irokin

Archerfield FTW. Two strokes or nothing! I've tried nearly every kart track in SE QLD and theirs are the fastest by far.

Well that kinda rules me out, more Lakeside fun on Queens Bday weekend.

But its about where the energy is taken from to compress the air. Waste heat energy is going to be more efficient than taking good crank energy away from where its needed.

But then you have to weigh up a lower polar moment of inertia with a higher CoG. Personally I think you're better off keeping the fuel tank low and behind the rear axle. Moving it to a position directly above the rear axle is a very significant increase in CoG but only a small decrease in polar moment. Ideally you'd mount it on the floor behind the driver but thats not legal or safe in anyones book.

I've decided to discontinue all commercial sponsoring and advertising. I wish to thank our sponsors for their support over the past 6 or so months. I will honor all existing payments but will not be taking any new sponsors or renewals. Google Adsense will also be reviewed soon as it is not generating anywhere near enough revenue (however there are other benefits such as more frequent google crawls). There are several reasons for this decision. The main reason is that I have seen the result of a heavily commercialised community forum and I do not wish for Rollaclub to become one. I also do not have the time and resources to commit to good customer service and to operate correctly as either a non-profit organisation or business. I feel the site can operate on the few donations we receive and I will continue to make up the difference. I also wish to remind people that we do not allow any unsolicited advertising in posts, PMs, signatures or avatars. As I pay a large percentage of the sites fees I feel it is unfair that other people wish to profit off something that does cost me a substantial amount of money. Thanks, Ben & The Rollaclub Team.

Well its not really designed for road cars. The big design advantage is that it takes loads of torque down the shaft but a knock from the side will snap it. So when your unis fail it doesn't take your legs off, the shaft just disintegrates. Its also a piece of cake to balance because of the low weight. That particular shaft is for an S13 and I very nearly bought it!

Nothing a spot of carbon composite can't fix (yes its full carbon, not carbon laid up over steel). A bargain at only $1600!

You shouldn't be heating it hot enough to get fumes. No need to go that hot! Once the stuff goes really soft it actually makes it more difficult. Can't say I particularly like the air chisel idea either :lolcry:. Undue haste makes waste!

One of the support cars was a Prado... The event was sponsored by Toyota so I guess they got to choose which car featured.

I use a heat gun and a paint scraper. The job sucks and theres no truly easy way to do it. Basically I try to heat up a big section (say 20cm.sq) and remove it but you need to heat it so that it soaks through to the underside (rather than just heat the top surface). I spend maybe 2-3 minutes heating up the section on low heat (something like 240deg on my gun), then the adhesive goes soft and it just peels off (still takes a fair bit of force). To remove the residue left over I used carby cleaner because it just happened to be nearby but any similar kind of solvent should work. Comes of easy. I do know people who've done it using dry ice but I'm not convinced its any easier (It involves freezing the tar so its hard and smashing it off).

I hope you approve of my new avatar. Just weld a plate on the back of the turbo and get a low profile actuator. A GTiR turbo actuator would probably suit your application perfectly. But you really need to look at clocking the turbo so that your bearing cartridge and compressor are pointing in the right direction now. That way when you weld the new bracket to the compressor housing everything is where it should be. Yes you can weld the alloy on turbo housings, its done frequently. If you don't want to weld buy a GT2560R so you will have bolts on the rear of the compressor housing where you can bolt a new bracket on. It'll cost about $1100del and you'll have far better reliability than a pooey T25. If you won't take the drain advice from me take it from garrett:

No you won't be able to (at least not easily). KE30s use leaf springs where as KE70s use a 5-link setup with coil springs so all the mounts will be missing on your KE30 diff. Just have a hunt around for someone wrecking a KE70, shouldn't be too hard to sus one out.

Take it from people with more experience with turbos than you. The drain NEEDS to be pointing vertically down or else you will blow the oil seals of the turbo out. But if you think you know better go right ahead...

Lay shaft bearings. 4th doesn't make a noise because the lay shaft isn't under load. I drove a noisy K50 box (same issue) for a year or so. Got sick of the noise before the gearbox gave up!

~700-720kg

Orly? I'd be interested to see some research to back it up. 150E fits with their other 4cyl NA racing engine naming. Perhaps there were two iterations? I'd be interested to find out... WinKE55 what I suggest you do is go for a 2T-G (if you want the nostalgia look) and forget about throwing money at a K engine.

What everyone calls a 3K-R is actually a 150E. Its a racing engine and only a handful were ever made beginning around 1973 and ending sometime in the early 1980s when the starlet was replaced. Translation from a japanese magazine: Even if you ever did manage to find one and pay the arm and leg it costs you'd have one hell of a time trying to fit it to a standard block, the camshafts would be seriously nasty (they were designed for oval racing with continuous running up around 10,000rpm) and you'd probably end up killing it because it was never intended for any other application, certainly not road use! I'm still curious to know who said I had one Winky....

THEYRE NOT CALLED AND NEVER HAVE BEEN CALLED 3K-Rs </brain explosion> They are called 150Es and no you will never ever find one so stop looking and asking.

I'd prefer it if people don't involve money with cruises, even if it is for a good cause. Leaves organisers (and potentially the site as a whole) open to accusations.

The charade carby should bolt on, or go very close, by my research.

Believe it or not you have my old KE20 so I can give you a definitive answer. The diff is out of an auto KE30 (4.3 ratio) and has KE20 diff mounts welded on. You'll find its slightly wider than a KE20 diff. The front struts are KE20 items and have KE30 backing plates with KE70 hubs (KE20 bearings), calipers and rotors.

SPECTATORS: This is a closed venue. Only officials, drivers and there pit crew will be allowed in. Remember the Gates Locked rule for everyone. Confirmed. And Ive already got pit crew... Though if you wanted to drive I'm told theres still a few spots left!!

Its actually JIL and stands for Japanese Institute of Labour and basically means an approval for the rims sale in Japan. The JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) logo looked like this (Its being changed later this year): http://alloy-artifacts.com/Photos/tools/jis_logo.jpg

I've been informed gates are locked at 9:30am so I think thats a nice way of saying no spectators.

Ok this is getting out of hand again. Post count turned off...