Bowler

+1

Errrr....once again, correct me if I'm wrong, same size piston, covering the same swept area due to same pads being used between series 1 vented and series 2 vented. Slightly smaller (?) piston used on solid brakes... so the gripping power of the piston would be greater on the vented models as opposed to the solid one - however, the braking torque would be greater on the S2 calipers due to the piston/pad being located further out. the braking torque (for equivalent force applied) between the solid and the s1 vented, would swing the way of the solid rotor.

it was implied :y: oh well...hehe "Me fail english? That's unpossible..."

S1 rotors are smaller in diameter, but vented - thus they can dissipate the heat build up much more efficiently than the standard solid rotors (there's only 4 mm difference). the S1 calipers are 18 mm thick too, compared to (off memory) 13mm. The S2 rotors are 258x22mm, so 20mm larger in diameter, and 4mm thicker. Grip is determined by your tyres, but yes, as the brakes suffer from heat effects less, you get a better stopping consistency over the standard solid rotors, and also lessen the chance of glazing the pads, as the heat build-up is much less... and to a lesser extent, because of the heat dissipation, you can modulate the brakes much easier - although doing up in diameter as well, makes for a more noticeable difference when it comes to modulation

Series 1 or 2? often a good set of pads will make a good difference for the most part (aka, general day to day duties). but if your destined for the mountains or the track, then yes, they do make an awful difference. Johno has S1 calipers on his car, and he's extremely happy with the performance over his old ones - he has stock rear end setup. I'm running S2 (larger rotors) but am finding that the bias is a little front heavy (a common criticism). Mind you, she stops very nicely in the process, and i'm just being picky...

I Have an LE Nova :y:

Firstly, the jack points are in the middle of the front and rear sub members, but remember to never get under a car unless supported by jack stands. give this a read through too, http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopic=1063 - that'll give you the basic run down on whats what and how to. Also, for the sway bar, do you have the links/front control arms, and the chassis mounts? these are a must. Cheers

Hey man, forgot to tell you - theres a returned carport at work - manager says 50 bucks, and you can have it - does have a couple of bent poles, but hey, sort out a few spares, chuck the rest - the tarps for the roof alone are worth 70...let me know soonish if you want me to hold it for you...

Spotted KE20, dark blue with cannon driving across Glenferrie Rd in Kew today

Hahaha....When was the last Japanese car made with imperial measured parts?

well, theres nothing stopping someone organising it for around late Feb - early March...

Woot - another Vic ae9x member...

Great Vid Mate :)

hey kim, look anything like this? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=21727

Supposedly, talking to a Instruments expert a little while ago, that shorter cable has a dendancy to break - apparently your local toyota dealer should have them on the shelf for about $25 or so. but go through all the trouble shooting first - just start there :)

Damn you work quickly...Very impressed with the gearbox man, you should be proud

bout to say - you'd hope toyota would've had it right the first time...plus, she's a fairly sturdy fit once installed...

Damn...I'm spewing I missed that game...

do you drive to work? or train it? I live within a Bee's proverbial of Glenferrie Station...or Burwood Rd for that matter...

Dinner with rels I haven't seen in ages...hey, just for jersys and the like, where do you work Dave - was going to finish them this morning, and maybe drop them off to you for tonight...

Sweet. Count me down for shirt and sticker :jamie: Also, i don't mind lending a hand with food prep/cooking...depends on how many bbqs we occupy :no2:

I shouldn't think too much, but it means you can run later model suspension gear - aka, sx/gti front setups, etc...

look, i'm just goin off personal experience, and the 5 or 6 manuals all saying the same thing

Try Burson's...might have better luck there...

All 4a blocks are the same more or less. (In terms of mounting points, they are. As such, all heads are interchangeable. However, the 4age blocks I believe are of a slightly stronger design, and if you plan on doing a head transfer, it would be easier to replace the whole engine, for the sake of making sure you have the stronger bottom end. Also, if you change the head, keep in mind that you well need to change the wiring loom and computer to suit....