LittleRedSpirit

Its a fitting from yager motorsport. Call them, they are in Alstonville NSW, but have no website. Very big in clubman circles. It houses a thermostat so you can do away with anthony kellams ridiculous external thermostat idea. No bypass needed in this system, just a rear plate or modified fitting, block off near the headers and the front thermostat fitting. Yes, it points almost directly at the top radiator hose outlet. Heres a pic of it.. The bottom mount bit is cnc, but the top casting is a standard (WO53 part number) Kilkenny casting from a Mitsubishi Nimbus.

I think you mean: "Cars we jack it, then strip it like whoah."

Hahaha, I'm not a skidder remember. I went and got gaskets and fitted the exhaust section that Mungi Mods made the other day. Then in went the caster bars and swaybar, swapped around the wheels and its on the ground now. Yippee. I removed the AE111 throttles and now I just have to clean and fit the ae101 throttles. Then tank and diff, which I'm obviously not looking forward to, hahah, I keep doing other shit. Theres nowhere to hide anymore. For the filler neck I'm using the RT142 corona neck and then just shortening it, as it fits straight into the ae86 tank and has the same plug in internal breather. Should be a lot easier than the first time around.

Yes I do, I might clean and reassemble the throttle bodies tonight, but swap to the AE111 injectors since I had them cleaned and running with them before. Then its throttles on, swap tank, wires, diff, zorst and tune.

So I got the modified pulley back today. Cost $70 to save me the trouble of changing the pump back to a 4age one. The spacer ring and redrill is rather a neat job, so I can definately reccommend extreme custom engineering to anyone that needs odd car related fabrication done. Heres a pic. The pulley used to have a big scratch accross it fromthe radiator after the prang, and he turned that off for me too. I'm pretty happy with it, it fits on perfectly and locates properly. 4ac, 4af have the 50mm bolt spacing and smaller centre bore. 4age is 57mm and larger centrebore.

For some reason, I think having a lot to do with import/export laws, NZ was more welcoming of wholly imported cars. We had more laws about what had to be made here and what didnt. Therefore we got a lot of borg warner/ami/aussie made stuff incorporated into our cars, all while NZ and the like was getting the japan only models brought straight over. Not necessarily bad stuff, just different to the rest of the world and not the high end jap bits that we all want now... :)

Flat front is the earlier style. The one with the sealed beams and silver painted light buckets that looks a bit more oldschool. This came out in Australia in 1981 generally, although overseas I have seen different front ends again for different years. Ive seen this front on cars from as far back as 1979 while browsing the web. Theres also the slant front in Australia, which superseded the earlier style front in 1983. At this time, as stated above, they also offered the ae71 model, which is the same chassis and a different motor. 1.6 badge on the side. Ke70s after 1983 are all slant front, just like the AE71s. They have brighter headlights thanks to using a more modern bulb design. There are semi sealed conversions for early flat front to allow the use of the same bulb type. I think its h4 halogen, but I'm no expert on headlights. To answer your next question you can swap all the different panels over from car to car, with minimal modifications. It all pretty much bolts up, but you need the full set of front end panels and should swap the wiring loom over cause the early style has an extra bulb to power for the side marker lights. All the wiring is plug and play the same between aussie delivered models. There are different front ends on the panos and the T18 aswell. t18 had 2 styles of front end, but the gaurds wont fit on a ke70, a bit different around the door seam.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say slant for the win.

Havent done alot. Terry came and did the exhaust connection, we just used the resonator from the 4ac system. Cut the flange off the other system and welded it up. Looks ok, and means I can drive it, albeit with a small pipe. Should sound wierd. Ive also retarred the wheel arches at the front. Gooey black crap.

Some pictures of the work.

Haha, having a nice chat eh. I got the tie rod end I needed. I now have a complete steering system installed. The rack is in good nick but will be swapped out as soon as the quaife is ready. Ive got some perfect rack ends to put in too, as I didnt have the spanners big enough to swap them at home. I just need some kind of way to adapt in a heater connection into the bottom radiator hose, and a new core of course. Ill have to make something I guess. I put the speedo cable in aswell as the jap tailshaft. Ready and waiting for the diff, and I will fill the gearbox with oil soon so I need the spline up its bum so it doesnt run out. So if terry brings over the suspension bits tonight I will be able to drop it down and swap the diff and tank on sunday, most likely. Have to got to work tomorrow for a change.

By jdm stlye clutch I mean i used a jap t50 bellhousing on an aussie t50. i say this just to indicate which side the slave is on. Its bled and I must say, its light as a feather. So thats one pedal down, 2 to go, haha. Need swap a diff asap. Mungi mods is coming over tonight with a few parts that I gave him a while back from my other 71 that he didnt use. Caster arms, and the swaybar. My current set of caster arms are for some reason featuring weld on the threads that limit adjustment. Me thinks this car has been tugged back to straight before. hehe. I'm not investing in new bushes for the caster arms, as in the not too distant future they will be replaced with TTT rose jointed items. I'm going to fit the stock swaybar for now also as the whiteline adjustable I have fouls on my brakes, its a shocker. Be great for someone with normal size rotors and calipers. I need to get new tie rod ends, as one of mine is rooted. So once those 2 items are fitted, I just have to drop it down and swap the diff and tank, and once my gasket arrives from Melbourne I can swap quads and get it running and tuned. Need to do a dodgy exhaust so i can drive it to get a better one. I'm sure Terry will be up for that, Ive got a cat here in a section of 2 1/4 pipe that we can play with. Only need to fill about 3 feet between the stock rear overdiff exhaust and the headers for now. Oh and for all the people who said it wasnt possible, I fitted a rubber gearshift boot from an ae86 to my ae71. All it takes is a slight stretch to the rubber. Ive doubled up the ae71 boot and the ae86 boot to try and keep noise down.

Well i got the heater tap in an awesome spot, down next to the brake bias valves, kinda under the throttles. The hoses are actually quite neat if you ask me the way they flow. I just need an inline adapter to connect the water back in from the heater. Its a widebody Camry tap and a cable from an ae82 4ac. The only thing was while I was playing around I realised I broke another heater core fitting the motor, and the other spare one I have I pressure tested and it leaked badly. So now I need a new heater core. I'm looking for one from a ke70, with one spout up and one down, I'm going to mod it so the one thats right behind the distributor plate is pointing up as well and the 2 outlets will end up staggered. This will mean the thing will not clash with anything, but it will make the heater core a bit harder to fit, but I'm confident it will wiggle in. The shifter is in, and the JDM style clutch is set up with a reco slave and new rubber line. My clutch master cylinder was new not long ago. Its basically a new system. I just need to bleed it to get a pedal and thats it for the clutch system. The caster/swaybar mounts are in and feshly painted in flat black, also. I tossed in the 4-2-1s and they fit great, exactly as I had hoped for, Ive heard some headers for ae86 can foul on the firewall but these are absolutely perfect, they miss everything and don't stick down very far under the car at all. Ive connected up the brake booster vaccuum hose, and thats about it for today. So if you are in Brisbane and have an early style ke70 heater core, hook me up please, haha. ;)

Just a valve to get the opening right on the pipe. Last time around I had the stock one sitting there and it defauits open when its disconnected, and it sucks a bit of air. A bit too much as it idles at 1600 revs. So I just need to be able to set the opening to make it idle where i want is all. I don't think I need a computer to do that, just a tap. Ive had a go at fitting the heater tap. Its gonna work.

Camry stuff is cheapest and quite often the easiest to get, so it makes sense. I now have a heater tap from a widebody, as well as some extra hoses and bends, also a longer heater cable to operate the tap, and a few random sensors and a fuse box that will come in handy. I'm going to use a fixed tap style of idle control, set and forget is the plan, no wiring, no bs. Just a valve. My slave cylinder has been recoed and I got a new rubber hose manufactured to suit it. Exact same as the jdm line. Ive also taken the waterpump pulley into extreme custom engineering for a redrill and to be modified slightly to use a locating ring to centre it. Its costing $70 bucks but thats cheaper than a new waterpump and the time to swap the old one. It just means that I can use which-ever pump I like, 4afe, or 4age. Ironically to get a sample of the stud pattern on the pulley i went to the self serve wreckers and got a 4ac pulley. Its the same as the fe ones except for offset, and then I went and dropped off the pulleys and stopped by to see Brian my mechanic who was at work in Rocklea, just around the corner from the custom engineers. He had a 4afe in bits on the floor and has a spare pulley just sitting there, so i could have just gone past his shop and got what i needed on the way to the engineers. Bloody murphy is back again. Now Ill most likely spend the evening tinkering to try and connect the heater up, I need to come up with a second port to hook it back into the cooling system somewhere, but I can probably source an in line fitting from Speco or something like that.

Its coming along great, mate. Itll be together before you know it. :jamie:

Well that didnt take too long, Ive now found the gasket I needed for the ITBs and also a new set of linkages for them. Should be here by next week. Since I can't go too hard with the motor till I get the quad parts Ill do the suspension and diff next and swap the tank. Then once I get the bits it'll be all engine bay action until its running.

I'm going to the wreckers to get a heater tap off of a wide body camry. Its a little black plastic one and mounts on one bolt. I might hide it under the throttles. Rain has eased so Ive now blasted and painted my swaybar mounts with flat black vht.

Thanks guys. I'm having fun with it. Did a little more today. Did up some bolts to hold the motor in, had a look to see if the stock heater tap can be used, and it cannot. Made a ground cable from motor to body. I used 140 amp cable for those playing at home. I started to sandblast the swaybar mounts for painting and it rained on me, i got one painted the other is still retched looking. Might try to do that before it gets any later if the rain eases. The neighbours don't like to hear the compressor, and I can't blame them, haha. I might slip the shifter into the car, and put the jdm tailshaft in. My next real big priority is to get the front suspension re-installed and drop it back to the ground, and then raise the rear for a diff/tank swap. The Ill have beerhead over to wire it and we will have it running in about an hour I reckon. I desperately need the gasket that goes between silvertop itb manifold and the head. Its a bit of a thorn in my side at this time, a new one is 50 something dollars and will take a week to get here at least.

I'm sure theyll work fine. Thanks for the quick sale I relly needed them. :jamie:

don't get insecure on me baby. Anyhow, I dropped the motor in as soon as it dried up enough outside. I spent so long getting ready to do it that it was a breeze. 25 minutes and a little help from My girl and it was too easy. I don't think I even dented much or scraped anything thats visible. Hopefully the heater core is ok. I did give it a bit of a rub, you might say, next time I may leave it out while fitting the motor. I also went and met rolliac tonight and purchased his spare set of silvertop ITBs. They will work better on this silvertop than the ae111 throttles. Rolliac is the fellow who bought Trevs car, and hes working hard on getting it running. The ae111 throttles will go on the 2azfe build. Need the extra flow they provide in that application. So tomorrow I might try and fit the quads if I can get a gasket for the manifold to head union from somewhere. I'm thinking i might redo the clutch line because i found an actual JDM ae86 solid line here unmolested that i saved a long time ago for just such an occasion. I'm going by the brake shop as well to get the slave recoed, and a new rubber line for the thing as well. Funny story, the fellow at the brake shop had the same last name as a few mates of mine from Toowoomba. Hes my mates' uncle. Small world.

Base your decision about which size of strut to use around availability of dampers. If you are going coilovers and therefore most likely a stiffer spring, you will want some better dampers for sure. Most people with coilovers in ke70s have used a 2 inch strut like ae86 or t18 to make coilovers. Id use rt132 corona struts if I was making coilovers now because they are 2 inch struts and will fit a variety of shocks if cut to certain lengths. Also they have a larger stub axle and bearing than corolla equipment. May as well get some ke30 axles into the diff and do the 114.3 stud pattern conversion as well.

http://acidcow.com/cars/628-1984-group-b-t...oration-65.html

Red and white sounds good. Its Toyotas livery after all. Inspiration for you:

Toyota will use their sealant (which you can buy from them) around the tighter corners like around the fornt of the cams where the seal meets. Just get the seal and a little sealant, clean things before they go back on. Kero is good to clean oil with.