bruce

Did you get a measurement for the king pin angle for the RA65 strut? Like here: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/50999-toyota-strut-king-pin-angle-database.html I roughly compared an RA60 strut with a KE30 strut by eye and the angle between the strut housing and hub mounting face looks a bit larger, so would give positive camber. I guess it could be corrected with adjustable camber tops. Would like to know how far in the struts need to come in at the top. I'm going to eventually put in RA60 struts into my KE30, so I'm interested in seeing how you go.

I'm not sure if the KE3X that came into Australia had the option as a deluxe, or it's not very common. Though I did see an early KE35 with honey comb grill with a deluxe badge on the passenger side front guard once. Usually there is the 'corolla' badge there. With the later KE30/KE35 there is the 'CS' badge, that could be in the same position as the deluxe badge. Usually the deluxe was an option in Japan or USA; could check out the TE31/TE37. There is also the KE35 SR that has the 'SR' badge on the front guard, which is more common in New Zealand and some Asian countries.

I've replaced my fuel pump block gasket twice and it still leaks. Gave the block a good sand and used Permatex along with the paper gasket. You could also get a new black plastic insulator thing if it's old and hard.

Yeah the wreckers at Brighton are a rip off. Use to have reasonable prices until it changed ownership a few years ago. I think the one at Kingston is OK.

I had a cheap ($20-$30) round chrome filter for a 32/36 Weber from auto1 and the base plate cracked as well from vibration. K&N filters are meant to good: http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products_details.asp?PartNo=56-1040&CategoryID=16&PartsectionID=70 http://www.dellorto.co.uk/merchandise/products_details.asp?PartNo=56-9075&CategoryID=16&PartsectionID=70

I had a similar problem with my 3TC. The engine cutout when the revs dropped down to idle. Mainly after the engine had warmed up and on deceleration. Changed the fuel cutoff solenoid with another one, and freshen up the distributor with new points, cap, condenser, rotor button etc. New spark plugs. Had bright spark but it still cutout. Thought the carby was flooding so I changed it with a 32/36 Weber and it still cutout, Then I had a look at the alternator belt and it was loose. So it would run OK for a while, but when the engine warmed up the belt stretched, so there wasn't enough tension to run the alternator, and the engine would cutout at low revs. Bursons gave me the wrong belt since I couldn't tension it anymore on the bracket.

I've ended up using a TA22 brake booster. Didn't really want to start banging the firewall and strut tower of a good car to fit a KE70 brake booster. The TA22 brake booster is bigger than an early KE30 one, and slightly bigger than the later KE30/KE55 one. I think the TA22 brake booster type was used in the TE3X corollas in Japan with the 2TC engine. I did fit a KE70/AE71 master brake cylinder with the TA22 brake booster, and the brakes are too touchy now. Only a slight push on the brake pedal brings on the brakes really hard. Probably skid in the wet. The KE70 master cylinder has a 13/16" bore while the KE30 one has 3/4", so I think the KE70 master cylinder is moving too much brake fluid to the small brake calipers. Going to have to go back to the 3/4" bore, or go for bigger brake calipers with a strut upgrade.

Looks like the camteh 609 is better suited to the K engine than the Kinetic cam. The Kinetic has a duration of 208 @0.05" lift, while the camtech 609 is 231/335, so the camtech would rev more, together with the larger lift. The kinetic seems like an odd combination with the advertised duration at 289.4

Could depend on the diff ratio 4.1:1 or 4.3:1 This online calculator can workout the speedo drive gear: http://akb.norbie.net/Public/Gearing.aspx

What K50 do you have, KE55 or KE70? There might be a difference in speedo drives. I thought last time I checked the KE55 K50 I have, the drive gear was 6x20 or 6x22, though not 100% sure. Got a 4:1 ratio diff, stock tyres, and checked the speed with a gps and it's pretty accurate up to 100Km/hr. You will have to get the right speedo drive 5x or 6x, otherwise the teeth on the plastic gear will get chewed off. Was the 5x19 speedo drive gear the original one from your gearbox? What's the condition of the teeth? You could get drive gears from other gearboxes K40/T50 at the wreckers etc. You can still get them new at a Toyota parts store. Though they don't want to look up 1970s cars on their catalog so you have to supply them a part number. http://www.toyodiy.com/

Would be good to start off with the 3tgte block as it comes with additional parts. There is a hole in the side of the block near the engine mount on the passenger side for an oil return. A knock sensor mounted on the block. It has a drive thing that blocks off the distributor hole in the block, since the distributor is driven on the intake cam in the head. The 3tgte head can bolt onto the 3tc block, but would need the 3tgte timing cover, dummy cam and timing components. The pistons have a smaller dome for lower compression. If your putting a bit of effort into the build you might as well start off with a 2tg head since they flow better. There's some flow figures on toymods. The 3tgte head has the inlet ports close together as a pair, making the flow path more curved towards the valves.

OK, I reckon I'll go with the adjustable camber plates. I'm planning on xt130 coilover struts further down the track.

The T50 and K50 KE55 shifters are different. There is a comparison photo in this thread: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57374-dismantling-a-k40t50-shifter/ I had the same problem as you. Tried K40 shifters from KE30, KE55, and KE70. I reckon you will have to get another K50.

Is it possible to use adjustable camber tops with a stock KE30 strut? I read in a couple of threads that there is no room for adjustment in the strut tower with the wider spring/hat in a KE30, but some people are able to. However, I need to replace my old strut top rubber mounts, since they are cracking and causing vibration. I was thinking, instead of buying $140 for a pair of rubber mounts from Pedders, get adjustable camber tops, something like T3 for $190 + postage. Would there be any fitment issues? Don't really need to adjust the camber at the moment, until I get coilovers.

An advantage could be that the 3T crank is already in there, instead of swapping it over to the 2T block. I'm not sure if the 2TG block is lighter, I think they are almost the same. Both have the same 85mm bore, just the 3T has the longer stroke. The 2TG head bolts straight onto the 3TC block. If using the stock 3TC pistons might need to cut the valve reliefs more to stop the valves hitting the pistons. Other things required is to swap over the timing gear, e.g. dummy cam, timing cover, chain etc., so would be easier to have a complete 2TG to source parts from.

The 3TC is a good choice if you want the old school looks and character. I've got a stock 3TC in my KE30, with 32/36 weber, extractors and 2" exhaust, and it goes well. Good torque for driving around town, it gets up and moves pretty easily compared to a 4K/5K. With the 1.8L capacity it suits well to the weight of a KE3X. In a KE25 I could imagine it would go even better. Got the benefit of the 5 speed T50 gearbox, which is stronger and more easily found than a KE55 K50. The capacity can be increased to 2L with 89mm pistons. Could increase it more with a 4Y crank. 3TC motors are not really that common in Australia. Only came out in T18 corollas, and maybe as an import replacement engine (13T) for the TA22. Second hand parts are starting to get a bit hard to find at wrecking yards, so have to be source online or privately. Can still get usual parts like gaskets/seals/water pump etc. at Bursons or Repco. For performance parts you can get them from the USA, such as Euro Export: http://www.euroexportinc.com/ Parts such as an adjustable timing gear, roller rockers etc. The head is of a hemi design, so performance modification principals could be taken from US hemi or nascar hemi engines. There is a limitation to the amount the 2T/3T head can flow. Generally 200 cfm @ 28" of H2O is achievable with porting work. The restriction is the pushrod holes on either side of the inlet port, not allowing it to be taken out wider. Also, there are holes underneath the floor of the port; a coolant hole and empty casting space. It would be better off to use a 2TG head, which could flow 230+ cfm with porting work and bigger valves. If you want to keep the 2T/3T head for the novelty and make it flow more, the trick is to weld the holes underneath the inlet port to allow for a larger port.

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b138390751

How is the steering setup with the ST141 Corona struts? Did you have any issues with camber etc.?

Had a look at putting a AE71 brake booster into a KE35. The four mounting bolts to the firewall is compatible, but a bit of panel beating is required behind the strut tower underneath the brake booster, the lip on the firewall, and maybe the protrusion for the clutch cable mount. I'm planning on having a clutch master cylinder, but it looks like the AE71/KE70 booster will be in the way. Has anybody gone though with putting one into a KE30/KE35? I had a look through old forums and there was something on fitting a AE71 brake booster to a KE30 without any modifications: From old toymods site (halfway down post): http://forums.toymod...=120#msg_566460 Pictures from old toymods site: The larger brake booster in the photo doesn't look like it is from a KE70/AE71. It looks to fit OK with enough room for the clutch master cylinder. Does anybody know what it could be from? Or a booster that is of similar size and same bolt arrangement for the firewall and master brake cylinder?

I think there is a place up at Launceston that can dyno tune carbs. I had a bit of a look around Hobart but there isn't really anything, it's all EFI. There was Autocraft in Collins street that can jet carbs (e.g. 32/36 Weber), but they have no dyno, so the tune is just free reving.

Looks like the compressed head gasket thickness is 1.3mm, probably a permaseal one? Then the effective dome volume: dome volume - piston reliefs = 30-8 = 22cc Head has been shaved 30 thou (0.762mm). Looks like they've taken the piston ring height into account in the compression calculation.

I've used e-go a few times for shipping engines and gearboxes. Depot-to-depot delivery since it's cheaper. Haven't had any major issues with them, just sometimes it can take a while or it's sitting at the depot and they don't call you. The online tracking does not update or say it has arrived. No customer service, just an email contact on the website, so if something gets lost it's hard to contact them. There is optional insurance. E-go is part of hunter express, but if you call them up they say they don't deal with e-go freight. They outsource their service, e.g. in Tassie it's Road Runners freight that does the delivery. So if something happens, the point where the freight was dropped off and delivered can be used as a contact. If sending through them, need to make sure the freight is secure and have the consignment note number and your contact details written on, just in case the consignment note (barcode) printout comes off. Should be OK. I would only use them for heavy auto parts, fragile things I would use another courier.

OK, even shaved down close to the erg holes. Mine was shaved 1mm and it still measured 63cc as well. Measured it a few times. Also measured an unshaven head as well and it was the same. That was without the clear plastic sheet though, so thought I couldn't measure the difference. Maybe because the chamber is a spherical shape it needs alot shaved off to notice the reduction in volume. So perhaps the head gasket, piston dome and oversized pistons would be more effective in increasing the compression ratio. Using this calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html with these values: Bore: 85mm Stroke: 78mm gasket thickness:1.5mm dome: 20.6cc (from Wiseco catalog) gives a compression of 9.69 with 1mm gives a compression of 10.2 with a 30 thou gasket (0.762mm) gives a compression of 10.47 What piston dome volume did you use in the calculations? That needs to be known accurately. Could imprint the piston dome on some clay or plasticine and measure the volume, similar to the cylinder head chamber volume measurement.

Would need to know the head volume to work it out. Stock is around 63cc. Did your machinist measure it? You could measure it with a clear sheet of plastic (like a CD cover with a hole in it) to cover over the chamber, and a pipette or syringe to introduce metho or turps etc., like here: http://www.rollaclub...attach_id=87204 Then whatever milliliters fits into the chamber gives the cubic centimeters. There is a program that takes the piston ring height into account, but you could do a quick calculation with a pen and paper and it should be fine. Or here are some online calculators http://www.csgnetwor...m/compcalc.html http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

Yeah, the 2tc head is a nicer starting base for an NA engine. Normally people block up the ERG holes. With the bump in the exhaust ports, I think they could be ground down with a die grinder and deburr bit. I think people leave them in there and the setup has been successful (check out 3tcgarage, turbo applications). Porting the intake port is more important. How much did you get shaved off the head? What did the chamber volume (cc) turn out to be? Going by the Engine Analyzer Pro program your dynamic compression ratio works out to be 6.71 with the Crow cam and static compression ratio of 10. Ideally the dynamic compression ratio should be between 7 to 9. Looks like you would need a minimum of 10.5 static compression. Could try a thinner head gasket: http://www.euroexpor...89mm-c4176.html Or you could put over sized pistons. Can get 1mm+ oversize. Going larger is only available in forged I think, like Wiseco or Arias. They've got more dome for compression. Expensive though.