to do, is add relay & fuse to the relay/fuse box. Should be a goer. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, Is the headlight stalk, assembly, with fog light switch built in, identical to your currently fitted one, except the foglight switch function ? If so, & the plug at the end of it lead is the same as your current one, I see no reason why it can't be used. If the plug & socket is easily accessible, I'd be unplugging the installed one, & plugging in the "fog light" one, & see if all the light switching functions still work, before swapping them out. Cheers Banjo

Have dissembled & cleaned this Mazda 121 EGi (Electronic Gasoline Injection), cross between a carby & a throttle body. It appears to be made by Hitachi, including the TPS & MAF sensors. Trying to discover it's design criteria, & how it works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a running Mazda 121, with an EGi "carby" fitted, which would provide a broader input, & something to play with, & take some measurements. However, I was able to download a free Factory workshop Manual, that did throw light into where all those ofrifices going in & out of the dicast body. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.manualslib.com/download/1031156/Mazda-121.html The whole design is quite simple, & does, (as I hoped) lack the tiny little internal passages in the dicaste body, like our common Aisin carby, with it's idle, low, & main fuel jets & paths within, which can be so problematic. The EGi unit, has a mechanical screw idle adjustment, with initial mechanical coolant temperature idle adjustment, when the engine is cold. Once the engine warms up, the electronic bypass valve comes into play. So the EGi is a mixture of olde world mechanical & new world electronic control. The EGi is manufactured in two pieces. The top casting includes the single injector & integral fuel rail. The bottom half is the throttle body proper. Top half of the EGI, viewed from the bottom, clearly displaying the single injector discharge point, smack in the middle of the venturi. Top view of the previous pic, The "fuel rail" passes straight across the casing, pressured fuel entering on the LHS, & the fuel pressure regulator, with return & atmospheric compensation on the RHS. The MAF sensor fits to the flat on the bottom of this pic. The resistive elements are in the hole are in the airstream through the dished hole, which then swirls around, & re-enters the venturi above the butterfly, through two openings. Same pic, but with the cover removed to show the injector snuggly fitted in the centre. Top view of the throttle body. The thermostatic idle control for cold engine is seen in the top RH corner of picture. I want to take the injector out, to ultrasonically clean it, but have not been able to remove it, as yet. It appears that you push it back up, but it won't budge, & I don't want to apply any more pressure, in case I crack or break the dicast "bridge" across the venturi. Suggestions welcome. From Manual: P.S. Just got it out. There are two (2) "O" rings supporting it, as I thought, but being old & hard, & stiff, they took a bit of budging. Here are pics, with injector removed. This is the cold engine idle control, which is disengaged, once the coolant reaches temp. Have measured it compressed length at room temp, then dropped it in a saucepan of hot water, withdrew it, & measured it again, to ensure it had expanded. Works well. One trick I found worked well, last night, while tracing the passage ways in the body, was to shine an LED pencil light into a hole, in a dark room, & then pier into the other holes, to see which ones were joined. There was enough reflection from the passageway walls, that you could see the light around bends & corners. Cheers Banjo

More on the subject of Concentric Slave Cylinder conversions, can be found at this other thread on RollaClub https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77940-upper-thermostat-housing/#comments

That's good ! I can't imagine that Catalytic Converters were fitted by Toyota, back in 1979. I like that wording of Historic/Classic, in the same sentence. I would regard our early Rollas, as classics, but never "historic". I went to an all British Car show in Sydney a couple of years ago, & there certainly were some "historic" olde cars there. Cheers Banjo

Pretty strict there I think, from what I've read, although there are references to "whether you drive the car, in the cities like Phoenix & Tuson". Maybe if you live out in the sticks, anything goes, same as in Australia. I did read that old catalytic converters, are not to be sold, included in scrap metal. Did spot this one on the web. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, I'd definitely go "catless" ! With a pussy cat in your exhaust system, it tends to attract lots of other cats . . . . . . . . . . . & dogs. On top of that, the incessant meowing would drive you crazy ! Keep in touch Cheers Banjo

Barrel diameter is exactly 40mm. Certainly got possibilities. Certainly a lot simper in design, because the injector can provide a very wide range of fuel control. My guess is, that when I open it up, & look inside, there will be a lot less little passageways, particularly in respect to the idling circuit, which is so problemomatic on the Aisin carbies, when they get old, & block up. What I thought was a fuel cut-off solenoid, I just realised is an idle actuator to control air around the butterfly, which closes totally, when at idle. I'll take some more pics, once I get it dissembled. I found these comments in a review of the Mazda 121, on line. "Like the car it replaced, the 121 sedan used a 1.3-litre, four-cylinder engine, but that's where the similarities stopped in their tracks. The later car's engine was a completely new design and used four valves per cylinder operated by a single overhead camshaft. Electronic fuel injection was still far from universal in 1990, and the littlest Mazda used single-point injection (basically an electronic carburettor) to put out 54kW of power at 6,000rpm and 106Nm or torque at 3,700rpm. At around-town speeds, the car felt pretty lively, but stretch the cruising speed and there wasn't always a lot left in reserve for overtaking or battling headwinds. Mechanical thrashing and noise was another downside of the 121's engine, and while it was no worse than most small cars when really wrung out, it still managed to make lots of racket when really pushed. At least Mazda stacked most of the performance reasonably low down in the rev range, so the engine didn't need to be worked too hard to deliver. The five-speed manual gearbox made the most of what was available under the 121's bonnet, although a lot of buyers gravitated towards the optional four-speed auto, which is never as satisfying to drive and makes the driver work the engine harder." Cheers Banjo

Had one of these Mazda 121 "Injector Carbies", delivered to me last weekend, by a mate of mine. It came off a car at a wreckers that were closing down, so only cost $ 20. I haven't cleaned it as yet. The pics below, are just as I have received it. The little red/orange/black wires, are ones I've attached to the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), so I could test it with my Speeduino ECU. It worked perfectly. It has an idle control valve, MAF Sensor, & the injector built-in, with leads & plugs already attached. Just have to get a plug for the TPS & AFS. The injector appears to be a low impedance one, as I measured it at around 2.0 ohms, with my multimeter. So now I'll strip it, & give it a good clean, & see how it ticks", inside, & then design a mating plate, which will allow it to be attached to the K Series inlet manifold flange, in place of the original Aisin carby. Cheers Banjo

Hi Mate, By "nut", do you mean the oil drain plug ? Have have you damaged it ? Photo please. If you have a plug that a spanner or wrench won't fit the hex, any longer, because it is damaged, then it is not going to help by removing the sump, as the oil drain plug does not extend inside the sump. As long as there is some on the plug left, you should be able to put a "grip-all" type wrench on it, & get it off. A sharp cold chisel, on the edge, might also help just get the tension off it. VISE-GRIP You could get someone to weld a bar across it, to give you some leverage, as long as the sump plug is iron, although this technique is a bit risky on an engine, with lots of oil & petrol around. Last resort, would be to grind the plug flat, centre punch the centre of the plug, & drill a hole right through the middle. Be careful when breaking through, as the oil will drain out. After the oil has drained out, drill the hole to a larger size, & fit a large "easi-out" reverse type tap. Hope one of those suggestions works for you. If none of those suggestions assist, then Google might be your best friend. Removing Damaged Sump Plugs Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, Agree with Colin totally. Having driven Rollas for 20+ years, I've had 3k, 4K, & 5K engines in my Rollas at different times. They were in combination, with an auto; & 4 speed & 5 speed gear boxes. The 5K engine, in combination with a 5 speed gearbox, plus a 3.89 ratio diff, is simply the very best setup, without doing the twin overhead cam & Nissan engine swaps. The only thing that came slightly close to it, was the 4K-U version of the 4K engine, which pumped out more HP than any of the other more common 4K-C engines. I recently bought a 5K engine, that had been retired from speedway racing, for $ 100. I've only recently stripped it, & am always amazed how strong the bottom end of these engines are. Just balance them, & they'll spin at high revs all day, without a whimper. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, Plenty of stuff on the net, regarding fitting fog lights to Corollas. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/factory-style-fog-wiring.1673247/ You can also get the actual fog light switch on line, with plug & wire tails, that just plugs into your dash/facia, in place of the little blanking piece. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000188196228.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9604210690&albag=100463787298&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4000188196228&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4000188196228&gclid=CjwKCAiAtK79BRAIEiwA4OskBoyZRHSciKJdBNOMQA2rrsv65IXKrlS99FnPuuyEQbJPOSniZzr5zxoC9JoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You might need the changeover relay also. Hopefully, if you've found the wiring already exists, it is just a case of adding lights, switch, & relay. Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, Love it ! Invariably, behind every old car, still "percolating", there is a story. Thanks for letting us know. You certainly are a "lucky buyer". Keep us up to date, on what you find with your routine servicing of the "cooling system". Cheers Banjo

Hey Misael, I stopped your video, & tried to read the mileage travelled on your car. It looks like it is somewhere between 83-84K miles total. As the meter only reads to 99,999 before it rolls over, do you think your 79 Rolla is still on it's first round of the meter ? If it is, then by my arithmetic, your 41 year olde car, has only done approximately 2050 miles per year, or 3,300 klms per year. If it is on the second time around, then those figures would still be, only 4,500 miles per year, or 7,200 klms per year. That is truly remarkable. Cheers Banjo

That is absolutely brilliant Pete ! I saved your pic, rotated it 90 degrees, & read it by enlarging it. It is full of beautiful phrases. "The choke is a typical piece of Japanese ingenuity: Instead of a pull out knob, you slide a lever recessed into the facia." Cheers Banjo P.S. If I've got the time in the next 24 hours, I might transcribe the complete review.

Hi Jake, Agree with everything Pete has mentioned above. I've always found the number one culprit; & first thing to wear out, are the bushes in the idler arm bracket, on the opposite side to the steering box. Very cheap & easy to replace. The other thing, to consider is the balance of the two front wheels, in particular. They are very critical, particularly in vehicles, like our Rollas, that use the McPherson configuration. I've had numerous cars, over the years, which had McPherson type front suspensions, which have all had "wobble" problems at a particular speed, similar in range, to what you have described. It just appears to me over the years, that the geometry & design of the McPherson arrangement, has very low tolerance to small amounts of "out of balance", of the front wheels. This problem can be exacerbated, by fitting wider rims, or messing around with the "geometry" of the front end. eg: My KE30 Rolla, has a set of Pirelli Cinturators all around. I've found them over the years to be a great all-rounder, in both wet & dry, & extremely good wearing life. However, when the Rolla has been sitting in the garage, on a concrete floor, for a few days, it will always wobble badly for the first few of klms, of driving. It them stops & doesn't return on that trip. I've had the front wheels rebalanced in days gone by, & it made no difference. My theory, is that when the car sits on a hard surface for several days, the tyre distorts, & basically gets a couple of flats on them. After driving a couple of klms, the tyre warms up, & the centrifugal forces of the wheel spinning, removes the imbalance & the flats. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, That is beautiful ! I'm sitting here at my desk, & have just watched your 2 videos, twice, while having a coffee. I've now got to wipe my desk; not because I spilled my coffee; but because I've "droooled" so much over your car. That is in incredibly good condition. Orginal paint, & that dashboard top appears not to even have a crack in it. Lots of very jealous guys here viewing your Rolla. Good luck with it, once you get it home, & put a spanner to it. Keep in touch. Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, As the 5K engine is a transplant in your new KE11-SL, have you been given any idea from the previous owner, what the history of the 5K is ? Is it original ? Has it ever been overhauled ? How many klms it has on it. Do you live in S.E. Qld ? They are a great transplant for any 3K or 4K, in a Rolla, as they rev more freely, being nearly perfectly square, & have that better torque at the low end. Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, Welcome aboard. Hope we can assist you. I was able to run your audio file, but it was general engine noise; not that tick/tick tappet noise. Your best friend when chasing & isolating engine noises, is an automotive stethoscope. They have the advantage that they block out a lot of the "background" noise, and amplify the sound at the point on the engine where the tip of the probe is. They are less the $ 12 on ebay, with free postage. I swear by them. I have a 5K with hydraulic lifters, that had something similar to what you are describing. Being hydraulic, the lifters rely on oil pressure passing from the block to the lifter, through quite small oil holes. The problem is that if the engine has been sitting for a long time, the oil & sludge harden up, & the holes get smaller, & the hydraulic lifters don't pump up enough, to reduce the tappet clearance to zero. A common finding is that when the engine has run a while, & the oil becomes thinner, when it is easier for the oil to get into the lifter. A common example of this, is a 5K sounding like a bucket of bolts, when you start it up cold, but slowly quietens down after 5-10 minutes. The diesel & kero solution, could work, but a better way is to whip the head off. Lift out all the hydraulic followers (& keep them numbered in order, so they return to the same spot). Then you can take the little spring out of the bottom, & clean them out totally, paying attention to the tiny little oil feed holes in the wall of the lifter. While you have the rocker gear off, it is an ideal time to reface the rocker area, where it wipes across the valve stem. Even a fine sanding disk on a drill can assist in this action. I've even heard of people that have put up with the noisy hydraulic / tappet noise, for a couple of weeks, only to have them all progressively improve. There are those on here who have replaced the hydraulic lifters with solid ones, (landcruiser I think)& put adjustable rockers in. However, after saying that, none of the 3 x 5Ks that I have had, ever gave me any tappet noise problems, once I had cleaned the oil ways out. Where are you located ? If you are in Brissy, you can PM me, & come around, & we'll run my stethoscope over your engine. Cheers Banjo

Hi Luca, Here's one that popped straight up. It's for auto to manual conversion, but covers all the basics, & includes some pics. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/?tab=comments#comment-59079 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/32023-auto-to-man-ke30-advice/?tab=comments#comment-358122 I'm sure I put a post when I did mine, so have a look under my postings. Cheers Banjo