kangaroosa

Check all the brake line connections for leaks maybe? Its possibly leaking from where you disconnected the brake line from the calliper. When you were bleeding the brakes. Did you allow the pedal to be pushed flat to the floor? I hear it basically kills the master cylinder/brake booster if you allow the pedal to fall to the floor.

Peter is a bloke from Clayton, Melbourne. He has a mechanical workshop that does servicing and mechanical repairs. He is also a huge Toyota collecter and seller. If you need a certain part from an old corolla, the chances of him having one is pretty good. His whole workshop is filled with Toyota parts. His current cars for sale currently include a Publica, KE10's, KE25's and a few KE30's. I actually dropped in to see him on the weekend. The KE10 has the Pedal box, 5K and K50 installed. They also fitted new front brakes from another corolla which involved drilling and tapping something..... Theres just a few bits of wiring and the exhaust needs to be hooked up, then its ready to be driven out the door.

Better Yet......You could bump it forward to either Moday, Tuesday or Wednesday next week when i will be in town. Well Southport to be exact. :n: Shame i wont be around for the dinner though.

Welcome to the club mate. Did I read correct that your dad owns a Toyota wrecker? Would be a great contact for getting Corolla parts and the like.

CLICK You do have to concede that the Dodge driver is lacking slightly. An LSD would have helped him too i suppose.

Search 'Peter Robinson Automotive' in the whitepages. He would have some. If he doesnt, he will get some for you. Alternatively, there are quite a few corollas at Jolly Rodger Wreckers on Greens road Dandenong. Infact there is one Excellent condition KE30/55 with a Perfect dash, and spotless stock interior. (I don't know if KE330/55 strut tops are interchangeable with your car (KE10/15 from memory), but its worth investigating as there are heaps of them at wreckers) Centre Road wreckers generally have a quite a few old Corolla's.

Block of wood under the LCA and a big hammer for the ball joint removal. You may need a fork to seperate the steering plate though. Drench it in WD40 the night before. Strut tops can be purchased from this link. A bit pricey though. GT Suspension

I spotted a newer model Corolla today pulling into the 7 Eleven service station on City Rd in South Melbourne. Red hatchback with a red Rollaclub sticker on the hatch window. I didnt realise we had any new model corolla's from VIC on the forum. I was in the CDS work truck by the way (if you happen to read this).

This pic illustrates it.

Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut. On mine, there is a slot cut through the bracket. That allows me to bend the bracket upwards (creating a larger opening) so i can slip the brake line out.

Is the whole shaft/nut spinning? I forgot to loosen the nut once before i took the strut out.....so i used vice grips on the strut shaft inbetween the spring (with a rag to protect the shaft). Once they are clamped on and you have a firm grasp on it, try loosening the nut. You may need a pole extension on your breaker bar to give more leverage.

The whole strut will have to come out. -Before you jack up the car, loosen the 19mm? nut underneath that plastic cap pictured. -Jack up the car and remove the wheel. -Unbolt the caliper and hook it up with wire so its not dangling off the brake line. Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut so the strut is free from the brake line. -Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the the strut (where it bolts to the ball joint and steering plate). -Remove the 3 12mm nuts from the strut top pictured. -Then just drop the whole strut out. -Remove and replace the strut top. -Reinstall. Easy as that. 10mins work if all goes to plan without any drama's. P.S. If you have got standard springs, you may need to use a spring compressor before removing and replacing the strut top. If you have lowered springs, chances are you wont need to compress them because of the shorter spring height.

The whole dash looks stock. The MP3 unit fits nicely. Not sure what goes in its place normally (stock radio i guess?) but it sure doesnt look out of place. The standard gauges are stock and look brand new. The colour is awesome in real life. Its not really fluro, but more so a rich vibrant green. It actually suits the car in my opinion. I'm not really a fan of standard coloured cars though. Its got its own personality now.

Heres the link to the KE10 i mentioned above. CLICK

Last week whilst in Peter Robinsons workshop, this little gem grabbed my attention. Its a fully restored and customised KE10. Bright green paint, similar to kawasaki green. All chrome work is immaculate. The interior has been reupholstered with sporty seats in the front. The rears have been treated to grey and white leather. New carpet on the floor and a clean install of an MP3 headunit. Its in Peters workshop to get treated to K50 and 5K transplant. Obviously the pedal box will be replaced too. The most amazing part of the story, is that the bulk of the work was done by a dentist in his spare time for his young daughter. The bloke obviously is talented in his profession, and equally as talented on the tools. The pics arent working. So try this link instead. CLICK

I spotted a kawasaki/kermit green KE10 parked in Peter Robinsons workshop. Its a very nice car with a full restore. The owner is apparently a charming young lady, and her father a dentist did all the restoration work. I'll post pics of it in off topic later for all of rollaclub to admire.

I have 15" x 7" on my KE30. +5 offset on the front and +25 on the rear. If I had the +25 on the front they hit the strut, so i have them on the rear. I have +5 on the front (i guess they are +2 now that i had 3mm machined off them) and they clear the strut by <10mm. The fill out the front gaurds nicely. The rear wheels sit in a bit further than i would have hoped, but since i refuse to run spacers and i purchased the wheels 2nd hand off a Datsun........I have learnt to live with it.

All panel beaters wouldnt bother spraying acrylic unless you specify it. Even then they will try to talk you out of it. It will most likely cost more in the long run with all the rubbing back and buffing time associated with it. I just had the whole front of my daily painted at Bucket Panels in Moorabbin. Cash job was $670 including them rubbing it back in prep and giving the whole car a cut and polish. (2 front gaurds, bonnet, front bar, filler panel, grill, and blended through the doors. Awesome job! They were the cheapest in Moorabbin if that helps.

Or a Vasectomy.....I'm sure having children has its benefits. Maybe when they are old enough, the good lady wife will let you have another Rolla so the kids can tinker too.

About 900rpm, maybe a touch under.

Thats how it idled when it was warm. I could drop the rpms a touch and get it sounding better, but the oil pressure suffered and the alternator wasnt charging properly. I had twin 1.5" SU's on it at the time.

Coil bind is where the valve spring fully compresses, thus limiting the movement of the valve. Its a bad thing :) I have a movie of my old 4k kicking around somewhere. I'll look for it now. *EDIT* Found it, and here is the very very short version of it. CLICK

I should have added that all the bushes I listed above are Polyurethane. Both Super Pro and Nolothane were used to make up the complete set. If possible, do a check check/guess measure of the bushes you can get to. I noticed the KE30's share a few different sized bushes between models/years. One of the two companies catalogues don't list as many part numbers as the other. I found out the hard way after all the parts were ordered from one catalogue, but a handfull of them were wrong. After consulting the other catalogue, we found more part numbers for certain items.

I had a 290degree cam with 0.480"Lift in my old 4K with standard springs. No Idle issues at all. It was mistaken for a rotary a heap of times. All of my K motors have always had similar cams to this......I guess its just the rotary wannabe in me. :) That engine used to love the high revs (4000-7500rpm). Anything under 3500rpm and it was just a standard 4K. All that meant is that I cruised in 3rd gear instead of 4th. Or 4th instead of 5th. I realise you have a 4ac, but I assume the principles would be similar.

don't know about it not idling well with a light flywheel. Mine seemed to idle fine when i had a VERY lumpy cam in it. My flywheel is only 1.4kgs lighter than standard, so its not a massive difference on the scale of things. I doubt if i had two identical motors in my cars... one with and one without a lightened flywheel, that i could tell the difference. The only reason i had mine lightened was that i took it in to have the clutch face machined. I enquired about lightening it, and he quoted me about $50 extra. So I said why not, and gave him the go ahead.