harun

While you are at it might as well squirt some morning fresh into the engine an petrol tank to give it a nice sparkly clean a fresh smell...

I have recently rebuilt my Toyota 3K.In the process i have gone all out and basically built the guts out of it from full head and bottom work ie larger valves, dual valve springs match porting-polishing, oversize pistons an a increase of compression to 10:1.Dizzy has been recurved and regraphed and set to 10' BTDC on 98 ron. Now my question is will i require a colder spark plug for this setup or can i use the stock NGK BP5ES.In which case I would like to purchase pulse spark plugs. http://www.pulstar.com/ If i do have to run colder any suggestions as to which one?

I paid roughly $900-$1000 dollars in headwork including new parts and match porting my su manifold.

Robert, I couldnt tell you as to how hard it was because my machine shop did all the work.From what they told me and what i could see there was alot of meat ground out of the head to make room.But they much larger valves than standard K ones.

Cheers fellas, I have worked the bad boy... Full bottom end balance, new endurotec 60thou oversize pistons. Hot head with 10:1 comp, bigger ports & polished, toyota 4y engine valves an guides, dual valve springs, reground cam & recurved dizzy. Will be using 98 octane without the need of leaded subsitute.

They are -8 fuel lines... And -10 for oil cooler lines...

Updated previous post....

don't sell the Mazda stuff.... Just slap the rotor in it an call it a day.Drive it like the really pig it shouldl be.. :bash:

And here is a picture of my kit on a NA' 3K. Taz, hopefully will be on the road by the end of the year. Preparing the KE20 shell for some fresh paint at the moment. I also could not resist spending some big bucks on some speedflow fittings & braided lines.

What the hell...thats a deposit for a house :bash: lol

From what i can tell i have tensioned it tight but not too tight.The belt has teeth on it so there is so much you can stretch it.I have not operated the engine yet as it still on the stand.

I have done it on my 3K engine.... :bash: They look the bomb..

DO ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!

x-ray vision...hehe

yella any luck with the powdercoating?

Just use silicone...

WTF..speak english man, not jiberish....people don't understand morse code.

Rust is a disease...how could that be better than a painted bonnet regardless of colour..

This maybe out of your way but try this place www.colorurmags.com.au Ask for craig..tell him harun sent you..his relativly cheap an does a really good job..completly strips the wheels before coating them..

I too would also be interested to find out...

Hello.... My question is who can I obtain a new fuel pump spacer from for a 3k? I have had no luck with bursons as all their suppliers and permaseal gaskets have discontinued making them. I was instructed to seek the part from toyota genuine parts, however i do not think they will be much help.. Thanks in advance...

And hence your question has been answered... The only legal way is no way at all....

Ok cool, So what would be my specs for valve clearance on the cold? I presume i have to set it to hot clerances once the engine is at operating temp?

I should have posted a new topic instead of writing in someone elses..... I have just degreed my cam in today and got to setting the tappet clearences of the 3k.I have consulted the sheet that was given to me by my re-grinder and it states.Running clearance IN .017 and Ex 0.17.Now my question is, are those the tappet clearances i should use when the valves are hot or cold? Cheers for an help in advance..

This may deviate away from the topic but i think i should post it up here rather than making another post. I have just degreed my cam in today and got to setting the tappet clearences of the 3k.I have consulted the sheet that was given to me by my re-grinder and it states.Running clearance IN .017 and Ex 0.17.Now my question is, are those the tappet clearances i should use when the valves are hot or cold?