LittleRedSpirit

I got the bar there from a dumbell that I use for all manner of hard to get to bashing tasks in conjunction with a sledge hammer. No room to swing the hammer, line the dumbell up and bash it instead. Also a length of galvanized pipe never goes astray. 6 foot breaker bar anyone? :lolcry:

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...st&p=379275 Theres a pretty descriptive photo of how mungi mods repaired my bootlip with metal from my spare ke70 here. You basically fold and form it in sections, then weld up the joins, grind smooth, dolly flat and repeat.

yes he is! Fully Uleh. :S Cut springs are a joke. They will be too firm initially and the suppleness of the ride is severley compromised. Ive just ditched my cut stock rear springs in favour of some similar rate custom springs with the correctly wound ends that will actually stay in my spring seats if I get a bit loose. Its not an issue till the shit hits the fan. Invest in some stiffer springs that will lower the car correctly. Kings are a good option if you are lazy and just want a lowish daily ride that will still handle ok and take the bumps. They go ok with just GT gas monroes installed. Personally, I think the best option is a little trial and error to see what you like with custom springs. There is a sad tendency for everyone to get caught up in the drift hype since thats whats in fashion. don't buy into it, most people attempt to drift with an underpowered car. They do silly things like find the stiffest springs that will fit in the car and chop them way down, then not invest in some $500 adjustable shocks to control them properly. Or they crack the tyre pressures up to 60 PSI. All these things basically sacrifice the car control you need to do the drifts properly anyhow, and ultimately if you want to get good at it you will go the other way and look for grip and more power. In reality its a difficult task to make cut springs fall out The real problem is how bad the ride is and how much you like to risk the safety of others on the road with your tightarsedness (hey I invented a word :) ). So do some research. Look into whether you would like height adjustability, if you just want to find a nice height to work with its ok to cut them for a day or so to work it out. Then you should go and order some springs to do the job correctly and some good shocks to control them. Stiffer isnt better. It is to a point with a front end, but in the rear its better to be as soft as possible for grip.

Hahah, Id prefer procrastination over inflammation any day. :) Anyhow, I have declared 2010 "the year of the labour saving device." In the spirit of such an occasion I have purchased a parts washer. Just a little one that needs 6-8 litres of Kero in it. Ive also bit the bullet and bought a sandblaster to do the cars with. The thought of all that sanding makes my back hurt, and my hands tingle, so this sounds much better. Now I have no excuse... Stay tuned... :S

Hey thanks Tim. Ive been doing light duties on it, cleaning things way too well. Ive cleaned up all the bolts for the bellhousing, both to the box and to the motor, all the bolts that hold the motor in, all the mounts and all the workings of the clutch, starter, all kinds of shit. It will be a mere formality once I'm able to slip it all together. Wish I could do more. My back is beginning to feel ok, so Ill see how it goes in the next week or so and hopefully make a start soonish.

Konis only adjust rebound. I wouldnt call that fully adjustable. That being said they are excellent shocks.

You don't know what youre missing.

Hey thanks for that, I most certainly will. Ill get em to do both engine bays most likely and also the wheel arches, since I'm gonna re deaden them on the 2azfe build. My new steering rack bushes arrived by express post. Should be good, firm the whole show up some. Now I just have to track down my mechanic and see if my steering rack is fixed yet. I wanted him to swap the bush over inside it, or use a better housing to repack it all with and eliminate the one knock in my otherwise awesome front suspension. I got some bad news today. Ive had a sore back lately, and I went and had an x ray and a ct scan which revealed 2 slightly prolapsed discs at L4 and L5 (right at the bottom above the tail bone). Sadly the only way to settle it down is to rest it and that may mean leaving the corolla alone for a week or three. I'm not happy. As we all know, working on cars is terrible for your back. However I think the cause of it was the 14 hour days and 7 day a week work that consumed most of November and December. Grrrrrr. Not good. Oh well, at least the missus has to do all the work around the house. I had her take a massive load of green waste to the tip today. That was good for a laugh. So the next thing for this project I guess is to get the soada blasters to come over and sort out the underbody for me, then put some fresh undercoat over the lot. All the heavy stuff like swapping the motors around will have to wait. :)

All you need to do is master the search function.

Looking good mate. I like it that height, its about where I run mine. If bleeding the brakes made them feel better, try flushing out all the old fluid and going again with fresh stuff. Brake fluid only lasts about a year at the most installed in a car, after which point it becomes waterlogged with humindity from the atmosphere.

Coming along well mate. don't laught too loud at the 3 tachos comment, you described the 3 types of gauges yourself as "3 tacos' in the original post. Are they beef, chicken or fish tacos?

The motor is out and split from the box. Got another fair heap of bits for the powdercoaters. Sold my MK2rs on ebay, which I now regret. I got ok money for them but Id like to find another set for myself, which I may widen to 8.5. I bought some super pro rack bushes and some new rear springs for it. All I really need now is some upper trailing arms that are adjustable. I'm going to remove the heater core, and most of the dash to make locating the ecu and painting the engine bay easier. Its not fun but it will be all worth it in the end. I really need a sandblaster, anybody able to help?

The cheapest and easiest solution would be these, provided the strut stud pattern is the same. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=789 They give you 2 positions to choose from, both of which will increase the rate of the steering and the amount of total lock you have which is better for drifting. There are 2 ways to do this type of mod in a car with rack and pinion. 1 as you already know is the quick rack, made to fit ke70/ae71/ae86 steering racks exclusively and produced out of england by quaife. Best bet to find one is from Palmside NZ. I bought mine about 2 years ago for 31 NZ delivered. Then I had to fit it. You would also be needing to fit mounts on your crossmember etc to make it work, and in my opinion this whole exercise is well beyond someone who is just learning what steering knuckles are. Rack placement is crucial to handling, so Id avoid that as a novice 100 percent. 2 this brings us to option 2, shorter steering knuckles. You are effectively shortening the radius of the steering arm by just fitting shorter ones. Therefore for the same horizontal displacement of the steering(turns lock to lock) you are achieving a greater steering angle. In a steering box and linkage equiped vehicle, you will find option 2 easier. You will not need to convert to rack and pinion. You will also achieve more lock which is better for drift. You will probably be able to turn the wheels until the wheel hits the chassis rail. Be careful, and look at doing this for the track only. don't drift on the street. Thats bad news. Have a safe one. :dance:

Hey bud, live it up. :thumbsup:

Hey bud I saw your dad at repco the other day. :thumbsup:

I too vote for doing it a bit better than most. don't do the cutties, get something suitable made up, it will definately handle better and be legal for road use. Stiffer is better is a myth, even for drift.

As far as I know you have a steering linkage, not a rack and pinion setup. Not to worry, you can get shorter steering knuckles to quicken the steering. I'm not sure exactly what fits, but I'm sure if you go to the wreckers and measure the strut stud pattern you can work it out.

The rx7 that the 12 a possibly came from would have had amazing brakes, so Id be looking for those...

Ive done a bit on it today. I cut the crossbrace out of the spare shell since the one in the car is bent down and makes the bonnet sit a bit low. I cut the bent bit out of the car ready to be replaced. I'm going to make the bit that joins the 2 radiator supports removable. Ive also stripped it back to just a motor sitting loose in the bay. All I need to do is undo the gearbox mounts, pop out the tailshaft and undo the clutch line, then the motor and box will be lifted out together. I also washed some of the parts for it and cleaned up the starter which I had disassembled a while back. I scrubbed all the grease and grit off it, and wet and dried the corrosion off the alloy casting. Ill lube it where needed and put it back together tomorrow. I'm gathering a few more bits to go to the powdercoaters, such as the heat shield from the starter, the stone tray, another set of bonnert hinges, 2 bonnet support posts, and Ill probably do the other mounts and the crossmember I have here once it all comes out. Hopefully tomorrow the motor and box will be out, and the cleanup of the body for painting can begin. I'm thinking about getting someone to come and sandblast it instead of me sanding it all. Theres a bit of surface rust here and there, and in all the tight places I'm not too keen to try and sand. Since I am spraying it with actual paint from a spraygun I will do a nice effort on the prep, as painful as it is. Anyone out there have some sandblasting gear they could bring over for a carton?

We appreciate you helping out but without punctuation and some effort in making that paragraph make any sense whatsoever, youve basically just wasted your time.

Yeah I am painting it for sure. I'm gonna do the engine bay and the panels in matching peak white paint which I already have. Starting to strip it this arvo, but Ill need a break in the weather for that to happen. I wish I had a proper shed.

Starting the conversion tomorrow.

I'm not far away, I'm coming for a look. For sure. Let us know which events you will be heading to when you are sure whats going on. Your most likely going to have a fan club. :thumbsup:

I bought it a new genuine radiator cap from ebay actually. I can't leave her out.

Wow, lots of responses for one day. :P You can see the lip doesnt meet the wheel arches, but once Ive got some serious wheels under it and the rona arms Ill need to fold the flare out further, most likely from right where the lip begins. Should look a bit neater then. Thanks for all the responses, people. :lol: