Ben-89

I have mentioned in older posts the ae71 needs small dents and rust removed. And have spoken with my uncle about this again and its going to be easier to pull everything off the car i.e, chrome trimming, striping, moulding, mud flaps, bumpers grille and the like. And I thought it would be worth making how I want it while in the process. This is some things I bought after christmas :yes: Here are some photos of the parts wreck that are in earlier pages. I swapped my original odometer with 201XXX kms into the CSX/Spirit cluster. The old 13" rims with trims and centre caps are coming back on. And other relevant/specific detail work will be done.

Reed this car has reached a good point where its now a unique breed of its own :y: Good work mate!

This will make you visualise :wink: Just some of the goodies. :yes: :hmm:

Like the ke70 a lot Brendan, looks very 80's in the pale blue with everything colour coded, good job well done! And that 20 looks very nice as well. You say those chromed steelies are 14", they definetley have the Corolla ventilation holes :hmm: I will have a uess and say they might have come off a T-18 but in 14" diameter.

If you use tectaloy rad flush, you can only run it in the cooling for 20mins from memory. Ke30-55's temp gauges had a tendency to read hotter than they normally were also. Some guys on here install after market reputable temp gauges. I.e VDO and the like.

Also keep the heater tap open so any rubbish inside can be flushed out too. Reed summed up perfectly what I was going to say :y:

I think his name is Matt, Colonel works with him and ive seen his car.

Great work Josh, the ball is now rolling! I went with dad to pick a part for a browse and saw that 55'. You could see the fresh glue that was from that window rubber, and of course the a pillar plastics were gone. I read the owner book that was on the passenger seat, and the dealer delivery date to A.M.I Toyota was 29/12/1980. It just made it to 30! I don't know who the panelvan suits more, you or Woz!

Check your pm Mr Reed :wink:

Nanna visor and those hubcaps I absolutely love. Looks mickey mouse as is! :yes:

What he said Brent! Sounds tough!

Does Harvey aka Homers KE17 drive an early 70's Hilux with fender mirrors :hmm: This was in Cooper St Epping early afternoon. Nice to see an original Hilux!

They look like "Dragway" mag wheels. They were originally produced with a chrome or machined alloy finish. Early 70's to 80s era.

When you got your conversion gear did you get the "manual" wiring loom? The auto one is not really beneficial because if this reason. The manual loom plugs into the black loom on top of the firewall and bends down and one loom of wires travels along the block (near oil filter) and is for oil pressure and temp gauge and starter motor. The second loom continues down the firewall and connects to the small plugs on the gearbox for the reverse switch etc. My mate who helped me do my ae71 conversion made a point of mistakekingly reverse the wires around on the terminals of the starter motor from the ignition otherwise it would not start. Here is a photo of my engine prior to the manual conversion. You can see the black loom I'm taking about and where it travels to.

No don't strip it back, that car will polish up nicley as it was a clean car (paint wise)when you bought it. Use a heat gun when taking off the rub strips and do it carefully :wink: When its finished it will be a pineapple with extra tang :y:

Hey Matty, Just a copyfrom my thread.... :) You'll need the following: 1, Cutting compound I used "Septone" brand compound- like a gritty paste which is watered down slgihtly so its smoother. (Dependant on how bad the paint is.) Just polish all the edges/high spots first by hand so you don't thin or burn the paint. 2, With a buffing machine - the one which looks like an oversize angle grinder and a good lambs wool buff pad polish all the vast flat areas and be generous when putting on the polish or else the paint will be burnt or will have dull finish. I mention to use the buff on large flat because you can also tear the buff padd or it can get caught. 3, Once all the car is polished with the cutting compound, then you can if you want polish the car using a normal cream/wax polish. I used a generous amont of polyglaze diamond finish all over the car before giving it a final polish by hand to remove all the powder finish and then its done. What i'd do first though, cut/polish the car by hand and machine first to a get new layer of paint to surface. Get an exact colour match to the new paint and do the necessary touch ups. It should save the mucking around of using wax remover if you use the wax polish before hand. Lastly with some softer cream/wax polish just go to town with applicating on letting it dry and using plenty of old clean soft cloths to buff it off.

Beautiful mate, always nice to have members sharing stories such as is. Would be nice to see photos of this bought brand new (like a timeline) up the present day. Nice to see you have had it entered in car shows, newspapers and the like to :y:

Good stuff mate, glad to see another ke70 being given attention! :y:

Hey Matty, Just a copy in one of the twenty something pages in my thread.... :) You'll need the following: 1, Cutting compound I used "Septone" brand compound- like a gritty paste which is watered down slgihtly so its smoother. (Dependant on how bad the paint is.) Just polish all the edges/high spots first by hand so you don't thin or burn the paint. 2, With a buffing machine - the one which looks like an oversize angle grinder and a good lambs wool buff pad polish all the vast flat areas and be generous when putting on the polish or else the paint will be burnt or will have dull finish. I mention to use the buff on large flat because you can also tear the buff padd or it can get caught. 3, Once all the car is polished with the cutting compound, then you can if you want polish the car using a normal cream/wax polish. I used a generous amont of polyglaze diamond finish all over the car before giving it a final polish by hand to remove all the powder finish and then its done. What i'd do first though, cut/polish the car by hand and machine first to a get new layer of paint to surface. Get an exact colour match to the new paint and do the necessary touch ups. It should save the mucking around of using wax remover if you use the wax polish before hand. Lastly with some softer cream/wax polish just go to town with applicating on letting it dry and using plenty of old clean soft cloths to buff it off.

Early model Ford Lasers and Falcons from the xa-xf were the worst offenders for the didgeridoo note as a result of having the muffler before the diff and then a mile lenght of tail pipe :n:

Remember when painting a different colour from the original, its going to be a pain doing inside the engine bay, door jams, window frames, boot area. Really its an entire stip down and rebuild. And wanting to to do this on the *cheap* as you previously posted will leave you wondering why you did this. From the photos the car looks too clean to stuff around repainting, and seeing a minty fresh ke in beige is definetley not a bad thing. Anyway heres a photo for you, but if I were you I wouldnt bother.

Awesome photos mate, love all the pics especially third. Trusty ol' girl tagging along with the boys :y:

Ask your dad if 6000 rpm gear changes were done. It seems to be his drag strip.. :laff:

Coil zapping away, sure you didnt flys or mozzies under the bonnet being zapped :laff:

Love the sticker on the rear window at 0:35 :laff: