KEI069

Yeah pretty much just one hole for the cable to go through. There is an identifiable marking on the firewall where it should go

G'day mate all I did was went to wreckers with a drill and drilled out three spot welds that hold like a little cup that holds the clutch cable where it's welded onto the firewall. All manual ke's share the same cup thing. Then you can just screw it onto your car. Hope this helps Cheers Justin Oh and you don't need a whole pedal box just the clutch pedal itself and a longer bolt

Just did a centre road wreckers run. Lots of good early ke gear. KE 20 late model most parts still there good gril KE 26 lh taillight ok KE 30/55 still some good bits and a KE 35 coupe little ratted Happy shopping

Man i can't believe its been 1 year since my last update and this thing is still not running. there has been a little progress and i will get a few photos up soon. The little things always seem to take the longest time, like custom accelerator cables, fuel lines, brackets and what not, and trying to find parts like thermostat lower housings and heater taps Atleast I'm making progress and hope to have it running in the next couple of months Hope everyone has a good New Years Cheers Justin

Looks like your axle bearing has failed or the bearing retainer/ collett has slid down the axle allowing more end float

I actually like the idea of both but I think it depends greatly on what you are starting off with, I would never cut up a clean and tidy original car. If you have a rough base for the project then hey may as well make it fast

Extractors look very much like a set of hurricane,s. They fit up pretty well. Nice car by the way, great job on making a 70 look so good

The block goes on top of the leaf pack inside the crossmember which flattens the leaf, hence lowering the front end

A 5k is going to be the easiest and cheapest upgrade coupled to a 5 speed and youll be cruising, or my choice would be 2tg for period correctness, but getting hard to find and a bit pricey.

Hey Guys, According to my service and lube guide book, the 5k-c in a KM36 Liteace made 49kw @ 4800rpm and 115Nm @ 3200rpm hope this helps you out mate

Not quite, early style grill has different lower mounting brackets and headlight surrounds to ke10b style grill and will bolt straight up

Since when have Lowering blocks been illegal. Just do it reckon it should look good. There is a little Suzuki van getting around easter melb. suburbs done a similar way and looks cool as

how will dwell only affect two cylinders. if you have already tried new plugs, leads, coil and another dizzy and the problem is still on the same two cylinders, it will more than likely be a problem with those two cylinders. Hope you get it sorted mate

Maybe check also a blown head gasket between 2 & 3 between the cylinders only, not water jackets. have you put the standard carb back on just to eliminate The twin sidies ?

Check out a v6 commodore engine, maybe the p/s pulley. Just a thought.

I have used quite a few brands over the years And my eighteen year old kinchrome stuff. is still Going strong. I like a lot of snap on gear but it is A bit pricey for my work. I have been using a bit of Force gear (ratchet spanners mainly) and find Them to be very nice, great feel and operation. Some of the repco stuff is also quite good and their Warranty is reasonably good aswell. Good luck buying your tools

Sounds like you have eliminated the ignition system So I would be inclined to check you haven't lost a couple of cam lobes.Sounds like a very similar problem i had with a 5K 5k a while ago.

That's just cool Best you get started now

The bloke that built that wagon is a champ, and owned more corollas than anyone, most of which have had engine conversions. Holden V6 in a few and the engine in that wagon is a 308 with a trimatic. It is an awesome piece of work and it did fit very well from memory no firewall mods Built to drift and have some fun Watch for his next effort, VG30det

With some usual intake cam and exhaust mods and a little extra comp I would expect to see somewhere around 90hp at the treads

The KE20 pictured above actually has a 289ci ford windsor engine it, a real nice fit and completely engineered. a few years ago went for a few laps around sandown and it handled and stopped quite impressively. A KE30 is quite a bit larger in the engine bay area and a small block chev will fit, it will require a new trans tunnel and minor firewall mods Have fun, just go for it

Gday Cameron, Man the manifolds and carbs you have look awesome. I don't know much about these carbs to be honest, i got this 5K running and it has a stupid cam in it, (3000-7500rpm) had to take a mil off the head surface so the hydraulic lifters were still useable. i put a standard 4K carb on it and it went awesome then the solex carbs came up for sale complete so i have just bolted them on. No idea on what jets or anything, havent even tuned them but this thing revs and pulls hard and the induction noise is phenomenal. Good luck with your set up Cheers Justin

Quick pic of solex carbs hope this helps

Hey Cameron, i just fitted a pair of these solex carbs to my Ke10 this past week. its on a 5k also. i have used a Redline manifold which is approx. 72mm from the head to the carb mounting face. I have then got a ram tube on the end of the carbs which measure about 43mm and i am left with 2mm of clearance to the inner strut tower on the third from front intake tube. these measurements are taken on the car so not exact, but close Its a tight fit, i will try to get a photo up a little later Cheers Justin

I'm watching this thread with grear interest, it is coming along very nicely. great work. wandering what accelerator cable you will be using? Shame about the radiator not working out, but there just isnt much room in those bays eh! keep up the awesome work man. Cheers Justin