LittleRedSpirit

Wheel bearing most likely will whine pretty constant. Diff will whine different at different load/speed/rpm.

PMs are better for business in tech areas. If you please. :yes:

EFI. The 5 valve per cylinder 4age is efi and has factory quad throttles.

Sounds awesome. I just collected my new thermofan shroud/radiator combo from Western Suburbs Radiator Service at Sumner Park. I spoke to Dennis and he did me a great thermofan shroud in Alloy for 100 bucks. Here it is. It uses a Toyota OEM thermofan from an sv21 camry. It seals the whole core so the fan will be as efficient as possible.

Today is an exciting day. Brad is here to wire the car, and I have completed the filler mod. I just took the filler neck to an exhaust shop (Centenary Exhausts on 17 Mile Rocks RD - free plug ftw) to have it bent about 7 degrees. He didnt even charge me anything. Legend. Then I removed the flared sheetmetal cone around the cap and trimmed its length with some tin snips and it all slipped together, while still using the original rubber piece that acts as a trim around the spout. The way i had done it last time was much much messier, and involved tin snipping away some metal from the body. The way i have done it now means the car is remaining unmolested. After today I will just need my radiator to be finished so I can fit that and it should be driveable once I put the dash back together and the front panels on. Also still in urgent need of some silvertop trumpets if anyone has some I could use/buy. Even the stock ones would do initially.

Looks ok but I'm not sure about those pressure plate bolts, are they meant to be washer head type, or have washers under them? Otherwise the spline looks like its aligned and the clutch is wedged in there properly. I don't understand why it wont work. From here you should just have to make sure the throwout bearing and clutch fork are in right and sitting on that pivot/clip thing properly. Do the 2 little clips up on the fork and then bolt engine to box. The bolt on the slave and bleed it and it should work. If the hydraulics arent moving maybe its time to reco the slave or the master for the clutch.

Its hard to see from the photo. The clutch disc will usually only go in one way. If you put it in backwards then it will be broken perhaps. All bound up inside and wont spin. Hard to say but it doesnt look well aligned either. Need more info and better photos.

Id be keen to help if I was able to decode the hieroglyphs in which you speak.

Just took a few photos.

I've bled the brakes, and they feel great. Thats 2 pedals now. Just need the motor to run. Ive Just got to further mod the fuel filler an then it will just slip in the spot no problems. I also need to put in some gearbox oil. I chucked all the rims on it so i could drop it down and see the ride height, and its just as I had hoped with the new rear springs. It should drive perfect, and thats goodbye cut springs for good. Its getting so close to driveable now, I can taste it. I also need some velocity stacks for the silver throttles. don't know what I'm going to do there. Anyone have something I can buy or borrow? I also need new front rear bumper as mine's not real straight. Hope fully when Brad comes over to wire it I can be painting the panels.

Tank and diff are in, fuel filler still needs minor work but all the hoses are done up. Got a new fuel filter installed aswell. Still waiting for my radiator mods to be done, Ive got the radiator shop making me a nice cowl for my sv21 thermofan, and braising on some captive nuts so it just bolts straight on. Just need to bleed brakes, put in some gearbox oil and get it wired. Beerhead will come and do that when hes ready. Then zorst and tune. Mungi mods popped over and we test fitted some southernways mesh wheels he has which clear my 4 pot brakes. They are due to be widened so ill have a full matching set of 7.5s and :y: to fit soon, reco and polish with powdercoat centres and new bolts. Still wondering what colour to paint them. thinking either white or silver but mungi mods likes gunmetal. I kinda want to be different but still keep it classy.

My brother lives in Mt Isa. Hes gonna call him and see if he can get some photos of his wheels and cars. If he says no and wont let him in its the wreckers loss. See if he goes for it. :happy: I think its a pretty shonky way to run a wrecker to say, tell me what you want and Ill find it. I find they often go out and flog around for half a day to get your part, half ruin it, or its in poor order and they put the hard sell on you to buy it cause they already had to pull it off, and they want to be paid for their time somewhat so the parts are more expensive anyhow. If I can't look at the car the parts came from I'm hesitant to gat them from a wrecking yard. Youd like to know honest mileage and see what else was there, and what the good and bad points about the car are when deciding what to get from it.

Theres plastic on all the pillars, but it usually snaps in half when you try to remove it unless extreme care is taken. Most of the time I just paint the pillars so they look neat, and put the piping back on it protects your face when you crash. Nothing much else up there except roof lining.

Please don't paint it matt black. It will be cop bait, especially with a younger driver at the wheel. Everytime I see a matt black car I think, hey there's another broke kid. So do most people I talk to. Please please please do a nice original colour. White, red, cream, Silver, bronze, something like that. Aim high. Matt black looks awesome if you do even more prep than for a solid gloss colour, otherwise it just looks like ultra pov spec. Satin black is much better, or as I already suggested, an original ish colour. Those door trims of yours look overrated as hell from the photos, and personally knowing how hard good door trims are to find for a ke, youd be better off putting those away for safe keeping or selling them and making your own from scratch, rather than destroying some of the few remaining overrated original trims out there. Ill buy em, haha. Just please don't ruin them. You can tear apart an old set to make custom ones but please keep those minty. To fit AE86 coilovers you need to fit the ke70 strut tops to them. Also make sure you use the AE86 steering arm with them, or failing that you can use steering arms from an xt130 corona, which are just a tiny bit longer. If you want more lock you can use ae86 power steering arms which are shorter. If you want to use cambertops on your ke70 you need to find caster added tops for ae86. They have pretty much the correct caster position and the right stud pattern. If you want negative camber without cambertops, you can fit xt130 lower control arms which are just the same but a tiny bit longer than the ke70 unit. Looks like a nice car, have fun but please be tasteful with the mods. Otherwise when its all said and done you will have an expensive mess that isnt engineerable or as enjoyable as it could be. A grand well spent beats a dollar wasted. :lolcry: :lolcry: :happy: :lolcry:

Maybe you should think about this and explain why a v6 would make it understeer? V6 is a tidy fit in a ke70. If you use an alloy Toyota one I can't imagine a way to get more cylinders behind the crossmember and fewer in front, and no real weight penalty.

Fitted the quads, complete with injectors, just need to fit the other shit now. :happy:

Looks great, and lots of good work happening. Carry on. :P

Look into lexus vehicles, not too sure about the 1jzgte, but the 2jzgte was in some I think. Happy hunting. Oh, member Xany has a 1jzgte supra but it is an import, member Teddy has an M series supra that was Australian delivered. Not 100% sure there was a 1jzgte vehicle in Australia, but someone else will know more...

So havent done much, just pulled out the diff and tank and completed the filler mod. Just need efi hose to put it all together. So the diff and tank can go in, then the injectors and quads, wires, radiator, zorst, tune and drive the slut.

Firstly, you should read our wiki articles and the guides people have written. Start here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=5644 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=29506 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=38780 Then try here: http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm Also try reading members rides and tech builds to see what people are doing and how they do it. The beautiful part about engine conversions is how everyone does it with a little individual style. There are some seriously inspiring cars on here. Yangzeen, david in norway, daimon Js ke70 20v turbo, casanas racing, teddys ground up rebuild. It just will take you time to absorb all the info at hand. Once you have soaked up what you can its time to ask us a few questions (hopefully not "Can someone please type me a how to do an engine conversion guide?"). Have a blast. :)

I don't know about that. As far as I know it was the 8 valve 4as that had the remote thermostat, did the fwd bigports also have it? I cannot remember for sure, but I think I remember seeing it in an AE82 twinky. I'd be uncomfortable saying Toyota did things wrong, as I'm sure they did what they did for a reason, and with far more science and purpose than what we have used in our modifications. I don't strictly know what their rationale was, but I dare say it was based around a fast warmup to reduce emissions when the car is enriched while cold. For emissions reasons most manufacturers run a bypass to reduce warmup times. Wheres the thermostat on a 16v rwd engine? I can't remember having never worked on one. I seem to remember its near the waterpump somewhere but I can't really recall.

I don't get it either. Probably comes down to people wanting a classic car and liking the look, but not having the coin to splurge on a tidy 1950s or 1960s hot rod.

Just like Brad said, there is no issue with not using a bypass, the waterpump is capable of backflow, but an important point is that I use an underdrive pulley in combination with it. For safetys sake I have a cold rev limit of 4000rpm until the water temp is over 40 degrees centigrade, shortly after that my thermostat would open (at 72 centigrade). As Brad said it would generally cycle open then almost closed twice before it was warm. Depending on conditions it would take 5-8 minutes. If we strip away all the things about cooling systems that pertain to emissions tuning for adr compliance, a bypass isn't strictly necessary. As far as thermostat location goes it needs to be somewhere that it can absorb and soak up heat from the block or head, not just rely on the water to transmit the heat. I feel that this leads to hot spots, and more wildly varying temperatures from a slack thermostat response. For this reason I feel its a bad idea to run an external thermostat on a 20v (or any engine). The remote thermostat allows the head to get too hot before it opens. I could tell this from my coolant sensor readings and also the sound of the thing, as well as the massively variable coolant temps and the constantly cycling thermostat. The constsntly cycling thermostat was real concern, because the water temp sensor in the head said it was hot, borderline too hot, but the thermostat still wanted to close. It had a different bark to it when it was full hot, sort of like it was almost overheating when I used the external thermostat. If you think about it, Toyota has placed the thermostat at the rear of the head. There is no coincidence that this is where the water exits the motor. That is why the yager fitting is also very good. It is best practice to have the thermostat at the outlet point for the water from the system.

If you want less bodyroll try a stiffer swaybar.

Yeah that would work I guess. Just leaving the thermostat out of the fitting. You can do either or. I want the thermostat where the water comes out of the engine. Thats why it is where it is on mine. I don't have a bypass of any type. With the underdrive pulley on the waterpump it seems to work fine. It may be cheaper if you get someone who can weld to modify the top outlet from your 20v and turn it around so it faces the radiator and not the waterpump, if you don't want the thermostat in this position. I assume since you have ajdm water kit, you probably have the bypass so you may as well use what you already have I guess.