LittleRedSpirit

Bloody rained all day so i didnt get a chance to put the motor in. Bloody Murphy. :) Instead I put in a steering rack, connected some hoses to the heater core, found and fitted a better steering uni joint, and combination switch. I just have to slip (bash probably) the steering column into place and plug it all in, and Ill be dropping in the motor after that I guess. I wasnt going to put the steering in yet, but the rain meant that I couldn't do much with the crane and motor out front of the garage. If it stops for a few hours later on I might give it another go. Bit over it and frustrated right now. Just want some sunshine and another day to work on it, all of which I don't have.

From what Ive read, there are electronic devices available to kick lift in earlier. I think maybe HKS or someone like that makes them. there is some merit in turning it on earlier, yielding extra power at mid to high rpms. As it is the sportivo tends to go nuts at around 6000rpm or shortly thereafter, but there is some tuning merit in having it switch on at a bit over 5000rpm, from what Ive read. So you don't want to have massive lift from low rpms, but there is some merit the more air is trying to flow I guess. first google result yields some good ideas... http://www.wheelsjamaicahost.com/wheels_fo...p?topic=68964.0

The motor is ready to bolt in with the box attached. Should be fun tomorrow. :)

I'm hoping I can be there for the next one...

Whats with the inspection window on the top? Looks almost like an alternate position for a clutch fork but no bolt holes to mount anything near it.

Member Name - Matt Area - Indooroopilly Daily Drive - 2006 Triton, White AE71 CSX.

Done a few more things. I've found the seal I need for the gearbox. Ive also grabbed a few hose clamps for the fuel lines, because I don't really like to reuse them for the fuel. I had the local brake and clutch service plug the faulty hole in the samq fitting with a brass bung and a bunch of loctite. I'm just gonna have to run the aftermarket temp sensor in a different spot, which kind of ruins my plans to compare all the readings in the same location. I still need to do something about the pulley that needs to be redrilled. Thats not something that will stop me putting the motor in, however. I need to get the crane back for the weekend so I can fit the motor. then hopefully get brad around to connect the loom and then load the old tune and get an exhaust. Ill have to retune it later I guess as well to make the most of the changes Ive made, 4-2-1s and different trumpets. I think I just need 6 hose clamps for the heater and heater tap and I can put the whole show together. I'm going to rebuild my slave cylinder too, Its about 17 dollars in parts.

Ive been reading about the stuck throttle issues on some forums around the place. I came accross it while looking for information on the 2azfe. Apparently its all linked to drive by wire issues.

You can use any ae86 front suspension parts even swaybars. Just use ke70 strut tops. The rear is the same use whatever you want. Its all the same fitment to the car. You need ae86 struts to use ae86 roll centre adjusters and steering arms. Its also cheaper if you do not go through ebay. http://www.technotoytuning.com/index2.php

If performance is more your thing than originality, you could swap struts to ae86 ones. You get a bigger brake and strut insert size, so you can buy some konis or bilsteins etc. Its easy to do you just use your ke70 strut tops.

Leave the airfilter on, thats laughably stupid. :hmm: :dance: :cool: Put some full height or correctly wound lowering springs in it. :D :yes: :hmm: :bash: You can fit an AE86 LSD, not a cheap mod, however. :y: 22re conversion would be reasonably straightforward I think, if you can manage the wiring. :yes: Cheap mods tend to devalue and destroy a car. Worth saving your pennies and doing good stuff. A set of shocks worth around a grand will make it handle far superior to cutties and full length shocks, but not easy on the wallet. Theres a way to lower a car, and theres a way not to. I suggest you start with basic maintenance. Check all the tie rod ends, and linkages in the steering. Rebush the suspension with nolathane. Start with the ones thet need replacing right way, and do the lot if you are keen. Maybe 150 bucks in this if you go basic, closer to 300 if you do a lot of bushes and need tie rod ends as well. You could fit ae86 power steering arms to get more lock, I guess. It would be a waste of time if the steering system was flogged out. Thats about a 200 dollar exercise. Some wheels around 15 inch diameter, and 7 to 8 inches wide would make it feel far better on the road, as long as there is good rubber. Probably cost you 500- 700 to get somehting decent. Fit a swaybar to the rear end. Simply a matter of finding a swaybar that suits and welding a mount onto the diff and the body. Make it feel less floaty and more direct. May as well do the swaybar upgrade on the front end too. Thats about 300-400 dollars probably.

Ill do my best to answer all your random questions if you edit the thing to include correct spelling and punctuation, and no leet (text) speak. Can you make it into a list? I'm getting a headache looking at it. By the way, you are more likely to get good information if you take the time to provide as much information as possible and to make it as readable as possible.

Maybe later in the year eh. haha. You still wouldnt have money if you were an apprentice, however. 1st year is maybe 250 a week. But you would get adult wage subsidies if you are over 21, and you are, aren't you?

Disc brakes always drag, you should still be able to turn the rotors by the wheel studs, however. They don't drag firmly or anything. If its an old car from a paddock, you should probably find someone whos pulled out struts to swap for the arger size and use some that are known to be working. You could go nuts fixing the brakes, rebuild the calipers, spen 120bucks on a new master cylinder, flush then bleed the lines with good fluid, and still possibly not get a great result, while spending hundreds. Ive got a set of struts you can have if you want, just removed and the brakes are good. Then id suggest a better master cylinder, not necessarily new but known to be working.

No progress over the weekend. The back was a bit stiff so just rested. I had planned to go ride my mx bike on Sunday but piked at the last minute to rest. I gotta long list of things to do today on the car. -Collect a gasket, speedo drive O-ring, and rear seal for the T50. -Get my water fitting and pulley fixed/redrilled. -Put the gearbox back together. -Fit the clutch and flywheel to the motor. -Fit the front of body loom and headlights. -Buy some hose for the washer setup -New radiator hoses. -Tank swap -Diff swap with 4 links and shocks/springs too, running short of stands so will have to drop the front end to do this, or buy yet more stands. I seem to always need more. Havent done anything on it as yet. Ill see how I go. I should have the engine crane back this week sometime so I'm waiting for that too, to join the box and motor and drop it into the car.

They are there for a reason, and for 7 bucks, I'd definately use them.

Yeah its easing a bit. Its not great but its getting better. Might need physio or something. I just CBF doing nothing. Gotta do something, and I need the car on the road.

AE101 Silvertop 4age Blacktop Quads and flywheel 4.1 Borg Warner open centre Jap T50 Adaptronic. VVT off at around 6000 rpm. In an AE71

You need the clips. Very important, without them the fork will not move anything. I suggest ordering some from Toyota, or ring your mates and see what you can find. I'm assuming you mean its a 212mm clutch and flywheel. Good stuff. Thats the best size you can fit.

fwd is same as rwd clutch. As long as you have the correct size disc for the flywheel you are using. 4ages come in 200, 212, and 220mm. 220mm is GZE and it will not fit in a t50 bellhousing.

It goes: 1. Spigot bearing into back of crank. 2. Attach flywheel to motor with correct torque. Use a lil locktite. The stuff you can undo. Now go and wash your hands before you touch the clutch disc. 3. Hold clutch disc in place, the flatter side usually goes to the motor and the fatter side to the pressure plate. 4. Bolt the pressure plate over the top to sandwhich the clutch plate in there, using the correct torque settings. It should hold it there but not so firmly that you cannot centre it. 5. Use an aligning tool or an old input shaft from a t50 to centre the clutch above the hole in the spigot bearing. That should be it for the clutch disc and assembly on the motor side. If its a fwd to rwd conversion don't forget to fit a rwd pattern steel plate under the flywheel. before you begin. As far as the gearbox side of things, well this is a little odd at first. 1. The throwout bearing should be tapped onto its carrier slide. 2. Slide this over the input shaft with a small amount of grease between it and the shaft. Theres probably a groove in the carrier that you should fill with grease. Wipe up any excess once you slide it on as the grease can make your clutch slip if its excessive. 3. The throwout carrier has 2 small tabs on it which get clipped onto the end of the clutch fork. They are sort of like paperclips that are made from flat steel. The fork goes through the hole and out the side, with the boot filling the gap around it. Theres an indentation where the slave hits it and another clippity thing where it pivots on the little post inside the bellhousing. Thats basically it. Just bolt box to motor and drop it in. Do up the slave once its all together ot it will hold the box apart while you are trying to centre it. Made that mistake before, lol.

So Ive worked out whats going on with the pulley. Its a 4afe waterpump that I have on the motor. Lets hope it survives at 8300 rpm. haha. I might just get my pulley redrilled to suit, Ill have to have a think about that one... I guess I could always just go get the right bits off a 4afe. Theres a million of those around.

Been doing heaps more. The bellhousing has been pulled off the newly cleaned gearbox, so I can swap the adm bellhousing for the jdm one. Ive also swapped the speedo drive for the jdm one so hopefully the 4.3 diff doesnt throw out the speedo. Theres not much more that I can do with the T50 until the new transfer case gasket arrives. Then i can put it all together and bolt it to the motor. The shell now has brake lines and the clutch hydraulics installed. The booster is in also of course. The fuel lines were flushed and unblocked with carby cleaner and 110psi. It worked a treat. Same for the brake line. All Of them have been flushed and blasted out with a shitload of air, so there should be no contaminants anywhere in the lines. Inside the car I have removed the old heater core which I decided to be lazy and leave in the car while painting and blasting, thus making it trashed. Should have put more thought into that one. At least I have the one from the brown car here so thats now installed as intended. I also decided to swap the underdash loom over for the one from the red car, which is actually the original one form the brown car anyhow. While it was all apart I gave it an almighty clean and even hosed the dash vents out. I also flushed the heater core. The dash has still got all the cosmetic bits removed, and will stay that way till the thing is wired and the ecu is positioned. Ive been hunting around for all my tidiest bits and pieces to put in, Ive got some good washer bottles to go in, but I think ill put black hose on the lines since the old clear hose is rather disgusting looking. Had to visit the wreckers today to grab a bonnet release cable. Oh and I bought an AE86 passenger seat to replace the nanna blue vinyl ke70 seat thats in there presently. I started to clean up the motor tonight also. I removed the throttles from the engine with the intent to clean them and the vaccuum lines out with some kero and carby cleaner, but when they came off I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was already incredibly clean in there. So I just cleaned the bits around them on the head that you can never get a rag to once their on and cleaned the ports out from the inside. Theyre now refitted. Also, I was putting the covers back on the front of the motor and I went to fit the waterpump pulley and found out something alarming. The pulley doesnt fit. I have no idea whats going on exactly, but the bolt holes are only 50mm apart on the waterpump, and the 20v and bigport pulleys that i have here are more like 57mm hole spacing. Can anyone clarify where I can score a pulley that fits? I'm a bit annoyed because now I cannot use my alloy underdrive pulley anymore. ;) I also got the samq rear water fitting out for a test fit on the motor to see if its usable. The 20v water temp sensor fits, as does the dash gauge sender that I ripped straight out of the 4ac, but sadly the hole thats supposed to fit 1/8npt (tapered) thread isnt correct and the sensor just bottoms out. Also, the block off bung I have in that size just free spins. The hole is way over. One silver lining is that I found a shitty pressed metal socket that has a thin enough wall to let me incar swap the 20v water temp sensor, it rubs in about 3 places but somehow the dang socket turns it enough. The heater barb fouls the ISCV pipe also, but this is of little concern since my ISCV is ornamental and is being removed for a simpler unit that the adaptronic can control for me, probably from a ford or something generic like that. On the whole its a good product, but some more basic design consideration needs to be given to the exact placement of sensors and making sure you can get a tool on them. I do not want to remove my engine to swap a sensor if the thing dies. Thats super important, and the space is there to move the sensor away from the head so it should definately be done. I don't know what to say about the tapered thread not being seated, thats just a f@$kup I guess. I either have to take it to a machine shop and get it fixed or send it back to sam again and wait for him to do it. I think I prefer option one on my timeframe, since I need it Monday. I'm sort of temped to just use the modified Toyota fitting that is a known quantity. grgrgrgr.

Yes, with minimal mods. provided the back bars arent shaped like the coupe, if they just go straight down to the floor it will definately fit. Who needs a backseat?