parrot

Search around, it's on here somewhere. Just swapping a few wires and adding a tacho feed.

That's about right. Although the broken tab at the top makes it less desirable and the condition doesn't look amazing, although that could be the photo. Pretty common for them to snap there. Good bargaining chip, especially if you buy both. There is some small fiddling reconfiguring your wiring, covered elsewhere on rollaclub from memory

Hard to tell but it looks like the tripmeter knob is a little damaged. No biggy. Try to get a look at the rear of it and make sure their is no obvious damage to the circuits etc. But probably good buying at that price, assuming it works.

This is a TE27 dash cluster. They routinely sell for about $450 if in good condition.

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k139105039&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img181.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/3/9/3/tomo441229-thumb-1299230635329833.jpg&title=TE27%20A1

Sounds like the carbs need some serious balancing

Yes, keep the diff, assuming it is a T series. If it has coil springs in the rear it will be a T. Keep the tailshaft as you will want the front and rear yokes. You may get away without having to narrow the diff as the TA22 T series is only marginally wider than a TE27 T series, as long as you don't go too wide or silly with offset.. You will however need to remove the spring seats and have leaf spring mounts added, so keep your KE25 diff and cut the spring seats off that. If you leave the panhard rod mount on the diff, you could try welding a mount to the chassis so you can add a panhard rod! Obvious advantage is that you can bolt in a LSD from an AE86 which are readily available. And there are various diff ratios available. I believe TE27's used a 4.3 which most T series AE86's ran standard so your tacho dash speedo will read properly! Just make sure you get an earlier Zenki centre, as the axle sizes got bigger in the later kouki diffs. I have a TE27 tailshaft here, plus a TE27 axle housing on the way, so if you need specific measurements, happy to take these for you. If you get real excited, there are rear disc conversions via Toymods that don't look too hard.

Be a bit wary about doing too much with the steering box. There are a few seals and so on in there, you will really struggle to source. Concentrate on your bushings, tierods etc first

It's highly likely the vacuum advance mechanism would be removed for anything 'non standard'

Just get the dizzy recurved at an ignition specialist. Take all the guess work out of it. Your dizzy needs to be tuned to suit the other characteristics of your engine. You have seen what using a dizzy tuned for a van is doing to your performance. Think how good it will be if you get it recurved properly. http://www.performanceignition.com.au/order-and-delivery

I also agree with you that adding camber for looks is stupid. That, in combination with bump steer induced by your making the front "very low" will likely end up with you wrapped around a power pole

Hmm, yes none of that ever got mentioned in the rather vague description when it was up for sale. ' Really looking forward to watching your progress with this one. Good luck with your inspection!

If it is the one that was kicking around, I could never understand why the guy didn't just do the work it required. Will be a great car, and how many of these do you see here?

Agree with both of you. Problem in a KE20 however, is the minimal amount of room within the strut tower which means you can barely move the strut inwards before it hits the body. Camber tops really require a coilover setup, and if you go to that trouble, may as well swap over to AE86 struts.

I had a look at one I have here out of the car. No drain plug. There is no facility to drain the oil with the steering column in the car. Also checked the factory manual. Possibly you could take out the adjustment cam and get inventive with a syringe and some plastic tube, but would be hard to aspirate it with that grade of oil.

Looks like a great deal, but only if you want to do it.

Sorry to take your thread off topic there a bit. I agree with all of the above. It's your car, do it the way you like it. My thing is to "improve" my cars with period mods only. No dumping, stretched tyres, coilovers and so on for me. But that's me. Hell you could go with the oil cooler on the front of your car with the fake oil lines if you want. I might shake my head, but who cares. If you like it, that's all that matters.

http://www.theage.co...00406-rpeu.html Strange but true. Even stranger, is the fact that the guy lay on top of the wombat to stop it attacking him.............. Not sure what the hell was going on there. And if anyone on here knows the guy, .......... well I don't really know what to say. No, you got there first, don't want to start off some sig rage :laff:

You bastard! I was too slow. But I do love my wombat

Agreed! Might need to update my sig.

Advertise them on AE86DC and you can retire on the Takumi tax. They were also standard fitment on the AE86 Black Limited edition.

RT142 Corona Avante wheels

Yes, there are various badges for various markets. The master part catalog shows where they all go, but only with a general picture, no specific measurements or anything.

Welcome to the elite club! None of thatmodern tat here. That looks like surface rust after someone has played with it. Hopefully the bottoms of the doors and the rear guard pockets look OK? Bit of work, lick of paint and it'll be perfect!