irokin

Yea any cam shop should be able to recommend the cam profile. Tell them exactly what you have including the carbys and what you want.

Redwarf our resident corolla rally expert upgraded from twin SUs to twin 40DCOE webers. I'm not sure how the profile differs...only that it does. I have a feeling its to do with the ramp rates but I'm unsure how hydro lifters work...

Yea I think the ports on the 2T-G head are bigger. I don't think the price includes the side drafts. Personally I'm going to stick with the pushrods for a little longer yet. can't really justify $300+ just to convert to twincam. The price would probably end up being in excess of $600-800 after you buy all the new gaskets (which are near impossible to get here in australia, you have to get them in from overseas) reface the head, fix up all the timing gear and get it all together. By that stage Id be going "why don't I just buy a 4A-GE".

yep no problems here....

300AUD = 175.581 EURO 2T-G in stock form is ~124hp. 2T-B is something like 119hp.

Agreed. I have a strong dislike for Shell. I tend to only buy Caltex and BP. If I buy premium I only ever buy BP Ultimate. Its the shiznat. (cept for 110LL)

2T-G head will fit on a 2T/2T-B no problems. You need all the front timing covers, dummy camshaft, top timing chain, full and complete 2T-G head with camshafts etc, different intake manifold but your extractors will still fit the twincam head. I can source all of this stuff for about $300AUD Good luck :jason:

Oh another thing someones neglected to mention. If you change to solids you will need to change the camshaft to a grind that is suitable to soild lifters. Easiest way to do this is grab a 4K camshaft. If your in Brisbane I have a spare one I could supply.

camrypride: I might be able to. Its a little out of the way but meh. I'm right for whenever. Just give me at least a weeks notice.

Id buy it just for the motor...mmm DCOE induced 4A-G

Its gotta be a redwarf action pic...no doubt

In my experience unleaded yeilds the best results. I found that running premium you accually lost power. I BELIEVE this is because of the short stroke and premium doesnt have enough time to complete a full burn. I ran unleaded for 6 months or so before an engine rebuild. Upon inspection of the valves there was minor pitting...nothing too severe (alebit this was a 30 year old motor in 100% original factory condition...just worn out so the pitting may not have been from the unleaded). Most of the guys here run unleaded or premium unleaded with no problems what-so-ever. If your concerned about running unleaded you can put in some stem lube but in my honest opinion they don't need it.

Id be more than happy to fork over $20 to have a go at it.

86seca: http://www.rollaclub.com/database/index.php

wow 14th outright is damn tidy!! Its the proflex i tells ya :jason:

lol yea....I started to get nervous when I read the no brakes bit.... :jason: I'm watching WRC and reading this...pure excitement. Was this in the Red or Blue Dwarf?

Probably start with something like Nissan silvia projectors. Rip the guts out of them and graft them into the levin headlights.

can't say I have. Id Imagine its more than possible to do though.

Xany completely replaced the hydraulic lifters (as opposed to converting them) with holden six lifters I think they were. Xany can you confirm?

4.111 is a common Borg Warner ratio I know of. Theres bound to be all different types in wagons/panel vans etc

It'd be great to see you there. I think she should lay down a diecent time.

still a while off yet :jason:

as far as I know they are not forged but are ceramic coated.

I'm pretty sure they wont be happy with the stock AE71 brakes either.

Unless your going to a dodgy fella your gonna have big problems getting a mod plate.