SLO-030

Vent here, this is Rollaclub. not supraclub :lolcry:

Do it Lesley, Do it for the sake of your fellow members. :lolcry:

Thats the plan Evan. That way i can incorporate all the extra's in the one loom (MSD, gauge wiring, etc) with 25 different colour combinations in the stock engine bay loom i need colour traced wire :lolcry:

Dan, you have 24hrs to produce skid vids.

Cheers Man, Should be good :) Thanks Aaran I still want it done by my 19th/ Old Skool n New Age (30/31st of march) but to be brutally honest i think it will go into over time. don't really wanna rush it too much :lolcry: Aint that the truth, one thing i don't wanna be doing is being stuck on the side of the road with bad overheating issues. Thanks Tom, I have to say that without the help of Luc and more recently Jason (bmxsexmonkey) I don't think half of the stuff that has been done would have happened. So thanks To Luc and Jason, along with all the others that have contributed to this project. As for coming down to PBA, you have my number and I'm there most nights after work and weekends. Just give us a call or drop me a message. Either i'll be there or out somewhere doing something related to this rust bucket that i spend so much time on............ ......Sorry wags, your not a rust bucket.......any more :jamie:

My suggested brand of filler that I've had experience with would have to be Evercoat RAGE. good stuff, about $45 per 4L tin As for wire size, i'd say 0.9mm would be the go, on a pretty low voltage.

Vice grips on the ceramic insulator bro, its the way to go :S

I lost it for loss of demerits. We only get 4 over here on our P plates. I lost 1 point 6 months ago for not having my headlights on (had parkers on) on a well lit main rd (couldnt tell i didnt have em on) and lost the other 3 in the accident i had (failing to give way). and by appeal i mean, prove to the judge i need my licence and if i win I'll get my licence back with only 1 point. so if i fark up for the tinyest thing, thats it.

Yea, For sure Tom. SC stuff still here too :S

I know there are a few T-18's at the wreckers just behind the Caltex virtually on the intersection of South and Daws Rd's.

Got the tailgate sanded today. Filled most of the little low spots and will sand them back tomorrow. Just after being sanded, before being filled A couple low spots are visible in blac Could comfortably get an 8.5" tyre in there I chucked the drivers side doors back on it to tidy up a bit and got a few snaps CHEERS Ryan

I don't know why I did it the way I did, when i could have done it this way. So much simpler :S

Thanks man, There are quite a few pics of the rust and repairs in this link. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=34126

That's it Josh, Less rev's = less fuel. I'm all for displacement, but in such a light car i think the 2T will be suffice torque wise, plus having some spare revs up your sleeve is always handy for getting out of some un-expected situations :S That said, Jason, If you have some Puerto Rican blood in ya, then all hail the 3T :)

Tools; Wire brush (drill or grinder powered) Grinder (1mm cutting disc and flap disc) Welder (Preferably Gas Mig, gasless will do ok tho) Clean, rust free sheet metal (old panels are a good source of the right thickness) Rust converter (for all the small bits you may have missed) Primer (I STRONGLY recommend something like DyMark Zinc Gal. with a 93% zinc content its pretty rust resistant) Good quality body filler and associated sanding equipment Wire brush the rust affected area, usually reveals more rust than you could actually see before (good) Cut out the affected area, make sure the section you cut out is bigger than the affected aread (5-10mm all round if possible) and try to keep the cut out in one piece. Going thru the hole, try to coat as much of the inside of the panel you may thing has the begingings of rust with rust converter. then do the same with the Zinc rich primer. Using the cut out section, cut out a section of clean metal from what you decide to use (not from your car :S) Keep it as close to the shape/size as the cut out section as you can. Remember to add the thickness of the disc to the new section to get it close to the sixe of the hole in the car. Place the new section in the hole in the car and tac weld it in 1 place to hold it. adjust so that the section fits right (try not to let it sit too far out or you'll never get it looking good) once you have it sitting right, using small tac welds, weld opposite sides (like doing up a wheel) going 1 small tac by 1 small tac (to keep the heat and associtated warpage to a bare minimum (it doesnt need to be completely welded around) Use the flap disc to grind the tac welds flat . Spray repaired section with primer. once the primer has dried, mix up a small amount of body filler and smoothly apply to the repaired aread. don't build it up too much (just makes for more sanding) Then sand area and apply more filler if required. Sand and finish till you are happy with the result. I think i have covered most of it..... CHEERS Ryan

Top stuff man, Was gonna shoot you a message on sunday but got caught up finishing off some work. Sorry mate.

Almost there man, Spring rate is dependent on a few things. 1) Number of Coils/ Wire Pitch. Fewer coils/higher pitch = stiffer 2) Spring Diameter. Smaller diameter = Stiffer, Larger diameter = Softer 3) Material diameter. Thicker material = stiffer, Thinner material = softer. For safety's sake, get the chops out and buy a set of proper lowered springs. I bought my KE30 with chops, the front wheels didnt even have to be off the ground for the coils to become non-captive!!!!! What most people would be after is a set of progressional rate springs. These are usually close to the length of your stock spring. But they are designed with a dual pitch rate. These lower the car but can extend to close to normal spring length to help them stay captive. Either that or get shocks to match your application.

Can you PM me with details of this Shaved and "cleaned up" 4K head please.

LOL, flipping the diff.....great. 2T would be alright if you build it up. alot more rev happy than the 3T but for the same factor it lacks the 3T torque. You may actually be able to get a Cert. of Exemption from engineering as overseas models had a 2T fitted.

I do alot of driving, works just under 30km away and can't even get a lift with someone as they all live out the other side of the city. Will DEFINATLY be appealing this. Should get it back tho, I wasnt doing anything silly (skids, speeding, DUI, etc)

Spent an hour or so decoding all the front end loom ready for the engine bay re-wire. Started Off as Hour or so later And some Aerial pics of the 38 and PBA so far CHEERS Ryan

2L pinto out of a Escot/Cortina :S was toying with it for the SLO-030 for a while. you know who to see if ya wanna give it a go :)

Have seen a 30 2dr getting around lately too, If its the one I'm thinkin of its Bamboo in colour. Look mad from behind whilst cruising along :S

Where did you get the system done And hat did it set you back if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks Frosty. Evan, Its meant as no offence to you, i just pissed meself when i read it.