kangaroosa

I just recently replaced everything on my KE30. Tie rod ends, sway bar bushes (d shaped and circular), strut bar bushes, ball joints, LCA bushes, front and rear eye bushes on the leafspring..... All up it was over $200 but under $300 i think. My parts bloke stuffed me around so i got them in dribs and drabs as he ordered wrong parts etc. so i don't have a complete receipt to refer too.

I purchased my springs from these blokes years ago. I was browing their online parts section and found these interesting items. GT Suspension They have a heap of listings for corollas in all the different companies listed. Koni, Noltec, Whiteline, Lovells etc. They are not the cheapest, but they are in Melb (not overseas) and are pleasant to deal with. Theres also a few items on there that i didnt realise existed for corollas.

I had my 32/36 tuned there many years ago when they were on Cheltenham Rd. They moved from Cheltenham Rd over 12months ago to Foster St. I noticed poor fuel consumption on my car back then after they rebuilt and and tuned my carby. So i took it back and it turned out that they didnt do up a hose clamp, so it was just pumping raw fuel out onto the road. Luckily fuel wasnt so expensive back then.

Its a bit older than what you were looking for, but i reckon you can't go past a SSS Pulsar for a zippy reliable daily car. PGA Thats a bloody good price for a SSS with all the mods listed. SSS Ebay

I had a throttle linkage jam on between gear changes. My right foot 'was' pressed firmly against the floor. As i switched the ignition off, I saw my tacho needle falling from 11,500rpm. I broke 3 inner valve springs, and no damage to the bottom end. The same engine sees 6000rpm a few times a week, and occassionally 7500rpm. My engine is balanced, and has a lightened flywheel.

Mammi motors are the cheapest around. $40-50 labour per hour. With weber and dellorto carbs, they do change over service. So your not paying full price for new jets Mammi motors also has a dyno, but they arent able to print off a results sheet. Not sure about SU parts though, as i never had my old set tuned there. When i had my Dellortos tuned from scratch, they charged me about $170. That included them stuffing around fixing and welding part of my linkages. Fitting a new fuel pressure regulator, change over of jets and dyno time. A very reasonable price considering i was preparing myself for around the $300 mark. When i had SU's, I shopped around to all the Mini, Triumph and MG servicing workshops in SE Melb. None of them had a dyno, and the one bloke that they all recommended had retired 6 months previously. There are plenty of workshops around that will stick the analyser in your exhaust and just balance and tune the idle of the SU's. But as for swapping needles, jets and springs...well i was hard pressed to find someone competant enough to do so, and have a dyno at the same time. I approached a competant bloke to tune my SU's, on the proviso that he come to another workshop and tune them on the other blokes dyno. I was willing to pay both the blokes their hourly rates. The dyno owner was more than willing to provide the dyno, but the tuner couldnt be convinced to go to another workshop to tune them for me. I threw my hands up in the air and whacked some Dellortos on. So I hope you have more luck than me finding an SU specialist.

This is a heads up for anyone running side draft carbs on a K engine. Today my brakes started to feel rather spongey and not normal at all after leaving a building site. After a few sets of lights and about five pumps of the pedal to get some pressure everytime i wanted to stop, a huge plume of smoke drifted past my car as I came to a stop each time. I knew something bad was wrong, so I limped back to work and parked my car. I returned a few hours later to find a huge pool of brake fluid under my car. My K&N air filter had rubbed a hole through the metal brake line that runs from the block on the firewall, to the LHS front calliper. Hence my spongey brakes and smoke from brake fluid on my extractors. I tried to drive the car to see if i could limp home with minimal brakes and the use of the handbrake, and also topping up the fluid level. No Chance! The pedal went straight to the floor. So i decided to cut the line and kink it over, isolating the problem and hoping to drive home with 3 brakes. After many failed attempts to kink and seal the line, i went to a mechanic two doors down and picked his brains Fortunately he had a rogue bleeding bolt from a brake calliper that he gave to me. I simply screwed that into the diverter block on the firewall, therefor isolating the LHS brake line. I picked up a brake line and some fluid on the way home and changed it. So I guess this is just a heads up for all those out there to check they don't have the same problem as me. My car has a lopey cam and the engine shakes a fair bit. So the airfilters are that much closer to the brake line when the engine is cold and shakey. If you get stuck like me, you may be able to undo the bleeder bolt from your calliper and plug the diverter block on your firewall with that.

Some movies of similar strips and the Pilatus Porter CLICK CLICK

Clive Cams Fcty 4/ 35 -37 Clyde St Ferntree Gully 3156 (03) 9758 5977 I will get in touch with him later in the week, to get a cam grind done but am keen to know if he works saturdays at all?

Thought I would back it up with a pilot who has true skills. CLICK Take-Offs from this runway would be an eye opening experience for the passengers. There doesnt appear to be alot of runway left after the pilot slows down sufficiently.

The Russian Judge scored him 10/10. CLICK

One of the comments suggested that this happened at the goodwood festival of speed. CLICK

I used to have a few Yugo mates, and yep Jip is right. I can give you a whole lesson in profanities.......thats the extent of my Yugo/Croation word database.

CamTech in NSW has a good selection of cam grinds for both 5K hydraulic and 3K/4K Solids. I am planning on getting a Tighe grind when i can afford to have to Rolla off the road. Crow cams have a very limited selection. Apparently their main grind is the same as an MGB. I was planning on getting a Wade cam, because they are local. But i have been stuffed around with week long delays in answering my emails, and then i couldnt get the information that i wanted. Even on the phone, they werent too forth coming with their insight. So i'm in two minds about using them.

My starter is just an off the shelf aftermarket item. Its not as chunky as the one pictured, but rather is cylindrical. I just flick my key when the cars warm and it fires straight away. Even when its cold, the starter cranks faster than any standard toyota starter that i have ever owned. I doubt replacement starters would be reduction items, so maybe its got something to do with me running a 570CCA battery? I guess the size of the battery doesnt affect the initial cranking rpm, but rather the duration that it can crank for. :P

More than one tone Air horns generally play like music. You press and hold the horn button, and the full song plays. So unless you press the horn for <1second, the note will most likely change. Thus alerting the police to your musical air horn. I have had mates that have been defected during roadside roadworthy inpsections because the police have spotted multiple air horn pipes. Besides that, musical airhorns old and lame.

The only notation that VicRoads have is that "All vehicles must be fitted with one or more effective horns, or other audible warning devices which produce a steady sound with a constant pitch". This includes single note Air Horns. Kinda rules out La Cucaracha and the likes of.

Mmm SR20......the thought has crossed my mind many a time. However i quickly snap back to reality, that the Pulsar is my daily. The only reason I bought this car was because that its fuel efficient and unbelievably reliable. So when the time comes, i'll drop the engine and just freshen it up. The car still drives fine and am still getting 520kms from 45L, so I don't expect to be dropping the engine any time soon. Forgot to add that I scored some Genie extractors from the wreckers for $48. The car had a full exhaust, however the rear muffler was welded on and rusted out. So i'll either go back with a hack saw,or just get a new exhaust made.

Well folks, the car is finally painted and re-assembled. Thanks to the insurance company for economically writing it off, I was able to spend the money upgrading/fixing my car. $1300 in parts and paint......considering two panel shops quoted $5000. I sourced the new panels/parts and bolted them on. Some slide hammer work on the radiator support panel and inner gaurd was needed. Then the car was sent off to Bucket Panels in Moorabbin, where they did great job of matching paint colours and blending it into the existing panels. The car was also treated to a new Exedy Sports Tuff clutch. New front slotted rotors and Bendix GCT pads. New driveshaft oil seals and 4 brand new Yokohama S Drive tyres and clear side indicators. Now all i have to do is get a Roadworthy Certificate, register and Insure it. Fortunately, Shannons Insurance didnt notify VICROADS of the incident (probably because of the lack of structural damage) thus I don't have to get a VIV inspection (Vehicle Identification Validation) which costs $440+. Replacing the clutch did reveal one sad story though. Whilst undoing the flywheel bolts, I noticed the engine has bugger all compression. I could rotate the flywheel in full revolutions by hand. The gearbox was hard enough to change by myself. I don't even want to think about dropping the motor as well.

At least the bulk of the metal went downwards I guess. I have seen a movie of a rotary powered wagon that had a flywheel explode. Bits of metal went upwards and fell amongst the spectators at the drag strip.

Thanks. Fixed again. :jamie:

The lettering on both look very different to each other as well. Some of the others on ebay have huge "DRINK" lettering. So its safe to say there are alot of remanufactured versions on the market.

EBAY EBAY There is a few different versions/copies of the item on ebay. Don't know if any of them are genuine, but none are pulling a high price tag at them moment.

The website has changed within the last few months. It used to have details of their Distributors for each state. As stated, most of the major tyre places are able to order them in for you though.

When I was shopping around for Performance Superlites, I was told the racing versions simply had a steel plate insert where the wheel bolts to the hub. Supposably to give the bolt area more strength, and to comply with regulations in regards to acceptable wheels for use in motor racing. All the quotes I got for 15" Superlites were $205 per wheel. Custom made to your size and offset that you require. No mention was made about the racing versions being lighter however. I'm not calling anyone a liar, but it may be that the salesman forgot to mention that small detail to me.