irokin

Manuals are 4.1, autos are 4.3

holycrap its Jamie! And goddamn that looks good matt... We should have a cruise of worship for this car when its ready for the road.

Welcome! Going by the hit statistics theres been more than a few people visit the site from Russia! I'd say you'd be the first to have signed up. I noticed yandex.ru indexed the site (and used copious amounts of data) a few months back. Were there any corollas available in Russia during the Soviet Union era?

Why don't you just ask me seen as I was the one that put the diff there in the first place... I'm sure I've told you this more than a few times in the past.

Blue smoke is oil. Crackling sounds more like running lean to me, so does losing all its power. Possibly a blocked jet.

The very latest in Wolfs whizz bang lineup of ECUs. A brand new V500. They probably have made some good ECUs over the years, doesn't change the fact their customer service was appalling. Completely off topic anyway...

Lower control arm?

Don't get me started. There were dramas before I even got the goddamn thing. Ended up being a 2-3 month wait for the biggest heap of shit ECU and then even worse customer support. I returned mine under warrenty and they found a fault with the PCB (after a 6 week wait)...they sent out a total replacement ecu and.....it had the same goddamn f@$king fault. I suggested that there could be a design fault and I was basically ridiculed. This was all over 6 months or so. I ended up EVENTUALLY getting a refund (for quite a bit less than I should have got). Cut my losses and bought a Haltech. What a surprise it was when the haltech didn't have the same fault!

Ive got a flogged out KE70 auto diff here if you wanted to take it for a trial fit?

yea don't pick the wolf...take it from me. I think I'll have nightmares tonight just because you mentioned their name.

1-3-4-2

Always budget more time than you need. If you think it'll only take one day, so you start it on Sunday and need to drive the car on Monday, its guaranteed to bite you on the arse. If you're a first timer maybe budget two weekends and have the car off the road for a week. That'll give you a chance to take it nice and slow and replace all the flogged out things you find along the way.

4K = 1290cc 5K = 1496cc Difference = 206cc Liteace vans and other random shit. Came in KE70 wagons overseas but not any in australia AFAIK.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

heheheh yea. Whats even more funny is that my car runs the same kind of lap times as he does... with a mere 255hp... on street tyres

hehe I forgot about this thread. I was at a track day recently (no shit!) and there was a guy with a 600hp supercharged VT commodore. I thought it was hilarious that he was changing supercharger belts every 3-4 sessions because the supercharger was drawing so much power off the crank and just shredding gilmore belts. Meanwhile a few pit bays down I slap some fuel in after 4 sessions and I'm good for another 4.

Didn't come with 16v 4As anywhere. Or 16 valve anythings. Closest was the 1600GT in japan that had a 2T-G. Certainly didn't come with 20vs! AE86s came with 16 valves but not in Australia AFAIK. Just start small and dream about something big. Dreaming is free...and much safer for a learner. p.s. Allowed not Aloud.

Just looking at your rides thread. Whats wrong with a standard manifold? It'll flow more air than the chinese turbo will. In fact I've seen the standard redtop manifold flow 550whp on a mates T88 equipped drag car...! Not ideal but it more than managed. I imagine it should clear the master cylinder too. The standard S13 clutch master is longer and closer to the motor than that.

called rare spares?

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?pa...p;id=13&m=b

omghi2u! Welcome back to the land of endless frustration...

You want the 19 spline. 21 spline is the T50 in the AE71.

You can't have your cake and eat it too. 5000-8500rpm is a pretty normal size powerband for most similar motors. Motors closer to square (SR20) will bring that down to something like 4000rpm-7500rpm. Sticking a sizeable amount of airflow into a 4A at such low RPMs is going to give it some chronic piston slap. It's simply not designed to make power at that end of the spectrum. Even with a correctly matched turbo you're not going to be able to bring that down much without losing a fair amount of top end as well as max power and area under the curve.

Off the top of my head the tach signal wire is either yellow with a green trace or yellow with a red trace. I'll have to check... Should run the standard tacho but. Edit: Its yellow/red. Yellow/green is veh speed.

Just change the pulley ratio. Whatever supercharger you use you're going to pull the powerband down so you will have to sacrifice top end just like you would with a smaller housing turbo. I get the feeling this is for a twincharging setup but?