parrot

He's a sponsor over on Toymods http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/forumdisplay.php?41-Otomoto

Wife and son gone to football so I'm home with my little girl :glare:

I reckon if you hit it with the buff, it will come up real nice!

Christ Sloth, you were lucky to walk away from that one. I really feel for you. What can you do but put it down to experience, salvage what parts you can for the red rocket, and enjoy the revelation of driving a modern car!

Not familiar with K boxes, but the speedo gear is usually in the extension housing? If so, that would not be a reliable indicator for an empty gearbox

Yes, the weight in the box is offset to the angle it needs to go back in and it is damn hard to balance. From memory, all the weight is in the differential part. Make sure your clutch is centred properly cause it is bloody hard work trying to get it back in. The offset weight makes it pretty precarious if trying to get it up there with a trolley jack. I eventually gave up and did the old bench press routine. I had a JDM front cut I transplanted in when I did the AE82, and I can't recall the details, but there were differences between the halfshafts between the 4AGE JDM and 4AC ADM. I can't recall what it was or how I got around it, but there was a bit of confusion there for a bit. But anyway, you just need to pull the joint firmly directly outward from the inner cups to break the vacuum seal due to the grease. Repack well with the correct grade of grease and away you go. Edit: Also unbolt the front hubs from the strut assembly so you can sort of swing the halfshafts out of the way.

No, not saying that. What I'm saying is that if anything went wrong with it, they will likely screw you around and eventually give you any old shit they have lying around the place. The engine you have may be a good one, but just by chance, not because they have actually tested it or anything. Their idea of a test was connecting it up to a battery and a squeeze bottle of petrol to fire it up. I actually saw them destroy a motor that way once.

And you will burn in eternal damnation :P

The different type of T50 have differing capacities. You need to let us know what type you have. Edit: and you may want to think about where it has all gone

Yes, you can get the exact stuff from the various auto rubber places, and cheaper than on ebay.

Keep it factory, including your fuel system. Make sure you know which sensors, ignitors etc are meant to come with the loom. You will have a bit of fiddling to splice it into the body loom. I have done this exact same conversion on my wife's old car, and If I was you, I would by a crappy donor car, which has the correct looms, engine management, brakes, fuel system etc etc. Otherwise you are going to have a lot of headaches, and far more expense. Plus it probably wont run right. Have also converted an AE86, so I know what I'm talking abou. Edit: Your warranty is likely a waste of time too, I wouldn't get too excited by that. Out of interest, where are you getting this motor from. Toyospares? Buyer beware.

I have had my KE15 in storage since I bought it a little over a year and a half ago. Since then, I have spent time (too much) nearly every day on the internet sourcing parts to rebuild it. A bit here, a bit there, and not all KE15 specific. I have various places I search all over the world. I can tell you it is hard work finding things in good condition. Happily I'm in no rush whilst I get around to finishing my other car. Just don't be in a hurry. It never ceases to amaze me how often apparently immaculate low mileage cars turn up though.

The thing to be careful of, especially in an EFI situation, is that whilst the package may be a good deal on the surface, knowing what you are getting. Or more importantly, what you are not getting. It is the things you subsequently discover are not there, that often end up making it so expensive when trying to track items down individually.

Yes, I have seen your name in the active user list over there too many times! At least I have the decency to disguise my infrequent visits to the parts for sale forum with a reasonably obvious pseudonym. "now if I go 4AGE I know it will stop there as that's basically up there as far as RWD Toyota twin-cams go" Now you should know better than that. It never stops. Next you will be looking at a silver top, then a blacktop, or putting 20 valve throttle bodies on the 16 valve. Then you will pull that out for a 4AGZE, but still not tempted you will convert to a 4AGTE! When you start thinking of the SR20DET, we'll have to take your keys away....... Seriously though, an injected 4AGE is going to add up to a few bikkies to do properly. But I doubt you will have any trouble moving on your 2TG package

:bash::bash::bash::bash::bash::bash::bash::bash: 2 weeks ago it was a hot K motor, last week the 2TG and now the 4AGE!!!!! Well, powerwise they are pretty similar, assuming it is a 16 valve. Parts are much easier to find for the 4AGE. You will need to factor in an A series T50. If you decide to go carbed 4AGE it is pretty simple, EFI much more expensive and complicated to get it right. You need to make sure you have all the sensors, along with a RWD inlet manifold and a decent fuel system. If it is EFI and you set it up properly, which isn't as easy as people seem to think, it is smooth, effortless performance that starts first time everytime. You have been spending too much time over on AE86DC if you ask me......:)

This is exactly my point. Unless it is done (really) well, you will end up with a setup far worse than a thoughtfully modified AE86 front end. You shouldn't be changing to S13 to buy cheap coilovers, that's just ridiculous. There are plently of damper spring brake options for an AE86. Having said that, the number of people who lower their macpherson strut cars till they are scraping on the ground, and wonder why they veer sideways everytime they run over an ant, never ceases to amaze me. Especially when they then complain about being defected. Do some reading of your own, learn what it is all about, think about your requirements, then spend your money once.

I have never understood why people go s13 suspension. If it is a permanent competition car then fine. Then you can do the fabrication required to set your geometry up properly. If it is a road car, occasional comp car, just stay AE86. If you are really keen, there are masses of aftermarket stuff available to substantially modify the AE86 stuff whilst maintaining the basic design. There is nothing stopping you putting Nissan brakes on the front if you are determined to put huge (and I would argue unneccesary) brakes on the car if you really want to.

A mate of mine collects those bikes. He has a collection going back to the 50's. More than 10 in all. Including 'rally pack' kits and all. They are seriously cool. He also has two AE86's two US Mustangs, a Valiant Chargerand a town and country Valiant Ute etc etc. Plus a factory to keep them all in including hoist and a mezzanine to store all his parts and stuff. And a fridge.

So back in after a few hours in the shed. Had a hell of a time getting the sunroof out. Needed to do this so that I could fit the replacement inside sunroof panel I had searched for years to find, after chucking my old dodgy one out. Years back I lashed out on a new genuine sunroof to replace the badly rusted one. Rest of the car was good, sunroof was scrap. I clearly did a good job getting it back in at the time, cause it was hell getting it out again. Whatever sealant I used wasn't letting go. Was convinced I had missed a bolt somewhere, but no it was just sealant. Anyway, noticed a few small areas of rust on the inside lip of the sunroof hole so shall sort them out before reinstalling the panel. One thing though, I found the original inside roof panel slid back into the roof cavity.......:bash: Hadn't thrown it out at all.

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13544

Wow. That is all.

Yes, my thinking too. These ones are the true throughbreds, especially in SL, levin and levin spec respectively. The only other one I would think about (if I had room and the wife wouldn't kill me) would be the TE71GT fusion has now. Fuel injected 2TG in one of those would be good. I notice Al Palmer has his TE27 Trueno on ebay at $20,000!

Realistically I want to get it out and going, really hanging out to drive it again....... Mechanically it is going to be better than new. The body is totally rust free, but after being in the shed all this time, with things going on around it, it has the odd small bump. The paint isn't bad, and a reasonable area was resprayed years ago after some rust removal and a repair not long before it was laid up. But some other areas could possibly benefit from a respray. I'm not really that fussed so will likely learn how to use the buff and see how it comes up. Things like some marks where pinstripes have been removed, well at some stage I may try to blend them in. Was never meant to be a show car however. The KE15, and later the TE27 copy will certainly have a full respray, but as to whether that is done professionally or not, I'm not sure.

I reasoned that if I actually write down what I am doing, it will encourage me to keep at it! Have also put a heater in the shed as am planning a busy winter out there. Fixing the garage door was a big job, having to take these bloody great doors off and remove 1 1/2 cms of the bottom. Bit embarrassing if the car is finished and I can't get it out! Had my son up the wobbly ladder inserting bolts whilst I held the door to stop it falling on the KE15. Oh, I mean so it didn't fall on him.

Currently my favourite thread! Especially love your little girl getting stuck in there. She and my 6 year old would get on real well, especially if she likes Zhu Zhu pets, dancing and Mighty Beanz as well.