parrot

It's never that simple. There are always differences. I haven't done that swap, but if I were you, I would be replacing the existing motor with another exactly the same.

I have posted elsewhere on Rollaclub, a scan of an article from Wheels in the late 60's where they purchased an ex Bathurst KE10 that AMI had sitting in the back of the warehouse for a long term test car/office hack. In those days, import quotas meant there was a wait list if you went into your dealer, and this was all AMI had that was available at short notice. Whilst they loved the car, and commented on its apparent zippiness, they also noted the difficulties they had stopping it from pinging. They tried servicing at a couple of dealers in an effort to cure it. Now why would an almost new 'standard' production car have such problems with pre ignition.........Hmmm

The running gear will largely bolt in though you will need to modify the TA22 crossmember, or your KE30 crossmember. You will need to modify your pedal box to swap to hydraulic clutch actuation. TA22 pedal box doesn't bolt in. I would think you would need to shorten the tailshaft but check threads as above. At very least you would want to retain the yokes. Very early TA22's had leaf spring rears, but I suspect an ST would have a coil spring rear. In this case you will need to weld in the locating plates etc. The leaf springs locate the axle rather than trailing arms. Coilovers are all well and good on the rear, but remember you are fitting them into a turret designed only to take a damper, without any of the load that a coilover will place on the turret.

No 4AGE's! You need to have a look on the build plate and double check the engine number Eberbs, Nova's were a crappy badge engineered version.

Have a look around the rides thread, and also a search in the tech sections. There are a few KE3x's with 2TG's which are the same conversion essentially. People on here from Australia are likely to tell you to put a 5k or 7K in it, but I suspect they are not available in the UK. I had a reasonably hot 2T with twin 40 DCOE's in a TA22 and it went like a cut cat! Edit: You will need the celica back axle, but it is probably coil sprung rather than leaf sprung, which will require some modification. Look on 3TCgarage.com also. They are big on modifying this engine in the US whereas most people in Australia go with 2TG's or 3TG hybrids. The US got your chassis with T engines as standard, so a good source of spare parts such as crossmembers, tailshafts etc cheaply.

You're not wrong there. The general quality of the thai rubbers has been covered a thousand times in very general terms. Tendency to split and so on. But there is more to it than that. This boot seal has been an interesting case in point. I bought a "Toyota General Parts" seal off Gira7777 for the KE15. It arrived in a bag with KE10, KE20 etc written on it. At the same time, I managed to locate a genuine KE25 seal elsewhere and bought that for my KE25. The difference when compared side to side is stark. The thai version is cut from a roll so you need to join it. I expected that. The real problem with it, is that whilst the cross sectional shape approximates that of the genuine seal, the genuine seal is far more complex. The genuine seal includes a recess enabling it to be fitted to the flange around the boot thus locating it. It also includes a molded pillow, in other words an air filled cushion which compresses when the boot lid closes on it. Finally it incorporates a pliable lip further improving its sealing ability. The aftermarket seal has none of these things and is essentially a lump of extruded rubber that roughly approximates the general shape of the genuine seal. Basically it is unusable. At some point I will compare some door seals as I have these in both genuine and aftermarket also. But the problem as always remains, genuine seals are very difficult to source. Whether the Scott's etc items are any better I cannot say with respect to complexity of manufacture. Below is the aftermarket item followed by the genuine (in detail showing the locating slit only rather than cross section)

I just got a Thai boot seal for the KE15 along with all the others. The boot seal supplied is also the same as supplied for KE2x series, and is absolute rubbish. i.e nothing like the original seal and has no capacity to be pressed into the recess on the boot lip. It looks like you are expected to just glue it on somehow. Absolute waste of time. I also this week got a genuine boot seal for the KE25, and there is no comparison between the two. That said, the rest of the seals look OK Edit: I would be interested to know what the Australian supplied boot seals are like.

Yes, mine only needs about 4 turns on the reduction starter and away she goe. Edit, Where I said ON probably should read IGN. I certainly don't mean the ACC Edit, edit: Had a look last night and it actually does say ON, not IGN!

I mean when the charge light comes on, but before cranking. Mine is wired with factory looms, circuit open relay etc.. My 2001 EFI Renault does the same thing. Edit, if your car has factory wiring, you can short the fuel pump plug next to the check engine diagnostic plug and that turns causes the fuel pump to operate too.

Presumably you are using an AE86 intank pump and bracket? Do you have a return line plumbed from the fuel rail back to the tank? When you turn the ignition switch to ON (i.e. not start), the fuel pump should receive power and start pumping fuel to the rail, when pressure at the rail is reached, the fuel pressure regulator bleeds off the excess pressure by returning fuel to the tank. Sitting in the car with the ignition switch at ON, you should be able to hear the pump running and the fuel circulating. Can you hear this? Most problems are because people haven't wired the pump power actuation properly, or haven't fitted a return line. If the latter, you will be filling the sump with fuel when cranking. How was your fuel setup done originally?

Great stuff. You have inspired me to go out to the shed with my Mig......tomorrow night. Too cold now.

It's always worse than you think. I hit a couple of tiny holes on my AE86 recently with a wire cup brush, and they grew. Not too bad, but on an otherwise immaculate shell.... Anyway, I finally went out and bought some gas for the Mig.

Use the search button, been discussed eleventy billion times.

I'm out unfortunately. It's "tackers day" from 9am at Bulleen Park. I suggest you give Bulleen Rd a wide berth if your heading out there!

Not really. The gasket kits are hard to find and you need to make sure you get the right ones. And expensive when you do. The throttle spindles are often twisted and possibly the pivot points worn, which dramatically affects their function and ability to balance them properly. The ram tubes wouldn't be cheap either. And he will jet and choke them appropriately so they are pretty close pre dyno. Honestly, for such a crucial factor in performance and engine longevity, I reckon it is money well spent. I'm all for doing things myself, but this is one thing I will hand over to an expert.

Flares! As if the wheel wells weren't big enough already.

Last Online: Jun 04 2009 05:17 PMHopefully he has subscribed to his own post, and will come back with an update.

Have a look at Rodger's site linked above, and you will be able to positively identify them. I won't muck around with mine. I will just send mine to Rodger

It's hard to say. Depends on condition and what someone is prepared to ask, and whether you want to negotiate or not. Some people are a bit more mercenary than others. I just don't sell anything because I know if I do, one day I will need it!

Nothing is hard to get, if you are prepared to look around and don't want it by tomorrow

What would I know, I have a thing for old Citroen's

no

You do know, if it's a Holden or Australian Ford, you will have to revoke your rollaclub membership..... Chrysler's are OK

Yes, I thought that too!

That looks pretty damn effective and I suspect puts out good heat If I was you, I would wait till after winter to swap the new one in!