SLO-030

That's it Josh, Less rev's = less fuel. I'm all for displacement, but in such a light car i think the 2T will be suffice torque wise, plus having some spare revs up your sleeve is always handy for getting out of some un-expected situations :S That said, Jason, If you have some Puerto Rican blood in ya, then all hail the 3T :)

Tools; Wire brush (drill or grinder powered) Grinder (1mm cutting disc and flap disc) Welder (Preferably Gas Mig, gasless will do ok tho) Clean, rust free sheet metal (old panels are a good source of the right thickness) Rust converter (for all the small bits you may have missed) Primer (I STRONGLY recommend something like DyMark Zinc Gal. with a 93% zinc content its pretty rust resistant) Good quality body filler and associated sanding equipment Wire brush the rust affected area, usually reveals more rust than you could actually see before (good) Cut out the affected area, make sure the section you cut out is bigger than the affected aread (5-10mm all round if possible) and try to keep the cut out in one piece. Going thru the hole, try to coat as much of the inside of the panel you may thing has the begingings of rust with rust converter. then do the same with the Zinc rich primer. Using the cut out section, cut out a section of clean metal from what you decide to use (not from your car :S) Keep it as close to the shape/size as the cut out section as you can. Remember to add the thickness of the disc to the new section to get it close to the sixe of the hole in the car. Place the new section in the hole in the car and tac weld it in 1 place to hold it. adjust so that the section fits right (try not to let it sit too far out or you'll never get it looking good) once you have it sitting right, using small tac welds, weld opposite sides (like doing up a wheel) going 1 small tac by 1 small tac (to keep the heat and associtated warpage to a bare minimum (it doesnt need to be completely welded around) Use the flap disc to grind the tac welds flat . Spray repaired section with primer. once the primer has dried, mix up a small amount of body filler and smoothly apply to the repaired aread. don't build it up too much (just makes for more sanding) Then sand area and apply more filler if required. Sand and finish till you are happy with the result. I think i have covered most of it..... CHEERS Ryan

Top stuff man, Was gonna shoot you a message on sunday but got caught up finishing off some work. Sorry mate.

Almost there man, Spring rate is dependent on a few things. 1) Number of Coils/ Wire Pitch. Fewer coils/higher pitch = stiffer 2) Spring Diameter. Smaller diameter = Stiffer, Larger diameter = Softer 3) Material diameter. Thicker material = stiffer, Thinner material = softer. For safety's sake, get the chops out and buy a set of proper lowered springs. I bought my KE30 with chops, the front wheels didnt even have to be off the ground for the coils to become non-captive!!!!! What most people would be after is a set of progressional rate springs. These are usually close to the length of your stock spring. But they are designed with a dual pitch rate. These lower the car but can extend to close to normal spring length to help them stay captive. Either that or get shocks to match your application.

Can you PM me with details of this Shaved and "cleaned up" 4K head please.

LOL, flipping the diff.....great. 2T would be alright if you build it up. alot more rev happy than the 3T but for the same factor it lacks the 3T torque. You may actually be able to get a Cert. of Exemption from engineering as overseas models had a 2T fitted.

I do alot of driving, works just under 30km away and can't even get a lift with someone as they all live out the other side of the city. Will DEFINATLY be appealing this. Should get it back tho, I wasnt doing anything silly (skids, speeding, DUI, etc)

Spent an hour or so decoding all the front end loom ready for the engine bay re-wire. Started Off as Hour or so later And some Aerial pics of the 38 and PBA so far CHEERS Ryan

2L pinto out of a Escot/Cortina :S was toying with it for the SLO-030 for a while. you know who to see if ya wanna give it a go :)

Have seen a 30 2dr getting around lately too, If its the one I'm thinkin of its Bamboo in colour. Look mad from behind whilst cruising along :S

Where did you get the system done And hat did it set you back if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks Frosty. Evan, Its meant as no offence to you, i just pissed meself when i read it.

NOW that's Mustaf's kinda corolla :S

I couldnt leave ya out, or Mustaf would cop a CM round the ratstail :S

Hey Guys, A question for all of the auto leccy's out there. Where can I buy wire to suit making a loom. (With colour traces) I can't seem to find any. I'm going to re-wire the front end of the 38 to suit the hidden wiring and need to find out where to get it from. P.S. NOT the 7m rolls of single colour from the hardware store. CHEERS Ryan

K-W50 are getting more and more common due to the amount of KR42R's getting stripped out.

No offence Morgzz, As proud as you would be of your car. 90% of the threads you post in have a pic of your car...

WGMG.....SEVERELY..... The man taking away my bit of plastic to say i can drive in 16 days ;)

9 months later, out pops a KE15 ;) But I think Jason's is a Boy...........It has a fat pipe....... ;)

I'll say :lolcry: Goes hard. But would be awesome in RWD format ;) Thanks to Jason and Luc the rear window inserts are nearing perfection. I stripped backthe drivers rear 1/4 as it seemed like it had heaps of bog in it. To my suprise its straight as a die with the exception of 2 small dents right at the bottom.

kill them. Kill them all

I'm pretty sure they are pressure or vacuum ports. as for where they go, i couldnt help ya mate. also, wrong section bud

Cheers bud, Work on the wagon is being put to the side while we work on SUS-082. Should be done today tho, I have now confirmed why i like RWD ;)

Yea mate, on a trailer

Spotted SUS-082 following me rather closely this arvo. Backwards too :)