LittleRedSpirit

For response tuning, the transient enrich is key. I have found a couple of tuning tricks with the adaptronic that let the car come alive when the throttle is used. First one was discovering map prediction and filling the table in, that made an amazing difference, way better than tps based transient enrich as it projects and multiplies enrichment from the map, so its all referenced nicely and it works better if your tune is better. If you use this feature I find on a 20v you'd be looking at 225% gain % over 450ms. So that translates to a linear decaying enrichment of 225% of the difference in the 2 map segments you are moving between at any one time, that peters out after 450ms. Also I found it better to have a higher and more consistent level of high Map enrichment at any temp. Its a good way of getting that extra fuel the moment the map sensor senses atmospheric pressure. It also allows you to have a leaner tune that will be perfect for steady state running conditions, but to still be able to have extra enrichment when load is increased and the throttle is cracked, it works great. With itbs its hard to not have them lean out at the exact moment you crack the throttles and allow a tonne more air in there. Its not like a carby where the air brings the fuel, and the delay in low down response is to do with the limitations in the physical system. You need to meter for a change before it can be made, so for that first instant, you can see a lean moment. Plus it wouldn't be such an issue if the motor was on cam and spinning a bit faster, it would be primed and ready to spin faster, but when its spinning at idle, and has low airspeed and volume running through the engine, its hard to make it jump off the bottom. Once your over 2000rpm response is a lot better just naturally. But its real hard to get an itb car to jump off idle like a set of FCR carbs.

I had a csx ae71 with a purchase receipt that showed an original price of 11000 bucks in 1983. Thats was fully optioned with velour, and even a spoiler like a spirit. That must be the runout price of the k powered model as thats pretty cheap. I reckon Id pay 6990 in todays coin for a perfectly new one if it existed.

I thought in algebra you assumed the multiply if its phrased like that in brackets and not expressed above or below a line or with an addition or subtraction mark. Therefore I get 9. Brackets first, so 3 in there. Then do the 6/2=3. So 3(3)=9 does it not? Or is it supposed to be an unsolvable thing? I thought you just had to make assumptions to solve anything in mathematics? hah.

MMS>SMS

WGMG. Why the ʞ©$ɟ can't people use the telephone to call. I'm trying to sell something but it seems like all I ever get is people that want a 25 text conversation that could have been said in 30 seconds of actual communication. One person was trying to buy something the other day and it took 11 texts to get an insufficient offer and I had to endure and respond to stupid and pointless questions like, "how much?" one brain fart at a time, when the price is in the add for christs sake. What are you waiting for? Me to start negotiating my self down, or just a lucky mishap if I forget what I advertised it for and say something lower? If you have an offer to make make it in the first text and you might have some sort of chance at having it accepted or negotiated from. If you wast hours of my day with a drawn out message conversation then lay an offer on me 11 messages into it, then I have no reason to treat this as anything other than the pain in the arse it is and say no, as Ive already wasted a bunch of time on this shit and now I'm looking at not getting what I need from it so why the ʞ©$ɟ would I bother. Even if people have the money they can just as easily end up buying zero if they don't understand how to negotiate. You either want to buy it or you don't. If youre bored and looking for an sms buddy, just ʞ©$ɟ off already! Maybe I'm too old, but SMS is just complete shit.

All fixed now. The extension pipe has been done and they also have my wideband installed so I can retune for the new header. There are a fair few fluctuations in the tune actually. It drives fine, however the idle dropped below 1000rpm now from about 1175-1225 where it used to sit. It was barely shaking 900rpm with the new pipes fitted. Thats the difference in 4-1s I guess, less efficient down low, more efficient up high. My tuning seems to show this too. Its come out lean right off the bottom, then a bit rich once it gets on the cam and revs out. Should just take a week or two to sort it out. Then I'm going to remove the wideband and ecudatascan and store it for the 2azfe ae86 I'm building.

I honestly don't know.

And purchased. Legend.

Looks good mate. I agree with the donuts idea, but a+ for effort, its a lot of work to do ti that way, but I knwo how it is when you just want it done and make it happen.

Just a combination of heat, age, rust, vibration and occasional hecticity. They were very old when I got em. I'm kind of surprised they lasted this long. I hope the nasty hiss I had at 2800rpm goes away now. I might have some weird tuning to do now.

Bit pricey for an 01 dave.

Bit of a rare bird, so I decided to make the best of what I have. I had some new 16v 4-1s lying around so I just modified those to fit. Its just the daily I guess. I did port them though. :wootjump:

Well now I understand why my exhaust sound was getting crappy over time. Anyhow, I have obviously now removed the damaged headers, and deemed them too ʞ©$ɟed to bother fixing. They have been tossed in favour of the spare 4-1 pipes from the ae86 engine package. Unfortunately they were for 16v. So I spent a bit of time cutting the ends off the flanges and fabbing up the modifications. Now they are all painted, and installed. But not before I ported the shit out of them for a smooth flow. I never did this to the original identical 4-1 header I had on my first 20v so I am excited to see what if any difference it makes. I ran the car momentarily with them on and the exhaust not connected. Has the typical biplane sound. So tomorrow I'm off to the exhaust shop for the small extension I need at 2pm and then we are back on the road. I wanted to remove the wideband but I better keep it for a while and see how much retuning is needed with the 4-1 pipes. Ill have to have another bung fitted to it.

Sooo many cracks.

Thanks for the reply, its a bit of a rare thing, so I'm just trying to get all my options before me before I decide. In reality I might just weld em up but I'm worried the steel is kinda thin there. Either way I'm removing them today and sorting out a short term solution. I guess once their out I can cut off the old heat shield lugs and maybe fit some new ones for one of the heat shields I have in the cupboard, tidy it up a bit more in there. I guess once they're off I will be able to clean them out, and die grind the flanges smooth on the inside and tidy the ports in the pipes up a bit. I might end up parting this car due to lack of interest in it anyhow. So maybe spending another $600 on some new pipes is a bad idea when I have another car to finish.

Bargains. Ebay has been good to me lately. I got an mpc500 sampler for $270AU delivered. Woot. Also found the gaskets I need for my itbs brand new on there. The old ones I have are pretty crappy looking, the coating is coming off.

Been thinking about the fuel system. Stock pump is 135 lph and the fuel pressure used is 57psi. I'm thinking Ill use a bosch 979 pump which is 165 lph and 72psi. A little bit overrated, but not by much. I need to check the specs of my lift pump. If it moves slightly more fuel per hour then Ill use that to feed a surge tank. I think I might cut the rear floor out of the car and fit the aftermarket fuel cell and surge tank under the floor, and move the spare over. Might save some weight and do away witht he molested wheel well. I die ground some old rust repairs yesterday and primed them, and I also tidied the manifold and ordered the left hand nuts for the tensioner. I'm ready to rip the motors out of the ae86 and the halfcut. Ill sell the bigport n t50 combo with manifolds from the ae86. Ill drop the motor and flywheel setup over to npc to have the flywheel modified so I can use stock Y series clutch and starter parts. Then when I get it back I can fit the motor, box, coilovers, diff and all suspension into the shell and look at doing the floor repairs then when I am flaring arches. I'm torn between parting out the 20v car and keeping the wheels or just letting her live on and then buying some others.

Hello. Ive just snapped my exhaust manifold on my 20v ae71. Looking at options for the replacement of them as my fabricator is a bit busy right now. Ive seen the OBX tri-y type - $about $600 landed. Ive also seen the obx stainless 4-1s - About $375 landed. Kaizens crap - not worth 2 cents. Toda - $1200+ freight Malaysian Toda copies on ebay - $400 landed but don't look equal length. There are the cx racing headers on ebay with the high rise design, they will be available in 6 weeks for 20v conversion apparently, - $500 landed. Just wondering if there are any other people know of out there. Id prefer mild steel but SS would be ok if its of a decent thickness. Ive heard the horror stories of obx headers hitting firewalls. The CX racing ones look like they are looks over performance, since there is such a huge tight bend straight out of the port. don't want to support Malaysian knockoff artists and doubt their ability. Toda is wonderful but who wants to spend that kind of money for this kind of solution? OBX tri-y look ok but I have similar quality doubts on them and they look like the primaries and secondaries are extremely short, its barely a try-y. Does anyone have any experiences with these options or can they present any more?

Sorry bout my no show guys. I was missing my rolla, so I went and tried to fix a couple of things on it, had success but it was just the tacho wire and the starter cable that I fixed. I wasnt able to weld up the headers and just got home. You guys still down there?

And I can't bring my rolla, the headers are snapped.

So my missus wants to come. Her name is Julia. We only live down the road. SO if there are not many other Wags there she might toddle off home.

Tensioner is 100%.

20v injectors are side feed and 16v ones are top feed. I think ohmage is different but not sure, can't remember. Anyhow, you will be using a top feed injector as the 20v injectors will not come naturally with the quads installation. The 16v injector is in the head. There are some benefits of placing the injector a little further upstream for high rpm like was done on the 20v, but get them too far from the valve and you will run badly down low. Then you start getting into complicated dual injector territory. The setup you refer to will have a 16v 4age top feed injector in the top of each inlet port. The throttle bodies themselves are remounted on another manifold to adapt it to 16v ports, so you lose those injectors in the 20v manifold. You don't need upstream injection unless you are running over 6500rpm constantly I wouldnt think. So just use the stock 16v injectors. Without boost or any ridiculous engine building, I don't think you could need to upgrade. You will need to clean them however.