bruce

That looks like a good jig setup. That's what I was looking for. Looks like it could take a bit of time to make. What's the function of the two inner perches? For piece of mind I reckon I'll get someone else to do the welding. But if I could do the preparation work and get a jig made, I can take it to someone and get it welded.

Going to put a TA22 diff into my KE30. Need to take the coil spring mounts and linkage brackets off the TA22 diff, cut off the KE30 leaf mounts, and then weld them onto the TA22 diff. Anyone got any advice on how to go about it? One of the main issues is welding the leaf mounts in the correct location, so they are evenly spaced apart, and also at the right angle so the tail shaft is in correct alignment. Anyone got any ideas of a jig. Only done a little bit of welding, but I reckon I could achieve good clean welds with a bit of practice and finding the right amperage. I can get an arc welder, but not a mig welder. I'm thinking the arc welder could burn through the diff housing. Also the heat could cause the diff housing to warp?

So the light dimming adjuster will become useful then?

Here's something on wheel adapters: http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/15445-the-dangers-of-wheel-adaptors/

You can try and use the throttle lever off an Aisan carburetor. This is how I setup the accelerator cable for the Weber on my 3TC: The lever was from a T18 Aisan carburetor, but you could use one from a K engine.

Another option could be to replace the sock filters on the Webers with something like K&N filters. They might have a connection so you can run a hose to the outlet where you have your little filter on the rocker cover. How did you get defected? Random inspection from a transport official or pulled over by a cop?

Going to replace my clutch, so while I'm at it I was thinking of taking the flywheel off and resurface and balance it. Then I might as well get it lightened, but by how much? From here http://www.1stgencel...php?f=11&t=9444 stock 2T flywheel weights are: 2T-B 12.5 Kg 2TG 9.0 Kg There's the Aluminum flywheels from Fidanza and Spec in the USA: Fidanza 4.3 Kg (9.5 lb) Spec 4.3 Kg (9.5 lb), another source said 14.0 lb Then the high end flywheels by Kameari and Toda: Kameari 4.4 Kg (Street) 3.7 Kg (Race) Toda 3.5 Kg It's for a road car, so probably don't need to go as light as a Fidanza. Though the 3TC has plenty of torque and I can cruise around in 5th gear at 60 Km/hr easily. Maybe machine a stock flywheel to a weight in the middle somewhere, which doesn't compromise the structure. Has anybody had an aluminum flywheel in their 3TC/2TG, or a lighten stock one? Worthwhile investment?

Yeah they seem to be a fairly sought after part. Took me a while to get a KE55 K50 in good condition at a fair price. Even 7 or 8 years ago they were not very common at wrecking yards. If they did, they were asking $400-$500. Other people have no trouble finding one. Probably was easier for me to get a K-T bellhousing from over the Tasman or from Asia. KE70 K50s are more common, so the rear extension housing along with the shifter from a KE55 K50 is sort after. Then the gearbox can be installed in a KE2X and KE3X without cutting, keeping originality. If the gearbox stuffs up, rather than rebuilding, the extension housing can be installed on a KE70 K50 gearbox, which is easier to find. I've search for a KE55 K50 shifter twice. The first time, I got my hands on a KE70 K50 for $50, and also got a KE55 extension housing without the shifter. Gave up looking for the shifter. The second time, I got a KE55 K50 that had the shifter cut; probably to fit a gear knob, but I was able to transfer the top part of the shifter from a K40. The ball/base part of the shifter is the important part, since other shifters won't fit properly. I think that because the KE55 K50s are less common, there are not many in good condition, and they get tampered with. Just another annoying thing, TA22 Celica 5 speed knobs are difficult to find. I've got 3 TA22 T50s all without the gear knob. They usually sell for $100 or higher.

Just a follow up on the adapter. I ended up drilling and tapping an M12 bolt. Used an old head bolt from a 3TC. Couldn't find a softer grade bolt at the time. Bunnings only had high tensile grade bolts in the same diameter and thread. At first when I drilled the pilot hole the drill got blunt pretty quick. So I started off with a 3mm drill at low speed and worked my way up with 1mm increments until 7mm, with plenty of WD40. Then tapped an M8 thread. Tapping high tensile was hard, but doing a little at time with plenty of lubrication it was possible.

Runs alot better now? AccuSpark looks like the way to go. The Pertronix equivalent seems overpriced, and it's cheaper than the Crane setup. AccuSpark looks to have a nice programmable ignition system. Allows for ignition curves to be set, rev limiter, and also adjust the dwell throughout the rpm range from a laptop. So would be handy if the engine had performance modifications, such as a larger duration camshaft. http://www.accuspark.co.uk/Blackbox.htm

How did you go with the Crane conversion kit? Is there an optical sensor for the trigger that's installed in the distributor, replacing the points?

wow, costly. Though good that old corollas are becoming more valued. These Te27 badges are pretty pricey: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1973-1974-Toyota-Corolla-Levin-TE27-1600-DOCH-GT-2T-G-2T-GR-2T-GU-/300936039899?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46112f8ddb

I measured the cylinder head chamber volume of a 2T and 3T head and they were pretty similar, so there won't be any change in compression ratio with swapping heads. I measured 63cc with my TA22 2TC head, shaven 1mm. There could be variations in head chamber volume between different 2T/3T/13T engines; have to check. There are differences in the 2T and 3T piston dome volume, which brings the static compression ratio for the 2T/3T engine to a similar ballpark figure.

That looks pretty good. Did you use TE27 flares, and use some kind of filler to blend them in?

The TE37 SR5 in the USA came with flares, so if you can get a set of them it should fit perfect on a KE30: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-te37-toyota-corolla-sport-coupe-fender-flares-te31-sr5-te38-ke36-2tg-te27-/271202901499?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f24f3ddfb&vxp=mtr There was a rollaclub member from Malaysia selling fibreglass copies of TE37 flares. Someone might of done copies of TE27 flares in Australia. Saw on ebay once before.

What's the advantage of the otomoto kit over the T3 kit? Worth the $80 extra? I can see there are a few more parts that comes with the otomoto kit. So the threaded sleave part in the T3 kit is aluminum, so it's not easily welded to the steel strut housing. It just slips over the strut and rests on a welded perch, is this what you meant? http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/4116534/hsd-48mm-sleeve-kit.html https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ke30/ground-control-front-coilover-kit-ke30-corolla Discussion on the T3 kit: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/21251-T3-Weld-on-Coilover-Kit-Thoughts

Check out these: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57098-fs-reproduction-fiberglass-te37-sr5-fender-flare/ fibreglass copies of TE37 flares, perfect fit for TE3X

G'day Pete, I didn't end up finding a rocker lock. Decided to move on and torque down the head. Looks like the rockers are locked in with the head bolts, unless you know of any tricks to slide the rocker shafts out without removing the head?

That's where I got my set of rocker arm collar locks, but one of them broke when I was fitting it on. It was tighter than the others and I forced it a little and it broke. Bit annoying, since I just want to bolt the head on and get the engine going (rockers bolt down with the head). I sent a couple of emails to euroexport to purchase another one but they were ignored. I reckon since it's a small time sale he can't be bothered posting one. Here's my experience with the three main 3TC parts dealers in the USA: I've order online with euroexport before for an adjustable timing gear and chromoly pushrods and the transaction went smoothly. The communication is poor though and it's hard to get a straight answer, with a two word response. Accepts paypal, which makes the payment easy. Postage can be with USPS priority mail international, which seems to be one of the cheapest shipping methods from the USA to Australia. BRD racing has poor communication as well with two word answers and unable to answer queries properly. Email based orders. Doesn't take paypal. Only accepts moneygram or western union as payment for overseas buyers, so it's a bit risky. Paradiseracing has actually got good communication. Able to make recommendations based on your setup, e.g camshaft and induction etc. Feels like your communicating with someone whose had experience with 3TC engines. Email based orders for overseas buyers, since their online ordering is dated. Doesn't accept paypal, and only accepts credit card for overseas buyers, so I wasn't keen on giving my credit card details. Also shipping is through Fedex, which puts the total cost up a bit (thinks USPS is a bit slow when claiming for lost postage). so I'm on the lookout for other alternatives for future purchases.

G'day Pete, have you bought anything from www.theracingstore.com lately? Can't see any 3TC parts when browsing through their website and the Engine Parts category is emtpy. Tried emailing them but no response. I'm after a rocker arm collar lock (intake side).

Saw a black KE35 today with TE37 tail lights, had L-plates up, heading towards Rokeby.

I saw a KE20 sitting in a yard across from the tip shop in New Norfolk a couple of months ago. Might be able to get some parts off it.

G'day Banjo, did you get a camber measurement when everything was stock in the KE30? Not sure if it's zero or slightly positive: http://www.reocities...883/e3-sus.html With the KE30/KE55 struts having KPI measuring to be 9 deg. and the RA65 struts 8.4 deg., along with the same length LCAs, the resulting camber is quite close, or the RA65 struts would give slightly more camber, since it has 0.6 deg. less KPI. However due to the offset of the mounting hole for the lower ball joint in the steering arms between KE30/KE55 and RA65, the camber can be affected. I wonder what would be a nicer way: weld and redrill the mounting holes in the steering arms, or make new ones from scatch? Something like: https://technotoytun...les-ra64-celica Had any thoughts on the effect on bump steer with the RA65 struts and modifications to the steering arms?: http://www.rollaclub...3d-explanation/ http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/40227-ae86-xe7x-ra40-60-struts-bump-steer-3d-explanation.html

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kingston/cars-vans-utes/1972-toyota-corolla-coupe-te27-ke20-ke25-ta22-2tg/1009643556#