bruce

Wonder what caused the head gasket to fail. Did it overheat at some stage, or just corrosion around that back water jacket?

More like 2000 pesos :P:

Looks like there's not much allowance in widening the bore. 120kw is pretty impressive. What lift and duration is the camshaft?

Could look into boring out the block towards 2000cc capacity. Maybe 85mm flat top pistons? Options could be 85mm L18 Datsun pistons, or if the walls are too thin maybe 83mm L24 pistons: http://forums.nicoclub.com/datsun-nissan-engine-specs-look-here-for-info-on-your-engine-t469974.html 7AFE conrods: http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrods/toyota/7afe-conrods/toyota-7a-fe-conrods Modifications for piston wrist pin diameter, and piston pin height. With the flat top pistons go with a 3K or 4K head. Would need custom extractors. The genie or pacemaker extractors are more designed for the smaller capacity 3k/4k engines.

Feral4k used valves from a Fiat and Alpha: http://www.rollaclub..._75#entry667499 I've had a look at using 3T valves into a 4K head: 3T inlet has 41mm diameter, and the exhaust is the same as the 4K inlet at 36 mm. 3T valves have 8mm stem, but are longer: So could use 4K inlet and turn it down to 33 mm to use for the exhaust. Then use the 3T inlet valve turned down to 40mm, shortened to a length of 100mm, and cut a groove for the collet. Looks like 40mm inlet and 33mm exhaust is the biggest that can fit without offsetting the valve guides. Would need to shape out the chamber and run a larger lift camshaft to get around shrouding issues. Not sure if the K head can be ported to make use of these sizes. In the TRD manual stage iii, 3d (Fig. 4) it looks like the inlet can be opened to 33mm diameter and 35.5mm at the valve throat. TRD used 38mm inlet, 33mm exhaust: http://www.rollaclub...embly_standard. Say for example with 40mm inlet valves, the valve seat width can be 2mm, giving a inner valve throat diameter of 36mm. This diameter would probably breach the coolant galleries if it was ported all the way though, so could possibly go rounded square shape ports to achieve the same cross-sectional area, something like a Chev cylinder head. Something to think about if it was for a 7K.

What did you use to create the port moulds? Something like silicone RTV? Tricky to pull out?

Did you install a reground camshaft Banjo, or you just put back the stock one?

Looks like Whiteline have got rubber bushes: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W71186 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W71674

39mm chokes sounds a bit big? With Weber DCOE40 or Dellorto DHLA40 32 mm chokes might be more suitable for 1500cc. Could get some ideas here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62085-5k-reving-problem/

I've replaced the coil with a Bosch SU12R from my other car, it's about a couple of years old. Yeah I might put back the vacuum advance, and try out the other ballast resistor to get lower voltage readings.

I decided to pull a spark plug out and check the spark, and it was yellow and weak. They seemed to be a bit dirty but not real bad, bit black around the rim. Spark plug 1: Spark plug 3: Spark plug 3 seemed the worst. I cleaned them up with sandpaper and hit them with a wire brush and carb cleaner. Also noticed the spark plug leads weren't fully pushed into the distributor cap. Since they are new the terminals need adjusting so they can be pushed all the way in. Spark was brighter but still yellow. Went for a test run around the block and down the road and it was pretty good. Could hold the accelerator flat to the floor and it wouldn't miss. But the next day the missing came back again, and was worst, even at light throttle or feathering the accelerator. Tried another condensor that was 25 micro F instead of 22 micro F, but no real change to the spark. Cleaned up the earth leads: Decided to get some new NGK BP5EY, since the fouling is like fused in, and it's hard to get into all the places to clean them up. Probably stuffed them up with the sanding. Tried a new spark plug for a spark test and it was bright blue. Put them in and no more missing. In the rain today had the head lights, wipers, and demister on, flat to the floor in 4th up a hill, no missing.

They are the later Bosch alternators with the internal regulators. Yeah it could be possible both are faulty. Thinking of doing the commodore alternator upgrade.

Yeah they sound alright. I had a chambered design muffler with hotdog on my other car and it sounded ballsy. I wanted a chambered design again but they put the megaflow muffler on (straight through design with a bend). The note is not as deep. Still sounds alright echoing in an undercover carpark.

I changed to another ballast resistor that was a couple of years old and the missing actually got worse. So I put the original one back in and took it for a test run and the missing was gone. Both resistors measured to be 2 ohms. So I cleaned up the connections at the ignition coil with sand paper and WD40 and tighted them up. I could hold the accelerator flat to the floor from a standing start and the engine not miss, also up hills as well. Only a hint of a miss up a hill when the rear demister or head lights were on. However I just got the exhaust done: 2" piping, wildcat extractors, redback sports muffler as the mid, then megaflow muffler as the final, and the missing has come back. Its worse with the head lights and windscreen wipers on. There wasn't really any power increase, actually lost power or low end torque. Like there is a flat spot when first accelerating. When I had the exhuast done with a stock 5K I noticed a difference in power, but with a stock 4K its not really beneficial. Measured the voltage at the iginition coil when idling: 11V at positive and 8.5V at negative. Got 13.6V before the ballast resistor.

Driven the car for a while now and can't see any leaks, so looks like the timing chain install was successful. Was frustrating at first, but seems to be OK once you know how. Probably alright to do a camshaft swap with the engine still in the car. But would be better off to take out the engine to make it easier to get at things.

It has a white ballast resistor in line before the positive side of the ignition coil. Hasn't been replaced, looks original. I measured the resistance at ~5.5 ohms (varies a bit). I'll by pass it and see if it makes a difference.

It starts alright when cold, just need a bit of choke until it warms up a bit. But the last couple of mornings I go to turn it over and nothing happens. Can hear the click under the dash with the relay and I think the solenoid on the starter motor. I just keep on turning the key till it turns over. Starts straight away throughout the day. Did happen a couple of months ago and I thought the battery was getting slugish, so that's why I replaced it. But looks like the problem is still there. Might need to checkout the starter motor.

Got a 4K that's missing under load, like going up hills, or hard acceleration. Been trying to get rid of the problem. I think it's mainly electrical, with a weak spark. When I first put the engine in to replace a 3K it was quite bad so I put a new set of top gun ignition leads (standard replacement) in and it made a far bit of difference, but the problem was still present. Went ahead and replaced other ignition parts: spark plugs points rotor button distributor cap condenser That made a bit of an improvement, but problem still persisted. I did noticed a small manifold leak so I replace the gasket. That had different symptoms, and didn't really contribute to the missing under load. The two earth leads to the engine look good. Lately I replaced the battery and the ignition coil. The newer Bosch ignition coil made a good improvement. Though, each time I make an improvement I drive the car a bit harder to the point where the missing is still there. The other day I had a look at the carby and sprayed some carby cleaner down the throat and through the idle adjustment screw. Played around with the ignition timing and left it a 10 degrees, with the idle at 800 rpm. I decided to block and remove the vacuum advance line from the carby to the distributor and that gave a smoother idle and better throttle response. Probably a leak somewhere. Blocked off the other pollution lines resulting in more snappier throttle response. Can accelerate more harder now when driving. However fuel economy has dropped a bit (8 L/100Km to 9L/100Km). So I'm running out of ideas. Other things: its got a reconditioned cylinder head, and I've recently replaced the timing chain. There's a few small holes in the mid muffler. The missing under load is quite bad when I put the rear demister on, which drains a fair bit of power with the charge light coming on. The charge light came on with the demister with the 3K as well. With the 4K I tried a different alternator but the charge light still comes on. Checking the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running with nothing turned on gives 13.5 V, and with heater fan, lights and demister the voltage comes down to around 12.5 or 13.0 V. Not sure if the missing under load is caused by a weak alternator. Or old wiring somewhere in the ignition and the demister makes it worst.

Where did you get that photo from? Looks left-hand drive. They are original. I think those lights only came out in Japan and other Asian countries, maybe Hawaii and Puerto Rico as well? Not the TE37 Levin (1975-1976), but after that. The ones with the later style dash.

It's good having a collection of old Corollas. You can take one off the road to work on, while having another for a daily driver. There's always setbacks, can be months, sometimes years :). Can be hard to decide what engine to go with, so having a few Corollas gives you options and trying out different setups. Though the money might become an issue.

rear spoiler: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/66758-for-sale-fiberglass-rear-spoiler-ke35te37-corolla/ TE37 flares: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57098-fs-reproduction-fiberglass-te37-sr5-fender-flare/ There's universal front spoilers that would fit: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/brighton/auto-body-parts/fibreglass-front-spoiler-suit-toyota-corolla-ke30-ke35-ke55/1053417227 Side skirts might have to be custom twin carb manifolds are more common on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/engines/auction-768828492.htm

I had a 2" system, with sports muffler and hotdog resonator, which was droney/loud at 100Km. Replaced the resonator under the passenger side with another muffler and it quietened it down a fair bit, so two mufflers in total. Still kind of had a drone sound present while cruising above 4000rpm with 4 speed. So would recommend to get a 5 speed gearbox and maybe a lower ratio diff to get the revs down, would make highway cruising quieter. Maybe lay some sound deadener under the carpet and boot area.

I managed to get the timing cover on. I loosened the sump nuts. Did about 5 rows back, since I couldn't see the sump pull down off the front of the engine block. I tried anyway and the cover went on fairly easy. Probably could of got away with loosening just a few nuts. The front of the sump doesn't need to move down much, probably a few mm. Didn't need to remove the water drain. Haven't tested it yet. Just need to put back the fan and radiator hose etc. Hopefully there aren't any oil leaks.

Yeah its been pretty frustrating. Doing it while the engine is in the car. Was thinking of removing the water drain tube but a bit afraid the threads in the block could stuff up with it being pretty old. But if that's what it takes I'll have to take it out. I'll try taking a few sump bolts out to pull it down a bit.

Having a bit of trouble putting back the front timing cover on a 4K with the sump on. Someone has previously replace the bottom timing cover studs with bolts, so the timing cover can be removed with the sump still on. Took a bit of effort taking it off, pulling it at different angles etc. but it came out OK. Replaced the timing chain, dampener, and tensioner, since a pin popped out of the chain and made it loose, which weared grooves on the inside of the timing cover. Thought I can just put the timing cover on but it has been a bit of a hassel. Initially the sump gasket below the crankshaft pulley kept pushing in with the lip of the timing cover, but I held the edge of the rubber gasket with pointy plyers and maneuvered the timing cover in. The main problem is trying to fit the timing cover to the engine block to bolt it on. I can't seem to get both dowels through the timing cover, I can get the drivers side but not the passenger side. It looks like the water pump is causing a bit of restriction, and also the coolant drain plug thing in the front of the engine block, together with the rubber sump gasket needing to be compressed. Tried different combinations of putting in the bottom timing cover bolts to pull it down but no success. Looks like I have to drop the sump or take the water pump off. Does anyone know any tricks to put the timing cover with the sump still on?