parrot

Did they make you wear a bee suit?

LOL at all the dust on the floor to help it break traction.

Yes, if it has a Landcruiser engine in it

Hey Jimi I believe they are the same as for a 2T Condensor GD209 Points GD207 Edit, have you seen the thread on toymods that shows how to easily convert it to electronic? http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/25842-%5Bguide%5D-2t-3t-c-18r-c-electronic-dizzys-how.html I would imagine it will also apply to a 2TG

Official Japanese website here and translated (to Japlish) Check out the RC! "When the ornament is installed, please install the Toyota genuine supplies. Please ask details to the store."

So, for the first time in a (very) long time, it runs! Installing the distributor was slightly confusing, as with the wade blanks, the cam dowels are basically opposite where they are meant to be on a factory cam. But trusted in the old finger down the spark plug hole, and it was correct. So now for some tuning and adjustment of accelerator cables and so on, drop it on it's wheels, and get it out of the shed to install the drivers door straps. Can't open the door far enough at the moment. Some small sorting of the electric mirror loom, as the mirror loom to body loom plugs are different. The fuel pump was fine. With the adapted loom I had previously, the fuel pump would come on with the key prior to cranking, whereas with the factory body looms, it doesn't actually power up until cranking commences. Some painting as above, clean up the Intra alloys, get some tyres fitted, and send my club reg forms into silverra23!

Exactly right, hence my quoting your post. And as others said, the head is only the start. I don't suppose this source is Philip Colina aka pfncolina / dhee / dhee77 / Budi / etc. based in Manila?

We know already. No one was having a go at you, in fact it was one of the more intellectual discussions I have seen on here. Time to move on Edit: If nothing else, it sent me out to the shed for an hour or so.

There is NO F#$%^&G WAY, you would ever get 100 people to put their money up for this. I'd love to have one, but seriously, you're dreaming.

Hold out for a manual AE71. Eventually you will want to convert it.

When I was looking at eliminating the aircon in my AE86, i spent a lot of time looking under dashes for the duct that replaces the condensor box. All 80's RWD Toyotas looked basically the same. To be safe, I reckon I would get one out of an AE71 for heater core outlet direction, as it is an A series engine You may find subtle differences in flap activation and so on, but I very much doubt it. If it does fit, make sure you post up here in this thread with the answer.

Have had the occasional opportunity to work on the AE86 over the school hols. Finishing various little things, greasing balljoints, fitting some TRD engine mounts, checking that things are tight, cleaned and installed a GT fuel tank and so on. Have also picked up a nice big compressor so going to have a go at spraying my sunroof panel which had some light scratches, and a guard. Have been trying to remove the side protection strips with only moderate success. Has proved impossible to remove all the glue despite heatguns, acetone and so on. It is looking like I may have to hit them with some wet and dry or a light scourer, then possibly a light spray. Could end up OK or ordinary, but we shall see. Will probably end up spraying the other guard too. Worse thing about the compressor has been trying to find a replacement air filter. This has proved insurmountable, so am going to construct something. Best of all, I have connected a battery and it hasn't caught fire. And everything works except strangely the drivers side parker which will require a bit more investigation. The behind grille foglights look great! Also the fuel pump isn't getting any power on the key, but fuel does circulate if I bridge the fuel pump check connector, so some digging to do there before firing it up. I recall having to run a wire somewhere or other into the junction box

I can tell you that a TE27 T series diff bare housing face to face is 1225mm The axle from the bearing flange to the outside of the hub face is 58mm Thus 1341mm hub face to hub face.

Wow! Everytime I saw your name pop up in the users online, I would think of that effort on the door skin, and wonder what had become of your car. Well now we know!

According to the owner manual, KE1x final drive was 4.222 in the sedans and presumably coupe, and 4.444 in a wagon. No mention of any variation for an auto. KE2x was the same, with additional info that the 4.444 was optional in a sedan. A later owner manual notes that the 4.444 was found in Toyoglide sedans & coupes. There was a 4.1 in the 1400cc which presumably you won't find here.

I had a very similiar experience in my AE86. It would start and run perfectly, and then cut out randomly. Could be sitting in traffic, driving along, whatever. Or you would drive somewhere and park, then on return the car would not start. Come back next morning, and it would start as if nothing had happened. ECU would throw up no codes, changed fuel filter and random sensors, ignitors and ECU's etc which I fortunately had spares for, so minimal expense. Problem remained unchanged. Had our first child, and after a few unpleasant experiences, car was parked up in the shed and left and a new car purchased. Eventually (a few years later) I decided to look into it. Only after methodically working my way through the Toyota 4AGE Engine diagnosis manual did I eventually discover the cause. When I did the conversion, I spliced a RWD engine loom into the factory 4AC loom. It ran perfectly for over 10 years until this problem. Converting the loom required introducing an injector circuit including an EFI relay. The factory sited this in the junction box at the driver footwell, and the 4AC junction box is identical just without the relay and wires. After running the wires, soldering everything up and installing the relay, I realised the lump of solder was preventing the terminal from fitting within the plug. Simple solution, cut out the little clip that retains the terminal within the plastic plug. 10 years later, the wire loosened off sufficiently, without the clip to keep it located, that it was making intermittent contact with the relay. No contact, no injector circuit. I learned some very valuable lessons. Do it right first time, and don't be quick to blame sensors and ECU's which rarely fail without human intervention. In an ECU controlled car, the wiring is everything.

Welcome Tero It looks to be in fantastic condition! Funny how KE15/17's just seem to pop up where you least expect. What are your plans for the car? You may have to do a meet with Tojo in Norway!

Was in bed last night flicking through a copy of Modern Motor from September 1967. In the what's new column, they detailed the "Endeavour Equipment Control Rod" for vehicles with a live axle suspended by semi-elliptic springs. It was a very simple set up, that these days would be very easy to replicate. In 1967 it cost $15. Essentially it is a trailing link on the drivers side, that is located between the U bolt bracket and the front spring mount following the line of the spring. The trailing link was situated underneath the spring. It required drilling a hole in the front spring mount to locate it. Then there is a panhard rod that is mounted diagonally from the same front spring mount across to the U bolt bracket on the passenger side. It was claimed that this did not interfere with manufacturer geometry, and provided all the advantages of greatly improved axle location. Unfortunately I can't scan things this week, but wondered what people think? Clearly it isn't a race set up or anything, but may be a simple modification for road cars. There is still a company called Endeavour Equipment in Melbourne, but these days they make assorted healthcare equipment..........

Nup. X member is 5 mins, and the driveshafts would have to be disconnected either way. Why create lots of extra unnecessary work.

I taught my eventual brother in law to drive, in my eventual wife's KE20. That needed a clutch change at the end of it, but was way easier! He pays someone to drive him around now......

Gearbox comes out by itself. Not hard, but a bit of a pig to get back in as the weight of the differential is canted off to one side when lifting it back in.

That's OK, we get lots of half cuts from them. I reckon we're ahead. Hmm AE86 or Cressida.......

I've often wondered myself. Looking in the factory manuals, there is no indication that they can be dismantled and reassembled. The inner section is inserted all the way up the outer section to the level where the outer section starts to narrow. I'd suggest the inner section is vulcanised in, and removing it will destroy the outer.

Well it won't hurt, but for the cost of an adapter plate, you could buy something you can jet to suit. It will run, but not as good as it could. If you going to make the effort, do it logically. there is a lot more to a carburettor than just air.

Well if it's an amoral gift bucket, I'm coming over to watch your car get washed! If it's an armor all gift bucket, very nice, but I'm not coming. :laff: