LittleRedSpirit

I'm wondering who that's apparent to. Not me. Haha. :blinks:

That's the other funny thing, no business called Kaizen garage actually exists. Or ever did. So to have a proprietor, a business has to be in a position to need to be managed. This was never a business. Even the actual business that was run in the background has been closed (HMS Automotive). I imagine this business was just exploited for its tax benefits while it was around. This business has never had a trading name, insurance, or a trained person at the helm. The person running this scam is not a tuner, not an auto electrician, not a fabricator. Id be hesitant to even call him a jack of all trades, as that implies skill and knowledge across a broad range of areas. You have been warned.

Oh heading to, then yes, about 6:15 we left Mt Crosby to go there.

Mya well have done, shortly after 9pm I was on the cunningham highway. Mungi mods was behind me and there was a yellow HG ute in front of me. Forgot to add, the rolla does pretty sick burnouts. :blinks:

Only dodgy fools silicon them up, in a wheel as light as most vintage jap 3 piece, most of the strength comes from the weld. I wouldn't touch them if they weren't welded. I don't see them as a finished product until they are welded and spun to see if they are true.

Beerhead said it all. There is less potential in a smallport. The reason a stock one feels good and powerful is the port velocity. If you decide to cam it up, you'd be smart going for a Bigport as they already have much bigger ports and will move more air if the camshaft allows. As previously said a million times, you need to work a 16v smallport a fair bit to outstrip a 20v, and that's a lot more coin spent than simply rwding a 20v, since you will need the ecu to make the smallport accept the cams. Seriously, I see the smallport as the lazy, shortsighted mans 4age, it makes ok power stock and is among the easiest to fit, if you want a smallport for performance your dreaming. May as well start with a Bigport for that, thats what formula atlantic was all about. :blinks: Also, most smallports go for 3-500 dollars, to do a decent rebuild then youd be up for a grand. My 20v cost 800 bucks. Explain the economics of your statement if you dare?

Special bolts looked overrated, bro. It was fun to go racing tonight, really not an intimidating thing to do at all. I'm gonna expect someone else with a 4age rwd setup to come compete next time, KE70Dave, this means you. I recorded a best time of 15.654 @87.16 mph. 2.204 60 foot time. Beat an MX5, and got my ass handed to me by a couple of Toranas. :blinks:

Looking good already.

Looks awesome man, I can't wait till they are done! Epic. :yes:

If you do your best nobody can complain. That said if your best is not good you may still get no comments, or more comments about how you write than what you ask.

I'm probably going to test and tune on Wednesday night. See what it does down the 1/4 mile. A mate is taking his 430hp ute along too, so Ill cop a nice flogging no matter what. The thing does 12s. Id be stoked to break 16 seconds first time out.

I find that hard to believe. I thrash 40 gigs each month, looking for more, moving to tpg. Thats what happens when you detest advertising enough to download all your favourite shows.

It should be fine as its the thermostat that sets the temp the motor will run at. It just may open and close the thermostat a bit more, nothing to worry about usually.

Not too many here, mainly older cars, there might be a few hiding in the woodwork. You could also try twincam or some of the other more modern corolla or toyota forums. Welcome!

I'm now rocking an ae86 passenger seat. Looks a bit better in my interior as it goes with the brown, still havent fitted the steering head bearing, though.

Pretty pointless if you expect to turn corners. You can get more power from smaller engines with more reliability

Not really, will need some flaring, especially at the rear. Anything is possible.

Yes

Its right on 10klms/litre. I guess thats 10l/100klm. I used to get 12-13klms/litre. Which works out to 8 litres/100klm.

Man it pulls so hard now. So happy with how its going. Economy is marginally better now Ive reset the tps. Still wants some tuning. I picked up a new steering head bearing today. Had to order it from melbourne. Hopefully that fixes it, the housing may be shot too, but Ill swap it if I have to. I just might need to swap over the key barrel to a new housing if need be. Luckily, I have several laying around here. Anyone wanna meet up and shoot the shit somewhere this weekend, maybe go for a cruise?

t3 are fine, make sure you measure your strut top pattern when ordering as there are a few different ones worldwide, he can make whatever one you want. Make sure you measure the std top shocky bolt position and include that. You get what you pay for with shocks, expect close to 800 bucks to be spent if you want something decent. Depends if you want to go coilovers straight up or what? Maybe not worth buying awesome shocks if you arent gonna coilover it, or maybe you can choose one that will be able to be spaced out in a standard strut to begin with and then have the tubes shortened later?

Look at where the jdm ecu is above the curve. Its got more power where its convienient to have it in a street car. Not great but its a bit of a difference. I'd also like to see the ae86 ecu thrown into the mix. Ive always managed to find that the rumoured superiority that ae86 parts posses is usually hype. Id have to say id think it would be about the same power. Send him yours for a week Dave. You guys could mail swap ecus in the name of science, he has 2 of them so why not have him send you the adm one to get it going then theres no downtime? Anyhow, let the science continue. :jamie:

Drag cars run whatever diff ratio they need to hit top speed right before the finish line, doesn't matter what the tyre size is. If your hitting top speed too early, say at 300m then you might go to a taller diff to try and get a higher top speed. If you can't achieve top speed before the end of the track then you will get a lower diff ratio installed and then be able to get to a higher speed faster. Its a balance. Tyre size is something which affects the ratio you will choose but is not the sole determining factor. The fastest way down the 1/4 mile is.

Afaik there are none for the small borgwarners in the rollas. Just use a larger diff from something with lsd centres available. F series is the way to go (ma61 lsd centre ftw). If you look at Toyota commercial vehicles from the same era, they had leaf sprung diffs that arent too wide. There are a number of close matches for width, which saves the 600+ dollars to have them cut down. You will still need to move a couple of things, but its easier than reconfiguring 4 link rear ends.

Not yet. Its not far out. Needs a fiddle.