KEI069

A side on shot just so people can try pick the subtle body mods haha!

Thanks guys, I would have loved to run the Hilborn style scoop but for roadworthy reasons it just wasn't gonna work, I'm still making an adapter for it though just for shits and giggles. So I have already broken a l/h engine mount in under 1500 kms, ( it was new ) but I guess that's all a part of trying something A bit different.

Well it just so happens

That looks sweet man!

Oh and I will add this pic of the front sway bar as there has been a bit of discussion about them Lately, So I cold pressed the last bend inward about 15 mm each side for caliper clearance And made all my own mounting and link attachments. It's a whtieline bar by the way. Cheers Justin

Well she's been registered for about a month now, and man it's a blast to drive. Reckon I've been across mount dandenong at least 3 times already.

Hey Stu, what's the go with the Borgy diff. Thought these all had the jap diff. Good chatting with ya up at sky high man, looking forward to this new engine. Reckon those wheels should look pretty flash too.

that was a good morning guys, enjoyed chatting to everyone and meeting a few people, some nice cars out, loved the 69 crown coupe and the ta22 with sidepipe exhaust. and who can resist an awesome drive up that mountain, that never gets old, especially when you get a car that actually handles. Cheers Justin

Boosted brakes and a/c, that's out of control. Nice ride bud, good luck with the build

Haha, still running standard crossmember and all standard steering. My coil over setup is a bit mix and match. I got a hold of a sleeve of unknown origin with the adjustable nut/ spring base And used some steam pipe for the strut tube. Milled the original strut tube from the stub axle section And welded in the steam pipe, and then the adjustable sleeve. Used a king spring ( can't remember rate) and a tender spring, and the adjustable top is a home made piece from a mate of a mate sort of a deal so I don't know the details on that section. For the life of me I cannot remember what Insert I used but ae86 or Mazda rx3 sounds familiar. I might have to pull these out soon cos I forgot to fit bumpstops so I can check what insert it is. I can't seem to figure out how to get photos from i phone/ pad onto here or I would. Hope this helps

Hey Darren, front leaf is gone, to much stuffing around to keep it actually. I used a coil over setup and an adjustable top plate for the camber, I've only had the car on the road for three weeks but so far all is good.

I have a whiteline sway bar on my 10 but I made all my own mountings, I also Modified the bar the same way as on tommys to avoid caliper ( which I have Experienced before, not fun) and this is a great upgrade, but my biggest handling Improvement came from getting 1.5 degree of negative camber. The car is now very enjoyable to drive through the twisty bits. Cheers Justin.

Ok so the top photo will work better for noise reduction and the reverse direction better for flow. Can be used Either way just depends how much noise your trying to drop. The newer hotdog resonators are a perforated internal Tube with no directional louvres and flow much better and reduce more noise. With mufflers, it comes down to volume, more volume = less noise. I never use tri flow mufflers. Every sports muffler I fit is straight through glass packed with perforated tube. Bigger muffler for less noise with best possible flow. The perforated tube gives a larger contact area for exhaust gas to fibreglass packing. Hope this helps.

That sounds about right. I run a 1 - 1 drive on my 5k with a sc14 and it runs 8 psi at 6000 rpm

Well, time flies when you're having fun. This little rig is almost ready for the road, The engine got run in on the dyno about 2 months ago then tuned for reliability . It made 116 hp at the tyres @ 6000 rpm on 8 psi boost. The blower is running a 1 - 1 drive, I have only driven it once and man it pulls hard. I'm hopeful it will be ready for reg in a month or two I would put up pics but I only have an I pad and can't figure out how it all works. Cheers Justin

Hey Stu, the Mazda 626 rear wheel drive and rx4 cylinders are very similar if not the same. To fit the ke10 you elongate the two mounting holes about 1.5 mm and shave the sides of the mounting flange To fit between the firewall supports. Also make the hole in the firewall a couple of mm larger In diameter. I think you might even be able to use the standard brake lines Cheers Justin

Put a Mazda rx4 master cylinder on it and get dual circuit. Small mods needed but not overly difficult.

Yep, and they fit well. I have fitted quite a few sets of these on ke10 - ke70 and never had a problem, Currently have a set on my ke20 with toyota twin carbs and toyoglide. They will also fit a ke10 with 5k and twin side drafts

Ok so I know this is a super old thread but I need a little help. I'm putting a tacho dash cluster in my KE10 and I checked the FAQs for pin location but I need the wire colours that suit each position. The dash plug has been removed from the loom at some point and I have no idea where each Wire needs to be . It's a 1969 model if that makes a difference. If anyone has a wiring diagram they could copy it would be very much appreciated

Rubbish, they are still available and reasonably priced, about $ 150 a set

I used a soldering iron to make holes for all mounting bolts for the seats and anything else that needed a hole. It melted the backing and sealed the carpet fibers so they don't fray. Then trim the outsides to suit, easier said than done, I spent 4 hours on the rear half in a ke10.

I have Hurricane 4-1 brand new I sell for $230 Will fit from ke20 to ke70

My daily driver HD holden runs a twin system under the diff and i havent had a problem, the car sits about 105mm off the ground. i reckon do what fits

Was watching a 1980 movie called HUMANOIDS from the deep and about half way through was a bamboo KE26

Yeah pretty much just one hole for the cable to go through. There is an identifiable marking on the firewall where it should go