parrot

The other advantage of this style of tacho is a reduction in coil load. As the needle sweeps across the tacho rather than upwards as on the traditional style, the inductive stress on the coil is reduced with a resultant increase in coil output. As a consequence, engine pickup is improved and top speed increases of 5kph can result.

I saved a woman at the shops once. Had locked her keys in the car. Went in to the butchers and got a piece of packing tape. Had never done it before but heard how to do it. Didn't even take 20 seconds. Rather than say thanks, she gave me the most venomous glare you can imagine, got into her car and drove off.

I think white faced gauges look crap, but I don't slag people who choose to fit them. Mattress is right, to each there own.

Yep. They were an aftermarket item, that also seems to have been available as a dealer fitment in some cases.

Laws can be vague, insurers however won't be. When it is all said and done, your best option is to enquire in writing to the engineering dept at the head office motor registration branch. Good luck with it.

Meanwhile back at the ranch.....:rolls: As per Altezzaclub, a 2T or 3T would be the way to go. You will need to source the correct crossmember and front suspension including struts, brakes and steering knuckles, but should be easy to find in the states. A 5 speed gearbox (T50 from a T series engine) bolts straight on, but I am not sure how readily available they are in the states. Later boxes T50 boxes have the gearstick located differently but easily managed. Note there are T50 boxes that bolt behind 4A/4AGE engines which won't bolt up to a T series engine. Jump on to 3TCgarage.com US based website with a wealth of knowledge on these cars and engines.

The one flaw to your plan is that the engine had to be available in Australia as an option, so unless it is a TE72 which already has a T engine in it, you will need to mod plate it.

Not me. I have silvertop quads, blacktop loom and ECU for a rainy day, but love my old school to much

Either run a sealed airbox, which legally you need to do anyway, or use an aftermarket ECU

These have been sourced from the Factory Body Supplement Book from April 1968 production. Each of these pages have been scanned in at A3 size, so ideally print in A3. When looking at the dash cluster pages, the S suffix refers to the tacho dash KE1x loom 1.pdf KE1x loom 2.pdf KE1x Harness.pdf KE1x dash cluster.pdf

Sorry double post

I have scanned up the diagrams, will post at home tonight

No way, the shagpile HAS to go back in after you hit it with a high pressure washer, although it will probably disintegrate. And make sure you change the bit of fuel line from the fuel pump!

I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to rig up a circuit open relay like on mid 80's onwards EFI Toyota's. Plenty of relays at Pinch a part.

But if you decided on a 4A solution, you would bung in a carbed 4AGE wouldn't you? Much simpler than putting an injected one in

I'll have a look in the factory manuals though note that they were published in 1967 I think. I know the fusebox's changed over time so presumably the looms at least to some minor degree? I have the factory supplements and so on, so if it exists I should have it. Can easily scan and post up.

Another Crown!

You slept on it for a week! Any chance you could send me a closeup photo of the AMI body plate in the engine bay?

With twins, mine used to sound like a (hot) motorbike!

I'm also a T motor fan. You can get them putting out good power. Try and resist the temptation to go too silly on the cam overlap, and it will remain a very streetable daily. I ran a 169 Wade cam in mine with a shaved head, mild port/polish, extractors. Motor including bottom end was otherwise stock and untouched. At various times I ran a downdraught weber, or twin Weber DCOEs depending on whether I was working or not. It went like a cut cat and performed faultlessly at every sprint, autocross, motorkhana and daily drive to work. If you internally clean up the stock headers and run a downdraught weber, no one will even notice you have modified it.

Make sure it is low pressure only, 4 psi max. Think about how you wire it so it turns off if the engine stops without having to turn the key off, bearing in mind you should locate it in the boot near the tank. Rubber mount it. I had a facet pump years ago and even rubber mounted it was pretty noisy. Remember you will need a fuel pump blanking plate. When you find one, tell me where as I need one too.

Great news!

Not really relevant, but doesn't appear to be a genuine levin. Did you see those works car photo's in this thread? Complete with 151E's http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58880-toyota-team-europe/page__pid__590847#entry590847 Incredible.

Wow, I would almost (but not quite) sign up to facebook for those TE27 photos. Work printer will be running hot on Monday

Agreed, assuming it is genuine, and someone is interested, it's quite reasonable. I know someone over there who may well be interested and has the resources to restore it. Will be interesting to see what happens to it.