LittleRedSpirit

Hey Dave, that's really cool. I've always been curious about Canada and these are some great insights. You see many corollas there?

Any progress mate?

Got psyched on working on the car today so I did plenty. Rubbed the rough old clear coat off most of the roof and got it nice and smooth. I also removed the rear bar and fitted the number plate lights, routed the wiring and plugged in the fuel sender. I noticed that the black stainless trim around the windows was totally sun baked, split, and trapping water on the moulding forcing the stainless to corrode, so I got a razor blade and shaved it all off. Then I buffed off the corrosion with 240-800-2000 wet n dry and it looks a lot better. I removed the headers ready for them to be fixed tomorrow. I noticed a bit of stray material right in the ports so I die ground and buffed the ports out and cleaned them up nice. Same with the bottom collector. I took some photos of the space around them to show Rick so they still fit when we are done. I fitted the steering column plastic, and since I had a boss kit on there, I had to remove an even skim of plastic all around the opening where the wheel connects. I did a real neat job on the sander. I spent ages cleaning all the muck out of both doors and making sure the drain holes were free and clear. James gave me a mad tip and I was able to make the 1/4 window clips work perfectly without all the correct bits. Word to James! I removed the front right gaurd, cleaned under and inside it, and swapped to the new door hinges from AJPS. I fitted a single wire handbrake switch, so now I can fit the centre console and not dick about with the wiring any more. Then seats next time I go in. I locked off the coil over perches at a fairly tall height, just so the car remains easy to work on. I also adjusted the toe as it was toeing out badly when it wasn't on the ground. I'm sure its not perfect but its easier to push about the shop. Pumped up the tyres too, that helps. Noticed I had not installed the front sway bar links so I installed those. I found my rose joined panhard rod that's on car adjustable in the cabinet so I painted it in gold engine enamel. Ill centre the diff next timeI go in to work on it. Put wheels back on it, and then rolled it outside and washed it down with the fire hose. Its looking great IMO. Need to sort the bonnet out asap. Hunted around through the shelves and found a overrated pair of old school Toyota monogram mud flaps, so they have been cleaned and will go on the rear of the car when the time comes. Need two more matching ones to make a set.

Just spoke to Rick. I'm taking my headers in tomorrow to have the pipes swapped around and the phases corrected. Ill also grab my diff bush adapters back from him and have a go at fitting them myself just to button up the last issue under the rear end. Then when I get the headers back I can refit and check the clearance and that will be my cue to remove the motor and tidy up the last few things in the tunnel and the bay, like spotting in some lugs for my fuel lines and fitting a reverse switch to the gearbox as well as some sump mods for the motor. At which point it can go back in and be run as soon as I buy an ecu.

Today I did a bit more. Rear Swaybar fitted. Handbrake cables bolted in nicely. Not a lot of adjustment but once the shoes are worn in it should be great. I did a bit on the doors. I gutted the old mechanisms for the locks and striker, and cleaned inside. I had a tiny rust bit starting at the edge of the striker on the drivers side so I simply tin snipped it off and sanded and painted it out with silver. I fitted the new striker mechs, locks, control bars and all the clips that hold them together, only to find that the door handles I have are busted on both sides. They both have one pivot broken off them and they move around and rattle and just barely actuate the door. Long story short - 2 brand new ones have been purchased and will arrive in a week or two from Japan. I also need one door handle bezel for the inside, any colour will do as I will paint them black. I could use a better drivers door handle but not essential, the lock could feel better but works ok. I've been wding things as I go and freeing them up as best I can. Helps a lot. So I still couldn't attach the door trims and call it done. Just when you think you're done you need new parts. Oh and one more pita, the rear glass run rubber inside the door is just completely missing, so another pair of those have been ordered also. At least when it really is done its doing to be legit. Also decided I wont weld up the ac holes in the dash as I don't want to rule out retrofitting a/c down the line sometime. 2azfe a/c pumps cost next to nothing and it could easily be adapted to the ae86 system. Broken handles: Swaybar and cables all buttoned up.

Dropped by Wacol wrecker and was shocked to see they have massively downsized the amount of Japanese cars they have on the lot. Maybe 10 Toyotas. Luckily, I needed parts from an SV21 and even with 10 cars there was still 2 of them. :clover: I got the centre handbrake cable out and continued out to my mate James place at Mt Walker to have a beer and pull out the door bars from his spare car. Now thanks to James being a legend I have the door locks, matching ignition and two keys for it so I wont need to rekey later on. This weekend I can do a tonne of stuff if I get motivated. Handbrake set-up and adjustment, fit the door locks and rods, ignition lock, column plastics, door trims, and the rear sway bar.

Now I have the new door hinges and the clock surround from AJPS. Cheers Dave. Pulled the handbrake splitter out of a st185, and its the same as the ke70 one I have. lol. I'm going to make an adapter balance bar I think instead, by welding 2 of them together.

I took it for a cruise up to Toowoomba and back on Sunday to help out a mate who wrote his car off up the coast late Saturday night. Went really good it was loaded with three people and their luggage, and it got 10kl/l exactly on the return trip with a little city driving at either end. Best thing was the A/C got down to 1.8 degrees C at one point.

I think he parted it out in between making that post and hitting add reply is all. Happens all the time.

don't think so

Nah it will have a stock one fit if I want. No custom it just has borgy swaybar mounts on it.

Spewing dude. Just a good excuse to find a bigger one again. T series wont last too long with a gze I don't think. There was someone trying to sell a shortened, mount modified f series for ke70 and disc brake on here a while back for a song. Might be still for sale.

Well I figure if adding weight to the car needs a thicker bar, then adding weight to the diff might require a similar change as the heavier diff can have more momentum when in motion bouncing off potholes and bumps. I'm not really sure. Chris do you have an opinion on this from your racing background? Or is any effect as I see it handled by the springs and dampers more so? I certainly think compared to the stock diff, the same sway bars will have a different feel installed on a bigger diff. I dunno, I'm just so ʞ©$ɟing keen to finish it off right and get down to all the rewarding setup work like we are discussing now.

Thanks Chris. I pray its a torque monster when its done. I've kind of strategised towards that end, but you never know till you try and tune it exactly how it will run. ;) For me that's the great excitement about it, because I've spent so long working towards it, and for packaging reasons nobody can fit manifolds like mine to a stock 2azfe. Its really exciting wondering if and how it will perform. :osama:

Cheers Dave. I'm getting excited, I need to pop the motor out, weld in a some lugs for the fuel lines and touch up a couple spots with a hammer, and do the sump mod, and then I can put oil in the motor and box and look at purchasing an ecu for her. Ill need Justin to come back soon as I need his help with the gauges and the lights. Also he has had my idle control manifold made for me, and I'm dying to commission it and make sure it will fit and connect where I want it. I also need the sheet metal guy to rock up and grab the templates for my bonnet cap and airbox designs. I realised I've never test fitted a sway bar under the car either at the rear so I will be doing that next as well. I wonder if I should have the thicker white line one or the stock one. I wonder if the stock one will control the bigger heavier diff? Might take some testing to see. I also need the headers fixed and the wideband bung fitted. Parts to find: Lock bars and locks for the doors. Longer centre handbrake cable - 330mm ish. Rear demister switch. Pair of rear bolt on flares.

Cheers. Tail shaft fits nicely. I also noticed I had the leading brake shoe in the back on both sides so I swapped that around to be correct. I had a good look at the handbrake cables and I think I need a centre front cable that's a little bit longer than the one I have, by my calculation about 45-50mm would be ideal. Making a total length of 337mm being about perfect. If anyone reading this has one lying around please measure it, I need to find one longer than mine.

2AZ-FE AE86 now with added tail shaft.

Just ordered a new clock surround and a new pair of drivers door hinges. Received the tube that taps on the w57 in the post. Still waiting to hear about the tail shaft.

Will do, have you been receiving any texts from me? I might need your new number. There was a black plastic cap from some of your ac stuff under the bonnet when I fitted the fan, I've got it for you if you need it.

Fan fitted. Works a treat.

A skateboard with a team of bullocks to haul you along.

Running lean has nothing to do with your brake booster. You gotta think about things yourself, buy a workshop manual, and read it. You might need to remove the master to get at the booster. Remove your old booster to have it tested at a brake shop, they can put vacuum on it and see if it holds it. They can also either rebuild it or sell you a new one, or you can find a spare and have them test it, if its good, bung it in. :clover: