parrot

So tonight got the starter motor back in, which is an incredibly easy job with the AE92 0.8kw reduction starters. They are so much smaller and fit easily up past the exhaust. Shot at 2008-10-05 Last of the stainless brakelines are in. Cat con back in. Then spent half the night looking for the little tab that keeps the speedo drive in situ. Once I found that, spent another 30 mins looking for some gear oil to lubricate everything and stick it back in. I actually even had a little doze under the car for a while. I have those high density foam jigsaw mats from Bunnings covering most of the floor around and under the car. Much nicer rolling in and out from under the car, and extremely comfortable! I think that is now basically it for under the car. Everything is back on and tightened. In the next couple of days I will put they wheels back on, and lower the four corners onto some wheel ramps and tighten up the various poly suspension bushes. Bleed the brakes and clutch, change the gearbox and diff oil. I do have one little problem. The car has been in the shed so long, and I have stored so many other parts in the shed, that with all the weight, I think the shed has settled a little which means I can't actually open the doors! Will deal with that eventually. Shot at 2011-02-10 Yes, it has been in there a while............

Tell me about it.....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Wheels-Magazine-Hot-Up-Guide-Number-4-/130480865900?pt=AU_Magazines&hash=item1e6144026c I'll put this here since it is related. Same car, different publication. I already have a copy, but someone may be interested. I wondered if it was Mrs Bamboo, finally cracking after handing one wrong tool too many.

So school holidays are over, kids are back at school, and life sort of returns to normal. Finally got around to fixing up my front struts. Did get some SW20 AGX's from the US at a great price. Then ordered some strut spacers from T3. These put the strut insert at the bottom of the strut with the spacing at the top, with a built in gland nut. Then I waited. And waited. Gabe was out of stock so I had to wait for a new batch. Finally, two and a half months later they arrived. But they are a great idea and fit perfect. Was debating whether I could be bothered painting the strut tubes. Was glad I did as they did come up quite well. The result? Captive springs! Front springs are 235mm and 6kg, so am very interested to see how low it is when it goes on the ground. On putting the struts back in and torquing everything up, suddenly feared I hadn't put a split pin in the balljoint. Visions of wheel parting company from suspension. So pulled them out again. Yes split pins were there. Getting so little time to work on the car means I forget what I have and haven't done. Best pickup has been a huge whiteboard I found in a skip which I note things down on. By null at 2011-02-06 Next got around to uninstalling my brand new rubber brakelines, and installing my shiny stainless Goodridge lines....... Bit sick of getting covered in brake fluid, but they do look the business. Just trying to work out how to retain the front lines as the retainer is a bit different, but think I know how to get around it. Picked these up cheaply on special in the UK, after a debacle with some black diamond lines I had bought from Fensport in the UK a few years back. NEVER buy anything black diamond or Fensport!! By null at 2011-02-06 What else? Installed the distributor, replaced one of the dizzy cap boots on the TRD leads which had a hole in the top. That isn't easy but it looked shithouse before. Bought these second hand and when they arrived they were in terrible condition. I have actually rebuilt them! Insulator tubes were cracked, replaced contacts on ends of the line etc etc. Not what I would generally recommend, but I did have them and they do look sensational. If they fail, will just put my old magnacor leads back on. Probably better, but boring black! Now to reinstall the reduction drive starter, find some gaskets for the catcon I tossed up replacing with a straight through pipe, and honestly I think things are very close. Soon to put the car on its wheels and tighten up the various bushings. Picked up some GTV front door cards to match the rears I got a while back so will get them on. Have to have a look at the door mechanism on the drivers door which I replaced with a better one. Outer handle isn't opening the door whereas inner handle does. Will be something simple. Also picked up some new old stock bumper indicator lenses which are very shiny! The car has been sitting in the shed for nearly nine years so is covered in about one inch of dust, and has aquired a few bumps and scratches, but will get it out so I have something to drive on events with club reg, and move the KE15 in. With the other cars, continue to locate parts. An LSD CWP for the TE27 build which will go in a shortened RA28 housing. Best of all I got some new old stock tail lights for the KE15. Was watching ebay whilst in the UK in November and spotted two pairs of new tail lights listed in such a way I thought no one would spot them. Just in case, asked the guy if he would do a buy it now, no go. Oh well, hopefully no one will see them. Wrong. They went for rather a lot and I was the underbidder. Damn. What I did next was watch the sellers feedback to find out who bought them, which turned out to be a guy in the US. Sure enough, he listed the second set on US ebay and I got them uncontested. Very happy.

Yes it does. Small enough to go straight through, although if you take the circlip off a standard line, it will too. I was thinking I might need to put a mega circlip on the middle of the three steps. For example, directly underneath where the circlip is on the photo of the two lines together. Then the narrowest groove would be in about the right position to put a spring clip on the other side of the retainer plate.

Thanks guys, but that's not it. That trick I know very well. This photo should explain it better Shot at 2011-02-06 As you can see there is no separate groove for the circlip to stop the retainer from moving past the plate. The single groove in the goodridge line is wider than the factory grooves. If I take a circlip off a factory line and put it on the goodridge retainer Shot at 2011-02-06 There is no width at all left to slide a spring clip in.

http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=ke10+pitman&_sacat=See-All-Categories Mine arrived within a week.

So fitting my stainless lines on my AE86. How do you secure the brake line to the strut retainer plate? It is different to the factory style. I'm sure I am missing something obvious. Shot at 2011-02-06 And don't say cableties...... You can see the standard style retainer plate here Shot at 2011-02-06

No worries. If you are buying AGX's, look at US ebay. Vastly cheaper. I'll post some pics of my struts in my build thread by tomorrow. But they just look like struts surprisingly. I will be interested to see how low they sit with 235mm springs

Looks like this. Shot at 2011-02-06 With gland nut on top Shot at 2011-02-06 And before some smarty notices, yes that is the MR2 gland nut but it sits the same as the AE86 one (I checked). Realised after I took the photo and couldn't be fagged taking another.

So are there any child restraint points in the back of a Crown :P

The OD of the body of a strut insert in an AE86 is 43.5mm The ID of a stock gland nut is 40.5mm. Also the case with an SW20 MR2 If you are using skyline dampers, presumably that is where your problem lies. The design at the top of the strut insert is too wide. The gland nuts supplied are correct, your skyline inserts are not. I imagine the best bet if you insist on using these inserts, is to have the ID machined out to suit, which means the wall is getting a tad thin. I would buy appropriate inserts. I also have some SW20 MR2 gland nuts that have no ID, other than the hole for the piston, if you know what I mean. These came off a GAB strut. So there are variations.

Have you got the right thread? MR2 and AE86 have different threads. Fine vs coarse. The OD of the threaded section on both is 47.5mm. The piston diameter can vary between various makes of strut. If the piston is too large a diameter, I can't see why you couldn't drill out the hole for the piston.

Woops, double post

US ebay. Usually a couple of sellers. Check the postage carefully. europarts4auction are very good

???!

No. I basically gave my head and the instruction page to my engine guy and said, "can you do this please".

I had mine prepared as per the TRD manual, i.e. no polishing of the joggles. Valve springs etc unchanged. Not sure exactly what the lift is, but certainly no more than 8 If you have a look in the TRD Bible, it is reprinted there. Let me know if you don't have it and I will scan and email it to you. The torque is an issue with a daily driver. With my setup, it is still totally driveable thanks no doubt to factory MAPS, but as I said, there is two seconds of craziness, sort of like a VTEC, then you are changing up and starting again. A mate has 256/264's in his, and the power delivery is more usable.

My 2 cents. I think it depends on what you are going to use it for. I have a 7 rib bigport in mine with stock bottom end, flowed head, 268 degree in/ex cams running a Jap factory ECU, and raised fuel pressure. Standard gearbox ratios and a 4.3 rear. The result of all that when you step on the accelerator, is a lot of frantic action, induction roar, and before you know it you have hit the rev limiter. So in a nutshell, has moved the useable power higher and into a fairly narrow band for the street. 270 - 272 degrees duration is about the maximum you can run on a stock ecu. This is with stock 182cc injectors. My presumption is that this is probably running a bit lean, so plan putting some slightly larger injectors in it along with a F-Con fuel computer to try and tune it a little. Of course that leaves me with the factory ignition maps. When that is done, I shall get it dynoed (before and after) Is it worth going aftermarket to run bigger cams? I'm not really sure about that. Lots of money, need to find a good tuner who can work with your management system, and may well be limiting its road driveability. Plus you can run into issues with the law. I reckon I would go 256/264 duration with a stock ECU for a street/occasional track car. You already have 250cc injectors in the smallport, but would also be limited by the ignition map. If it is just a track car, and set up to utilise a narrow powerband, then I think it is fine. Personally, for a road car I wouldn't go down that route.

So went looking on AE86DC for the aforementioned sub forum. Just so I could see how low the forum has descended of course.... Couldn't find it. BUT, did see someone had nominated themselves as a moderator a while back :rolls: (looks up two posts). Mind you, so did half the rest of the members. That said, I do agree you would have been the only good choice! Thought about it myself years ago, then thought better of it. I am putting my new struts in tonight. Going from functional height King springs in a conventional strut arrangement, to 235mm free height springs with SW20 inserts and T3 strut inserts also in a conventional strut arrangement. Hopefully not too low..... Spent half this afternoon trying to find some M14 nylock nuts as the KYB nuts supplied were too tall.

I gather from a post on another site, it was pretty much a shell already.

No they are not the same

He he. Join the club

Excellent. How the hell did they think they would ever get away with selling it to them? As if it wouldn't be seen. Assuming of course it wasn't stolen to order.... Seriously some people are complete dumb f@$ks. Do make sure you keep us updated on development.

Have been thinking about how to find one of these for a while. I know of someone who went to considerable trouble to have one made, and also of another person currently having screens made for their RT51. Apparently the guy to speak to is Ralph Moore at Autoglass in NSW which I have done this morning. He tells me KE15/17 screens haven't been available for 3 years so I am looking at a few possibilities to get them made. Obviously it gets down to economies of scale, so costs are up in the air. He has suggested figures of $300-$500 depending on what is required to have them made, and how many they may sell. The main cost being in tooling up. These days they are manufactured in Vietnam. At this stage I am putting this out there on the off chance anyone may have some useful information or insights in this area. Potentially at some stage we may need to look for a used screen for a pattern. My current screen is OK, albeit toughened glass, and still in the car. Somewhat selfishly, I wouldn't wish to provide it for a pattern. So I suppose, if anyone has a poor condition spare they may be willing to provide if required, would be interested to hear of that too. It isn't clear to me what would happen to that screen, but should it become necessary, I will get more info on that. i presume it gets sent to Vietnam. I am hopeful of getting sufficient info from another source that may render this unneccesary, but shall have to wait and see.