parrot

What Tally said. Make sure if you decide to go the AE86 steering arm route with a spacer to fill out the balljoint pin hole, that you source power steering arms rather than non power arms (non pwr steer arms are significantly longer than KE / TE 2x). I think the bling TTT arms are power steer length.

Really it all depends on what you want to do to it and how long you intend to keep it. There are a lot of bitsa cars out there that have had very average conversions done. And I don't know how many cars I have seen over the years get converted to something other than a 4AC, and subsequently crashed and parted out, or sold on as projects cause they don't run right, or turned into wannabee drift cars and sold on because they are a pig as a daily driver. Don't just follow everyone else, modify it sensibly to suit it's main purpose. If it is a daily driver, you don't need coilovers, stupid wheel widths, etc. I bought my ADM car back in the early 90's and initially built it as a daily driver with a conversion to 16 valve with a factory engine loom adapted into the existing loom. Since then I have made it essentially factory, right down to the little bracket that secures the factory fuel line to the rear of the chassis. The only parts still on the car from when I bought it are the passenger door and front guard, front and rear bumpers, crossmembers,,rack, interior plastics, dash pad, back seat and carpet. Every single other part has been changed for a factory GT part or a modified component. And there are a surprising number of parts that you can spend a lot of money on...... No, you don't need do the same as me, but don't be under any illusions, whichever way you go, it is substantially more complicated and expensive than you think. You won't convert it in a weekend, unless you obtain a complete front cut from somewhere, and swap every single part over, plus plan in advance to set up a fuel system. I will never sell my car as I know every single nut and bolt in it, sometimes multiple times. It is a hell of a lot of fun to drive, and totally reliable. But only because it has been done sensibly. Edit: There is absolutely no question that you will need to get the car engineered in order for it to be a legal conversion with regards to your state transport authority and crucially insurance. Don't be tempted to dodge it with the old engine change rubbish. You crash it and you are potentially screwed financially for a long time.

If anyone is at Centre Road and remembers, can they let me know if they notice a navy blue Renault Scenic? I need a couple of bits. There was one over in the Euro section a while back.

Always great to see another KE15 on the forum!

Ah yes, sorry I forgot about that. I'm on the other side of the fence, so see people stuck in hospital all the time. I reckon if it ever happens to me, I would be in there with all my manuals and books, planning my builds! And make sure I had a wireless internet connection!

I am so going there! Seriously Jaygore, you should buy a manual and have a go at fitting this stuff yourself, you will save a fortune, and it isn't hard.

See's for sale thread, thinks WTF? Go's straight to build thread, thinks ah ha! Suspecting individual throat induction roar??

See how many people have checked his profile........ Be afraid, be very afraid :no2:

A 20 valve conversion is far more complicated than a 2TG and will cost buckets of money, especially as I gather you will be paying someone else to do it. Have a good look at what others have done first, before you get to carried away!

Well that's me screwed! Oh well, just need to go back to basic principles and get the trusty multimeter out.

Also I recently picked up a quantity of KE1x axle flange gaskets, which always disintegrate. If anyone wants a photocopy of one to cut their own, let me know. Actually, i have a K water pump with a new gasket too, and Ke20 k40 gearbox set and so on. Maybe we could have a thread with photocopies of gaskets and so on in the FAQ's?

I bit the bullet and bought a roll of gasket paper. Fiddly depending on what you need to make, but gets you there eventually, as long as you keep your fingers away from the razor blade!

I've got a k40 front half tailshaft out of a KE70 in the shed you can have for the yoke if it will fit. No idea if it will. It's tucked away behind a 2TG so if interested, let me know and I'll pull it out and count the splines.

I love those wreckers where you have to walk across oil soaked ground to get to the counter!

OK, confusion reigns. For my post above, I looked at the body supplement manual which has a photo of a fusebox. HOWEVER, the layout of fuses in that, is different to that set out in the later body group manual which includes Sept 1969 production. From the top in the later manual, which is a Corolla 1100/1200 manual. Main R 10A Main L 10A Dim R 10A Dim L 10A Tail 10A Horn 10A Lighter 20A Heater 5A Wiper 15A Turn 15A From the top in the earlier manual, which is a Corolla 1100 manual (from April 1968 production) Main R 10A Main L 10A Dim R 10A Dim L 10A Tail 10A Park 10A Horn 20A Gauge 5A Wiper 15A Turn 15A So presumably yours is a later fuse block. The owners manual has no reference to the fuse block that I can see.

I would never buy anything there unless I saw exactly what I was getting, and loaded it there and then into my car / trailer, without turning my back. If not there, you could get anything sent to you. Once you pay over the money, the promised extra bits they are "getting in next week" are impossible to drag out of them. And yes I have personal experience.

Absolutely! Anything TEQ is cool in my opinion, and they have scrubbed up real well. I get excited by things like that too, but don't tell anyone.

Toyospares are the masters of dodge in my opinion.

6 from the top in a 10 fuse block is the park fuse going by the manual, though my cover is missing so cannot double check I am looking at it the right way up.

I have been wondering about this too and been waiting for someone to answer. Since no one did, I consulted the factory body book! There are small steel clips at intervals along the gutter that act to retain the chrome trim. According to the manual, you look at where these clips are (most likely the spots where you have noticed the rust) place your thumb under the chrome trim at that point and your finger on the top of the chrome trim then twist the trim with your thumb going outward away from the car and your finger going inward toward the roof. This releases the clip from the underside of the roof gutter and the trim should come away. If it was me, I would give the clips a liberal soaking in WD40 or some sort of penetrating oil beforehand to assist in them releasing.

No, because that is for a LHD car

You are right about the swaybar, you just need to change to the appropriate swaybar, which isn't a KE20 one. If you use an early T50, there is no need to widen the transmission tunnel, couldn't say for the later T50 presumably fitted to your injected 3TGEU. If benhachi is fitting an earlier 2T, it is likely he is using the earlier T50 fitted to a TA22. With respect to the master cylinder, you are also right. Ideally you source the correct master cylinder which in a RHD configuration, needs to be very close against the strut tower. Some TE27's in RHD came with a brake booster, and some came unassisted. Again, it is a matter of sourcing the correct parts to ensure everything fits in. I sourced a TE27 pedal box, engine crossmember and manual trans crossmember to ensure everything fits as it should There is no need to cut the firewall at all. The hard part if not sourcing original parts is making sure you fabricate your engine mounts precisely to ensure you have adequate room, primarily for the clutch and brake masters.

There is also info on here, you just need to use the search function. Most "KE2x's" (or in other words TE21's and TE27's) sold in the US had 2T's in them from factory, and of course Japanese TE27's had 2TG's. It is simply a matter of modifying crossmembers and the engine will bolt in. No firewall modifying required. Perhaps the post above referred to a 4AGE? Of course there are numerous other issues to sort such as clutch actuation and so on, but it isn't hard, and a good modification for the car.

These are the ones I was thinking of http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIAT-500-126-CHROME-BULLET-SIDE-VIEW-MIRROR-/200432797281?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eaab9c661 Plus there are plenty of listings selling this style http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item5641349754 You can also get the second style in a clip on http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3cb2dd8038 If you go to places like Scott's, Bill Thompson Auto Rubbers, rare spares etc, I suspect they will stock something like the last two.