irokin

lol cheers guys. Sadly no Toyota or Nissan cakes. Spencer, for some reason I'm in stitches when ever I think of that image now. BOVs are for homos :P

What's your goals with it (power and types of events, drift, drag etc)? I've seen guys demolish the standard gearbox with standard power but driving like an arse at the track. I've seen them take 220kW driven by a completely incompetent dick and survive on the street. An RB30 box might possibly work with the powertune kit but I wouldn't want to put any money on it. From what I understand though the R31 gearbox is essentially the same as the RB20 gearbox and aren't any stronger than the SR box. It'd be a whole lot of money for no gain. http://powertune.com.au/pta-adapterkit.html Tailshaft will need to be custom made. Loom, ECU, AFM, Ignitor, radiator (maybe), instrument cluster, other bits and bobs. Everything else you could sell off to recoup costs.

I made it 3, just for you :) Don't really want to make it too much higher. 3 per post, 15 posts per page, makes it up to 45 videos per page. Would suck pretty bad on a slow computer. I think a bigger concern is that we'll eventually lose the people who have the skills to do things like that. I hope there's some young people out there learning from these guys while they still can. That HK 1 piece 1/4 is amazing!

Love those mounts :y:

1. Whatever works, have a look at what others have done (This is Research!). 2. Never heard of any RB box (there's about 4+ in the Skyline alone) that bolts up to an SR20. There's adapter kits for the R33 RB25DET and Z32 VG30DET gearbox available in Australia (both of those gearboxes are huge, capable of 600hp). I would budget somewhere around $5000 for a start to finish gearbox conversion. Just use the standard SR box, unless you drive like a complete idiot or make 250kW+ they're fine. Get a half cut, it will make life much much easier. You can do it piece by piece but its a pain in the arse (and expensive) hunting for the missing pieces. I did it without a halfcut but I had a network of contacts in order to find parts, it was still considerably more expensive though. 4A-GEs, no comment :ninja:

Cross the bridge when we get there. I don't think it wouldn't make any business sense for someone to bother doing it now. You KE55 guys will be alright, just watch what the KE1x guys do ;)

New helmet :D Just need a car so I can use it now :hmm:

:yes: but you can't just use any acid, its phosphoric acid (same stuff that's in Coke IIRC). It turns Iron Oxide (Fe2O3) into Iron Phosphate (FePO4). I've never had much long term success with off the shelf rust converters. Eventually the rust underneath has come through again. You might have better luck with strong Phosphoric acid, but be REALLY careful if you get something that's laboratory grade! Definitely get your PPE sorted before opening anything.

Don't blame scientists, blame the retard "journalists" who are completely incapable of reporting on accurately or even comprehending the meaning of scientific papers. I think many of them fail to grasp the basic concepts or process of peer review. Unless of course you're talking about studies that have a predetermined outcome...

Its not much to look at, I've just tried to concentrate on going fast, keeping it alive and staying away from gimmicky parts. More than happy to take you for a ride sometime next year, I usually can only do one per track day though.

I think it'd have to be RWD with that kind of weight loss. Probably a Holinger in the conventional spot and a conventional diff down the back? Looks like its still a bit of a whale though haha

Dropped the sil off at the mechanics this afternoon. Hilux tows like a trooper even with a trashy rental trailer. Gotta drop back down on Friday to discuss the finer points of some of the work to be done. Also diff should hopefully be here by then and I can drop that off too. Ended up buying a Kaaz 1.5 way because apparently Nismo don't make LSDs for CA18DET diffs anymore. I'm a little bit skeptical about that but the Kaaz should do fine. Also mechanics talking about possibly rewiring the whole engine loom with highly shielded cable to ensure I don't have any future issues with aftermarket ECUs. Given the Haltech E8 is out of production now I'm not entirely sure I want it wired up for that. It looks like the new models have the same connectors and similar pinouts though. The problem then is reports that haltech's support is less than impressive of late. And I think Halwin is HORRID software. If it comes to rewiring I may just go back to a Wolf. I'm still reasonably confident that low voltage causing the ECU to cycle on and off while cranking is whats corrupted the map. Reading about EEPROMs corrupting I found this (not an ECU but I think the principle will apply): http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2467.pdf Scenario: Low battery charge, car starts cranking, voltage drops below 10v every time a cylinder goes to TDC (E8 shutoff voltage I'm told), repeat for a little bit and you have multiple opportunities for corruption. That's my theory anyway. I'd appreciate feedback from people more knowledgeable than me :)

No brakes at 180mph... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hNZmxHcCq0 Oh and Will Power won :D

http://www.aodeals.com.au/deals/kkr-20mm-wheel-spacers-pair-and-hub-centric-ring/

I used to like commodores :blinks:

Gonna send the advertising guys an email. They're not SUPPOSED to do that, making me kinda cranky too.

Was having trouble with this rental trailer and the tow hitch wanting to constantly lay on its side (judging by the wear its been doing this for a long time). This was my solution: Anti-squat drift pineapples, what the fk else am I gonna use them for?

Wouldn't surprise me at all :| That was a major factor in my decision to get those springs out of my car. I was seriously concerned about the long term effects on the chassis (along with the rubbish ride and dicey handling). I probably could have swapped in lower spring rates and those shock absorbers would have worked fine but I have no regrets buying a complete spring/shock package.

I'm nominating this thread for Derp of the year award. If you're not prepared to put the time and effort into your questions then why on earth would anyone ever bother putting time and effort into their replies? Its a credit to the people who have bothered to reply. I think you should consider yourself lucky for not getting your head chewed off! p.s. buy my VH45, it'll go hella hard mang

Fixed the leaky sump on the weekend. It was just the sensor bung, teflon taped up all nicely now. Added a bead of RTV in a couple of spots around the flange that I was questioning a little just as insurance. Went to start it with whatever charge was left in the battery (enough to turn it over happily) but the volts were dropping enough for the haltech to shut itself down. Charged the battery up overnight and fired up easily enough this afternoon. Drove it out of the garage just to check the clutch/gearbox/diff still work (lol), forgot how much like a light switch that clutch is :| Car goes to the mechanics on Wednesday, the list has grown a bit for him. Thinking about relocating the radiator overflow to where the battery normally is with a combination oil catch can, hopefully around the 2L capacity (Cams spec, yay). Just need to make room for the remote oil filter/thermostat somewhere. Could run it under the guard maybe, where the washer bottle currently is, then again not so much fun if a filter/fitting comes loose. Also going to get an alloy sheet made up to cover where the glove box was in order to mount the ECU somewhere safe. Annnd the last of my brake setup finally shipped from Japan. Good times :D

I think you could go a fair ways to remedying the noise these days. Again, they're noisy on aircraft due to space and aerodynamic constraints dictated by that application. On a car you've got space for mufflers and large airboxes etc. The Chrysler turbine car sounds fairly reasonable using 1960s technology. I would hope we can do better almost 50 years on. Output speed and reduction gearboxes aren't an issue IMO. Remember the blades of a prop or rotor don't spin anywhere near those speeds so the aviation industry is capable of packing in light weight, compact and ultra reliable reduction gearboxes. The PW150A off the Dash 8 Q400 (3600kW!) has an output speed of ~1000rpm through a two stage free power turbine and reduction gearbox arrangement. Many other turbines output in the range of 1000-6000rpm. I wouldn't consider driving the wheels directly, but coupling it through an electric drive system. Hopefully that would allow you to reduce shock loading the turbine and add regenerative braking etc. The biggest problem I see is cost. Because these engines have to be so reliable the cost of buying and rebuilding them is obscene. What it'd need to be successful in the automotive industry is for someone to do to the gas turbine what they did to the Rolls-Royce Merlin when they turned it into the Rolls-Royce Meteor. Essentially the same engine but the Meteor took the Merlin design and adapted components for use in tanks, where weight and massive performance didn't matter. Alloy parts were replaced with steel and generally, expensive parts that were unnecessary for a ground application were removed or replaced.

No matter how much spark you give it, if there is insufficient oxygen to complete the combustion you will have unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust. No witchcraft going on here, just simple chemistry. Likewise with extractors, you're still going to have the same/similar ratio of fuel/air just perhaps more of it. Address the issue directly ;)

Drill, tap, helicoil? Or is there a chunk missing?

Personally I think people use stiff as shit springs to compensate for them cheaping out on (or buying incorrect) shock absorbers. Having had 8kg/6kg in a 1300kg Silvia, I don't understand why anyone would ever contemplate putting those spring rates in a 900kg street driven Corolla. It would be so stiff its bordering on or beyond dangerous for the street. Even for drift a softer setup will work. I think its a bit of a myth that you need this ultra stiff setup to encourage the car to break traction.

Worth starting another thread about the issue? I wonder if Tomei's head studs have solved the problem? I dare say they're made by ARP anyway but hopefully to Tomei's specifications.