irokin

You've got to ask the question, what do you enjoy more? Driving a car on the track or building a car (to drive on the track). I get great satisfaction from building my own car, testing it and then figuring out where I can improve. I knew from the word GO that it was going to be more expensive than buying a ready-prepped car. Just make sure you go in with your eyes wide open and consider the costs of both. Building seems like an attractive and cheap option when starting out but believe me its not!

I'll reopen this just so you don't keep posting the same topic over and over (which, by the way, is against the rules).

Noticed it wasn't there on my way past on friday. Figured they'd moved it down to the toyota section. Good luck to who ever bought it...

e.g. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=15330

Let me put it this way. I have the cash to save it, I went and had a look good with Teddy and the cars still sitting at the wreckers. Its really not worth it IMO.

Thats what I'm running in a 1200kg silvia and trust me its FAR too stiff even for the track. Try something more like 5/4 with good dampers.

I'm keen to get my Bilstein guy on here because his suspension will flog the AJPS gear all over the shop. We're talking about properly engineered suspension using shock dynos with hours and hours of on car R&D by an ex V8 Supercar suspension engineer using quality german monotube shock absorbers. Unfortunately I'm not sure how many people would be willing to pay the sort of money they cost. So far my kits pushing $3000 but that includes a few other bits and pieces (swaybars and the like). The bilstein shocks and eibach springs alone are ~$2400.

Do some toyota news articles for me? Learn a programming language?

bleh!! can't win with ebay these days...hence I haven't used it in more than 4 years...and don't plan to anytime soon

Plenty of people...thats why they do it 8| No reason you couldn't leave negative feedback something along the lines of "Item was good but postage was ridiculous" etc

Shouldn't have said that. Teddy will be humping your leg in no time!!

Hi Power racings Honda CRX is testament to that. They run 57s around QR sprint with a NA B20 and RE55S semis. Its never broken down either! Id still prefer a RWD though...

Errmm.... wouldn't no seals = no brakes?? Please for the love of god don't drive it. Get them reconditioned or buy a coffin...!

Ive run KE70 brakes on a KE20 with the standard unboosted master cyl. Brakes are a bit softer than standard (half farked brake lines probably didn't help) but its not any more difficult to stop.

Do you want to know if the KE25 master cyl is going to be enough to power KE70 calipers?

Slapper I think you're confusing the gear engagement (syncro/dog) with the gears themselves. The two gears are actually never become disconnected. They are always meshing even if that gear isn't being used. The syncro or dog locks that gear to the shaft thus selecting the gear. I'm pretty crap at explaining it however... You can have helical dog boxes and straight cut syncro boxes. Just because you have straight cut gears does not mean you have to have a dog engagement (but thats usually the way people go. Racing means more strength needed and fastest possible shifts which means straight cut gears and dog engagement). Jason if you intend to spend much/any time on the street avoid the straight cut. I know I said it in a previous post...but just so you're 100% clear with my view :evil: $2k is very cheap for any aftermarket gearset. I would be questioning its quality if its new? OS Giken 1st to 3rd gearsets for silvias start at ~$1.7k ex-japan. Full gear sets start at more like $3k without any heavy duty options. Good gearset manufacturers (PPG, PAR, etc) start at ~$5k for syncro boxes and ~$8-9k for a full blown straight cut dog box. Also if its a dog engagement gearset (I doubt it for that price) be prepared to service it every 5000km or so. Replace damaged dogs, refinish balk rings, replace anything else that needs it and other shit like that. They are very high maintenance gearboxes. I've done probably well over 100hrs of research on gearboxes and gearsets for my car as I'm about to start grenading gearboxes myself :( and Id like to get it right the first time considering the cost of the bloody things

Even if a straight cut gearset is a T50 is stronger than a W50 I think you'll be beating your head against the window with the amount of noise. If you're going to street it just stick with a helical. There is a reason hollinger uses straight cut gears in their $30,000+ gearboxes....and I'm pretty sure its not because they're weaker.

2.778 meters. Not hard maths... :) Probably more to do with machine familiarity. I know when we got our new $1mil loader at work they were VERY selective as to who drove it. Took a few months before they let some of the other operators close to it.

Whoa for $250 you'd be better off with Ferodo DS2500s. I use ferodos on the front and racebrakes RB74s in the rear of my silvia. The Ferodos are phenominal (~$245) and the RB74s are very decent for the price (~$145). The RB74s are far dustier than the Ferodos and tend to eat the rotors...but certainly no worse than EBC pads. The ferodos have exceptionally good friction co-efficent even when cold but even better when hot! I feel quite comfortable driving with them on the street (as opposed to my endless CCX pads that almost caused an accident...). I don't think I would ever consider a bendix brake pad ever again. They've burned me too many times now. I dunno where you could go in melbourne but I get my pads through Mercury motorsport in Brisbane.

Is this what you're talking about? I'm surprised you're having issues. I put a KE70 K50 in my KE20 with very little drama. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...s/K50_into_KE20

Boom tish! He's here all week folks, try the veal...

....I spoke too soon. They tested the ECU further and DID find a fault. The entire guts of the ECU has been replaced and is being returned to me ASAP. Yahoo for Wolf. Fantastic ECU. Fantastic customer service (and they NEVER treated me like an idiot). They're no longer competing with Microtech, Haltech etc they're now taking on Motec. I compared my V500 specs to those of a Motec M800. The Wolf either MATCHES or EXCEEDS the output/inputs and has 2 more ignition outputs than the Motec. The only place they aren't matching the motec at the moment is on board datalogging and other telemetry related "upgrades" but unless you're very serious its not exactly necessary. annnyway just very relieved that they did find the problem and I'm not just going insane....

Flyer removed - we're not here to provide free advertising for YOUR sponsors.

Knowledge Base/FAQ should help you out heaps - http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...ont_Disc_Brakes Ive talked a few times on the forum about my KE70 brake upgrade on my KE20. Have a search, I don't have time to try and find it just at the moment sorry. Basically just substitute KE20 hubs for KE30/55/70 hubs if you want 4x114.3 stud pattern. Diff is a bit more difficult. I welded KE20 mounts on a KE30 diff. Track was a bit wider but it fit OK on a KE20. KE30 axles into a KE20 diff doesn't work correctly unless you shorten the axles.

lol sorry John! Sif I've got time to talk shit AND moderate at the same time. Off topic area, do what you want :D