kangaroosa

Webers generally pull alot more money than Dellortos. Its not uncommon to see a pair of 40mm Webers sell for $600+ on ebay. I rarely see a pair of webers in decent condition sell for under $400. Whereas excellent condition Dellortos can be purchased for $250. Have a scout through ebay and see what sort of prices they go for these days.

The rego label on my KE30 2 door states 'TARE 900kg'

Someone was kind enough to start stripping the rear of the car before i got to it. They were basically loose, so i just tied a random bit of rope to them and gave a big tug from a meter or two away. Dropping the diff/components would be the cheaper method if he didnt want to buy a spring compressor. Depending how low he is going, he may need a spring compressor to get the springs back into his Corolla anyway.

The rear of EB Falcons are the same coil diameter as KE30/55. The chopped ones that I used to have in my car were 16mm thick wire compared to 12-13mm stock KE30/55 springs. But you will have to chop them in half to get a decent ride height (and then void any insurance yadda yadda). Then there is the stiff as all buggery ride! Alternatively, you can just get custom springs made up for $140 and keep your car roadworthy.

I saw that episode only a few weeks back. I still have it saved somewhere. What they did to that car basically rendered it useless to be used as a daily driven car (which his car was to begin with). Hope the guy sold it and bought something practical without "steal me" plastered all over it!

Try reading the FAQ. CLICK I'm sure you find a heap more information if you use the seach feature too.

Mine used to jump out of 1st and 2nd gear. Turned out to be a bolt had fallen out of the gearbox crossmember, so the the box was leaning over and the shifter would hit the tunnel and knock itself out of gear during heavy launches. The only time i change the gearbox or diff oils is when i break them. Thats about 1 every 7 years so far.

Your charge light doesnt tend to glow at all? I did the same procedure as you, however i had mine rebuilt to 70amps. Ever since that, the charge light filament tends to glow a little especially when the heater is on. You seem very happy with the outcome anyway.

Whether you should lock the diff or not, can all be decided upon by one question. Do you have Insurance? If yes, then don't lock it. If you decide to lock it, then you may as well cancel your insurance and spend your refund on getting the diff locked.

CLICK

The only TRD upgrade pack that I ever read about whilst having a crack at googling for you, was a suspension upgrade. Not even a mention of an engine/power upgrade was spotted in the many pages I visited. I don't know about anyone else, but I couldnt even locate a webpage that was solely about Neal Bates. Let alone searching for info on the supposed page.

His name is actually 'Neal'. Not that it found me anything of use to you anyway. :D Just the STANDARD one

I emptied 1/3 of a tank during a 45min drive to the airport, when i was running late for a flight on Tuesday morning. Never actually done a test with my twins on, but I am 100% positive that i get more than 350kms.

I had a bit of a play this morning with it. I've got the inner gaurd all hammered out and sort of resembling a straight car. The inner gaurd faired better than i expected actually. Luckily the bumper reinforcement/support bar took a heap of the impact. I will have to wait for new panels to arrive before i can fine tune it and make sure the gaurds will bolt up. Also got a few quotes on parts (Bonnet, Front Bar and reinforcement bar, Front Gaurd,Headlight and Indicator, Filler Panel). $720 from the first place (dreamers!) and $563 delivered to my door from another. I could get them much cheaper at a wreckers, but finding a car that has all the parts i need proved to be harder than expected. I would have to pull apart at least 3 cars from two different wreckers to get all the necessary undamaged parts that I need. Let me tell you, that these cars are not as easy to work on as a Corolla. Everything is bolted to each other. To get to one simple part, you need to pull the whole front assembly off to get to it. Melbourne has finally got some decent rain and all the wreckers have pools of water under the cars. I would rather pay a few hundred extra to have all the parts removed and delivered rather than lay in a pool of oily water. So I am going with the $563 quote as above. Hopefully will have them Tuesday. Heres two pics of before and after I hammered the inner gaurd out this morning.

I believe mine is shimmed 3mm. Under full throttle, the most pressure i get is around 80psi. At idle its about 15-20psi at 1000rpm.

None of which have seen 8000rpm continuously either, i bet. :cool:

Some great info in your post. However i got my lifters just 3 weeks ago, for the price stated in my previous post. Just thought i would clear that up, incase it discouraged anyone who is on a budget. For anyone thats looking into purchasing solid lifters (and you don't need them now or tomorrow), i would suggest purchasing the lifters from Crow Cams direct over the phone. They can mail them out to you and it would still be cheaper than buying them through repco or supercheap. Interesting about not blocking the oil passages when converting from hydro to solid too. I heard its normally the done thing to block the passages. Simply using a 4k gasket, instead of a 5K gasket with the cutouts in it. I will be converting back to solids again in the coming months, so its nice to know that i wont have to bother worrying about that aspect of it.

I'm pretty sure the woman at Crow Cams told me that both the Chev and Holden solid lifters are the same part number. Solid Lifters PART NO. APPLICATION MODEL DIAMETER OIL THRU PUSHROD AT2000 Ford V8 and Crossflow .872" Yes AT992 GM Chev and Holden .840" Yes AT2084 Chrysler Hemi 6 .902" Yes AT937 Chrysler Slant 6 & V8 .902" No VT2071 Volvo Pushrod engines No

I got quoted $205 per wheel for 15" X 7" superlites. If the wheels are for race purposes, they can make the wheels with a steel inner section where the wheel bolts to the car. The superlites look awesome in real life, as I saw a selection of rims in the Melbourne distributors showroom. Really well manufactured wheels.

I just purchased a complete set (16 actually) of Chev solid lifters from Crow Cams, here in Melbourne. They are sold in boxes of 16, and i'm not sure if they are willing to seperate them. They are normally $6 each ($96 for 16), however I made the trip out there and paid $75 cash for 16 of them (2 sets for a Corolla). All the Chev solid lifters are the same, and carry the same part number. They are 50mm long, and 0.840" in diameter. *EDIT* The Crow Cams part number is AT992-16

Yes, you are right. There are two types of write off, that i know of. Repairable (economical write off) and Structural write off (the one woodstock is thinking of). Both of which exist in Victoria as well as the NT. Possibly other states? Mine is repairable, and will be repaired.

Well, the assessor called today and confirmed that its a total loss (economic write off/repairable write off). I will be getting paid out $4150 and get to keep my car. The car is insured for $4550, but i am being charged $400 to buy it back. I just called the claims department and they confirmed that the paperwork has been lodged. I have to speak to the bloke in charge in the morning, to find out exactly what the situation is. I asked if its illegal for me to be driving the car now, and was informed that my car is classed as a write off on his computer and that my car is not isured anymore. Oh great! So now i just put some springs back in my Corolla, and am trying to find a family member to take it for a wheel alignment either tomorrow or Saturday so i can drive a Registered and Insured car to work next week!! Unfortunately I am working on Saturday too, so its looks like i will have to get a cover note from an insurance company tonight to get me by for 2 days. I am going to hit the wreckers on Sunday to pick up the necessary parts to get the old girl back on the road and in RWC, hopefully within the next few weeks. Hopefully the inner gaurd is not too damaged. That also means that i will have to cancel the Rego, and re-register it when the car is back in a road worthy state. At least i will be interstate for the next week or two for work, so my car wont be getting driven. I will be in Penrith from Wednesday to Friday next week and I will be in Cannon Hills (aparently 5mins North of Brisbane CBD?) the following Monday for a few days. Thanks for the well wishes too guys. :cool:

Well, Mothers Day turned a bit sour for me. I was driving in a straight line down Springvale road when a Commodore failed to give way, and decided to make a right hand turn right across infront of me. My front drivers side collided with his lhs front gaurd. 40-50kmh impact.....one of the less violent ones i have been in. The Panel shop quoted at least $5000 to fix the damage using genuine parts. Considering the car is insured for $4550, he suggested that it will be an economical write off. The assessor came and looked at the car whilst i was at work, am i'm yet to hear what his decision is. The visual damage consists of Front Gaurd, Bonnet (payed to have that resprayed 6 months ago :cool: when the car was in the panel shop being repaired after a Mazda 6 rear ended me), Bumper, Headlight, metal trim under grill, rhs section of the radiator support panel, most likely the inner gaurd/engine bay where the top of the front gaurd bolts on. The car drives fine, and luckily the suspension and chassis were spared. If they write it off (due to the expense to fix it) hopefully i will have the opportunity to buy it back. All being well, i'll do most of the work and have a panel shop respray it and fix the bent radiator support panel. However, if a panel shops price for a cash job comes in under budget, i'll probably just handball it to them. To top it all off, the 3rd party is uninsured. So hopefully the legal side of things don't drag out too long, and i either get a payout or have my car repaired soon.

CLICK

There is a place next door to 'paintmobile' in dandenong/keysborough. The bumper place is actually in Bennet Street. A mate had his done there years ago, and they did a good job. (when i say years, i mean 10). They are still there, so it might be worth giving them a call. CLICK